Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Keyless Entry Fail And Tire Pressure Sensor Fault
Mar 12, 2014
Over the weekend my 2008 Escape Hybrid manifest 2 problems the same day.
1. The remote keyless entry button stopped working (thought it was dead battery in key)
2. Got a error message 'Tire Pressure Sensor Fault'
So after suffering with having to actually unlock my car with a key (heehee/see sarcastic grin) and getting irritated by the error message. I asked the internet about my symptoms. Got the standard answers of "bad tire pressure sensor/reprogram" and change the battery in the key. But ONE and only one person (namely Enviroguy ) said what I thought was going on - that these two problems were related. (afterall it is 2 wireless devices in the car.)
Changing the key fob battery had no effect & Both keys were unresponsive. Seeing what Enviroguy said about certain chargers or wireless devices can cause interference in the tire sensor and keyless systems. .... Then I remember that I had been using a new no-name charger for my cell phone when this problem started.
I unplugged that charger.....(it was a cheap generic power point to USB adapter). The Keyless system is working... ! The tire pressure error has vanished.... !
I did not go to the car appointment.... Now let's hope this was in fact the problem! May my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid "Be Healed!"
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The facts: 2009 4x4 V6 Escape with Valve stem mounted TPMS
I am getting a tire pressure sensor malfunction fault. The warning light is on and the error message is displayed on the little screen in the gauge cluster.
What I have tried: First I should say I have replace to defective sensor twice now...
1) I put the escape in tpms train mode by hitting the hazard switch off/on about 6 times.
2) I used the train tool to train all the tires but there is one that is giving me trouble and will not train.
3) I tried deflating the problem tire and inflating it to the specified pressure given on the be pillar of the escape (30 psig)... after inflating it I tried to retain it with no luck.
4) I tried rotating the tires and as I mentioned earlier I have replaces the problem sensor twice. Still can't can't get the problem tire to train.
My thoughts:
1) I don't think this is a module error because I can train the other tires and since I rotated them I know their position is not a factor.
2) its possible that I have got two defective tpms sensors but I think that is unlikely.
3) I have read of another procedure to put the escape in tpms train mode that requires you to turn the ignition on/off, step on the break pedal, tap your head and rub your belly, etc... but I have not tried this method. Is there a difference from this train mode verse hitting the hazard switch on/off about 6 times?
4) Does the train tool only work on previously trained sensors? do I need to register the new TPMS sensor with the TPMS module? I have an OBDII tool that connects to scanXL software on my laptop which included the ford proprietary protocol. I looked for a way to program a tpms sensor (similar to how I did it with my toyota) but couldn't find the option.
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I bought a used 2011 Ford Escape Ltd. which now has 21000 miles on it. The tire pressure sensor indicated a tire was low (it was), and I filled it. Now I intermittently get a message of "Tire pressure sensor fault." The dealer checked it when they changed the oil but it's still coming on, usually when I'm at high speed. It goes off again by itself. Is it important for me to do something?
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Where can I find the key pad code on an 08 escape? I don't have the card in the glove box and I don't want to pay the dealer. It should be printed on the security module box. Where to find it? On my f250 it was under the dash behind radio.
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2009 Ford Explorer, 6cyl, 4L, 33K miles. When its started up, the message "Tire Sensor Fault" appears along with the low tire icon flashing (steady light after ~30 seconds). I can then press the reset button on my dash to clear the message. However, the tire light icon stays lit. I've checked and re-checked the tire pressure in all the tires (spare included) and I'm right at the recommended 32-34 psi on all the tires. No signs of leaks at all. I'm assuming one (or more) of the tire pressure sensors have gone bad and there's no way for a garage (or myself) to identify which one or repair this. Should I assume a trip to the dreaded dealer for this problem ???
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With winter on its way I have installed winter tires and steel rims w/o pressure sensors on my 08 Escape. Is there a way to disable the dash warning light for low tire air pressure?
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I just put on new winter tires and rims on my 2012 Escape and after driving about 6 miles, the low tire pressure light came on. Is there is a procedure to learn the vehicle to the new tires?
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I would get "Tire Pressure Sensor Fault" on my display all the time. The problem occurred mostly on long trips, however, it would occur from time to time on shorter trips. I complained to the dealer about this every time I went in for an oil change. They could never find a problem and wanted me to bring it in when the fault was occurring. Of course these thing never happen when you're by a dealer. To my dealers credit they said they would fix the problem out of warranty if we can find it.
Well I found the problem. As strange as it sounds if I use the cigarette lighter with a power USB adapter to charge my phone or iPad I get the fault. If I use the 12V accessory port on the dash no fault.
Last weekend we drove to Nisswa MN & back (about 1,200 miles). To test the theory I only used the 12V accessory port and no fault occurred. Normally the fault would occur w/in 50 miles then just continue on being annoying the whole rest of the trip. I wish I would have found this out 57,000 miles ago. I use the adapter because the USB port on the dash will only charge my iPhone if the phone is off.
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Randomly, the remote keyless entry system of my 2009 Jeep Wrangler will fail to unlock the doors. When this happens and I then use the key in the door the alarm goes off. As soon as I insert the key in the ignition the alarm will deactivate (as it should). After the first few times I took it to the dealer and a computer was replaced. It kept happening. I took it back to the dealer and now they claim that it is normal! If I use the key to unlock the doors otherwise, no alarm. So, why the periodic failure?
