Ford Excursion :: 2003 - Won't Start But Strong Crank - Fuel Pump?
Jan 12, 2016
I own a 2003 Limited with the 6.8 V10. I drove the truck on Sunday and all appeared to be fine, gas gauge was setting just under a half tank. When I went to start it yesterday, it would not start. Strong crank, no start. I checked my fuse and it was fine. Fast forward to this morning, since I had kind of depleted the battery with attempting to start, I put my little jump start pack on it and gave it a whirl. Truck started fine but the gas gauge was sitting on empty. I had five gallons of gas in the garage so I added that to the tank then drove to the local gas station to add more fuel. I put another 10 gallons in the tank so it should have roughly 16 or 17 gallons in the tank. Gauge shows 3/4 tank but miles to empty is right around 175 miles which would seem right with 17 gallons in the tank. I suspect the fuel pump. I don't really want to spend $500 on the Motorcraft unit but was wondering if the group believes the Delphi or the Bosch units are quality replacement parts?
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Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
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I just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
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I have an 04 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 Flex Fuel. There has been loss of power to fuel pump. Relay and fuse both good, replaced the inertia switch...still nothing. Could a FPDM (fuel pump driver module) have anything to do with this issue? Or what should I check next? I am definitely at a loss as to what the issue could be! I know it is fuel related because I used starting fluid and it started right up and run for just a few seconds, so that should rule out ignition I think.
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Sometimes after running my 94 Limited, it doesn't want to start - it does crank - like it's not getting fuel. I have found the work around and want to know if it would be fixed by replacing the fuel pump relay.
The symptom is just after starting, it starts to run poorly, and then dies out, then will not start at all. I use to keep trying to start it for 20-40 minutes and suddenly it seemed to work.
It seems the work around is to turn the key to on for about 5 seconds and then turn it off - then it starts and runs as good as ever.
So, is this a symptom of a bad relay? I thought I'd start there because of the cost of the relay is fairly cheap. 1994 Explorer Limited 4x4?
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Before I left on Spring Break last week, truck wouldn't start. It was a Saturday morning, so I had it towed to the only open shop in town. He said the fuel pump was going out. He got it started maximizing the fuel pressure with his scan tool.
The unusual thing is I replaced the fuel pump (I have a V-10) earlier this year with a Motorcraft Pump from Amazon. I also replaced the fuel filter about 60,000 miles ago.
Does this sound right? I have never heard of turning up the pump with a scan tool.
It did fine over Spring Break, but is in my driveway right now refusing to start. I can't believe the fuel pump went out that quickly.
Does it sound like the fuel pump?
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Just replaced fuel pump and now it turns over but won't crank. I have checked the fuel rail. Pressure is fine. Checked coil pack I'm getting spark. Still won't crank. Checked inertia switch it wasn't tripped. What next? 2003 Ranger edge...
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As in a previous post, i have been having issues with my truck starting then immediately dieing if i dont keep my foot on the gas.
Ive learned how to drive with 2 feet because of it, but I'm afraid i might be doing some type of damage since it keeps dieing and I have to keep starting it.
Once i get going for about 10-15 minutes its fine but its happening every time i start the truck.
Before it starts running correctly, it only idles around 400 rpm.
I think its the fuel pump, since my mechanic put a code scanner on there and it didn't throw any codes, he thinks it might be the fuel pump.
My question is, should i go with a ford pump from the dealer or are the ones sold from discount/o'reilly/napa just as good?
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vue would crank, not start. 5 min later it started. done this 3 times in 1 month. changed original fuel filter. am leaning towards fuel. vs spark. no codes. I see pump assy's for $175. or a pump alone for $30. if I remove tank and pump assy, would there be any issue with changing pump alone? not paying shop so its my effort the last gm pump assy I did had a working pump but corrosion on leads to pump inside tank. I replaced assy because I had already bought assy.
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1999 Jetta 2.0L manual trans
One day out of the blue the car would not crank or start. Checked and found that fuse #14 was blown and would blow the instant another fuse was inserted. Checked all the typical locations for wiring issues usually associated with the comfort module because it had all the symptoms of a faulty module (the power windows did not work and the fuel pump didn't pressurize the system when the driver door was opened, the alarm didn't set, automatic door locks also inoperable).
