Ford Excursion :: 2003 - Lights Not Turning Off After Replacing Back Hatch
Jun 17, 2014
I have a 2003 Excursion. I shut the back hatch the other day and the window completely shattered. I bought another one from the junk yard.
My husband replaced it and everything seems to fit right and it closes down and it looks nice. Problem is now the interior lights wont shut off at all.
Running board lights are on as well. We have had to un-hook the battery to keep it from running down. Is there a sensor or something that needs to be reset?
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Had my 2003 7.3X for a couple months now. Noticed the back hatch will not lock. Hatch will not lock when you push the lock button on the door or the remote.
The second issue is that my ignition key (the only one I got with car) does not turn the lock on the hatch.
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When the rear window was up, the interior lights stayed on. I couldn't find the valet switch to depress/turn them off. How can I turn off the interior lights while the back window is open? I have only had the Excursion for a month so I am still figuring it all out.
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What is the "type" of these dual filament lights and the proper way to access /change them? Do you pull off the lense from outside the vehicle or remove the inside trim at the top of the hatch and access from the inside??
Since only 1 filament is used can I simply reverse them to the used /non burned out filament or do the bulbs have pins on there sides that prevent that (like a 1157)??
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I may not be searching correctly...? How the back inside trim is removed from the hatch window. I know the handle has the two Torx screws does the trim pull out or are there clips? Don't want to break any plastic parts. I found how to fix the back lock. I found the back barn door trim removal.
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Okay here is the deal: My X has been leaking from the time that I purchased the thing almost 2 years ago, in the back intermittent at first and I have been trying to trace it. It's not the roof rack and not any hinges or goodies around the edge, top, door, trim, etc. So what is it! Well we finally got some rain here and I am pretty sure it's the actual glass seal!?!? What should I use to seal it If I pull all the nuts off the bolts does the glass pop out? I just don't want it to go "pop"
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I recently purchased a 2011 Ford Edge with the My-Touch control system. I am planning on taking it to music festivals where I "camp" in and around my vehicle. Some of the lights go on every time a door or hatch is opened. As I am in and out of the vehicle day and night, is there a way to disable this feature?. I ask mostly because of lights bothering me and others, but am a little concerned about battery drain. It could be up to a week without starting or driving. I do turn the headlights off, but others (inside and out) come on.
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I have a 2003 ford explorer and the back hatch window exploded on my son when he closed it. Glass shattered everywhere even on him. I was told there was a recall on this and ford has stated they were replaced but previous owner says they didn't have replaced. How do I know the difference in the recall hinges and new ones? If the hinges were replaced why would the window shatter like this?
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Ok, I'm stumped... I've pulled the housing out for the 2nd row dome/reading light and I'm trying to replace the bulb...
How in the hell do you separate the trim from the housing to replace the freakin' bulb?
I've almost broken the thing in half trying to get access to the bulb... My FSM doesn't give any indication how to separate the housing just that the bulb needs replaced...
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Puppy chewed them up. Puppy has grown so I know it's time to replace them however they are discontinued. Some grey ones are available but I'd like to stick with OE colors if possible. Any leads, prefer new if possible
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What would cause the running lights to not turn off? The door ajar light is not lighting up so would it be safe to assume that it isn't a door ajar problem? The interior lights are on as well but I have already done the interior light switch mod and changed them to LEDS so my battery draw will be a lot less. The running board lights do turn off after about 45 minutes though.
My overhead console backlights do not turn on and the rearview mirror isn't lit either since last week but I do not know if the issues are related. The Lie O meter still works fine though. What fuse it is? I would like to pull it till I get this resolved.
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My reverse lights and back up alarm will not engage unless i hold up on the shifter while in reverse the only thing i found was a adjuster for the indicator....
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Outside backup sensors both went out on my03' Excursion, but the inside ones are still working.
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I need to replace these as they are weakening. Can I get replacements at my FLAPS or are they a Toyota-only item? I'm asking because on another vehicle, I could not get the strut from a FLAPS due to the length not being a standard length with the proper connectors.
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I've got a 2003 F150 4x4 supercrew that's got a 9.75" rear end with 3.73 gears. I just replaced clutch packs and spider gear set 2 weeks ago. The last day or two I have noticed that when I make sharp turns that it get a whining like spinning noise. It sounds to me like the spider gears are spinning. It only does it when making sharp turns. There is no noise going down the highway or normal driver. I have noticed at times I get a little shutter when I go to take off or back up. Kinda feels like a brake is hanging. I put friction modifier in when I did the clutch packs and everything. Maybe not enough?
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What can I replace my fog light bulbs with that are a little stronger than factory? I don't want to melt the housings and am thinking about amber bulbs. The stock replacements are hardly noticeable when on. It's a '03 W8.
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I have a 94 ford explorer and the back hatch leaks every time it pours rain. I noticed on the drivers side that there is a gap on the side of the hatch. Is there a way to adjust the hatch? The other side is fine.
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Does the rear hatch come from the factory with a different key than the ignition? My key will not open the rear hatch lock, it doesn't even go in the whole way.
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So I hooked up to the camper on Friday, threw some gear in the back off the Ex and hit the road. 4 hours and a couple hundred miles later I set up the camper and tried to pop the rear hatch. It's a no-go. It appears that the passenger side latch is releasing but the drivers side is not. My tool selection is limited since I'm on the road, any tricks to get the hatch open? Probably just deal with it till I get home since I don't want the reverse problem and not be able to get it latched again.
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Ok, rear latch handle, the black trim around it?
My idea was to wet sand it in place and repaint it. Does that sound like a good idea?
What kind of paint / clear coat to use on her?
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Have any of you tried to cut an access hatch in the rear of your truck to get to the fuel pump without dropping the tank? Am I way off? can it even be done? My fuel pump took a dump with about a quarter of a tank. I'm trying to find a work around.
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