Ford Excursion :: 2000 V8 - Whirling Noise / Radiator Leaking Coolant?
Feb 23, 2015
Today while I was working I walked back to my truck after finishing the job and saw a red fluid leaking from behind the front bumper, I crawled underneath and saw that it was leaking from somewhere between the plastic cover for the fan and the radiator but I couldn't find exactly where it was coming from, I drove 30 miles before I got to the job site with my ac on, and my ac was making a noise that seemed like a whirling noise but I kinda brushed it off as the condenser going bad or whatever. After I found my truck leaking I decided to drive 20 miles to the next job site but this time I left the ac off and nothing happened the temperature gauge didn't even go up, I checked underneath when I finished driving and there was no more coolant leaking from the radiator. I drove it an additional 50 miles before I got home and still no leaks. Could the bad ac system cause coolant to leak? I have a 2000 excursion 5.4L V8
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2001 F250- V10... Lower radiator hose has coolant leaking - Right now I cannot tell if its the hose or the radiator itself (hoping not) - I tried to take the clamp off and it broke - Any tricks to removing the hose? its on there pretty tight.... I guess if I don't want to save the hose I can rip it off with a pair of pliers but before I do that wasn't sure.
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I successfully replaced the radiator on my 2003 Ford excursion (LMD, V10, gas). I filled her up with coolant and started her and turned on the air full blast.
Noticed though that she is now leaking somewhere between the engine and the transmission pan.Where and what to check?
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I decided to install a trans cooler since I was servicing the trans and got the pan dropped anyway. But when I cracked open the trans cooler connector(which is totally unnecessary and should be avoided completed), I noticed that I broke the trans cooler connector fitting to the radiator and now the coolant leaks badly from around the fitting. What are my options other than replacing the radiator? Would some liquid metal treatment do the magic? Or is there a way to remove and replace the fitting(I am not sure this would be possible since it looked like the fitting was welded to the radiator)?
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On Friday am I noticed a 6" sized puddle on the garage floor. Coolant leak on the drivers side coming off the frame. Dropped it off at the dealer on Sunday and today the tech tells me it was in fact a radiator leak and the new one will be here wed. They hope to have it buttoned late Wednesday. I am assuming all will be covered under warranty.
I have 23k miles logged and had just got home from a 1300 mile run pulling about 18k worth of hay and trailer. Truck performed flawlessly. Averaged 11mpg for the trip. I am hoping this is the first and last radiator replacement I have to go thru.
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I have an '09 Accent, with 102,000 miles on it, it is in good shape, and current on all its maintenance, however, i am leaking coolant via the radiator cap, and don't know why. It has been replaced twice, once by me, and once at the dealership after a pressure check confirmed i was not leaking anywhere else, ie: into the engine.
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On my way home from work, after driving about 45 minutes, I stopped at the Post Office. On the way out I noticed that coolant was leaking. I was able to make it home without overheating. My guess was either the water pump or a hose.
This morning I physically checked the hoses and they seemed fine. I filled the radiator with water and started the van and let it run until it got hot. I watched to see if I could tell where the leak came from. I could not get it to leak, after 15 minutes I gave up. I know it was leaking yesterday, not only did I see green coolant, the radiator was low on coolant.
What should I do to further diagnose the problem?
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I bought a 2011 GTI this past March, it has about 5700 miles on it. Last week I posted about my radiator leaking coolant and what I went through to get it fixed. I got the car back last saturday and everything was fine, up until tonight. I was pulling onto the highway (no one coming, luckily), and as I went to shift into 2nd, I heard a loud bang, almost like my car backfired, and then the CEL came on and my car went into limp mode. I immediately pulled over, but it was dark and I couldn't really see much (not sure what I was looking for anyways). I was about 3 miles from my house so I drove home cautiously, but as I was driving home, I smelled a faint burning odor.
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Recently I started leaking coolant on the driver side area to the right of the engine:
I am assuming I need to replace some part/tubing that has a leak in it, but I am not sure what any of these things are called. How to identify what leaking part here is?
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My father put my f150 into reverse he says he didn't gas it. It was 2-3 feet in between the cars and the hitch went into the bottom grill below the front license plate. Coolant is leaking from the left side between the radiator and the block. Now the trucks hitch didn't go far enough to hit the radiator, or anything else I can see. I have cleaned the coolant and am in the waiting process try to identify the location. I believe that it is oozing from the water pump ( most of the coolant is underneath it), on the other hand there is coolant also by the radiator just not as much. I have the ability to fix this just not the tools. My family is going to take it to the dealer ship I just do not want them to get finagled around.
