Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Cannot Get F250 To Enter Program Mode
Mar 19, 2014
When I bought that '99 F-250 SuperDuty, it only came with one key and one keyfob. So, I had another key made (no chip in key, btw!) and ordered 2 more keyfobs.
I've followed the instructions to the letter. I cannot get the truck to go into 'program mode' to program the new keyfobs.
I've also ordered (and received) new door locks, ignition 'lock', since the key to start the truck doesn't work in the doors. Strange.
Anyway, the original owner said that he had to have the ignition 'lock' replaced and he lost the door keys.
What is the proper way to get this truck into 'program mode' so that I can program all 3 keyfobs?
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I have a 200 GMC Jimmy SLE and I am trying to program the new FOD key for it. I followed the listed instructions here [URL] .... and here [URL] ..... but it will not enter program mode.
So, is there another method to try to get it into program mode? I have looked here and else but the only other instructions has to do with pre 2000 series blazers.
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F250 7.3L diesel started to flash OD light, goes into limp mode, code p1747. No other codes. Have had issues for a couple of years where the truck would not shift into gear for awhile; sometimes a couple of minutes till it would engage. Have done lots of diagnostics. Visual check harness. Have 12v on pins 1&12 on harness at transmission plug. Plug had some ATF visible, but cleaned it up and continuity good. (with 4" exhaust hard to get to connector).
Checked all solenoid wires with a DVM back to plug at PCM for continuity and shorts, all good. Pulled transmission pack and checked resistance on all solenoids except temp varistor all within specs. Removed Banks Trans Command and rewired tranny plug and pulled Ottomind chip from PCM. Still goes into limp mode and throws code. Did not see any bad solder joints or burns inside PCM by the way.
Seems like PCM right? But here is a complication to my issues. For over a year I have been having electrical issues like the radio not working and windows not working intermittently after starting up. After running for awhile or on restart would work fine. Sounds like the Instrument Cluster issues or relays.(?)
Will be pulling IC and checking for any bad solder joints. However, did not throw p1747 till just recently and now my radio has really gone wonky. It comes on when key is on automatically and then proceeds to cycle through settings; AM-FM-CD.
So questions are, "Is it possible that a bad Instrument Cluster can cause a p1747 code?" "Bad Ground to Tranny" "Can a bad PCM cause a electrical issue in IC??" "Are these 2 separate issues?"
2002 f250 7.3L, 4R100 automatic trans, ~180,000miles
Banks Stinger package, 4" exhaust, TransCommand, (now removed).
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My 2005 Ford F250 6.0 diesel CLIMATE CONTROL DEFAULTS TO DEFROST mode all the time now. For some reason I'll turn on the AC and it is either already in defrost or changes to it no matter what I do. Is the head unit in the dash the problem or is it a vacuum leak or an electrical issue?
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I have a buddies truck as a loaner while my f250 is in the shop. He doesn't and has never had a key fob. Just to clarify he bought it used years ago and its never been his DD so he never bothered getting a key fob. I picked one up w intention of programming it for him but i cant get it to work. Wondering if his truck doesn't have rke??
Ive tried the turn on and off 5 times and also 8 times w no luck. Its a 1999' F350 crew cab Lariat, all the bells and whistles so i would think it should have rke.
It is however a manual transmission V10. Wondering if it being a manual is messing me up having that little button one has to push to turn the key all the way back. Is there a different procedure for manual or maybe just no rke?
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Bought a brand new F250 6.7 it has 7000 miles in it now and the check engine light comes on and the truck goes into limp mode. I have taken it in to the dealership twice they said there is no code they can find and they just reset the check engine light and it does ok for a bit then starts the cycle all over again. It also is only getting about 6.5 mpg....
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My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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This maybe a dumb question. But when do you use this feature? How many pounds should I start using the tow mode? I dont haul much. I just haul a 4place trailer with 4wheelers. And in the bed another 4 wheeler or camp gear. All the 4wheelers weigh over 650lbs wet and the trailer not too sure but its steel.
My truck doesnt have a hard time hauling, it shifts fine. Feels like its not even hauling anything. I did use to tow mode once but it seem it just keeps the rpm higher and I felt that the highter rpm was not needed when I was hauling.
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I have a 2009 F350 and use it almost exclusively for towing. Every time I stop to fill up or eat or whatever I have to push the tow haul button again when I start the truck- no big deal really just annoying at times because I don't always remember to turn it back on. Is there a way to have it turn on with the button and not turn off until I push it again (even after the trucks been turned off)? I suppose while we're on the subject same with the heated seats?
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I have just bought a 2004 F-250 SuperDuty 6.0 Diesel with 98k miles from a Ford dealer (no warantee)...
Just after I drove it home I noticed the Tow/Haul mode switch was not working - no dashboard light and no transmission downshifting.
The dealer took the truck back in and kept it for 2 days, it came back working, they claimed to have replaced the gear shift lever. 500 miles later and the Tow Haul has failed again.
