Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Can't Enter Programming Mode For New Key Fob
May 14, 2012
I have a new keyfob for my wife's 2000 X, and I'm trying to program it. The procedure is simple, right? Get in the truck, put the key in the ignition, lock the doors, unlock the doors, then cycle it to the run position (back of off), 8 times -- staying in "run" the eighth time.
I've done this OVER and OVER after my wife said it wouldn't work for her. The problem is that when you hit run the 8th time, the locks should cycle, indicating that it is ready to program the remote. The problem is the locks never cycle.
I also tried the same procedure without the locking and unlocking step prior to turning the key. And I also tried it by locking and unlocking prior to inserting the key.
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I purchased a used toyota camry 2006 2.4 LE. They key fob doesn't work since I got it, so I thought maybe the key fob battery is dead or the key fob itself is damaged. I searched for how to program they key fob and found some instructions, but it doesn't work. I can't get the car to enter the programming mode for the key fob(it should lock and unlock automatically as tutorials point out). Where to start tackling this problem?
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Have already fixed the weak lock motors on my 2000 F250. Now I can't get the truck to go into programming mode. I know it has Keyless entry, as I located the relays and identified the wiring while trying to fix the weak locks before I found the fix here.
I've tried the key on off 8 times but the locks never cycle. I've tried it with the driver door open and closed, cycling the locks from unlocked to locked to unlocked before cycling the ignition switch. Tried cycling the ign switch 5 times, 8 times and 10 times.
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I have a 200 GMC Jimmy SLE and I am trying to program the new FOD key for it. I followed the listed instructions here [URL] .... and here [URL] ..... but it will not enter program mode.
So, is there another method to try to get it into program mode? I have looked here and else but the only other instructions has to do with pre 2000 series blazers.
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My 2000 excursion will not enter the program mode to allow me to program 2 new remote fobs. A couple of years ago I successfully programmed two remotes and it was easy. One broke so I thought well I will buy 2 more. I have tried the procedure over 100 times and I can not make it work. Followed instructions to a tee that came with the fobs and also the procedure in owners manual. Is there a relay that could be bad? I can use the door number code and my last key fob still works fine. I have disconnected the battery, both cables, held them together for 1 minute and left them off for 1/2 hour. Still no luck.
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When I bought that '99 F-250 SuperDuty, it only came with one key and one keyfob. So, I had another key made (no chip in key, btw!) and ordered 2 more keyfobs.
I've followed the instructions to the letter. I cannot get the truck to go into 'program mode' to program the new keyfobs.
I've also ordered (and received) new door locks, ignition 'lock', since the key to start the truck doesn't work in the doors. Strange.
Anyway, the original owner said that he had to have the ignition 'lock' replaced and he lost the door keys.
What is the proper way to get this truck into 'program mode' so that I can program all 3 keyfobs?
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My 2011 Prius does not have an MFD since mine is the standard model. I tried to find a way to monitor the 12V battery by searching the forum but could not find a way to enter maintenance mode without the MFD. How to put my Prius on maintenance mode?
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I have a 2006 Camry XLE and I had to replace the battery on the keyless entry remote. I am trying to get it to link back up but all internet searches tell me to go through a process of opening and closing the doors to get the car into "programming mode".
I have tried the sequence several times and I cant get my car to go into "Programming mode" as this website suggests but my car does not respond to that sequence. Am I doing something wrong? How do you get your car to link back up with the keyless remote?
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I have a 2009 Prius with an Enginer 4kwh battery pack. I know that the Prius' programming has a number of parameters that control when it will enter EV mode.
The display says "Cannot enter EV mode now" when engaging my Coastal EV mode switch at times when I believe it should be able to enter EV mode. Here are the conditions from a recent trip:
-Stopped at a light
-The ICE not running
-Car fully warmed up (just drove 10 miles)
-AC off
-Outside air temp 62 degrees
-Battery showing green bars with the top bar white
If I enter EV mode when the car is started cold then it works fine. Once I've driven it a while I can't get it to return to EV mode reliably.
The last time I spoke with my local Toyota dealer they said that because the 2009 American Prius was not shipped with an EV mode switch they would not support that mode.
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Just bought a 2005 excursion diesel and they handed me a key fob and said that all I have to do is program it.
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Have 1000 miles left on the 150K CA battery on my 2009.
First, I can no longer enter EV mode with the ev mode. It always says cannot change into ev mode right now. In the past, that only occurred during the warm up cycles. Now it always says that regardless except if I try when first powering on before the engine starts. In that case, when it was working, it would switch over and the MFD would change to show the battery. Now nothing and the engine always starts.
Also, the battery charges and discharges much faster than it used to. I can barely get a 1/4 in stealth (feathering the throttle to keep the ICE from kicking on) without it going from 8 bars down to 2.
