Ford Excursion :: Slight Thump In Rear End When Transfer From Brake Pedal To Accelerator And Initially Begin Moving
May 22, 2017
I have a '02 Excursion with a 7.3L PSD, 238,000 miles. When I drive and say stop at a stop sign or light, when I transfer from the brake pedal to the accelorator and initially begin moving, I hear a slight "Thump" in the back. Could it be a sticky rear brake caliper? Bad U-joint? Sloppy ring/pinion gear? Just put AMS oil in the rear diff but have noticed slight shavings on the fill plug magnet.
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After putting my front end back together except new springs, new shocks, and new track bar, just to give everyone a little history of what I've done to it. I've had it for 8 months and maybe put 1000 miles if that because of working out of town a lot and the front end torn apart. I've noticed a louder roar coming from the rear end when taking my foot off the accelerator without pressing the brake. It feels like the tow button is engaged, but isnt. I have no issues with handling besides knowing it still needs alignment. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow for a 4 wheel alignment. It sounds and feels like I'm riding on mud terrain tires.
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I have a Motorola Maxx (not the HD model). When I tried to sync to my RX450h, it initially failed. A little online research indicated that I should load an app called "Bluetooth Phonebook" and enable BPAP. Did that and all appeared to go well - all my contacts showed up. However, on closer inspection, several contacts had one of the last 4 digits wrong.
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i have a 04 ford excursion 6.0 with the egr delete, was stopped at a light to make a left turn, when i stepped on the accelerator pedal nothing happened as the engine was just idling. i pumped the pedal around 10 times and finally got the engine to rev up. i just got this excursion and don't know to much about the maintenance on it. i am going to drain the water and change the two fuel filters. my neighbor is familiar with diesel engines and he said to look at the throttle sensor. i have run this engine up to 900 miles and it has started and run perfectly. i believe the usual maintenance like oil changes etc were done on it. would any error codes show up even though no warning lights on the dash.
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Our excursion usually sits unless we are towing or need to haul a group of people. The past three days my wife has been using it as a commuter. Yesterday she told me that two times at start-up she has heard a loud clunk/thump sound coming from the rear of the vehicle. At first she thought it was happening when she engaged the brake to put it in drive. Today she called me and told me the sound came just after start-up while the vehicle was warming up before the brake was applied. What this could be? I wish I would have observed it so I could give more details.
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Trying to diagnose the below clunk noise as the accelerator is initially pressed?
[URL] ....
If there belt tensioner wobbles like this on a 2azfe? There is a noise as you initially press the accelerator but then disappears. You can hear it in the video. I know there is a tsb on the tensioner but the belt doesn't look like its loosening off.
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1987 F-350 460 Auto Trans. Brake Pedal slowly going to the floor. Stopped at a red light yesterday on a slight down hill and I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor. I had to put the truck in Park to avoid bumping into the car in front of me. I checked brake fluid level and still at the full level, check rims for brake fluid leak from brake cylinder, none. Could my master cylinder need rebuilding or is my vacuum diaphragm going. Not sure that's what its called.
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I replaced my front pads/rotors after the dealership suggested same. I went with NAPA Ultra Premium rotors and Hawk LTS pads. I applied the high temp brake grease to the pad ends and shims, but forgot to install the two "V" spring clamps on the left front pads. The sliding caliper bolts seemed free, but I didn't clean them (I should have and will do so if I tear the brakes back down). I bedded the pads by doing 30mph to almost stops 3 or 4 times then 45mph to almost stops 1 or 2 times...not sure if that was enough based on reading other posts on how to bed.
I now have a slight squeal and not sure if it's due to a lack of those V clamps or if I didn't bed the pads correctly or other. Thoughts? Can the pads be "re-bed" if I boofed it up the first time? I'm about to do the rear rotors/pads and want to do it right.
The X stops OK, but I thought it would be more aggressive than it is with the pad/rotor combo I installed. I tow a ~8,000# TT and want good stopping power.