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This guy started as a slow leak. Now leaks down entire coolant res whether engine is running.or not. Appears the connection to the rest leg isn't sealed. Not sure if available from factory, or if I should cut it out and replace with barbed tee and hose clamps. That's my inclination. Not a ton of room to work with. I think it's an excursion specific thing, from pics I don't think super duty has a t there. Guessing it's where rear coolant line tees off?
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Alright, yesterday while I am at work, wife calls me up and tells me the Ex is leaking coolant. I got home a little before dark and looked at it. Right behind the front passenger fender well, it appears that either a bolt came out of a bracket, or someone took it off for something and was too lazy to put it on, allowing the metal elbows to swing over and rub on a bracket. So now I have a hole in that elbow, and I need to the excursion for our trip over Christmas leave. Where I might get an elbow to replace that one? Also, need to know the bolt size for that heater hose bracket to keep it from happening again? If I can't find one pretty soon, I will have to JBWeld or something it temporarily to hold us through until after Christmas.
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I'm 650 miles from home in WV and the truck overheated and I saw coolant leaking from the area above the passenger side rear tire.
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I have a 2000 Ex with 252,000 miles. Where it is extremely hilly (Ozark Mountains). I tow a 6400 lb travel trailer. What I am having problems with is the Ex is running extremely hot when towing and climbing hills. Not in the red, but damn close. No problems what so ever when not towing. No problems when towing on level ground. I know the Ex is working hard, but I want to keep it running cooler. I have flushed the radiator literally 20 times and have done 2 chemical flushes. Is it time to just replace the radiator? How many passes does the stock radiator have? What about a bigger water pump? I have the 5.4 motor, which I love so no bashing my little V8. It has all the power I need. I don't need to climb hills doing 90mph.
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My truck has a 6 o powerstroke. I noticed some coolant loss, which I've been monitoring since I had the truck studded 2 years ago. Today I was looking around trying to find a cause of the coolant loss and I noticed some crusty orange residue on a hose that runs under the coolant reservoir. The hose seems to go behind the valve covers along the firewall to the passenger side through a steel line, and then go in a loop back to itself?
I'm guessing it's for the heater core, but I didn't see where it actually goes into the heater core, or anything else for that matter. It is a molded hose that has one of those crimped transitions into the steel line, so I'm not sure if patching it is an option or if I should look at replacing the whole piece. I'm guessing it's going to be expensive. From the fact that it never failed before, I'm thinking it wasn't originally routed with it touching the valve cover and was just something that happened after having the body off during the stud install.
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Mine has a 4.0 V6, the freeze plugs are leaking coolant, the guy at the shop said it will require pulling the engine to replace them. Is there an easy ( less expensive ) fix ? I was told I could use block sealer, is that an option? She has appox.160,000 miles...
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My 2000 F150 started leaking from a small pin hole in the coolant bypass pipe that is located on the top / front of the intake manifold, it is the pipe that flows toward the heater core. I decided to remove it without pulling the intake "being lazy". I almost had it and it snapped, while trying to retrieve the piece that was still in the hole It broke and part fell into the intake, I assume into the head in one of the coolant ports. I have removed the intake and still cant seem to see it or retrieve it. I have tried a shop vac, and a magnet wand, still nothing. While pulling a vacuum I noticed that I had flow / suctions from all my cooling ports on both heads, the line from the heater core, and even my top radiator hose.
So I guess my question is, If I cant get this out and it fell into one of the water jackets in my block will it hurt anything??? I know rust and other things end up in there anyway. I still haven't given up on removing, I am really in need of answers,, in case I cant remove it. I do know the flow of coolant is up through the pipe I was trying to replace, and either through the heater core (hose), thermostat, or maybe the bypass back to pump.
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My 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.
Failed troubleshooting:
Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.
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I own a Honda Crv 2000. I took the car for an oil change at a local oil change shop. They overfilled the oil. I went to the city and came back, and next day the underside of the car was oily and leaky. The car was dripping oil. I immediately siphoned out 300ml of extra oil from the car. After that the leaking stopped and it does not leak/drip anymore. At the same time I saw coolant dripping from the lower radiator hose (where it meets the radiator). I noticed when the fans come on it start dripping. But as of today the coolant dripping has stopped. I am thinking of changing the hose.
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Having an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
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My 2000 Ex, v10, 194,000 miles, requires a new stabilizer shock and the shocks all the way around appear to be leaking. Any recommendations for new shocks? The vehicle receives heavy off-road use as well as towing a three horse trailer through mountainous terrain.
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