Ford Excursion :: Tranny Slipping And Engine Dies When Shift From One Position To Another
Aug 23, 2015
2000 X V10 4WD... 178K. Truck was not well maintained for most of it's existence. Drained both the TC and Drain pain and replaced the oil filter. Tranny oil looked like crude and a lot of tiny specs of metal - it shimmered in the sun... needless to say - I'm pretty sure it had never been changed.
Now - issues since I've gotten it done... Tranny has been slipping... I figured that I may not have filled it enough and after adding a few quarts, it seems to have stopped. Slipping was initially just when going from a stop.
Now it's having a problem where the engine dies when I shift from one position to another... For instance - from Park to Reverse, the engine RPMs drop as the clutch engages - but they drop from about 900 RPM down to about 500. And 50/50 chance the engine dies. Going from Park to Drive, the same thing but maybe drops to about 700 RPMs. Tried it in 2nd and 1st gear. Has happened in both. I've tried shifting to OD first before going to 2nd to 1st or vice versa and seems to behave better.
Should I flash the ECU and have it relearn the shift points? Did I overfill? Between the TC and Drain Pan - about 16 qts came out. I've been checking the dipstick - no frothing or bubbles. When running and in park - it actually shows low. Seems to drive fine once it's on the road. The engine cutting off when it's put into gear is really unexpected.
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My tranny guy just did a full scan and the ONLY thing which indicated a problem was 'output speed sensor' which we were able to trace back to most likely being caused by a completely hosed driveshaft (I've noticed a driveline vibration). We're going to install a new driveshaft, replace the output speed sensor(s), check for any frayed/chaffed wiring going to the output speed sensor(s) and then see where that leads us (he said something about some computer module in the dash which he's had to replace on several Sooper Dooties).
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OK, so my 2000 FWD 6.8L Ex has 128k actual miles on the odometer w/ a stock 6.8L from a wrecked later model truck with ~115k actual miles on this 2nd engine from what I was told by the PO/2nd owner (I have no reason to doubt him and I verified the history with the original owner). So I'm guessing that the 4R100 is original without having ever been rebuilt.
I've had zero issues with the drivetrain up to this point, this truck has always run like a top and been very reliable. This afternoon in drive time traffic the overdrive light started flashing and at the same time I noticed that the transmission was shifting really hard (snapping into the next gear) and not in a good way. I was in stop and go traffic when it was shifting weird like this. At one point I make it up to 55+ and I noticed that the O/D light had quit flashing and now it was shifting like it normally does. Then back into stop and go driving the O/D light starts flashing again accompanied by the weird hard shifts.
Next thing I'm sitting there with my foot on the brake fully stopped waiting for traffic to start moving through the traffic signal when out of nowhere and no indication of anything being amiss the engine quits and I get dash lights including CHECK ENGINE and THEFT. I cycle the key off and then try to restart it. It took nearly 10 seconds of cranking to get it to start up however once started everything is back to normal and I have NO trouble lights illuminated including no O/D light and it's back to shifting normally. I continue on in stop and go and highway speed driving for the next 15 minutes like nothing ever happened, transmission is shifting like it always has. The truck has been turned off once and restarted since that incident, yet no other indications of any issue. What's going on?? What to check into?
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This is my first experience with auto tranny trouble so I'm a bit out of my depth. It started a few days ago. When you put it in gear and step on the gas, the engine revs, but no forward movement. If you keep giving it gas and rev it up, it will eventually grab and off you go. This happened around town after I took it to work last week when I went out for lunch.
When I drove it home, it slipped in and out several times in town, then by the time I got out of town (maybe 5 minutes driving) it evened out and didn't slip the rest of the way home (a 45 min drive). My assumption is that once it warmed up a bit that stopped the slipping. I checked the transmission fluid when I got back from lunch, and it was a little high. I drove it again today a week later and same thing only I didn't drive it long enough for it to warm up and stop slipping like it did the other day.
Other details: The truck is a 4x4, extended cab, v6 Ford Ranger with about 175k miles on it. I've had it about 1 1/2 years and its performed great up till now.
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I recently bought my first EX and I finally had enough of looking at this
The transmission shift lever indicator not being in the proper position needed to be fixed!
After some searching, I realized what the issue was and was quite surprised that the "fix" is replacing the entire shift lever indicator assembly. Seems overkill but right on par of with the way the world works nowadays.