I checked the dome light, trunk hinges, rubber boot between doors and body and found nothing. Put a jumper wire into the neutral start relay and was able to crank the car. I then replaced clutch safety switch, neutral start relay and installed new (junkyard) comfort module and the car cranked up, started and everything was working normally again...for about 3 weeks. Then it did the exact same thing again. Fuse #14 was blown again and would blow the new fuse as soon as it touched the terminals in the fuse box.
I reinstalled the jumper wire in the start relay in order to be able to drive the car for the last week, and then last night out of the blue the car would crank, but not start. I turned the engine over several times and could hear the fuel pump pumping and even smell fuel, but no start. 3-5 minutes later after random tries to start, the car stumbles to life as if it wasn't getting fuel, and then drove 10 miles home with no issues. I returned the 'faulty' comfort module Monday and got another one but haven't installed it yet because I fear the same thing happening with this one as the other one.
Last night after I got the car home, I plugged in the comfort module and everything worked like it was supposed to. Can a faulty fuel pump damage the control module? I'm trying to get to the bottom of this and fix the problem and not the symptoms so I'm looking into anything that could potentially cause the problem.
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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I know this has been an issue for awhile and many may know about it but many probably don't. The issue is dirt and salt debri etc get packed behind the Fuel pump driver module rot it out and without warning you have a crank no start or worse it dies going down the road then you and the family are stranded or worse while towing on a trip. I made a video on how it happens and how to fix it with the solution Ford came up with. It is worth checking even if you don't seem to be having any issues yet......
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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1996 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 L engine. When the outside temp is a good range (50 degrees F & above) there is no problem starting. But when it gets below 40 deg. F and really chilly outside temp, I still have strong battery power, but when I switch on the ignition, I don't hear the normal fuel pump activation swirl sound and does not crank - simply silent click. Then I can wait when the outside temp improves and cranks up no problem.
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On a recent long drive home through some very hot weather, I noticed a strong smell of gas at the back of the truck. Now, I've caught a whiff of gas before the trip but it was always faint. Figured it was some gas that dripped on fill up.
At a rest area, I go and look around see no leaks and finally check the fuel cap. Lots of pressure trapped. I ended up leaving the cap off the rest of the run home. Can't find a cause.
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My car is almost turning on. It goes all the way but then just doesn't start. The fuel pump is working, can hear it. We checked for spark and there is. we sprayed that carburetor or whatever it is in the air intake thing too and it still didn't start. My buddy is saying that it has to be a sensor. Either O2 or crankshaft something sensor.
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I have a 2001 Excursion 7.3 Diesel that is having a starting issue. Have replaced the batteries, has new glow plugs, common failing cam position sensor replaced once already. It runs great when it starts, no codes. It will crank, but not turn over at random times. Will do this for 3 or 4 tries...charge the batteries, go back later to start and it will on the second try. Turn it off, try again..and back to cranking, but not starting. Not fun having to worry about being stranded somewhere. Absolutely desperate at this point.
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How do you test the fuel pump regulator, the truck wont start. I tested the schrader valve and it does have pressure but didn't seem like much. (need a gauge) I replaced fuel pump a few years ago so was wondering about the regulator. Is there a test procedure?
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Drove for 25 miles. Park, try to restart to park truck at other place. Truck start but very rough. Did drive for 20 yards and truck stop. Try to restart no way. I think I do not hear fuel pump when I turn key and gas pedal fill completely empty, no any force to move it. Should I assume fuel pump or should check some sensors first? I have P0420 for a few weeks, not source of this problem. Drove truck before with P0420 for years. No other code. Do we have PATS in keys? My truck is f250 99 LD. My pickup have PATS. How to check it?
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1/4 tank just kept cranking. Added some diesel and started right up thought it was bad fuel gauge. Went about a mile and shut down just off. coasted went got more diesel but this time cranked but no start. anti theft light was flashing too.
Towed home started right up after tow... Starting now... Tomorrow was going to change the fuel filter....
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1999 4.6L won't start after sitting a month. Ran fine before, now won't start. Cranks fine. Cannot hear fuel pump turn on when key is turned. Fuel pump fuse is good.
Fuel pump relay clicks a few times when key is turned. Is this normal? I am hoping it is the relay and not the pump. What should I check next? The wires at the pump? What should they read?
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