Ford Excursion :: 2002 - HPOP Is Leaking A Bit From One Of The Lines
Sep 29, 2014
I bought a 2002 Limited EX, 164K on a 7.3 diesel, its been a California truck its whole life, but still has some "rust" on it... I'm sure it can mostly be wiped away with a rag and some solvent . I mostly bought this vehicle to tow my track car around (1993 Mazda RX7) and so my friends can be comfortable while I drag them all over to be my pit crew - the rear captains chairs are a sweet feature.
Unfortunately this is the only picture I have right now... At the pump...
First things to address were the EBPS and EBPS tube, replaced those today... And the HPOP is leaking a bit from one of the lines I think, I ordered some gaskets and whatnot from Riffraff and will address that next weekend.
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I believe my rear AC lines in my 2003 EB V10 X pooped the bed on me today and Ford wants 3K to fix. I'm wondering if I could fix it my self. The leak was a bright green color so I'm assuming it was 134 or what ever in in the AC. The leak is right behind the passenger side of the motor just a little lower than the head. The dealer wants to replace almost everything for 3k but they don't want to budge on just repairing the broken line.
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Ac is leaking where the 2 lines go into the condenser. I went to Ford and bought OEM o-rings thinking it would be an easy fix. HA! New o-rings were put in by a mom and pop garage. Still leaking. Guy said it wasn't, but with my uv light I could clearly see the dye. Went to a recommended guy. He took it apart, cleaned the hoses where the o-rings sit. They were kinda dirty from leakage and stuff so he cleaned them up with a wire brush and 2000 grit.
Recharged, and we both looked with his huge uv light. Bad condenser, drivers side lit up like a night light. Replaced the condenser with an aftermarket condenser. Recharged, STILL LEAKING from where the hoses go into the condenser. Vacuumed down the system... Removed hoses, checked o-ring fit. They are snug on the hoses and have some resistance when plunging the hoses back in. What gives? I'm 360.00 into this this week...
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Noticed Tranny Fluid under the Ex last week and after further inspection, it is definitely the lines rusted, by the end of the week it was leaking pretty good with the motor running. Picked up the lines from Ford and bought a 5 gal pail of MerconV from NAPA. Going to replace the tranny fluid after I replace the lines. 109k on the truck and never serviced the trans. Never had an issue with this truck, shifts nice and tight. Found Mark W's Fluid Changing procedure which looks pretty simple.
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2002 4.6 SC with towing package... Transmission cooling lines to radiator leaking. Replacing them? How long does it take, can it be done while working on the ground? Any tricks or problems to look out for?
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I did the extended seal kit and non-serviceable plug on my HPOP and now the CEL is on. It is throwing the below codes. The truck in all reality runs fine and even a little better on a cold start than before resealing, just the CEL is on.
P1280
P1209
P1282
P1212
P1211
I cleaned the IPR when it was out when I put new seals on it but could it go bad by just taking it apart? The ICP and IPR are definitely plugged in. The truck is all stock, no chips.
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A good friend of mine just bought a 2003 xlt with the 6.0 and has an oil leak at the HPOP cover as far as he can tell. Looking for a good write up that explains how to get to where we need to go. Also maybe a list of o-rings and gaskets that will be needed on the journey. Is there anything else that may need attention while we are in that deep. I have read about the SVT fitting but not sure what that is or where. The EGR has been deleted.
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I have a 7.3 and I think it's leaking oil out of the HPOP but I'm really not positive.
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Well my hpop is cracked and leaking alot I need to get home this sucks I must of tighted it too hard
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about to fix my leaking HPOP and step up to an Adrenaline. Looking at replacing the discharge fittings when I do and have a quick question. Dieselsite instructions say the oring seals it and to only run it down to where the fitting body touches the pump. Diesel orings instructions say the 680 locktite does the sealing and to torque to 25 ft/lbs.
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Pretty sure my rear plug is leaking on my HPOP. It has a nylon washer under it which is different than what I have seen on all the write ups. I bought the truck with 189k on it five years ago.
I attached a photo....
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My HPOP was leaking so I pulled it our last weekend along with the fuel bowl and put all new seals in. All my previous leaks are sealed but now this stupid fuel bowl is being a major PIA.
The return line coming off the FPR will not stop leaking! It was slowly dripping when I first replaced the bowl and I thought the leak was between the fuel bowl and FPR housing. I ordered new rings and put it back together.... still leaking.
