Ford Excursion :: O/D Light Flashes / Tranny Shifts Funny Then V10 Dies?
Nov 6, 2014
My tranny guy just did a full scan and the ONLY thing which indicated a problem was 'output speed sensor' which we were able to trace back to most likely being caused by a completely hosed driveshaft (I've noticed a driveline vibration). We're going to install a new driveshaft, replace the output speed sensor(s), check for any frayed/chaffed wiring going to the output speed sensor(s) and then see where that leads us (he said something about some computer module in the dash which he's had to replace on several Sooper Dooties).
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OK, so my 2000 FWD 6.8L Ex has 128k actual miles on the odometer w/ a stock 6.8L from a wrecked later model truck with ~115k actual miles on this 2nd engine from what I was told by the PO/2nd owner (I have no reason to doubt him and I verified the history with the original owner). So I'm guessing that the 4R100 is original without having ever been rebuilt.
I've had zero issues with the drivetrain up to this point, this truck has always run like a top and been very reliable. This afternoon in drive time traffic the overdrive light started flashing and at the same time I noticed that the transmission was shifting really hard (snapping into the next gear) and not in a good way. I was in stop and go traffic when it was shifting weird like this. At one point I make it up to 55+ and I noticed that the O/D light had quit flashing and now it was shifting like it normally does. Then back into stop and go driving the O/D light starts flashing again accompanied by the weird hard shifts.
Next thing I'm sitting there with my foot on the brake fully stopped waiting for traffic to start moving through the traffic signal when out of nowhere and no indication of anything being amiss the engine quits and I get dash lights including CHECK ENGINE and THEFT. I cycle the key off and then try to restart it. It took nearly 10 seconds of cranking to get it to start up however once started everything is back to normal and I have NO trouble lights illuminated including no O/D light and it's back to shifting normally. I continue on in stop and go and highway speed driving for the next 15 minutes like nothing ever happened, transmission is shifting like it always has. The truck has been turned off once and restarted since that incident, yet no other indications of any issue. What's going on?? What to check into?
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2000 X V10 4WD... 178K. Truck was not well maintained for most of it's existence. Drained both the TC and Drain pain and replaced the oil filter. Tranny oil looked like crude and a lot of tiny specs of metal - it shimmered in the sun... needless to say - I'm pretty sure it had never been changed.
Now - issues since I've gotten it done... Tranny has been slipping... I figured that I may not have filled it enough and after adding a few quarts, it seems to have stopped. Slipping was initially just when going from a stop.
Now it's having a problem where the engine dies when I shift from one position to another... For instance - from Park to Reverse, the engine RPMs drop as the clutch engages - but they drop from about 900 RPM down to about 500. And 50/50 chance the engine dies. Going from Park to Drive, the same thing but maybe drops to about 700 RPMs. Tried it in 2nd and 1st gear. Has happened in both. I've tried shifting to OD first before going to 2nd to 1st or vice versa and seems to behave better.
Should I flash the ECU and have it relearn the shift points? Did I overfill? Between the TC and Drain Pan - about 16 qts came out. I've been checking the dipstick - no frothing or bubbles. When running and in park - it actually shows low. Seems to drive fine once it's on the road. The engine cutting off when it's put into gear is really unexpected.
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My tranny started acting up so I took it to a reputable transmission shop for repair.
Symptoms : Shifts very hard 1st to 2nd. Light flashes on overdrive button.
The following is what has been done at the transmission shop.
Computer failed to read codes. Sent out to rebuild. After rebuild, codes read FIPL needs replace. Done and gives good readout. Trans control replaced, speed sensor replaced, checked all associated wiring and plugs as well as ground. Dropped pan, changed fluid and filter. No parts in pan. Tech says pan and fluid looked good. Replaced coil pack.
After all that, this is what is happening..Clear all codes. FIPL reading good. No flashing light on shifter. It feels like it is shifting from 1st to 3rd, then back to 2nd. Still shifting hard and indicator light starts blinking again. He is going to read computer again. At this point, he suspects a mechanical problem in transmission but is reluctant to remove and tear down.
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Pulled the codes and erased them a few days ago for the first time and now it's about a once a day thing. I can drive for 2-3 stops and then I come out of a place, get in the truck, and when I start it up I have the light and the OD flashing.
