Ford Excursion :: No Start - Gauge Cluster Warning Lights Staying On


Feb 8, 2017

Well I have got a 2000 Excursion with v10 that I've been having some electrical problems with lately. All started with a no start issue and gauge cluster warning lights staying on along with fuel and volt gauges reading without the keys being in the ignition. Took it in to the dealership to get looked at and they are saying it needs a new fuse box and gem module put in it. Was also told that it is an obsolete part and gonna be tricky trying to find the correct one for my truck as it needs to be identical to what my truck has as options. Is there any other places out there making new ones or fixing gem modules? Dealership pretty much told me if they can't find a new gem module for it that the truck is pretty much dead in the water.

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I replaced the headlight switch was I wasn't getting power to the light blue/red wire on the dimmer side. (Dr. Google told me to do this) Both failed at the same time so I'm thinking it is not a bulb issue. What to chase next?

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Ford Excursion :: Gauge Lights On And No Start

Wife got home from work the other day with no problems and then a couple hours later tried to go start excursion to leave and battery was dead. I tried jumping it only to find out that once the battery started getting juice in it the gauge warning lights started to illuminate. Wouldn't start with being jumped so put the battery on charge for a couple hours and still no go. Took the battery into napa and they tested it and said it was bad.

Put new battery into it and am still stuck with the same problems. Hook the battery up and no key in the ignition and the warning lights around the exterior of the gauges are lit up. This is all on a 2000 v10 excursion. Up until now we have not had any problems with this truck. Wife daily drives it with no problems.

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I shorted the ECT connector to simulate a hot condition--gauge still shows Cold. Checked the yellow/red wire against ground--5 ohm. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes--no change.

Now, it looks like I'll have to pull the instrument cluster, which is not something I want to do since I don't really have a place to work on the car, but I take this drastic measure.

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Second, my gauge cluster lights up when I'm driving outside w/o the lights on. When I go into a parking deck the gauge cluster starts out lit and then goes completely black except for the blue needles. Wondering if this is normal or if I have a cluster issue?

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Cluster gauges still work fine. The lights just don't work.

Note: Both headlights are out so I don't know if that could be connected in some way. Haven't been able to change them yet.

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CAR HAS A BRAND NEW BATTERY.

I can unlock the doors, get in the car and try to start it. When the key is turned as far as it will go without starting the car the cluster lights up, all warning lights come on. but that's it. Radio, climate control, windows, donut seats, NOTHING else works. Then when you turn the key to start it nothing happens, Not even a click. power wouldn't work.

things I have tried.

NEW BATTERY, CHECK FUSES, ROCKING THE ROCK IN PARK, STARTING IN NEUTRAL

nothing as worked. I'm pretty much lost now.

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When the is occurring it also seems that the A/C stops working and the the car will tend to lock itself and set the alarm. Well except the driver's rear door doesn't actually lock.

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Problem: when it warms up and drive well for a while than the gauge start to go up and start staying its overheating. The weird thing is when I turn on the A/C it brings the temperature back down. When its in gear and running without the A/C it creeps up to almost the red. I cleaned the Radiator and made sure it was clean but it still does the same thing. On top of that, the upper hose (when the car is turned off) seem to colapse slightly.

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