Very cold here in central NY today! Started the beast up this morning (always keep the block heater plugged in) let it warm up got in it and there is a buzzing sound coming from the interior rear somewhere. drove it around got it nice and warmed up but it wouldn't stop even after I turned it off. You cannot hear it from the outside definitely in the back someplace.
View 10 RepliesI have been having trouble w my 04 I checked all fuses all relays all dash lights work, no buzzing on injectors when key turned on. I checked push pull plug for starter it turns over with direct to battery but still does not start. New computer on fender.
View 2 Replies2003 camry 2.4 ... This is what is happening, cooling fans will not come on except when the AC is turned on and they will stop working when the AC is turned off, otherwise the car will over heat.
This is what I have done...Replaced the fans (because the radiator fan was bad, after hooking them up directly to the battery). I checked all the grounds, including the one under the intake, checked the fuses, checked relays using 12vots to the relay and used a ohm meter to see if it made contact when activated, on the three fan relays. Replaced and tested the new radiator sensor using a pot of water on the cooking stove with a cooking temperature gauge and ohm meter. It tested ok.
Unplug the radiator sensor while the car is running, the fans will come on, but go off as soon as it is plug back in, even when the motor is over heating. Also replaced the thermostat.
What can I do next, before I burn the motor up trying to fix it? Motor just started running rough. Just now pulled up a code of the number three cylinder miss firing
I am just over a week and 500 miles into owning my gti, and so far it has been overwhelmingly positive. That being said, I have had a couple of minor issues. Today I went for a drive and at some point I turned the stereo volume off and noticed a buzzing noise. After playing around with things I was able to determine the buzzing was happening only when the fan was turned on. It was there at all speeds and got a little louder with each fan speed increase. It's not really that loud, but the fan in my Matrix had no noise except the woosh of the air. Just curious if maybe it is a difference that is common in the gti? I don't want to go rushing to the dealer unless it's something that really needs to be looked at
View 2 RepliesOn our 2008 (26,000 miles), I've started to notice a "buzzing" noise (best way to describe it) from under the hood when the air conditioner is first turned on. Never noticed it before, but that doesn't mean it wasn't there.
If I drive the car with the ac on, then park the car for 30 minutes or so, it seems to not occur when restarting the car and the ac. A little vague, I know. Sound normal to you?
I have a 2000 V10 4wd. I'm going to list what happened in time order to best describe this problem. Sometimes when key is off there is a clicking from under the brake proportioning valve and sometimes a 2 second long buzz. When this happens, the A/C blower motor can run with key out also. If mistakenly left on over night it kills the battery.
I also notice that sometimes while driving my airbag light comes on randomly and sometimes it dings with doors closed. Also a few weeks ago the overdrive light starts blinking every few days. A few weeks later it wont start. No crank. So I put in new starter because mine was looking pretty crusty. Still no crank, but if I jump connection on inner fender solenoid/relay, then it starts fine.
Next day I put in a new solenoid/relay on passenger inner fender. Cranks fine and starts fine for the whole day until it randomly begins cranking by it self. With no key in. It did this several times even after re-checking everything and cycling key switch to check for bad connection there. The trans starts shifting hard, like the line pressure increased and sometimes it growls a little when it shifts into 4th
I then figured it was the Digital Trans Range Sensor which only allows start signal to go from key switch to the inner fender solenoid/relay if the trans is in park or neutral. I tested the DTRS and it seems to be working fine. It only has power at the solenoid if its in park or neutral on the tan/red wire, but the wht/pnk wire has power even when not cranking.
Being I couldn't figure out why it had power, I cut the red/lt blu wire at the ignition harness and ran a wire from the key switch side to the solenoid. Cranks and starts fine for 2 days and no mystery cranking either. Then after my wife had it all day acting fine I go to leave work that night in the rain after working a 14 hour day..... no crank. I noticed the "THEFT" light blinking but I've noticed that before and never had an issue starting.
When I came back to work in the morning it cranked and started fine 3 or 4 times then crank but no start again. I reconnected the crank wire back to factory thinking I bypassed something necessary. No change. Still acting randomly. I just ordered a VSS for the rear axle and a new DTRS for the trans. Gonna put these in today and test. Next will be a key switch since I'm having things work with key not on and I have 8volts on my grey/yell Accessory wire with key off.
I found a relay that clicks when inserted in it's socket even if key off. Its located driver side by Firewall by the Brake Booster. It has a tan/red wire(same as activation wire on inner fender solenoid but doesn't effect starting.