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I have a 2000 Intrepid with ATC (automatic temperature control).I noticed my A/C clutch is always is on even in heat mode (no defrost mode) Is this normal in automatic mode even if I set temp at 90° without defrost mode? Been looking on forums and some say it is normal for newer cars and some say no. What is correct.Doesn't seem normal to me when I set temp at 90° and the A/C is still running. The heat does work though.I did check for voltage at the clutch and it has power so something is telling it to run, (not a bad clutch,stuck clutch etc).
I never seen or heard it cycle when watching it. (hard to tell when driving) because the cooling fans go from low to high sometimes even without the A/C cycling.
In manual mode I can physically turn on or off the A/C but if it is on, I never seen it cycle yet when set at a normal temp 72-75° is this normal?I know it depends on outside temp,humidity, inside temp etc but if it feels comfortable in the cabin shouldn't the A/C cycle on and off every few minuts-10 minutes etc or is it normal to go 30 minutes or more without cycling? I don't have it on max Cool or recirculate mode either.
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I have a 2009 Ford Focus. The ignition key can not enter the steering column cylinders unless the key is jiggled with a far amount of pushing. I took the car to the dealership in the late Fall and they replaced the ignition cylinder. This worked fine until Spring when the outside temperature got above 75 F.
I have tried using the extra key and it also will not be permitted to enter the cylinder except with a great amount of key jiggling. This problem only occurs when it is above 75 F, it is not a problem for 6 months of the year; but, I am concerned that sometime I won't be able to get the car started.
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Okay here's the story I bought a 99 Ford Ranger with a bad 4.0 engine. I had a newer 2002 4.0 and tranny out of another Ford Ranger thought it be an easy swap put the newer engine in and it will only run on the original Older ecm (but ruff) and the older ECM is screwing with the transmission (no reverse) unplug connections at tranny and i have reverse. So I buy a ECM from a junkyard for the 2002 and drop it off at the dealership to have the Pats programmed. and the dealership says they can't program it to make it run. They say the Pats are different from 99 to 2002. So I go another route I buy an SCT performance chip and have them disable the Pats. still won't run.
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I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
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Shifts slowly or stays in shifting mode longer than necessary. Must stop accelerating and wait a few seconds until the shifting is complete. Does something need adjusting?
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I have 2 fully functioning keys but I am looking at trying to program a miscut key I got for my truck just for the fob. What Id like to do is basically leave my key in the ignition and have a FOB with the actual key cut off so it is only the head containing the fob. I can remote start the truck, unlock the doors and then get in a use the key in the ignition as normal. I just hate the hugs key on my key ring. Is there a way to program the key fob, not the PATS key. Its miscut so thats not an option.
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I bought a 04 explorer with a bad thermostat which led to a bad head gasket, fixed that and managed to not have to buy the special tools or time it , but now that its running I don't have any heat. I have complete service records on this vehicle and there was never a complaint of the heater not working. The a/c works and the heat will adjust the a/c temp, but no heat. In trouble shooting it I found that I am not getting vacuum to call for the coolant to enter the heater core. When I apply suction to it, it will send the coolant. Even though I wasn't getting the clicking noise, I pulled the blend door actuator and it looks surprisingly good (not looking forward to putting it back in). Where to look next?
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Purchased a key from ebay like the ones pictured. Long story short, after much struggle I've gotten it programmed to manually start the truck and to lock/unlock with the buttons. I have yet to program the remote start button. The information that I've found so far says to locate the remote start system override button to begin programming it to start the truck.
I installed the Ford remote start unit myself along with the VSS (vehicle security module). I have remote start working via a cell phone app. The vehicle security appears to be working as it should. There is no override or any other buttons on the RMST unit. Only an LED indicator light. The ebay vendor's listing states that the key can be self-programmed. So far they've been unresponsive to my questions. Am I overlooking something? Is there another way besides paying my dealer again to hook it up to their IDS to program this key?
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Recently bought a 2001. In the process of reading about this engine I discovered there is a some what regular breakdown of head gaskets causing water to leak into cylinders and oil pan, all of which is serious.
Given the vehicle is 12 years old and has 89K miles it appears it is in the age and range of where this leakage can occur. Any knowledgeable engine rebuilders that are familiar with this issue on the 4.2 have any comments???
1. Can this issue be avoided by replacing head gaskets now rather than waiting for future failure???
2. Are there new and improved head gaskets for this motor???
3. Does the problem occur on both heads gaskets?
4. Is that all that needs to be done or are there other seals that need replacement???
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I just bought a new 2010 F150 and it came with the factory remote start with the separate key fob. Can I get one of the integrated key fobs and program it to my truck/starter? Also if that is possible where can I get one?
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