I wrapped a towel around the fuel fitting and realized that is were the leak is actually coming from. I went to the parker store today and got 3 new 60VL5 sleeves. The first one tore while sling over the fuel line (I was using 2cycle oil as lubricate). The second one leaked even worse.
In a desperate attempt to stop the leak, I slid the sleeve onto the fuel line as far back as it would go. I inserted the fuel line into the bowl and then put a thin coat of rtv on the exposed fuel line. I slid the sleeve over the rtv and then put a light coat of the outside of the sleeve. I tightened the nut up and am waiting for things to dry before trying again.
Why is this fitting giving me such a hard time? I've pulled the FPR housing and it is not cracked so I don't know what the deal is.
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Blew a hole in the 3/16 inch line to the rear on the left frame rail, behind the gas tank. Lost all brake function.
Got the truck home and inspected. The line was rusted bad about 6 ft long from the connection at the rear hose to the axle, up to the rear seat area ( crew cab). From the drivers seat forward, the line looks very good. The line across the rear axle from left to right looks very good. I bought two 50 inch standard lines 3/16 inch. Started at the rear hose connection 6 inches behind the gas tank and ran forward to the rear seat area.
Cut about 32 inches of the other 51 inch line and connected and ran forward to below the front seat area. There is a metric connector at this point. I cut an inch in front of it to eliminate it. NAPA sells a high psi compression fitting ( steel , 10,000#) that you can connect two 3/16 inch lines together. I did that under the drivers foot area. I have done two different 2002 F150s in the last year due to this failure. Something to look into. Not nice to loose brakes in traffic.
If your worried about the steel compression fitting, don't. I have used these on several cars and trucks over the last 15 years. Make sure you get the STEEL high pressure compression fitting. Total line replaced on CREW cab, 51 + 32 inches. Pops right back into the original plastic clamps.... I might mention, that is where the failure was, under the plastic clamp at the rear end of the gas tank area.......... crud must collect on the clamp.
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I am experiencing leaking cooler lines at the turbo. I thought it was only the line coming from the side of the turbo, but it looks like it could be the one going into the top. Can I safely remove the line from the front of the engine without interfering with the other metal lines directly in front of it. See the pic. This is the front of the engine under the turbo.
Also, the fitting in the pictures is not leaking. Can I replace the metal line without replacing the threaded connector going into the engine or does it have to be replaced with the line? I already have parts BC3Z-6A968-C and BC3Z-9U469-A for the line coming out of the side. What is the part #s for the other line pictured?
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I've got the front of the excursion done with my spring swap finally and now it's onto the rear. How do I move these ac lines along the passenger side to get them out of the way from that shackle bolt? I see the brackets holding them but since they are all hard lines how many do I have to remove?
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I am going to be changing my brake lines in the rear and to the rear of my X. i ordered the rubber lines. what i would like to know is the part number for the steel axle tube line and the line that runs the from from front to back.. I don't know if it matters but when i looked up the left caliper line I had to get it for to 12/20/99...
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I'm 1/2 way through a flush and water pump replacement. Its going to get cold and I don't want to blow any heater lines. I have the pump off and the block drained (I also managed to get some coolant into the block - but not the rear heat).
I don't see an easy place at the front to disconnect the lines. I'd like to blow them out just to be safe. What is the best place to disco in the front or if I even need to - can I just disco 1 in the rear and then blow in both direction?
I fear that there may be some vent door closed that will prevent flow. I can't start the truck - I can turn the key on.
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Is it a do it yourself job to replace brake lines. Never done it before or even seen it done. Special tools required? Will the auto parts store know exactly what I need? Are these questions answering my question?(don't do it) ...
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So, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
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Next on my list of needed repairs is new brake lines. The ones running along the frame are rusted pretty bad. I had a 89 F-150 bust a line once and it got real interesting so I would like to change these before that happens.
I have searched and still not gotten a clear answer as to whether I need to get a scan tool and do something with the ABS pump. I would like to know if the scan tool is necessary.
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I have a transmission cooler attached to my transmission. The lines that connect it are leaking around the crimp fittings. I figured if i just cut the fittings off and used 3/8 fuel line, would i be ok. I am afraid that i might get some air into the lines and mess my transmission up...
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