Changing 3rd brake light to an led? Im doing the led swap on all the exterior lighting but I can't seem to find a red 3rd brake light. Using the f250 3rd brake light? Is it a direct swap?
View 14 RepliesWell I've got 54K on the Ex and we'll be heading out for what will likely be our last long towing trip through some pretty serious terrain. I've got Hawk LTS pads on the front and those are doing really well but I wanted to change out my rear pads...upon closer inspection I still had about 1/3 of the pads left...but since I had torn everything apart...I installed the new pads so here's some pictures and a little write up as I go.
First jack up the rear of the Ex and make sure you support it with jack stands for safety.
Next remove the wheels and here's what you got
What you are looking for are 4 bolts on the back side. There are 2 caliper mounting bolts and 2 slide bolts. Torque values for the caliper mounting bolts are 166 ft-lbs and for the slide bolts 42 ft-lbs. I believe the caliper mounting bolt is an 18mm and the slide bolt is a 12 or 13mm (sorry I can't remember right now). But here's what you will be looking for...notice I'm reaching behind the rotor to take this picture outwards...
You will want to LOOSEN the caliper mounting bolts FIRST but DO NOT REMOVE them yet...then loosen the slide bolts...once both are loose...remove the caliper mounting bolts and SUPPORT the caliper...do NOT let it hang by the hose.
Here's a close up of my old pads...you can see there's still plenty of meat...but I was here and it don't take long to change them...
Remove the slide bolts and then separate the slide from the caliper
Next you will need to remove the slide pins from their holes...CAREFULLY grip the top of the rubber boot and slide if off of the pin as you are pulling hte pin up and out. Work with one slide pin at a time to not confuse them...one has a NOTCH and that will go on top the of the caliper...but if you work one at a time...there's no confusion. Pull out the slide pin and clean it off...you will need some high temperature brake grease to LIGHTLY lube up the pins before reinserting them. IF the pins are STUCK (mine weren't but I've heard they can be...) you may need to apply a little heat to try and break them free. Inspect the boots to make sure they aren't cracked or dry rotted and once you apply a THIN layer of grease...reinsert them into the hole and slip the boot back over the ridges. It will be obvious for the orientation when you reinstall the slide onto the caliper...basically the "flat" edge goes against the caliper and the "round" or "notch" sticks out the end...
At this point you will need to "press" the caliper pistons back into the caliper...there are a number of ways to do this...you can get a caliper tool from Autozone (they give it to you for free you just leave a deposit on your credit card so you bring it back!)...or you can do what I do...use a big C-clamp and I use my old brake pads to press against...compress the pistons back into the caliper...BUT REMEMBER TO LOOSEN YOUR MASTER CYLINDER CAP FIRST...when you compress your piston...the fluid in the lines gets forced back into the master cylinder...if you don't open the lid...pressure could be built up...
Here's the new pads installed and the slide bolts barely engaged to hold the slide to the caliper...Do not tighten these bolts until you have reinstalled the caliper onto the mounting brackets and snugged down the caliper mounting bolts.
Here's a view looking DOWN from above with the slide bolts AND mounting bolts engaged but NOT tightened yet.
Now make sure you torque everything up on this side and move to the other side and repeat the steps.
Once you finish the second side make sure you tighten your master cylinder cap.
At this point I also rotated my tires...but if you aren't doing that...simply return your tires to the Ex and torque your lug nuts and you are done.
I can typically change brake pads in about 30-45 minutes...they aren't that hard at all.
Next step...start the truck and pump the brakes to return brake pressure...then take the truck for a drive.
It is important to also "bed in your pads"...this involves a number of 30mph to 5mph HARD STOPS to heat up the pads and rotors and allow for a transfer of brake pad material to the rotors...you'll smell "hot brakes" when you have done it enough...typically about 6-8 hard stops. Then let the truck cool down without your foot on the brakes.
I didn't mess with the parking brake while I was back there because I had tested it just prior to my starting and it is holding nicely...I didn't feel like messing with it incase it is all rusted and fell apart on me.
This may be my only chance to do a step-by-step ...
Tools Required : Fingers (preferably attached to hands)
Step One : Check diver side floorboard for cleanliness (people are going to see it in the pics)
Don't worry about passenger side. There will be no pics of it.
Step Two (fingers required for steps two through seven and ten) : Vacuum driver floorboard since there will be pictures made of it.
Step Three : Remove old, worn out brake pedal cover.
Step Four : Remove aftermarket brake pedal cover from ridiculously oversized Amazon box that's still in the passenger side floorboard.
Step Five : Take a picture of the old and new covers together to make fun of the old one.
Step Six : Install new brake pedal cover.
Step Seven : Remove new brake pedal cover and re-install right side up..
About two years ago I sold my 1994 Aero (transmission was going, and other stuff) and bought a 1997 that was in much better shape. But one flaw it has is that it was used somewhere with high corrosion, so a lot of stuff is stuck or rusty. I haven't changed the rear bulbs since I got it, but this week, 2 out of three bulbs went. Actually, I only noticed the 2nd one because the blinker went too, and started blinking fast. The 3rd Brake light on top might have been out a while already.
Anyway, to my frustration, I cannot open the 3rd Brake Light to change the bulbs. Even after I removed the 2 screws, the lens won't budge. I tried gentle prying, but I can hear the plastic starting to crack. I figure there are 2 possibilities.
a) It somehow got fused to the gasket over time. or
b) It was crazy-glued shut by some insane maniac (a long-shot?). In which case I can try Acetone.