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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Today i go out and crank my truck and it fires right up. I notice the overdrive light on the shifter is flashing. It did that a few days ago but stopped within a minute or so. This time i noticed the check engine soon light was lit as well. I checked my scan gauge and it said three codes stored. The first one i looked at was P0705. The truck was running fine the whole time. I turned it off and tried to crank it again.
This time it just turned over and over but would not crank. I cleared the codes before checking the other two codes. I wish i would not have done that but I wasn't thinking straight. I tried several more times to crank but it never fired. One time it tried to but never fully did. I gave up and switched cars. I am going to try again when i get back home. What causing this?
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So I have a 2000 6.8l V10 that I recently swapped the engine on (reman). While I was doing that, I decide to do some LED upgrades. I swapped out the turn signals, side marker lights, and headlights with LEDs. I added some LED fog lights, and I have a Rigid light bar.
I replaced pretty much everything on attached to the engine aside from the alternator (it didn't give me any problems, so I figured it was good).
When the truck is running with the lights off, there are 6 LED strips running as DRLs, when the lights are switched on, the side marker, turn signal and headlights turn on. When I switch to high beams, my fogs turn on. The light bar is on its own switch.
During the day with the headlights off, I dont notice the battery/charging system indicator light turn on at all. At night, when I flip the headlights on, I've noticed that it sporadically and randomly flash. The flashing indicator light does not appear to be associated with bumps or anything.
It does not seem to matter if I have just the DRL/low beams on, DRL/high beams+fogs, or DRL/high beams+fogs + light bar on. The indicator light comes and goes with the same random consistency regardless of how much power I am sucking from the alternator/battery. The RPM's of the engine also appear to have no effect on when/how often the indicator light comes on...
I drove for over an hour last night, and the voltage gauge never changed, so the battery does not *seem* to be draining (~1 year old Optima yellow). I added an extra ground wire going from the battery to the engine about a year ago (long before this LED upgrade) to ensure a good ground, so I dont *think* the wires are the issue. Is my alternator suddenly going bad? Any higher output ones I could replace it with? Is it a simple fix that does not require a new alternator?
Here are some pics of the lights:
(This was before the fog light install)
These lights only come on when the truck is in reverse:
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Ok, I have a strange no start issue right now. My excursion won't start. I have power to everything and both batteries are at 12 volts or a bit more but the starter won't engage. If you turn the key to start all that happens is relays click under the dash and the airbag light flashes. It almost seems like the transmission is in gear. It did this twice about a month ago and has been fine ever since until today.
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I have an '03 w/ the 7.3L. Today the tranny stopped shifting up out of 2nd. And the O/D light flashes. There are no other MIL lights on. I have do some searching here and some say the VSS (Variable Speed Sensor) is bad, some say there is a connector on the passenger side that needs cleaning, and some say there is a solenoid just inside of the tranny bottom that needs replacing. So, what shall I do?
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So while driving to work I start experiencing some weird behavior with the transmission. It would shift hard and seem like it wasn't pulling hard at all. I looked down and saw the overdrive off light flashing. Got to work, turned the car off then started back up and the light was off. Any thoughts?
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I just had my tranny rebuilt it doesn't shift hard all the time but it does from time to time going from 2nd -3rd and 3rd -4th I thought being new it may need to soak up some fluid so the bands can swell so I ask the shop that rebuilt it that question he said they soaked them as they rebuilt it so they should be swollen already then he proceeded to tell me it was electrical is he telling me the truth because the ck engine light isn't showing any faults and if it was electric shouldn't that have been fixed in the shop while it was being rebuilt if it was interior electronic?
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'00 PSD w/ 291k on the clock. Starts easily, runs good, only complaint is (what I consider to be) the soft shift of the tranny. Years ago, when I bought it, it came with a Super Chips Tuner. I've never max'd it out, just usually run on the performance tow. Is there any way to clean up the shifts and make them a bit quicker with less slip. When it's time to shift, dammit, I want it to "SHIFT", not slide into gear. I don't expect it to hit the gears like a manual valve bodied drag car tranny. But, there should be something to fix this without spending a bunch of $$$..
