Ford Excursion :: Power Windows On A Delay After Turning The Key?
Oct 19, 2014
I start the truck, but windows don't work. After 30 seconds or so, the lights on the window buttons light up and there's an audible beep, then they work fine. I discovered this when I turned the key to put the windows up when it was getting dark out. At first I thought they were dead all together, but after playing with it, I just had to wait for the beep. After testing, it was the same whether I just turned the key, or actually started the truck. Is this some sort of feature?
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I changed both fuel filters on my 2015 F350 6.7 I turn the key online for 30 seconds then turned it off for total of 6 times when to start the truck this morning after driving it yesterday and it took a little bit longer to turn over before it finally did, did I miss something up that I do something wrong. So I let my truck warm up this morning after going to start it at took a little bit longer for it to turn over I turned it off wait a few seconds then turned it back on and she started up how she used to perfectly fine does it just need to go through a drive cycle. This is the second fuel filter replacement nothing was wrong with the other ones I'm at 40000 miles now ... also it seems like the fuel filter on the frame rail is louder if you put the filter in upside down on that will it fit stupid question I'm sure I did it right but thought I'd ask before I tear it apart....
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For the past two years I've noticed a decrease in fuel economy and recently noticed that the truck did not "feel" as if it had the same power especially when towing. Checking all the usual suspects with the engine turned up nothing and the transmission wasn't showing any signs of problems other than an occasional delay going into reverse. But it had been doing that for years and so I just ignored it.
Recently the torque converter started acting up and had some other occasional shifting delays and so decided to put the vehicle in the shop. The electronics all checked out and so a HD rebuild kit was ordered. The truck was finished this morning. Just barely pressing the accelerator makes the vehicle instantly start forward with noticeable zip. Plenty of power at all speeds, the engine now feels like new.
I suspect the main culprit was the torque converter. It wasn't enough to notice in excessive rpms nor heat (at least according to the instrument gauge) but the loss is noticeable in hindsight when compared to the repaired system. Over the next few weeks I'll get some mileage numbers and will know for sure whether I've found the sole cause of my power problems but I am sure that I've made a fairly large step in solving them.
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My driver side on my 00 x works for the the front 2 windows but not the rear and no other door switch works the windows ...
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All my power windows aren't working along with my after market radio. All the fuses are good
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I have a 2000 EX 7.3L ... The power windows aren't working and neither is the interior lights. I am hoping it is a couple of fuses. Problem is that I can't find a fuse diagram and I don't have any knowledge about changing the fuses. Do I need to change them both under the hood and under the dash? Which fuses I need to look at changing?
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On a 1999 Excursion with a v10. I've got a strange problem. When the truck is left overnight, the battery is dead. Doing some testing, the is a serious draw through the dome light circuit that controls the Gem and the Tail Lights. If I pull that fuse each night, then the battery is fine. But I can't leave that fuse out, as the shifter interlock switch is disabled by this fuse. All the tail lights seem to work fine.
Dome lights do not come on. I've tested the bulbs. They're good. There is now power it seems to the dome light sockets. The door ajar light works, so I'm guessing all the switches are good.
I also have no power windows working. There is no 12v to the switch. But I heard about the Gem module as well. So I'm not sure if the Gem controls if there should be 12v to the switch all the time.
I pulled out the Gem. It looks good. No sign of corrosion or water.
Any thoughts on what to look for or how to troubleshoot this? Is there a way to test a Gem? Would a bad Gem cause the battery draw down?
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I noticed that after turning off the ignition I could still operate my power windows for awhile. Why would this be?
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe Limited. When I first bought it, I'm pretty sure the headlights would delay turning off for a few seconds after removing the ignition key. Now they turn off as soon as the ignition key is turned off. Is that normal? I can find nothing in the User Manual and the dealer does not seem to know how it works.
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Got in the truck this morning and the windows won't go down. The rear pop out windows don't work either. I've tried the doors themselves, I've tried the window lock switch, and I've given the fuses a half look but need to really get into them.
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I have a 1974 Mercedes 280 C. Two of the power windows no longer work...the driver rear (stuck down) and the passenger front (stuck up). The problem started with middle console switches...the right bank (passenger controls) the small chrome surrounding piece popped off and caused the switches to get stuck then fall apart. I was trying to put them back together and got a spark...ooops car was on and i was using metal tweezers...then the rear driver side no longer worked??? others work. Do the switches need to be replaced or is it a bigger electrical problem. Checked fuses...all fine.
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I hear a metal on metal scraping/screeching sound with the windows down and only when i drive by guard rails and other stuff sound reflects off of. I saw the traveling hub zerk thread and that's what made me think of it. I've zerked every fitting I've seen, but this ones new to me. Problem is I can't even tell witch wheel (if any) it's coming from. It's consistent with speed.
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I've had the rear barn doors and window start rattling lately no matter how tight I think I've closed them. The seals look ok.
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Is it possible?
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Okay here is the deal: My X has been leaking from the time that I purchased the thing almost 2 years ago, in the back intermittent at first and I have been trying to trace it. It's not the roof rack and not any hinges or goodies around the edge, top, door, trim, etc. So what is it! Well we finally got some rain here and I am pretty sure it's the actual glass seal!?!? What should I use to seal it If I pull all the nuts off the bolts does the glass pop out? I just don't want it to go "pop"
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I have 2001 EX with the 7.3 and my rear vent windows stuck open and I am stumped as to what might be the culprit. There isn't any power getting to the switches in the overhead console.
I replaced the relay 204 in the engine compartment, I believe that is the correct one.
Where the actual fuse is located for this and its number? Because both of them are stuck open not just one side.
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Whenever I turn the wheel there is a ticking that seems to be coming from the front wheels. You can only hear it with the windows down and going slower than 10 mph. The rate of ticks seem to speed up or slow down depending on how fast I am going around a corner. I don't have a lift at my disposal and don't particularly love going to the dealership.
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Front AC working just fine. Is it a blower I need? How much and how hard to install?
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Nothing happens when I turn the switch.
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What would cause the running lights to not turn off? The door ajar light is not lighting up so would it be safe to assume that it isn't a door ajar problem? The interior lights are on as well but I have already done the interior light switch mod and changed them to LEDS so my battery draw will be a lot less. The running board lights do turn off after about 45 minutes though.
My overhead console backlights do not turn on and the rearview mirror isn't lit either since last week but I do not know if the issues are related. The Lie O meter still works fine though. What fuse it is? I would like to pull it till I get this resolved.
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When turning right, either sharply or just during a long gradual turn in the road, I hear a grinding or running sound consistent with RPM coming from the rear - I think the right rear. It driving flat, no sound. If turning left, no sound. To me, it seems if the right rear is unloaded a bit weight wise, the sound occurs.
I'm thinking wheel bearing. Hoping not differential, but it really does seem to come from right rear not center of rear. Only if turning right and moving weight to left side.
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