Honda - Cr-v :: 2000 - Coolant Dripping From Lower Radiator Hose
Jan 6, 2014
I own a Honda Crv 2000. I took the car for an oil change at a local oil change shop. They overfilled the oil. I went to the city and came back, and next day the underside of the car was oily and leaky. The car was dripping oil. I immediately siphoned out 300ml of extra oil from the car. After that the leaking stopped and it does not leak/drip anymore. At the same time I saw coolant dripping from the lower radiator hose (where it meets the radiator). I noticed when the fans come on it start dripping. But as of today the coolant dripping has stopped. I am thinking of changing the hose.
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I have the 2001 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 Liter engine (I think it's a 3.3, the largest anyway). I was having a drip and losing coolant at the lower right hand side of the radiator (driver's side). Thinking it was the radiator, I replaced it with a new one, along with the lower radiator hose (The upper had been replaced within the last year).
Much to my dismay something is still leaking and shows up on the bottom of the crossmember bar in which the radiator sits in. I'm thinking I did nothing to solve the problem. But what in the world would also be in the general area that would cause an anti-freeze leak? I noticed a couple other smaller radiator type devices, one probably has to do with the air conditioning and don't know about the other, probably a transmission cooler?
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2001 F250- V10... Lower radiator hose has coolant leaking - Right now I cannot tell if its the hose or the radiator itself (hoping not) - I tried to take the clamp off and it broke - Any tricks to removing the hose? its on there pretty tight.... I guess if I don't want to save the hose I can rip it off with a pair of pliers but before I do that wasn't sure.
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Just had to replace radiator at 38k on my 2012 SD. Now I have another leak at 41k. Looks like it's wherever the lower radiator hose leads. Kind of a weird junction. I don't think it's coming from above there, but not sure. It's the primary dgas bottle that was low. The radiator was covered under my ESP. We'll have to see what's up with this one. Been eying a denim blue SD at dealer, thinking this is going to talk me out of it though. Not especially happy right now.
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I'm trying to troubleshoot a leak on my 08' F250 with a 6.4 powerstroke. It's been dripping coolant when cold pretty aggressively. Once the truck heats up, the coolant leak seems to mostly go away.
Here's a picture of the drip, it's marked by a dart, so you can see the location from the top (second pic). The radiator house connection around the engine seems dry.
Pic from Top ....
What's hidden here that could be causing the leak?
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I have 98 passat V6 and the lover radiator hose is leaking at the connector between radiator and the hose. Do I need to change the whole hose or is there maybe an o-ring that should be changed? How hard is to remove the hose? Do I have to go to the dealer?
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Is it difficult to replace the lower radiator hose on a 5.4L? I'm mainly thinking about access to the connection at the water pump.
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I picked up a used 99 Passat with 79000 miles. I just changed the oil and found the pan pretty well sludged up - typical from what I read on the forum. I noticed the coolant looked pretty diluted - so I drained and filled with 50/50 mix. After starting I felt for the upper and lower hoses heating up and the lower one never did. I guess I should have tested this out before draining and refilling - also typical. Question is - is this a thermostat issue? My Haynes manual says if the top hose becomes hot the thermostat is operational. Heater has plenty of heat, temp gauge stays pegged at 190 degrees top dead center of the gauge.
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I did all the flushing, cap, thermostat, 50/50 antifreeze, etc, fixes but when I floor it going up an on ramp on an 85 degree day it will go into limp mode / fail safe mode. Bottom hose?
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I'm going to be replacing my lower radiator hose so figured might as well switch over to the extended life stuff going to probably go with the Delo ELC.. Supposedly it's good for 750k.
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Having problem with the lower radiator hose rubbing on the serpentine belt...
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My wifes 2002 gls has a coolant leak from the top radiator hose. I put a new hose on and two new clamps on the leaking end and it still leaks!! I have never seen anything like this and I am not sure how to stop it.
