Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Trans Constantly Hunts Up And Down A Little When Running About 55 - 60 Mph
Jul 5, 2014
Along with a high idle problem that's driving me a little bonkers on my 2002 3.0 V6 Escape, I've noticed that the tranny constantly hunts up and down a little when I'm running about 55-60 mph. Today I got a code P1120. Makes me wonder about the TPS... I replaced it during routine maintenance about a year ago with a unit from carquest, so I don't have the original to replace it with for troubleshooting. Will a TPS also cause a high idle, or are those 2 issues typically not related?
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My escape has over 200k miles. My battery light dimly flickers constantly when running. there is also a misfire that seems to correspond with the flicker. the faster i rev the engine, the faster the battery light blinks.
My battery constantly shows 14.1 volts. the battery is new the alternator has been replaced twice in the past 2 years.... I noticed when i use my rear washer fluid, it spills into the car on the passenger side kick panel inside the vehicle.
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Engine light flashing constantly with a vibration. It don't give any codes with the reader.
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I just did a Sable 3.0 engine swap on my 01 Escape auto 4WD with 112K miles. Prior engine spun several lower end bearings. New motor runs fine. Prior to swap, trans operated fine. Didn't have any of the apparently common 2-3 flare or OD shudder problems. Car was dealer maintained and fluid looked fine - didn't look or smell burned.
Now, after the engine swap, from a stop or at low RPM situations like around a slow corner, the trans seems starved. Have to rev the engine a bit to get the pressure up, car jerks into gear and then trans operates fine. Shifts through all gears fine and goes into and out of OD fine. This happens from a stop when trying to shift into either Fwd or Rev. Feels like the trans is low on fluid, but it's not.
I drained the trans prior to doing the swap and refilled with Mercon, not Mercon V.
No engine codes. Kept my OBDII reader on while driving to see if it threw any temp codes. Still no codes.
I'm sure that the trans was reinstalled correctly. I'm sure the TC didn't cram the pump.
If I recall, there are only four trans sensors and I'm sure I hooked them up correctly.
I'd like to like this car but it's getting pretty hard. Since I bought it a month ago, I've been under it more than I've been in it.
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I own a 2002 Escape, 4WD 4cly manual trans. A couple of days ago, when I left work I stopped at a stop light. I shifted out of gear while I waited for the light to change like I always do. When I went to shift back into gear, I couldn't. I found that if I turned the key off, with the clutch disengaged, I could shift into gear without a problem, start the car up and drive away.
Since the first time this has happened, it has happened a few more times, always when stopped, once or twice while slowing down to stop (low RPMs). Besides all that, the car shifts fine while driving.
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My wife has a 02 Ford Escape XLS with a I4/manual trans, she has been saying it has been making weird grinding noises for a while but has not been able to replicate it for me to hear. Today it locked in gear and stalled, she can depress the clutch and start it, but can't take off in whatever "gear it thinks it's in" and it'll stall. To quote her.
So odds are the clutch or trans is toast, I'm more of a full size truck guy when it comes to doing work, what to look at? She's getting it towed and I have enough tools to do the job just not a ton of time this second to do the research, When I know more I'll add it.
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2002 Escape XLS 2.0L 4-cyl 5MT FWD. Slipping Clutch.
I've read here n there that the Escape clutch is a poor design & others have reported that a clutch repair doesn't solve their shuddering problem. After putting off the job for a while, I'd like to replace the clutch.
Here's a topic from here : Manual Transmission shudder / fill & drain access?
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Doing trans fluid change on the 2009 -2012? Is it the same as myCD4E drain 4 refill? I know its a different fluid probably buy from Ford.
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Lights come on when the ignition is on, regardless of the position of the headlight switch. They shut off about 1 minute after the engine is shut off. The warning chime dings the entire time until the lights shut off.
I want the light to work with the switch and not come on all the time.
It is not just the daytime running lamps. High beams also work with the headlight switch in the off position, ignition on.
Ignition off, the headlights switch functions as it should.
I bought the Escape about 1 month ago. Dealer purchase so I don't know how to get a hold of the previous owner.
It only has 51,000 miles, very clean and all service records.
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I am trying to run a power wire through the firewall for an amp. I can't find a place to run it ....
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So my wife's 2005 escape currently will not start. It was running rough so we brought it in to the shop to have the codes read. There was a bad MAF sensor code so we brought it home and were gonna replace the part the next day. The next day rolls around and it refuses to start. Swapped out the spark plugs which was much needed, replaced the valve cover gasket, which had also gone bad, and put in a new MAF sensor. It still refuses to start. It will turn over, but never starts. Also, the sound as it turns over doesn't sound right. It's hard to explain what sounds off about it, it almost has a "soft" sound to it. I can try to explain better if needed.
