Ford Excursion :: Cruise Control Cuts Out When Brake Pedal Is Depressed
Dec 3, 2015
Why is there a sensor on the brake master cylinder? Most other cars and trucks I've seen have tied the cruise control into the brake light (and clutch interlock if Manual transmission.) switch so that when the pedal is depressed, the cruise control cuts out.
In the Ex, could I tap the brake pedal enough that the brake lights come on yet I don't trigger the pressure sensor in the master cylinder to cut the cruise control?
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I have a 2005 Excursion 4x4 Limited 6.0 diesel. I had someone pull alongside me today and tell me my brake lights were out. Sure enough. I double checked and nothing at both lower lights and also nothing at the third brake.
So... here's the short version of the things I've checked so far:
1. no brake lights when pedal depressed.
2. running lights work fine
3. turn signals work fine
4. hazards work fine
5. brake lights DO illuminate when I press the brake button on my trailer brake controller
6. checked power to the green with red tracer wire going to the brake light switch on the pedal. 12 v present continuously
7. checked power to light green wire. 12 v present when pedal is depressed. 0 v when pedal is released.
8. checked power to tail lights (wish I had tried the trailer brake controller sooner, this step would have been unnecessary). voltage present (I think 10-12 v) when the running lights were turned on. 0 v when brake pedal depressed. I suspect now that I would have 12 v when squeezing my trailer brake controller button.
I was pretty convinced it was the brake switch at the pedal. But since I'm seeing the voltage pass through the light green wire when depressed.... I know the wiring to the lights are good because they work when pressing the trailer brake controller button.
So... Do I need to dig into the multifunction switch that I've been reading about? Does the power go from the pedal switch to the multifunction, then to the trailer brake controller? I'm really hoping that I don't have to dig into the column to check that multifunction switch!
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My previous cars with adaptive cruise control didn't do this, but when the vehicle brakes itself, there is a very loud click. I'm assuming it's normal operation, but figured I'd ask here anyways.
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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This has happened 3 or 4 times now while driving down the road. Just cruising down the road the CC will just cut out. I'll hit the "set accel" button on the wheel and all is good again until it randomly decides to do it again.
The only thing I've changed recently is the rear end speed sensor to cure the ABS light. I wouldn't/didn't think this would have any effect on the cruise control, but IDK, maybe I'll put the original one back in and test it.
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Mine has done it a few times now. It seems to do it going up a very long gradual to steeper incline, such as climbing some mountains, when set to 60 MPH. It'll start dropping down until it gets to about 47 +/- MPH, then the cruise just kicks off. No downshifting in sight...
There's a stretch of route 219 through PA heading north towards NY that I encounter about once a month. Yesterday was the 2nd time I've had my Sonata on this trip, and it did it again. It actually did it twice last month on this trip.
The dealer reset the transmission computer due to very cold weather "slipping" from 1-2 shift after the first trip. It appears that didn't take care of this issue, though I didn't mention it to the dealer at the time (it slipped my mind).
I'm reluctant to take it to the dealer, since odds are they won't be able to duplicate the issue. We don't have any roads around here quite like the one this happens on.
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Ok, I changed my front brake pads and rotors last week and since then everytime I get in the truck and drive for about the first 2 or 3 miles when I push the brake pedal it feels like my ABS sytem is activating. Then it stops and the ABS light comes on but the brake pedal stops pulsating when depressed. Is my ABS going bad or did I possibly do something wrong? I have changed the rotors and pads before without problems....
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Brake pedal to the floor... And a lot of fluid on the ground.
I was coming home (empty fortunately) last evening when I noticed the brake pedal give an initial resistance, then slowly sank all the way to the floorboard when slowing down to turn onto my street. When I got to the house, I noticed a hissing sound each time as the depressed brake pedal sank to the floor. When I got out, there was a lot of brake fluid on the ground on the left rear side. It appears to be between the fuel tank and frame rail. From the side it is the section between the fuel filler to just ahead of the left rear wheel. The tank and frame rail is drenched and dripping DOT 3.
I am lucky to not have been pulling my 5th wheel when this happened! However, I have a camping trip coming up in a few weeks, but now my TV is broken. What has happened, and an estimate for repairs? Where is the best place to have it fixed, dealer or specialty shop? I just bought this vehicle in January and it has 102,500 miles, and came complete with full and meticulous repair records. The P.O. was incredible at upkeep, so this is something curious and flukey to me. But do I need to worry about the other side now, too?
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The cruise control cuts out after driving for 25+ minutes. The rpm's rev up to 4000 and the speedometer goes wild just before cutting off. It can be reset but does not hold for long. Short trips and a cooling-off period for the engine seem to work. The dealer could not replicate the condition.
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But when I take my foot off the brake pedal , its just seems rather noisy (clunky). As if VW forgot to put some rubber or something to prevent this clunky sound. (it just sounds cheap)
My jetta and tiguan never seemed like this. Have to stick my head under there and see whats up
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I have another small issue with my 2004 Prius. I just noticed yesterday that the second I very lightly depress the brake pedal, a little clicking sound is made down below. It sounds like it might be coming from the brake pedal itself or somewhere underneath the hood. It's only when I depress the pedal slightly and it makes pretty much the same sound when I release the pedal. I just had a 5000 mile service done to the car and there were no issues then.