I have a schematic of starting system but I can't post pics because new acct here. The starter wire is red/blue at Key Switch then wht/pink after Central Junction Box, then dk blu/org after CPPJ clutch pedal position jumper(mine is auto trans. thats why is has factory jumper) but then turns to wht/pink before the DTRS then tan/red out of DTRS and at solenoid(I'm not sure it goes direct from DTRS to solenoid but color stays). As mentioned earlier, the white/pink wire has power but it shouldn't unless cranking, so its either getting it from the CJB or from where it changes from dk blu/org to wht/pink. Is there anything between the CJB and the DTRS? If nothing then why does color of wire change, and what could be giving the wire power?
Just as a note, in case it matters....my interior lights don't come on when door is opened but when it is open it dings like the key is in even when its not.
Bought the car used a few months ago with a little less than 72k miles. At 72k miles, I replaced all brake pads. Car now has 75k miles on it. Wife just got back from a 1k mile road trip with it.
I took it for a little ride, and noticed this problem about 3 times, it doesn't happen every time. There is no vibration or anything when slowing down and stopping. But, a few times, when the car was at, or almost at a complete stop, the brake pedal would feel like it was buzzing a little bit, and I could hear a springy sound. I tried to reproduce it with hard braking, but couldn't. Seemed to only happen with slow, gradual breaking, and when the car was just about at a complete stop. Brake fluid is full. No lights on dash. Asked my wife if she slammed breaks at all, or had any problems, she said no. Then she said she experienced what I did once, when she was at a rest area, stopped
The only thing I can think to compare it to is how the brake pedal feels and sounds if you lock up your brakes, and the ABS is doing its thing....which I haven't ever done with this car...
Is it possible to turn off the backup sensors on my X ?
When I am towing these things drive me nuts!
2000 Ford Excursion - ac keeps running after the car is turned off and the key is removed. Air is actually coming out the vents!!! My wife can turn the ac off with the console switch. Nothing else is running
View 3 RepliesYesterday driving home the heat/AC turned on full bore by itself and would only blow warm air. It will turn off. The rear control works correctly but the front will not blow cool air.
View 12 RepliesStarted having trouble with my Excursion 6.0 Diesel stalling after being in tow/hauling a 22' boat. That issue has gone away buy now I start it and run for 20 minutes, turn it off and try to start it again and all it does is turn over. If I let is sit for about 8hrs it will start again. What is going on?
View 1 RepliesSo as of last night my radio is not cooperating. I had the battery disconnected due to other work on the Ex and now I am having radio problems. When the key is turned the radio "buzzes", from the unit itself, not the speakers. It seems as though as soon as power is applied it is trying to eject a disc but no buttons are pressed. It lasts about 15 seconds and then stops. I also have CD error showing on the display. I have read the multitude of issues with the factory head unit but hoping I can fix it, maybe CD is just stuck?
View 8 RepliesIf we have the air on a medium or high setting (A/C or just vent air) and coming out of the middle vents (at your face in other words), then turn the car off with the fan speed on that medium to high setting, then turn the car on later, the air comes out of the defroster (windshield) instead, even though the middle (face) setting is selected.
I have to turn the air fan speed right down to the lowest setting, then the air switches to the vents (face), and I can then turn the fan speed back up again. Its like it has a weak flap or something in the dash that diverts the air around. Car is an 03 6.0l limited with the "climate control" (the buttons and digital display).
Had the Ex (2000 Limited V10 134K) about a month now, doing some reading in the FTE, saw the thread about wire chaffing in the steering column related to the gear shift selector and overdrive. Well, everything else has been chaffed on this truck so far I figured I better look at that too. They are chaffed right at the bottom of the base of the selector, not much wire to work with, might just replace.
I put everything back together and no issues. The next morning, I drove it and no issues until at work, put it in reverse (to park next to the bosses pretty new red Titan, picked that up from You Might Drive and Ex If) and the starter engaged. Got it parked, starter playing with switches for it to repeat, found that with the keys in my hand and turning on the headlight switch on (park or headlight position) the engine would start turning over, turn the key on and the headlights on and the EX starts, started stayed engaged until headlights are turned back off. Reverse only engaged the starter when the engine was running, when not running neutral safety switch kicked in telling me it works.
Searches had me reading in other in another place that there are wires that go from the headlight switch to the steering column specifically heavier guage blue wire with red or pink stripe "I think".
So last night I took the column covers back off and started chasing wires. As I was moving wires looking for the short I kept turning the light switch on and off as I wanted to know if and when I found the short. Evidently, I found it because the headlight switch and reverse stopped engaging the starter. I never did find the actual short. So the chipmunk has been chased from my wood pile but for how long?
