I recently had my PCM flashed due to the deceleration safety recall. My engine now revs to 2200 rpm when I start it even if the engine is hot. It goes down to 750 rpm after about 30 seconds. My engine before the recall, reved from 1200 to 1400 rpm when starting. My dealer and ford tell me 2200 rpm is normal but I think it is too high.
View 7 Replies2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
Ok, I was driving down the interstate in my 2002 Ford Escape XLT 4X4 and I noticed my rpm's reved to about 5000 from my cruising rpm of 2200 and it was as if it went into neutral. I coasted with engine running fine to the right shoulder and called a tow truck to the nearest dealer. No reverse, D, 2 or 1 only Park that worked.
View 14 RepliesThe O/d light flashed on then off, a few miles later my 06 v6 all wheel drive just coasted to a stop, no noise or anything else. The engine light is on. The trans oil does not smell burnt. The park works but absolutely nothing for the other gears. I drained the tran fluid, 1 gallon came out. Put back in one gallon of new but it is way high on dipstick, the pump seems to not circulate the oil. My car only has 75k on it. What to do next?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Escape. When started cold, it revs up to abt 3000 rpm. Slowly drops back to about 1000 in abt 10 secs. When the engine is hot, it often wants to idle 2500+ rpms and I have to really step on the brakes to slow the vehicle. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. When it is revving high, I can disconnect and reconnect the IAC quickly, and the idle will drop back down for a few minutes, until I step on the accelerator, then start climbing again. It seems to be a lot worse when hot.
I replaced the IAC and TPS about 20k miles ago and thought it was fixed, but the problem has returned. At that time, I could tap on the IAC and it would "get well" for a while. Tapping on this one doesn't seem to change anything. No CEL, engine runs smooth, and I don't notice any air leaks (none that I've found, at least).
My daughter has a 2001 Ford Escape, V6, Automatic, 2WDR, 132,000 miles that is having starting problems. When you turn the key the engine will try to start. You have to push on the gas pedal to keep it running, it will not idle until it gets warmed up. If you try to drive it while cold, it has no power. Reading previous posts I have already replaced the spark plugs, intake gaskets, air filter, EGR, TPS, and fuel filter. Check for crack hoses / vacuum leaks. It is still not starting properly. No engine codes. New problem is oil light is flashing but the engine has oil. All of the gauges, lights, functioning normally. What do I try next?
View 1 RepliesSo my story starts simple enough; I ran out of gas in my buddy's car, filled it back up, it finally started but ran like >poop< for the first 10 min or so. Finally after coaxing for 10-15 min, she stays coming around. After 30 min or so of driving, I could drive her all I wanted, so long as I didn't let it idle below 12-1500 rpm. If I did that, she'd kill, and stall out. Well I drove her the other day for most the day and it seemed the kinks were worked out. So today when I tried to drive her round the block for a final check, she up and dies, and hasn't started since. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the intake, and dropped a can of sea foam in to the tank to boot, but no dice.Signs and symptoms seem to mimic a bad mass air flow sensor or possibly a clogged catalytic converter, with the exception that it only shudders and acts congested on low rpm's and doesn't choke out at high revs.
View 15 RepliesRecently bought a 2015 Golf Tsi. i have done around 4000 miles. there has been a ticking and a "coin rubbing together" sound when accelerating until about 2200 revs. dealer could not find the solution... the car has been very jolty, and at very low idle speeds, very rough and stuttery. The video shows the ticking. Could it be an exhaust/fuel injector problem? [URL] .....
View 3 Replies2015 TSI Transmission Problem... Clicking sound, over the past few weeks clicking has got worse, rough idle, very abrupt gear changes when gearing down, gear gets "stuck" around 2200 revs and jumps back and forth. what do you think the problem is. and no its not dsg. has 5000 miles.
View 8 RepliesI've noticed when encountering a moderate hill at 60 mph in cruise the revs might suddenly increase from 2200 to 2700 rpm, then back down slowly as I crest the hill. If I'm in manual mode it stays in 6th gear, but almost feels like a downshift. I also feel no accelerator pedal movement. Is this a two stage intake at work?
View 3 RepliesI am having a problem starting my Escape. It ran fine when i parked it. Now it turns over but wont start.
It turns, almost catches, then turns slower. White smoke comes out of the exhaust, which means it is getting fuel i think. When I crank it all the dash warning lights go off. I tried the spare key. I tried pushing the gas pedal. No codes on the scanner. I switched the fuel relay (r3) with the fan relay (r4). I tilted the column a few times. Coils and wiring do not show any damage or wear. I opened the air filter with no change.
The only change i notice is that when turning the key has some resistance. It does not feel like it used to turn. This year I had to install a new battery and alternator. At 90k miles i gave it a tune up (plugs, boots and coils). It has 116k on it now.
I have a 2005 3.0 front wheel drive Escape that the kids normally drive and recently had a crank over/ no start condition in my driveway. I replaced the fuel pump about three months ago. Turned the key and couldn't hear the fuel pump so I proceeded to check the fuses and relays and everything seemed good. I also checked the inertia switch and it seemed ok as well.