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 188,000 miles on it. I bought it used with 110K miles and put a new tranny in at that time. Now, I am having problems. I don't know if it's the tranny or the engine. It looses power when climbing hills. It takes off really slow with no power and finally gets up to speed it switches gears the whole time smoothly but the engine just can't take a load.
The check engine light came on and put out 10 codes:
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent
P1747 Electronic Solenoid A-Short Circuit
P0743-Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0750-Shift Solenoid "A"
P0755-Shift Solenoid "B"
P0760-Shift Solenoid "C"
P0765-Shift Solenoid "D"
P0135-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P0155-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P1409-EGR Vacuum Regulator Circuit Malfunction
Those are the codes and I don't know how one has anything to do with the other. I checked the dip stick on the tranny and it's clean. Juicy red and not shavings.
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2001 T&C with 3.3, 4speed tranny and 128K miles.
Here's an interesting one: This morning I went went to get gas and no problems getting to the gas station. I pull out of the gas station and get to the first light, again no problem. Light turns green, I go and the tranny shifts from 1st to..... nothing! Just like I slipped it into neutral. I coasted into a parking lot, moved the gear selector from Park to R to D to L, and nothing.
I put it in Park and shut off the engine, then restart and shift into drive and it goes into gear! I start to drive away and when it's time to shift, it goes from 1st to.... nothing again! Once again none of the gears work, until I shut the engine off and restart.
After I restarted the engine I shifted to L and drove home in 1st gear keeping an eye on the tach so I wouldn't exceed 3500 RPM. Got home with no problem.
So, to recap, when it goes to shift up from 1st it goes into nothing. Just like neutral. No check engine light, not "limp mode". If I shut off the engine and restart, it'll go into 1st, and if I keep it in L so it won't try to shift up, it'll drive all the way home in 1st. Reverse doesn't work no matter what I try.
Some background: I changed the tranny fluid and filter 2 years ago at around 90K. fluid level is good. It did rain hard last night, conicidence? The engine compartment is dry.
I think it is safe to rule out a mechanical problem, this seems to be electrical and we can probably rule out the tranny range sensor since it keeps it in 1st when I have it in L and the backup lights come on when I put it in R.
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I have a V6. When I just want to slowly get going I very slowly depress the pedal and hold, or leave off when speed is reached. Tranny shifts at low rpms, not much acceleration. I have completely avoided kickdowns, which exhibit a bit of a lag. When I really need to get going quickly off the line I steadily press the pedal more quickly than for a slow start. The effect is quite remarkable; tranny holds gears until about 4,000 or 5,000 rpm, and the car really moves. When I need to accelerate and I'm already moving I always shift into sport or I use the TIP.
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I have an 02 X, and it's been giving us trouble for almost 2 years now. We've babied it along, but it is acting so crazy now. Here's the current weirdness...
Truck idles, ABS light comes on, within 15 seconds engine dies. Battery is DEAD, must have a jump to restart. Otherwise, if we catch the ABS light and Rev the engine to 2500 rpm and hold it for a few seconds until the ABS light goes out, then it is fine and does not die.
We have replaced the alternator with a stock Ford brand (whatever their brand is from the dealer) because we were told the ones from the auto part stores didn't have a strong enough or steady enough current. (This thing had already eaten 3 auto parts store brand alternators in 2 years.)
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I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
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I have a 2011 camry se 4cyl with 15k miles. Just wanted to know if you have to change Trans Fluid because my tranny shifts hard between gears.
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I just bought 2011 Camry 23K miles, L4 engine and 6 sp auto trans. Experienced strange downshifting - when slowing down the tranny shifts down, so the RPM jumps from about 900 to 1,200 and the cycle repeats for the next gear. Feels almost like the car is getting ready for the (possible) acceleration. It mostly happens when I am coasting, not when I am breaking. I already disconnected battery for the few hours to reset transmission shifting points memory.
I have seen "transmission flare up" tread about V6 engine + 6 sp tran combination, but it is not it.
I also have 2009 Camry with 5 speed 170K miles, and it shifts so nice you could not tell what gear you are on; and have 2009 Highlander.
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I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra with about 58k miles on it. When it shifts into gear I hear a slight squeak, almost like a bushing or something like that. It does not sound mechanically related. More of something squeaking or loose etc.
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