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I have a 2002 V6 Passat Wagon. I am hemorrhaging coolant out of my lower coolant pipe. I can reach it put my finger in a feel the coolant coming out as fast as I pour it in. I can't see any way to get at the pipe from the top and I can't see the hose that should be attached there from the top. I assume this means the front end will need to be jacked up and go at it from the bottom. Also note the intake and return from the heater in my car is mexi fixed and looped together (no heat).
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The inter cooler to throttle body hose and it seems to have coolant all over it.
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I have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4x4 four liter inline 6. have a coolant drip at bottom radiator hose, change hose. but still drip. Could water pump be leaking. and it running down on the bottom radiator hose.
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I just bought a used 09 yaris, 5 speed manual tranny. There seems to be a small coolant leak on the top hose coming from the radiator, the one that connects to a plastic flange or adapter and then go's to the engine block. The car does not get hot and it drive fine except it leaks at that spot. I try using a regular hose clamp and still leaked. Is the thermostat not opening up or is the water pump intermittent stopping? or something like that. Or maybe the hose itself is bad. Since this is a used car who knows what the previous owner did, I might change out the hose over the weekend and replace all the coolant to the correct Toyota long life system. to be on the safe side.
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I'm about to tear into a friends 2002 B2300 4 cyl. The lower hose that comes off of the coolant reservoir is leaking in the metal part of the line. Close to where it bolts to the block. At a glance, it looks like I have to pull the whole top of the motor apart to get it off since the line runs around behind the motor. Is there a trick to removing this coolant line without a lot of teardown? I'm not finding it at parts stores so I guess it's a stealership part.
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2004 4.6 V8 Trition ,two wheel drive, STX Pickup. By removing the bottom radiator hose, will that allow all engine coolant to be drained from engine? If not, about how much coolant will remain in the engine in terms of quarts or percentage of total vehicle coolant capacity?
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Recently I had a radiator hose split while traveling. The EOT got up to 250 degrees before I could pull over and stop the truck. I flushed the cooling system with water, replaced the thermostat, and added Ford Gold coolant as per the recommendations in the Tech folder. My oil temps are higher now than prior to this incident. Unloaded on a flat road my deltas are about 10 to 12 degrees @ 60 mph.
My water temp will stay around 190 to 195 degrees while my EOT have reached 212-215. I pulled a small utility trailer and saw a delta of 17 degrees this was at about 75 mph. Typically unloaded I would only see a delta of about 8 degrees and this was at 80mph. My question is do you think a EOT of 250 would burn the oil, I had Shell Rotella T5 5W40 in the engine. Would it be possible that the oil cooler is partially plugged from this temp?
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I have replaced a head gasket on my 2001 civic LX recently. I have drain the coolant and put it back on again. Now I have idle issues, the car starts fine with high RPM (because it is cold) about 5 min latter the RPM changes, it revs low and high (about 2000 rpm) when it should be idling normally. I have taken the radiator cap (before i start the engine) and run it a while with the cap off to purge any air pockets, no luck. Another thing I have realized that there is a pressure build up in the upper and lower radiator hoses when it is running with the radiator cap on. How to fix this problem?
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I have a 2000 F150 with 5.4 L motor. The last two trips I have had the top radiator hose come off while under heavy load (pulling a long hill) after 5 hours of driving. So far I have flushed the radiator, checked the thermostat, and refilled with G05 Gold and distilled water 60/40 ratio. I do not hear any gurgling in the heater core. Heater seems to work great.
The stock temp gauge shows it right in the middle range between Hot and cold, right before it blows the hose off. I have replaced top and bottom hoses and put new stainless steel clamps at all end except the top, where I am using the OEM clamp that came with the truck. I thought about replacing the top clamp as well but did not want to blow out my radiator, if in fact it is developing high pressure.
Do these clamps get weak with time? Should I use a vacuum attachment on the fill/overflow tank to remove all air before refilling?
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