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Some years back my "farm" '05 prius when a host of bells and whistles went off, cooling fan ran more than normal, and I lost power a couple of times. Turned out this farm prius had an accumulation of dirt, dog hair, hay and other debris that needed to be cleaned out. You got me through the whole process, and the car's run fine until.... . Fast forward a couple of years to 200,003 miles. Now the cooling fan is running pretty constantly, the red triangle stays lit, the check engine light comes on, the (!) is on, and the VSC light is on. Haven't hooked it up to check codes, but did check cooling fan and it's clean. Would it possibly possibly better to change the 12 volt battery?
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I have a 2007 XLS, 2.3L Auto/AWD. About a month ago it quit running while driving, just shut off. When I tried to restart the dash made clicking noises, fuel pump grunt type noises, cluster stays in drive position even though floor shifter indicates I'm in park. Pulled a code P0606, replaced PCM. It started and ran for 20 minutes, made it about 1/4 mile up the road, shut off again. Now I can't pull a code, dash indicates I'm in drive while vehicle is in park, same noises etc.
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My 2001 escape recently decided to act up, it was running rough for a little while and then it died and would only run intermittently after that. I found the #3 coil was bad and the egr valve was broken. I replaced those and now when it decides to run it runs smooth but when you give it has it bogs down and dies and doesn't want to run again for a while. I also put on a new fuel filter and the fuel pump sounds like its running good. I know I'm missing something here but I can't seem to figure it out. Also there are no DTC's at all. I really need this car to be back on the road again.
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I am finding that after a heavy rain that water is running out of the bottom of all four door drain holes when I open them.I have not noticed this on any other of my previous vehicles.Is it "a" good that they are draining well, or "b" bad that water is getting in in the first place?
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So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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Background: No A/C. Identified Clutch had completely failed. I replaced the clutch.
Status: I turned on the A/C and I saw the clutch come on...it was on for maybe 60s. During that time, the vents started to get cold! After 60s it never came on again.
Troubleshooting: I have refrigeration gauges but not much idea how to read the result. I hooked them up and noted about 350psi for the HP side, and about 100psi for the LP side. I think this tells me I should have enough charge in the system to cycle the compressor.
At this point I don't want to start random troubleshooting as I don't want to touch the refrigerant loop more than necessary. A few questions:
1) The HPCO switch, I was reading that it's mounted on a Shrader valve. Is this the case? I'd like to remove it and test at which point it switches. I have not tried bypassing it.
2) Do our vehicles have a temperature sensor near the evaporator? If so, whereabouts is it located?
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My 2006 Escape Hybrid with <3500 miles on it had the ABS and 4X4 lights light today when I am 60 miles from home. I had this happen a few years ago, and I replaced a cracked tone ring, driving it to the dealer, who was only 5 miles away. My question is, is it safe to drive home and take it to my dealer who is 60 miles away, or should I have it towed?
The vehicle runs, in fact, the ABS and 4x4 light went out - in fact, I think I saw an indicator message that said 4x4 restored, but I am not sure, it appeared and then was replaced by X miles to empty. I would prefer to go home and take it to the dealer I purchased it from, but I don't want to drive in a car where the brakes may not work. I've read differing accounts on the internet and I can't figure if this is a "service soon" meaning I can make the trip home, or if it will strand me or worse if the brakes will fail on the trip home.
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I just bought a 2010 Escape XLT 4 cyl. The mpg is showing to be 16.7, which is really low compared to what it's supposed to be. I bought it off of a car lot and it had been discounted so I'm guessing it was sitting there for a while before it was sold. Do you think that would cause the mpg to be low? I've driven it on the highway and around town. I've had it for 2 days, but it's freaking me out thinking that there is something wrong with it.
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Get a set of real gauges if you want to do diagnostics. 110 psi on the low side indicates that the system isn't running at the time and that the underhood temp is around 100 F.
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Ok, so I've got a little of an odd issue. It seems that no matter what I do, the AC is always active. Today I reverse flushed the heater core in my 02 Escape, and verified all hoses were clear. I replaced the thermostat housing (other thread) along with a new thermostat.
But, when I run the car, even with the heat full up and the selector set to the defroster and floor, the ac still blows ICE cold. It seems like it is still engaged no matter what. Winter is coming and I dont want my daughter to freeze (her truck).
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