Ford - E150 :: 1993 - Horn Blows Won't Work Intermittently?
Sep 9, 2013
I've got a 93 ford 150 econo Van 310,000 miles. Steering volume ratchet shaft bused a couple of years ago. Horn worked then only the airbag lite would flash on and off. Got everything from the yard, steering wheel, air bag the whole thing. Replaced it and the air bag light stayed off and horn worked! About 6 months ago the airbag light again on & off then right after that the horn wouldn't work. However after a good rain and as I was turning mostly right sometimes left. The horn would just start blowing until I straighten the wheel and if someone was close by I would just wave. But the horn would still not work normally. it is finding a ground when I turn the wheel. I have no leak inside only happens in or after a rain sometimes. It rains a lot.
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I have a 93 Aerostar 4.0 and it is displaying the blinking airbag light (3-2) and the horn doesn't work and the cruise control failed. I believe it is the clockspring ...
QUESTION: Can the clockspring be repaired or must it be replaced. I do not have a schematic of the electrical components of the clockspring ...
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I need to replace the fan clutch on my 1993 Ford E150 Club Wagon 4.9L Chateau. The original part, YB466 has been replaced. The new ones are all too long and the fan will hit the radiator. The original is 2-3/8" long front to back, including the nut. The replacement ones available are 2-5/8" or longer. I have talked to our local machinist, and he says the new parts cannot be made shorter. The water pump shaft is not long enough to allow shortening. He says look for a shorter water pump.
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The differential is howling like crazy on my 1993 E150 5.0 van, it has over 200k miles on it so I'm assuming the bearings need to be replaced! Before I tackle this major project is there any special tools I need or a special procedure I should use?
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I decided to install a trans cooler since I was servicing the trans and got the pan dropped anyway. But when I cracked open the trans cooler connector(which is totally unnecessary and should be avoided completed), I noticed that I broke the trans cooler connector fitting to the radiator and now the coolant leaks badly from around the fitting. What are my options other than replacing the radiator? Would some liquid metal treatment do the magic? Or is there a way to remove and replace the fitting(I am not sure this would be possible since it looked like the fitting was welded to the radiator)?
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Every time that I hit the brakes, the headlights flash and the horn blows for about 30 seconds. I am guessing that it has something to do with the factory alarm? I do not have a key pad. It is a 1997 F-150.
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I have a 2007 F150 Lariat with a 5.4 L engine. Bought it 6 weeks ago from the original owner. Has 50,000 miles on it. He had a Ford command start installed when it was new, and received a new key FOB at that time. When I drive the vehicle, sometimes the horn will start blowing and the lights start flashing which to me, indicates the trucks security alarm is activated. The only way to make it stop, is to hit the unlock button on the key FOB. It also does it sometimes when it's not running and I open a door. Previous owner had same problem so he disconnected the horn!!?!
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Horn recently stopped working. I checked the fuse, noticed it was blown. I replaced with a new fuse. Pressed the horn and it had a very short sound and then blew the fuse. What could be causing this?
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Why do my wipers pop up about 2" each time the horn blows when the door is opened? They don't pop up if the car is running and I blow the horn myself. My local Chrysler service center has attempted to fix the problem twice without success. Once by replacing the door harness and then by replacing the multifunction switch. The problem is still there and my warranty is running out!
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When my gas light comes on during the day my horn blows every couple minutes at night time the headlights go from high-beam to low-beam every couple minutes. Also, my check engine light is on more than it is off
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Today im driving along in my 2000 X v-10 limited and had the AC blowing on high. All of a sudden it started to blow out the defroster vents, then back to the correct dash vents, then back and forth intermittently.....No vacuum leaks that I could find.. Is that controls what vent doors open to control air flow?
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So out of no where, my horn went out on my car. I checked my relay with a fuse tester and it tested fine. My horn works when I press my alarm button but it wont work when I hit the horn button. What can cause this and what needs to be replaced?
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Is there a fuse or some thing? Can I rig it?
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The other day I was checking out my parking aids (they kept saying something was behind me when there was nothing there) and the horn just started blowing by itself, constant on until I disconnected the batteries. Been a few days and just got back to working on it, checked the horn switch in the airbag and it is functioning fine. Hooked the batteries back up, no horn, but after a couple of minutes I start getting little honks out of it, then locked on again. Where I should go from here? Truck was parked, switch off, engine off today when I hooked the batteries up. Never started it or turned the key on.
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I have a 93 Ford Explorer, manual transmission. About a month ago it intermittently started running very rough. I does this wether the weather is rainy or not. The engine has done this when it just started up, cold, and when it's been fully warmed up. I have been able to drive it, but it has been quite a challenge. When running, there is a very noticeable noxious exhaust smell. The check engine light has come on some of the time. When the eec codes were checked it only revealed 522, the car wasn't in park or neutral when running the test.
I have tried clearing and rerunning this test several times, yet 522 still shows up. No other fault codes. Don't know how this would cause engine to perform so bad. The fuel tank has been near full when it happened so I believe the gas to be good/ no water. The engine has a lot of mileage on it, over 200K, so I'm not sure if something inside could be malfunctioning, but don't know how to check. The car will run for days very smoothly before this happens again. I have changed plugs, wires and the pcv valve and it still occurs. It's like the engine is hitting on one cylinder when it happens.
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My horn seems to be working intermittently (more often NOT working...).
When I press the steering wheel i hear a click, but that's it. I've checked the fuses already and nothing is blown. all the buttons on the steering wheel work consistently. Another data point that may be relevant is that i went in for the clock spring recall a couple months ago.
How to troubleshoot and find the cause?
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I have a 2002 f350 my horn went off in the middle of the night got up and unplugged the horn what is my problem. also, the cruise control won't work when it all happened
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Airbag light flashes on dash and then stays on. Cruise control and horn wont work. I cant find a blown fuse.
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Over the winter, the A/C in my '04 Mitsubishi Galant quit working. It wouldn't blow any cold air at all, but I didn't mind too much since it wasn't hot out. In preparation for a hot NC summer, I took my car to a dealership about a month and a half ago to have the A/C fixed. They replaced the condenser, and the car started blowing cold air, but it would only do so intermittently. Two weeks later, took the car back into the dealership for them to have a look, but it blew cold air during the entire time that the mechanic was looking at it. I specifically asked about the compressor, but he said that it seemed to be fine. Since then, I've been trying to figure out what causes the A/C to stop working.
I haven't been able to find an exact cause, but the A/C will typically blow cold air when the car is not moving or when I am braking. It is also more likely to work if it isn't hot outside (which isn't exactly useful). If I am on the highway, applying the gas, or if it is hot outside, it is much less likely to work. As I am driving, I can hear the A/C click on and off; for example, if I apply the brake, I will hear the A/C click on, and it will blow cold air briefly (around 30sec - 1min or so). To complicate things, recently the A/C has blown fog in addition to cold air. This has happened three times. I'm at a loss for what the issue is...
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I have a 2004 Gen II that blows the A/C(Htr) 10 amp fuse. The dealer changed the inverter and replaced the fuse with a 15 amps which masked the problem. I have looked at the items that this feeds and have eliminated the: inverter (Dealer knows very little, Scary), A/C Control assembly, heater water pump assembly. I thought that since the Heater water pump assembly runs intermittently it might be that. Or could it be the diode in the relay that controls it? I cannot seem to find where it is located..
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Two problems- disc light on instrument cluster stays on. Nothing wrong with disc. Horn sounds when starting car. I have to sequence lock/unlock several times, then start again. Horn sounds intermittently, when driving.
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