Ford A/C :: 1993 E150 - Coolant Leaking From Trans Cooler Radiator Fitting
Jun 24, 2016
I decided to install a trans cooler since I was servicing the trans and got the pan dropped anyway. But when I cracked open the trans cooler connector(which is totally unnecessary and should be avoided completed), I noticed that I broke the trans cooler connector fitting to the radiator and now the coolant leaks badly from around the fitting. What are my options other than replacing the radiator? Would some liquid metal treatment do the magic? Or is there a way to remove and replace the fitting(I am not sure this would be possible since it looked like the fitting was welded to the radiator)?
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I need to replace the fan clutch on my 1993 Ford E150 Club Wagon 4.9L Chateau. The original part, YB466 has been replaced. The new ones are all too long and the fan will hit the radiator. The original is 2-3/8" long front to back, including the nut. The replacement ones available are 2-5/8" or longer. I have talked to our local machinist, and he says the new parts cannot be made shorter. The water pump shaft is not long enough to allow shortening. He says look for a shorter water pump.
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I have Russell fittings and hose coming to hook up my new 6.0 cooler into my 5.4 powered truck. Have a question on the fittings on the bottom of the radiator for the cooler lines, first what is the 3/8" line called? Is it a double flare or what? And second question the female end that's into the plastic tank with the hex head does that unscrew or is it made into the tank? Trying to figure this out so I can overnight two adapters so I can get rid of the fugly hard line completely and use Russell braided line throughout my install
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This line is rusted out on my V10 and leaking fluid.
How hard/expensive is this to fix?
I'm in the middle of doing my exhaust manifolds right now, so I'm hoping it's a simple bolt-on fix.
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2002 4.6 SC with towing package... Transmission cooling lines to radiator leaking. Replacing them? How long does it take, can it be done while working on the ground? Any tricks or problems to look out for?
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I've had my early 99 f350 7.3L for a lil while now. Starting to see few problems surfacing. while doing my weekly fluid levels found oil in coolant and after looking around found oil covering bottom of driver side engine. As far as i can see it looks like oil cooler leaking from front side.. Should i just replace oil cooler or rebuild?
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I've got a 7.3 tranny that has had ELC Coolant and water mixed in with tranny fluid because of a bad radiator. I drained the fluid from the tranny a week ago and when I pulled off the pan today there is still junk in there. I'm planning on putting in a new filter, gasket and Mercon V but how do I clean the old stuff out of there? Picture.....
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SFS less than 2K miles, noticed coolant on garage floor, chked coolant bottle nearly MT. Dropped engine air flow control panel. Found fresh coolant and stains running dwn both metal tubes leading to trans cooler. This is the 3rd Hyundai vehicle in 15 yrs, first negative experience, off to the dealer.
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Today while I was working I walked back to my truck after finishing the job and saw a red fluid leaking from behind the front bumper, I crawled underneath and saw that it was leaking from somewhere between the plastic cover for the fan and the radiator but I couldn't find exactly where it was coming from, I drove 30 miles before I got to the job site with my ac on, and my ac was making a noise that seemed like a whirling noise but I kinda brushed it off as the condenser going bad or whatever. After I found my truck leaking I decided to drive 20 miles to the next job site but this time I left the ac off and nothing happened the temperature gauge didn't even go up, I checked underneath when I finished driving and there was no more coolant leaking from the radiator. I drove it an additional 50 miles before I got home and still no leaks. Could the bad ac system cause coolant to leak? I have a 2000 excursion 5.4L V8
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2001 F250- V10... Lower radiator hose has coolant leaking - Right now I cannot tell if its the hose or the radiator itself (hoping not) - I tried to take the clamp off and it broke - Any tricks to removing the hose? its on there pretty tight.... I guess if I don't want to save the hose I can rip it off with a pair of pliers but before I do that wasn't sure.
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On Friday am I noticed a 6" sized puddle on the garage floor. Coolant leak on the drivers side coming off the frame. Dropped it off at the dealer on Sunday and today the tech tells me it was in fact a radiator leak and the new one will be here wed. They hope to have it buttoned late Wednesday. I am assuming all will be covered under warranty.
I have 23k miles logged and had just got home from a 1300 mile run pulling about 18k worth of hay and trailer. Truck performed flawlessly. Averaged 11mpg for the trip. I am hoping this is the first and last radiator replacement I have to go thru.