The other solution I found was by a company called Dorman. They make a Shift Indicator Cable Bracket, which is the only part that was damaged in my case as you can see here. The white part pointed at by the arrow is supposed to be attached to the rest of the white plastic.
I looked around the garage thinking I need some glue. And something to reinforce the freshly glued parts. That should have been much more difficult as I don't regularly fix tiny plastic parts BUT I quickly came across this old external hard drive cover.
Broke some tabs off, trimmed them to size and poured glue all over the place.
This is what I ended up with.
Now my OCD can focus on something else
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Tranny died 12000 miles ago and shop rebuilt tranny with new torque converter.
Problem then and now is after long freeway run 60+miles it dies and bogs down with any shift change. If it is placed in 2nd it will bogg down and die. If the tranny auto shifts it also dies. If it cools or just sits it will run again for a while. This does not happen always so it is hard to duplicate it.
Truck is not towing or even loaded most of the time and only once was it loaded when it died, the first rebuild. Truck has 249000 miles, ex v10.
So any clues as to what the shop missed last time and is it worth rebuilding again. Truck is only worth a bit more than the cost of shop time.
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I have a 2012 Ford 4x4 crew cab 150 xlt. 15,000 miles. When pulling my dump trailer I was stopping to turn and the transmission disengaged. Once I turned the corner coasting the transmission kicked back in again. During this happening pushing the gas did nothing but rev up engine. My dealer said if this happened that a warning light would of came on or a wrench would appear on dash but it didn't. He said then it didn't happen. This happened 3 times in 10 miles of driving. I had it in tow mode.
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Let me first say that my knowledge about vehicles is nearly non existent. Yesterday I was stopped at a light on a hill. When I pulled away up the hill it felt like the tranny was slipping real bad. I coasted into a gas station and stopped. I gave it the once over look around to see if I could see anything unusual. All looked ok, so I wondered if maybe it wasn't all the way into gear or something.
I limped it home only 2 miles and it was seemingly normal although I was real gentle and it was all flat or downhill. Later that night I drove it around the block and it was shuddering and banging and seemed to be slipping again. My question is doesn't the transmission usually go over time, or does it fail suddenly like this. Could it be something else? And lastly what does a rebuild cost. Truck is 06 FX4 54000 miles 3.73 gears. Edge Evolution on level 2.
I tow a Trailer a few times a year 7000 lbs fully loaded, if I do need a new tranny should I replace to a different gear.
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I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
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1991 Ranger 4.0L A4LD... Its a 4x4. ext cab
What else will bolt up to this 4.0L? Could i put a 4R44E/4R55E tranny? Is there a good stick that bolts up?
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Took my first camping with 2012 King Ranch F350 and 37 feet Challenger 12k fifth wheel trailer over the weekend.
I noticed there is lot of transmission slips in first gear. Once it enters 2nd gear, no more slips.
My previous Chev 2008 2500HD diesel didn't slip much with same trailer.
Is this normal for this F350? My rear ratio is 3.55. No slips without hauling.
Maybe I need to ask dealer to check 1st gear towing?
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I spoke with a few people here before about my 4r100.. it threw a code a month ago for P0750.. i replaced solenoid and it continued to do it even after clearing codes numerous times.. then all of a sudden it was perfectly fine for over a week, no codes, i ran a few brick hauls with it and ran it for over an hour straight.. i went to fl and upon return i took her for a drive and wouldnt you know, the code has returned.. i did hammer down a little but not from a dig, i just got on it a little playing with a neighbor and his truck and all of a sudden it did its thing slipping and not up shifting then the O/D started flashing again... i cant understand why the code would come back all of a sudden, there has to be a wiring problem correct?
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I have a older minimax with the latest updates and have noticed that under full acceleration the tranny seems to rev up faster than the truck is accelerating. This occurs i think in 3rd gear like accelerating onto a on ramp etc. Kinda like its slipping if you know what I mean. I'm running the mild tunes in tow mode. Everything else seems ok.
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'06 Power Stroke/136k miles.
This last weekend I was towing my rzr up hill and the tranny slipped, lost power, and the "Wrench" check eng came on. I pulled over, checked my fluids, checked for leaks, checked for smells, couldn't see anything visibly wrong.