I left everything in the column until the problem went away so to speak. I took the turn signal selector out inspected both connectors and wires and went about 6 inches back into the wiring harness, I found nothing, the turn signal selector had no impact on the started engaging.
I got a check eng light and read the codes. Cam sensor, misfire 5 & 8. Replaced cam sensor. Got light twice more. Cam sensor. Cleared codes, now no light but, I lost bottom & mid range HP at a steady decline. Run like a scalded dog on top end. Replaced fuel filter on frame rail & air filter. No cure. Noticed dash dim when headlights turned on. Pulled pos battery cable engine died. Replaced alt old one tested good. Drove to parking spot no power damn near couldn't pull it self. Turned off wouldn't start. Before I turned off it would rev up perfect just no power to move. Had a camed up sound at an idle like a slight miss. No fault codes present. Ford claims crank sensor. Haven't replaced that yet. Have fuel in fuel rails. 10 coils could not have lost spark at once. Any part other than crank sensor?
View 14 RepliesIt started with the blower motor that wouldn't turn off by itself when the truck was turned off. I forgot to turn the fan off one night and woke up to a dead battery. Got my dad to come give me a boost and it would turn but not start and the anti theft light in the dash was blinking fast.
Later in the day I got another boost and it started right up.
This was yesterday... after the last boost and startup I went and got a few things, stopped to get gas... started back up fine each time.
Last night I was greasing zerks and making sure everything in the front end was nice and tight when the abs module started clicking... and the anti theft started blinking and truck wouldn't start. Left it alone and went to bed.
This morning I boosted it and it started fine. Later in the day it wouldn't start again because of the anti theft. Gave it 5 minutes and it started. Stopped to get gas... wouldn't start (anti theft)... started after about 5 minutes.
On the way back home... it's been making this 5 beep, pause, 5 beeps, pause sequence so I pulled it into the garage and turned it off now the locks are locking/unlocking by themselves randomly, the beeping is on and off, anti theft light blinks for a few minutes then goes away only to come back...
I've been told to remove the fuse box under the hood and check to make sure all connections are clean... I've searched and seen possible solutions ranging from a dirty connection to needing a new GEM module and apparently sometimes just a low voltage situation will cause our trucks to act nuts...
When I turn off my Ex, the drivers door unlocks automatically, but the other doors remain locked. Is there a way to program it so that all doors unlock automatically?
View 3 RepliesMy excursion has not been engaging the transfer case when the switch is turned on. I have ohmed the switch and also tried a known good switch from another superduty. I can get everything to work properly with a snap on MODIS by performing function tests.
View 4 RepliesMy 2001 f250 7.3 was running then just shut off like I had turned the key off, While trying to start back up, the truck turns over fine but no fire. I also have no gauges, I tested both fuse boxes and the one under the hood I have power on all big fuses, including the PCM but some of the small ones I don't, No power to the PCM diode, either side, the fuse box inside the cab, I have half power, No power to the PCM fuse is their a fusible link somewhere?
I really can't see much down there. The truck did get into a accident in Oct, which created a problem with the ignition and not sure if that could be a problem? That problem is, when I turn the vehicle off, it would stay running for a few seconds. I ignored the problem cause it didn't hinder the vehicle any.
So I went to Target with my wife yesterday and after about 30 mins of shopping, left the store and tried to start the Ex and will not start. The engine tuned over slowly like the battery did not have enough juice to start the truck. So I had it jumped and it started right up. So I went to autozone and the battery and alternator tested and both and in good working order.
Today it happened again. After stopping at a fast food joint to grab a quick bite, same thing it did not start. But before I started the truck the voltmeter showed about 12.6 volts. When I tried to start it, the engine turned really slow and did not start. By that time the volt meter showed about only 6.5 volts. So trying to start it just drained the battery. I had it jumped and it started right up. Went back to Autozone and had the battery and alternator tested and both are fine.
Once the truck is running, the volt meter shows ~13.5 - 14 v volts. No other electrical issues while driving. What's happening? What should I check for? The battery is about 3 years old. I will charge the battery over night and see what happens tomorrow.
I have a noticeable driveline vibration when accelerating from a stop up to 40 m.p.h., after that speed it goes away. I have driven it up to 75 m.p.h. on the highway with no vibrations at that speed. It only does it from 0-40. I have checked the u-joints and driveshaft run-out and all is good. The truck was lifted 6" by the P/O. The pinion angle looks too high to me. (It has 6* shims under the springs).Front u-joint angle is 1/2*, while the rear is 2 1/2* in relation to the driveshaft. If this is the case, wouldn't the vibrations get worse, not better, when speeds increase above 40 m.p.h.? What else to check???
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