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I have an '09 Accent, with 102,000 miles on it, it is in good shape, and current on all its maintenance, however, i am leaking coolant via the radiator cap, and don't know why. It has been replaced twice, once by me, and once at the dealership after a pressure check confirmed i was not leaking anywhere else, ie: into the engine.
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On my way home from work, after driving about 45 minutes, I stopped at the Post Office. On the way out I noticed that coolant was leaking. I was able to make it home without overheating. My guess was either the water pump or a hose.
This morning I physically checked the hoses and they seemed fine. I filled the radiator with water and started the van and let it run until it got hot. I watched to see if I could tell where the leak came from. I could not get it to leak, after 15 minutes I gave up. I know it was leaking yesterday, not only did I see green coolant, the radiator was low on coolant.
What should I do to further diagnose the problem?
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I've got a 93 ford 150 econo Van 310,000 miles. Steering volume ratchet shaft bused a couple of years ago. Horn worked then only the airbag lite would flash on and off. Got everything from the yard, steering wheel, air bag the whole thing. Replaced it and the air bag light stayed off and horn worked! About 6 months ago the airbag light again on & off then right after that the horn wouldn't work. However after a good rain and as I was turning mostly right sometimes left. The horn would just start blowing until I straighten the wheel and if someone was close by I would just wave. But the horn would still not work normally. it is finding a ground when I turn the wheel. I have no leak inside only happens in or after a rain sometimes. It rains a lot.
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The differential is howling like crazy on my 1993 E150 5.0 van, it has over 200k miles on it so I'm assuming the bearings need to be replaced! Before I tackle this major project is there any special tools I need or a special procedure I should use?
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I bought a 2011 GTI this past March, it has about 5700 miles on it. Last week I posted about my radiator leaking coolant and what I went through to get it fixed. I got the car back last saturday and everything was fine, up until tonight. I was pulling onto the highway (no one coming, luckily), and as I went to shift into 2nd, I heard a loud bang, almost like my car backfired, and then the CEL came on and my car went into limp mode. I immediately pulled over, but it was dark and I couldn't really see much (not sure what I was looking for anyways). I was about 3 miles from my house so I drove home cautiously, but as I was driving home, I smelled a faint burning odor.
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Recently I started leaking coolant on the driver side area to the right of the engine:
I am assuming I need to replace some part/tubing that has a leak in it, but I am not sure what any of these things are called. How to identify what leaking part here is?
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2007 5.4 F150. Is the radiator drain the square yellow nylon (?) fitting at the bottom right of the radiator? Does it screw out and the coolant come out the little spigot ? Would like to make sure before I get in there and destroy things....
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My father put my f150 into reverse he says he didn't gas it. It was 2-3 feet in between the cars and the hitch went into the bottom grill below the front license plate. Coolant is leaking from the left side between the radiator and the block. Now the trucks hitch didn't go far enough to hit the radiator, or anything else I can see. I have cleaned the coolant and am in the waiting process try to identify the location. I believe that it is oozing from the water pump ( most of the coolant is underneath it), on the other hand there is coolant also by the radiator just not as much. I have the ability to fix this just not the tools. My family is going to take it to the dealer ship I just do not want them to get finagled around.
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So I had a stuck caliper on the driver rear side. I pushed the piston back and checked everything to make sure all was in working order. After some though and reading about the calipers getting stuck which old brake lines, I decided to upgrade the line with the Russell stainless steal lines.
I got all the lines put in but I seem to have fluid leaking on the passenger side fitting which I can't seem to get to stop. I put the old line back in but it is still leaking. I am not sure what I need to do or check to get it to stop. It seems to be leaking from the thread area. I checked the fittings and they don't look cross threaded so I don't understand why it may be happening.
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So I rebuilt my transmission earlier this year and its been working great, but I've yet to install a better cooler on it. I do quite a bit of towing with it, most of which is my boat. I've searched a lot on the forum here but cant decide on how to set up a better trans cooler.
I want a cooler that's going to handle cooling my trans on steep hills and such, but I don't want to completely cover my a/c condenser (I really like cold a/c ).
I've considered adding a couple of the frame mount coolers in-line and keep the factory cooler, I'm just not sure how well it would work.
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