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Got a 'Tire Pressure Sensor Fault' message a few times on the way back from Florida. Tire pressures were all fine. Hate that it doesn't say which monitor has the problem. Anyway... it comes on, but after a few minutes goes back off. Saw it a total of three times over the course of 1,000 miles in two days. Is this the sensor failing and requiring replacement? Or is the system itself starting to fail? Would ESP cover this?
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I have a question for 11-15 Superduty, regarding the factory option remote door unlock and remote start. How far away does your system operate from?
Mine is good for only 50 ft or so MAX most of the time it won't work until about 15 ft from the truck. Been trying to get the dealer to look into it, but got told today that in the owners manual it is only good to 30 ft. Plus I randomly get a tire pressure sensor fault. The sensors are fine, but since the TPMS and door unlock/ remote start share the same antenna I think the 2 are related.
Since my 2011 would work from 100 yards most of the time I call B.S. on the 30ft. I feel that the new truck should work at least as good as my old one. Besides that 30ft is a complete waste, and virtually useless, in my opinion.
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I'm pulling a P0403 EGR circuit fault on a 2004 v6 Escape.
Last night I changed out the EGR solenoid. Cleared the code and drove around for a while, got on the highway and cruised for a few miles and everything seemed fine. Turn the car off and back on and the code showed up again.
My next step will be to check the electrical connection to the solenoid. I don't do a lot of auto repair.
With my multimeter I will check for 12 volts. But from what I understand I can not check ground as the PCM sends ground to the solenoid to activate it. How should I check the electrical connections to the EGR solenoid?
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Check engine light came on and stopped by the local autoparts store to get the error code.
Code: P2270
Bank1 Sensor2 fault
Where is this O2 sensor? I've replaced O2's on other cars I've had and just want to make sure I replace the right one.
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So I have a 2008 escape 4wd.... I am getting a few flat spots on the inside passenger rear tire... So I figured it was the shocks so I unbolted both and cycled them and they both felt the same... There was dampening you can feel the oil going through the valves or whatever... I have felt completely bad shocks before and it was just a smooth motion when cycling the shocks... Can it still feel like there good but there not? The thing has 85k on it and I'm not sure if they have ever been replaced before..
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I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done: Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).
Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. Oil is showing good on the dipstick. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the temp gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on every time it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but its probably been a little over a month. I went from 5w-20 Pennzoil, to 5w-30; wix filter. I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester....
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No key on prime. Inertia switch OK. Zero line pressure when filter removed & changed. Tries to start with ether. Front 3 coils are for sure firing. Swapped the pump relay with fan relay, no change, no prime.
I'm working with an 03 factory hard copy manual & I'm just not seeing a testing procedure, but I'm bat blind sometimes. What I'm missing? The patient had run fine all day, stopped for an hour. Got back in, started badly, shook somewhat, died, no start since.
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2008 Escape V6
Got the oil changed at Walmart and they told us there was oil in the air filter and we should replace the pcv valve. Before we changed it the oil pressure light had started coming on when the car is stopped, either in gear or park. Once the gas is hit it goes off, even at something like 1 mph. Well I changed the pcv valve but the oil pressure light is still doing the same thing. What should be my next step?
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Wife's 04 Escape threw the PO136 code for bank 1 sensor 2 02 sensor. Replaced it and light is off. Not convinced something else isn't causing it.
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2004 XLT 3.0L 141K
I just bought the truck on Monday, the CEL popped up on Tues. It shows code 0136. No other codes. CAT "not ready" on scan tool
A google search proved this is a common topic that for some owners is a repeating and cronic sort of issue. What I've read online is that there is an assortment of things that can cause this O2 sensor to throw this code:
Actual bad O2 sensor
Faulty wiring or connection
Misfire throwing mix off
bad convertor
I don't believe this list covers all the accounts I read but these I have were definitely repeat offenders. My intention is to take to a dealer and let them have first crack at sorting it out. I'm handy enough but I see this as something where an unseen detail can drive ya crazy.
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Well, at a little over 10k I have my first issue. My monitor displayed a Tire Pressure Monitor Fault. All tires are OK. Light won't go out. Guess it just earned a trip to the dealer.
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I realize that is vague. I realize it could be anything from a wheel bearing to a ball joint, tie rod, control arm/control arm bushing, etc.
Are there any very common front-end steering or suspension issues on 2012 escapes? When tires are inflated to 32-34psi, the car tracks straight, gets great mileage --but almost sounds/feels like it's got a CV or wheel bearing issue on the front right. Every time I hit the brakes while backing out of the driveway I can hear a slight bump or pop. When the car is parked (flat, tires straight) there is slight play left-to-right in the steering wheel.
I'm a German car guy. Have never touched this car. (Wife's car) Right tire is wearing bad on inside. Looking for some direction so I can assess. Car has 88k miles. This will be a DIY fix. Don't have any manuals or anything so just looking for a heads up where to start. Also is Haynes the best way to go? Is there a Bentley? Anything online/CD/DVD?
Play in steering wheel makes me think tie rod (fine because easy/cheap) but such excessive wear on the inside right front makes me think wheel bearing. Could it be both? This is AWD. Is this (like a Subaru) a CV joint where the front spindle passes through a strut base that everything attaches to --so there's an inner and outer wheel bearing?
Does anything up front require a press or can it all be done without a press?
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