Turned it back on and no other issues on the way to the camp site. On the way home, days later, same thing happened twice. Is the tranny going bye bye? Would it be worth it to get a flush for the possibility it just may be the fluid and maybe some sediments or something of the sort?
AND the bigger question is, if it is the tranny, should I trade this POS in, or replace the tranny? It has had a few problems lately with the turbo. Needs a new AC compressor. I didn't do much homework or know about the 6.0's before I bought this truck. After I bought this truck last year I heard about all the problems the 6.0's have and wished I would have went another route.
I can turn a wrench pretty decent (Aircraft Mechanic) but I have very little knowledge on vehicles, let alone this POS. I am apprehensive about doing a transmission or any big components without assistance. This is why I am trying to decide what the best option would be for the long run.
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I have an 02 X, and it's been giving us trouble for almost 2 years now. We've babied it along, but it is acting so crazy now. Here's the current weirdness...
Truck idles, ABS light comes on, within 15 seconds engine dies. Battery is DEAD, must have a jump to restart. Otherwise, if we catch the ABS light and Rev the engine to 2500 rpm and hold it for a few seconds until the ABS light goes out, then it is fine and does not die.
We have replaced the alternator with a stock Ford brand (whatever their brand is from the dealer) because we were told the ones from the auto part stores didn't have a strong enough or steady enough current. (This thing had already eaten 3 auto parts store brand alternators in 2 years.)
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O/D light was blinking and "check trans" message was on display. I brought in for service and they changed trans fluid & filter. I have to take back to service center because now tranny is slipping. I would like to have some information before going back. It was not doing this before service. It is OK on highway for most part, happens more when starting out. Also has shut off a few times while sitting at a light. It didn't do any of this before service. What would cause this? Could it be the wrong fluid or not enough added?
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Heard a 2011 F250 gaser while driving in the morning just falls flat on its face, almost like its starving for fuel as well as it feels like the tranny is slipping too. What this could be? I am not sure if its electrical or what.
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I also tried jump starting - get same same result. Engine cranks, turns, and then sounds like it is just about to start up normally but it just dies completely. It seems to want to start but just can accelerate the engine high enough to keep it running. Almost like it's flooded on a carb motor.. 2000 V10..
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I'm experiencing a serious problem with the tranny on my V10 TDI: When the engine's warmed up it sometimes starts slipping and generally keeps on slipping, even when cruising on the highway, until the engine is cooled off again. In thread [URL] .... I read something about a "faulty solenoid valve inside the tranny". Could this be the cause?
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It is a bit 'of time that my engine have some loss of power with bumps that is not much noticeable and, for now, only just annoying while driving. But lately it has happened that, especially with the AC turned on, the engine dies during gear shift. I noticed that when this happens, the engine rpms drops more fast than normal, causing rough idle for 3-4 seconds (it go down to ~4-500 rpm) and subsequent automatic acceleration from the ecu to ~1200 rpm to settle again to the normal idle (~700 rpm). When this happens if the AC is on, sometimes the engine dies.
I checked the idle control valve and it work good and it's clean. The spark plugs have less than 5000 km, spark wire are good and also coils are in line with the reference values, Primary Coil 0.87 Ω 10% at 20 C (68 F), Secondary Coil 13.0 kΩ 15% at 20 C (68 F) (I don't have the coil on plug but external coil version, like this: [URL] ....)
The only thing a bit 'strange that I noticed is that the throttle position sensor has a strange range when i check it with an obd2 scanner. The idle % reported is 8,7% and at full throttle is 87,5%. I never removed or changed this sensor. If I remember correctly once I unplugged its connector, but the engine was turned off. Is this the normal range??? There is some reset procedure for this sensor?
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I just bought this 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis with 87k on it. It runs and idles smoothly, good gas mileage, no sign of trouble--except a cold start. It actually starts fine, but when I shift into drive the engine dies. If its 0, it just dies. If I idle it a minute or two, it will do OK. At 20 degrees, it slows like its going to die, but then recovers. Once I have it running in drive (or reverse) it behaves completely normally. Since this thing is presumably computer controlled with no adjustments, I am puzzled. The only clue is that this was an estate-probated car, and probably sat around for 6 months or so. I had no clue on purchase--probably because the seller warmed it up before I got there to try it out.
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