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I have a 2003 Passat GLX 4Motion that was fine Monday...Having heavy rain Monday and with brake pedal depressed unable to get out of park..I have brake lights but when I got into car and started it I have airbag light and esp light on as well as check engine light...Is there a way to by pass the shift lock solenoid so I can move car into my garage...
I cleaned connections as was suggested and had a tough time as Bentley Manual states to remove console one must put lever into 3 which as lever is stuck in PARK was impossible...I tried pulling out the shift knob button as described and when I still couldn't get any response found that when I pushed the button back in that I was finally able to get shift lever to respond and finally come out of park...
I now get code for no TCM Signal P1626 No Powertrain Data Bus Signal Missing Message from TCM which now triggers ABS , Airbag ,ESP , and Check Engine light all with the cause no TCM Signal .... Now wondering if any easy way to test for data bus signal ?
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 and since I got it it hasn't had cruse control. I went to a local ford dealership and they ran the vin and didn't find any recall on it. Under the hood on the master cylinder there is brake fluid coming out of the brake control switch. Would I have to do something with the harness too?
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We purchased the vehicle (2013 GX460) in September 2012, and had the car for 6 weeks before my wife was hit by an oncoming car who missed a stop sign. 8 weeks later and 23k of repairable damage to driver fender, front bumper, grille, hood, frame, and all components within those major areas, we received our vehicle.
The vehicle is wonderful and a joy to drive. When the brake pedal is depressed at low speeds (i.e., maneuvering in parking lot, entering driveway), there is a slight vibration to the pedal (similar to the vibration from a cell phone) and a noise that suggests an electric motor is working. The vibration is not like ABS; ABS is a profound vibration. The vibration we experience is very slight. The vibration is not apparent at highway speeds.
I do not recall either the vibration or the noise prior to the accident, and I suspect that this is a result from the accident or from the repairs. I have already brought the GX back to the dealer for this problem and they were quick to dismiss it, but I am really concerned that this is a real problem, and I want the dealer to re-assess.
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My brake pedal is making a creaking noise when depressed and can also be heard when letting off the pedal. The noise is not coming from the brakes themselves (front/back are like new) but the pedal area or somewhere behind it. This noise doesn't start until I've driven the car for a little while. The brakes work fine for the most part but sometimes feel a bit spongy if making a sudden or hard stop. The fluid levels are fine.
I'm taking it in on Friday and hoping that the brakes just need to be bled a little or maybe the pedal just needs lube, but I'm worried it might be the booster or master cylinder---if it is one of these?
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I have recently purchased a 2007 Gen 2 Prius and sometimes it emits a very annoying squeak. It occurs when the car is stationary, with the brake pedal fully depressed. When inside the vehicle it seems to be coming from behind the glove box. When on the outside and facing the car it seems to be coming from below / behind the electric motor. I have made a recording of it with the noise in question being audible for a couple of seconds at 0:13, and then again at 0:22 until the end. It could be nothing I guess, but this is my first hybrid and I am not too sure what is perfectly normal and what is not.
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A couple weeks ago the front brakes were done on the Mazda. Then the wheel bearings needed to be done. I think the shop outsourced what I guess was the packing of the bearings. I paid for the work, and drove away, nearly, but didn't because I had no brakes and there I was pulling out into 5:00 PM traffic. The emergency brake saved me. I walked back into the shop and they discovered the power brake booster had broken. I wonder, because if you drove the Mazda to park it in the shop lot where the customers pick up the vehicles after repairs are made, wouldn't you notice that there is no braking action. The brake pedal was high and hard and there was literally no response when I depressed it.
The shop keeper said, darn I guess I'll have to replace this, meaning pay for it, since it (may have) happened when the bearings were being worked on. My question is, is there any reason why working on bearings might end up breaking the brake booster? Chances are, it was just coincidence, right? or? I don't know. Because the car is old, he had to take several days to find the part. Anyway, he sent me off and told me to drive it carefully. The drive home was absolutely nervewracking and required continual tugging up on the emergency brake stick. I wonder if they despise my car so much now that they are sending me off to drive in it in such an unsafe condition. Anyway, hoping it will be fixed tomorrow. But my question still is ... would working on bearings possibly be cause for breaking the brake booster?
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I turn my cruise on and then attempt to set it , nothing happens , doesn't set, no light , nothing. I hit coast and the light comes on but still doesn't hold. Should the light come on when cruise is turned on or set? I checked the master cylinder switch and it's not wet. I also did the self diagnostic test and got nothing but the initial first light blink.
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Nissan Rogue SV 2011 is keyless entry vehicle. When using remote starter, the engine shuts off when brake pedal depressed and the car is restarted to drive away. does this 'turning off/turning on' the engine damage any of the systems of this vehicle. it just doesn't seem a good idea to have the engine turned off and then immediately turned on.
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Have this problem?
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Just got my first X(and Ford) a couple days ago. Anyways, the cruise control doesn't work. I checked the CC switch on the master and it tested fine and I installed new switches on the steering wheel.
When I do the self diagnostic test with the steering wheel switches they all test fine, and on the last button(set) it lights up, but no other flashes. What does that mean? In 1 thread it stats that 0 flashes is the speed control servo.
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