For starters, once the screws are removed, does just the red lens come out, or does the black frame around it come out with it? I tried prying on both, but one of them is surely wrong. Worst case scenario is that I break it, and have to glue it back on or get another one from a junk yard. But that is not good... Meanwhile I am living ok with just 2 brake lights.
I have checked the brake fluid and recycled the emergency brake pedal and the red light in the instrument cluster won't go out. Is it possible that the problem make be the contact switch right above the emergency brake pedal? I have pushed on the switch and the light doesn't go out?
View 5 RepliesI noticed this morning that the brake light on the dash did not go out. I cycled the e-brake, checked the fluids. The fluid level is fine and I reached up and pushed in the contact switch for the e-brake and the light still didnt go out.
Driving it - no issues with braking. I know on some older vehicles, there's a proportional valve that gets stuck and can be cleaned. I'm not very familiar with this and Im not sure if it even applies to this model.
I did have the flex brake lines changed on the front because the right front was leaking and thought might as well do both.
2000 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 ....
So my 2000 Ex started showing the parking brake light as if the parking brake was on...however it is not. How, or what do I need to do to fix it?
View 14 RepliesI've been having a problem lately where I'm driving down the road and the brake light comes on and starts binging. I stop push the parking brake and release it a few times, then the light goes out and I'm on my way. Sometimes when I first release it the light doesn't extinguish and sometimes it is never on. I'm guessing there is a switch somewhere for the parking brake that isn't working so great. Is it around the pedal or somewhere in the brakes themselves? Is this a typical problem?
View 14 RepliesIs the Excursion 3rd brake light from the F250/350 pickups like the rest of the truck... Or is it from an E-Series van like the tail lights?
In either case, is there a unit that has both the brake light and a bed/cargo area light? My rear window is tinted and I'd like to put a little light up high while I'm backing up... Just a little.
I really don't want to drill a bunch of holes for auxillary lighting, especially up high.
I have a 2000 toyota echo which just had the 3rd brake light burn out.*'m having trouble getting light fixture out to change bulb.
View 2 Replies2000 Excursion 2WD 6.8L V-10. Dashboard brake light has come on and is staying on. Fluid is up in reservoir visual on lines and calipers appear in standard nick. Bad brake light switch?
View 2 RepliesI had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
View 6 Replies2003 X limited, 2wd 6.0L
Last week wife's right rear turn signal/brake light stopped working. The left one flashes normally. The right tail light works fine which is a different bulb. I tried changing bulbs (didn't work).....tried a new socket with new and old bulb (didn't work). Could it be a relay? Or not relay as they would be both out (left and right)?
I looked at my trailering wiring plug down by bumper and the white wire with green stripe looks split a little towards the end. Could it be a bad ground or short in that wire? Would the trailering wiring have anything to do with it? I was going to try to replace the relay if I could find it, what is the part number for it.
Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
View 11 RepliesDo you change when you change your oil, or at what interval? How often to change fuel filter?
View 14 RepliesAbout a month ago I changed the plugs on my EX to see if I might pick up a few tenths on my mpg. There was no real issue, but I wasn't sure when they were done last. I used Autolite platinum's(AP103). Since I changed them The truck has a hard miss during acceleration. It feels like it is missing on multiple cylinders. It is most noticeable below 2000 RPMS. During hard acceleration it almost clears out, but the the truck feels like a pig.
There is also a miss at idle, but it goes away if the truck is in park, or neutral. Thinking that it may be my choice of plugs I went back last week and replaced them again with motorcrafts. Still having the same issue. Have scanned the truck with both the Torque app, and an sct scanner and its not throwing any codes. I'm at a loss. In the last year I have replaced the fuel pump, and the filter so I'm ruling those out.
Just changed my oil on my X since I just bought it. I put 6 qts in it but now it shakes at idle which it wasn't doing before. It seems like the oil may be a little high but I want to make sure before I drain any out. Also while I was under there I found that the drivers ball joints were replaced but not passenger side. I also found that I have 4.30 gears according to the tag so that's good. I also found that I'm missing a boot or something on rear driveshaft so not sure if something is dry and contributing to my highway shake separate from my idling and acceleration shake. I just put a matching set of dura grapplers on there which worked a lot as the 4 tires on there were all different and worn differently too. Also it seems someone replaced all but 2 cops
View 14 RepliesOk, I've read about the blower motor resistor, and everyone says you should have HIGH speed on the fan.
2002 Excursion with digital display.
I turn the truck on, then turn on the blower. A small puff of air comes out then shuts off completely. I can hear the direction doors opening when i change between foot and face A/C.
Is this the blower resistor that needs changing?
My 05 Powerstroke X has a coolant filter installed by the previous owner.
I have no directions for the kit. To change the filter is it as simple as close the valves and spin off the filter and put a new one on?
Any need to bleed the system?
I ordered a new factory steering wheel to replace mine, which is starting to get nasty. I know how to change the steering wheel but have never done it on one with an air bag. Is this a dealer only thing? What is the procedure?
View 11 RepliesI decided to change out my alternator to a high output. After researching I've decided to go with a DC Power...I'm planning more lights and a power inverter. Any recommendation on which one? I don't care what it cost just don't want to over do it, can too many amps hurt anything? Also, on my previous EX I did the big 3 upgrade. Is it the same on a 2 battery setup?
View 14 Replies