I then checked for power at the harness right above the fuel tank and I had 12 volts on two of the four wires so I assume that I have power to my pump. I then took out the pump and had it replaced it under warranty. So I proceeded to install the new pump and I thought that I would hook the harness back up and just turn on the key for a second to be sure that the new pump is working and there was nothing to be heard. Looking for a wiring diagram/colors of the fuel pump?
I have a 05 escape hybrid with 75k on it. there is a slight problem every once in a while when it starts the idle jumps up and down and when it is put in reverse it has no power to move. you have to put the pedal to the floor....there are no codes and ford has had the car for a total of three weeks, nothing found and of course it did not act up for them..
View 9 RepliesShe has a 2010 Escape 4-cyl and the A/C isn't working. It's miserable hot and she has small kids.
The compressor won't start. I put a gage set on the low pressure side and it's sky high, so it should be coming on at least. I also used a Launch scan tool on the OBD port and the HVAC control is commanding the compressor to start, so it's not that - which leaves the $300 compressor or the $9 a/c relay as the next steps. Unfortunately, I only see this car occasionally so I haven't really been able to get under it to check for voltage at the a/c compressor or see if it's a ground issue, etc.
I'd like to go after the relay next but can't find a a diagram I trust as to which one it is. I've heard mention that it's the WOT relay and also that there's an A/C Clutch relay. Any reliable schematic of the underhood fuse block and which position it's in? I took the cover off and they're numbered but there's no map. Also, what p/n is the relay? I'd like to just pop in a new one and see if it takes care of it.
My wife has a 2010 Ford Escape. When we try to start it you have to push the key in REAL hard to get it to crank. It's been doing this for a while and seems to be getting worse. It took her 10 minutes before she could get it to crank earlier today. Our mechanic couldn't find anything wrong the first time we went in.
View 3 RepliesSo my wife's 2005 escape currently will not start. It was running rough so we brought it in to the shop to have the codes read. There was a bad MAF sensor code so we brought it home and were gonna replace the part the next day. The next day rolls around and it refuses to start. Swapped out the spark plugs which was much needed, replaced the valve cover gasket, which had also gone bad, and put in a new MAF sensor. It still refuses to start. It will turn over, but never starts. Also, the sound as it turns over doesn't sound right. It's hard to explain what sounds off about it, it almost has a "soft" sound to it. I can try to explain better if needed.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Escape Limited V6 replaced thermostat and fuel pump and 3 coils and 3 spark plugs recently. Now the theft light has come on and will not crank or start. The fuel pump is still not working unless I manually press the fuse under the hood which is also the only way the car will crank still will not start. That's because the previous owner got the key stuck in the ignition so he bypassed it with a dial you can turn. The dial will put the car into ACC and on mode but will not get the car to crank. Also btn1 and btn2 fuses under the hood are draining my battery.
View 3 RepliesAfter 5 days on raining my escape will not start... It tries but then sounds like the battery goes dead tried jumping it didn't work. Took the battery to be check and it's good...
View 9 RepliesMy "Theft" light on my 2005 Ford Escape is flashing and I cannot start the Escape.
1. I tried the key that I had been using successfully for the last 7 years. , car did not start, Theft light blinked. ,
2. Tried wife's dealer key, Car won't start, theft light blinks.
3. Tried various things, such as manual locking & unlocking, turning alarm beeping on/off, disconnecting battery, etc. Nothing works.
Called the dealer, they say they know nothing. Must bring car in, they say. Basically I am screwed and now must spend big bucks to take it the dealer because of Ford's software bug.
My dad has an 2001 XLT 3.0 4x4 with 100,000 miles. He was having trouble with hesitation and decided to change the fuel pump. All went well and the Escape ran fine for a couple of weeks. The other day, he went to start it and nothing happened. One click and the gauges ran up and stuck. Battery was tested at Auto Zone and checked ok.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 Escape Limited 3.0l V6 AWD. Did a spark plug change at 115k miles for the first time per dealership recommendation. Got new plugs from dealership.
Was pretty cut and dry to replace. Did not check gap on plugs as was told they are not adjustable per dealership. Put pea sized amount of dialectric grease in the COPs and then fitted the plugs into several times with a little spin to coat evenly. Installed plugs to 11 ft.lbs. and reassembled all components without issue. Installed them one at a time so as to not mix up the coils.
I did break the 90-degree nylon quick disconnect for the fuel line that connects to the fuel supply manifold and had to purchase a new hose assembly. Reinstalled without issue.
Went to start up and engine cranks (hiccup sound) but does not turn over. The sound is weak and not a throaty crank like an engine should give. Check engine light flashes on dash and issues a frequent tone also.
Wondering what the issue is? Are they the wrong plugs? Improperly gapped? Possible the fuel line did not pressurize and there is no fuel getting to the plugs for ignition? Kind of stumped as it was a pretty cut-and-dry replacement (if such a thing is possible).