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I have a 2001 F-350 S/D w/7.3. Question is... Is it possible for the mode switch ( one controls floor/ defrost and A/c ) to not function or should I say leave the a/c on even if it is not in a/c position? What I have noticed was that when it is in the floor mode or the vent mode (not the floor/vent) the compressor does not come on. When it is in vent/floor or either a/c modes it does. Is this normal... I don't think so though I do know anytime the a/c is switched on compressor should come on but no time without a/c being on.. Maybe I'm wrong
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2011 F350 loaded. Stuck on vent mode. Found actuator can feel it trying to move but something is stuck. Tried to remove the actuator but not enough room between the motor and a steel bracket welded in to the dash. (Not removable). Do I have to remove the dash ? (I suspect something fell inside and is stopping the big vent door from moving as i did pull the motor far enough away to move all the door except the vent door.
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I recently bought a h&s tuner and installed a dpf delete kit. Everything works great when the truck is not plugged in to the tuner although when I do plug it in, the truck keeps throwing a communications code and goes into a limp mode until I delete the code. I believe it was p0073 but i maye be mistaken. Regardless it has to do with communicating through the obd2 port. I sent the tuner in to get checked out and it turns out its something to do with the truck. I've checked all the fuses and tried to check for broken wires. Where to look next?
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I took apart, cleaned and lubed my hubs. My question is: how does the vacuum make the gears work?
Does the vacuum force (suck) the nylon assembly to push the outer gear towards the center of the truck, sliding on the inner gear thus engaging the teeth so that the axle shaft turns the hub?
When the vacuum is gone, does spring pressure pushes the outer gear away from the center of the truck thus disengaging the teeth from the inner gear and allowing the hub to free wheel?
Is this vacuum source constant during 4wd and not present during 2wd or do I not understand how the system works? I have read about a “vacuum pulse” that locks the hubs and another pulse that unlocks the hubs and this confuses me.
BTW, I like the way the Auto lock works. I had a set of Warn Auto Lock hubs on my 78 CJ. They worked on the principle of a set of roller bearings that would lock (pinch) when there was torque coming from the drive shaft. There was no vacuum involved at all. The down side was that when you coasted, the front hubs would be in two wheel drive and so you would not get the engine braking on all 4 wheels. These ESOF seem to have solved this problem.
Oh, I should probably tell you that I just purchased my 04 F250 SuperDuty 4x4 with the 6.0 diesel, just had it a week. It has been 18 years since I owned a 4x4. Before this I owned an 87 F250 2wd with the 6.9 diesel.
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New 2016 - 6.7 automatic with exhaust brake:
In tow haul mode is the exhaust brake automatically activated or do you still have to turn on by button? Getting mixed answers, and seems to me that it does not activate unless you push the button which is seems to be what the literature is saying.
On steep downhill pulling heavy trailer, in tow haul mode every time you hit the brake it downshifts, and isn't long before it will over rev, unless you kick it out of tow haul mode. is there a way to hold it in a gear in tow haul mode? Or should I shift into manual mode at the top of the hill then use the +/- buttons.
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My 05 SD started to flash tow haul mode and check gauges message came on while I was towing my car hauler trans temp gauge quit working then check engine light came on too truck runs fine disconnected batteries then re connect them ( trailer now disconnected) problem solved for about 3 mi of driving then it came back w/o trailer I'm thinking rusty trailer ball on hitch caused this maybe not a good ground for trailer tow computer? What kind of scanner etc do I need to possibly clear this problem out? I am the original owner never seen this happen with this or any other trailer I've towed.
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Last Oct. I noticed that my ac/heater started to intermittently stop blowing from AC fresh air/recir/vent/etc. mode and stick to defrost only. Do I have a bad switch and or a vacuum issue here? It's a '01 F350 CC 7.3 .....
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I have a 2006 f-250 super duty with a 6.0 and auto trans. I was pulling a trailer with about 5k of vehicle on the trailer.
Problem : after a long trip on good roads, I had to pull a steep hill. climbing the hill i did not shift into tow mode and all of a sudden my engine raced up to about 3k rpms and seemed to either shift to low or ( maybe ?) the Governor may engaged ?
Anyway I made it to the top of the grade and it seemed to be fine from there.
Question Is the trans broken, or did the computer maybe try to protect the trans ? It seems to work fine still?
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One of our trucks, 2004 F350 Powerstroke, my company truck, recently the last snow even we had, my tow haul mode would pop on and off almost evertime I shifted from drive to reverse while plowing. I didn't want it on, it just kept poping on and off. Thought maybe the button was stuck, but it moved like normal. My other thought was there is a loose connection in the shifter or column causing it to go on and off.
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Ok just bought this truck ran fine. Put a sct tuner on that the truck came with and some how got the egr turned on. It had a egr delete so it was smoking and finally found it out that it had turned on but fixed it. Now we have another problem, it will start up and run fine and about 45 seconds it will start running rough and go into a limp mode. It will run rough and starts to die slowly and when it starts to die there is no throttle at all.
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