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On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
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Your breaks yet? Mine are starting to get really annoying, that high pitch noise at slow speeds with just a slight touch on the break peddle. To give an idea of loud, I have hearing loss from my job in the military and they are starting to bother me.
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2013 Toyota Corolla... I drive it very gently. A friend drove it briefly and after that the brake felt a bit weird like the position had changed slightly or that the pedal was a bit loose. I tried touching it with my hand and realized that it moved from side to side. Touching it made it worse. I have no problems braking, the brakes work normally.
It's just that:1) When the brake itself is not in motion/stationary, the brake pedal wiggles a little.1) I can feel motion get transmitted through the brake now, like I'll feel it when the windshield wipers move or if I change from park into drive.
I'm guessing I just need to get the bolts/screws/etc tightened. Just afraid that if they work on it, they might make it worse (since touching it made it much worse), or that they might tighten the brake back into a different position than it was in before my friend drove the car.
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I have a 2003 Eddie Bauer with the v10, the problem I am having is at random times the brake peddle will just fade away. It doesn't go all the way to the floor but pretty close. I had the master cylinder replaced and that did not fix it. I took it back in and had them bleed the entire system along with the analoc system, they tested the analoc system and said that was not the problem. Brakes did fine for about a week and has now started to fade away again.
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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Ok so I have done a complete brake overhaul with rebuilt calipers, new pads and rotors and a new master cylinder. Brakes stop on a dime and are solid when pressed firmly. When coming to a stop at a slow speed (5 mph) pedal gives in with slight clicking grinding noise. I have exhausted searches on google and here with no soild answers any clue what causes this or how to fix it?
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To all 2014 and 2015 GX 460 owners, does brake pedal have a slight modulation or vibration while press it. Feels like ABS but not as strong pumping action.
When I step on the brakes the first time feels normal and then I let go of the brakes, then I press it the second time that is when I feel a slight modulation or vibration of the brake pedal.
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I recently bought a 2013 gx and noticed a few things.
1. At high speeds 50+ mph the car downshifts quite often during rapid deceleration.
2. When coming to a near stop but not completely, and accelerate moderately to fast, lot of times there is a jerkiness when stepping on pedal initially. Is this normal or could it be something with the differential gearbox?
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I have a 2005 Excursion 4x4 Limited 6.0 diesel. I had someone pull alongside me today and tell me my brake lights were out. Sure enough. I double checked and nothing at both lower lights and also nothing at the third brake.
So... here's the short version of the things I've checked so far:
1. no brake lights when pedal depressed.
2. running lights work fine
3. turn signals work fine
4. hazards work fine
5. brake lights DO illuminate when I press the brake button on my trailer brake controller
6. checked power to the green with red tracer wire going to the brake light switch on the pedal. 12 v present continuously
7. checked power to light green wire. 12 v present when pedal is depressed. 0 v when pedal is released.
8. checked power to tail lights (wish I had tried the trailer brake controller sooner, this step would have been unnecessary). voltage present (I think 10-12 v) when the running lights were turned on. 0 v when brake pedal depressed. I suspect now that I would have 12 v when squeezing my trailer brake controller button.
I was pretty convinced it was the brake switch at the pedal. But since I'm seeing the voltage pass through the light green wire when depressed.... I know the wiring to the lights are good because they work when pressing the trailer brake controller button.
So... Do I need to dig into the multifunction switch that I've been reading about? Does the power go from the pedal switch to the multifunction, then to the trailer brake controller? I'm really hoping that I don't have to dig into the column to check that multifunction switch!
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This may be my only chance to do a step-by-step ...
Tools Required : Fingers (preferably attached to hands)
Step One : Check diver side floorboard for cleanliness (people are going to see it in the pics)
Don't worry about passenger side. There will be no pics of it.
Step Two (fingers required for steps two through seven and ten) : Vacuum driver floorboard since there will be pictures made of it.
Step Three : Remove old, worn out brake pedal cover.
Step Four : Remove aftermarket brake pedal cover from ridiculously oversized Amazon box that's still in the passenger side floorboard.
Step Five : Take a picture of the old and new covers together to make fun of the old one.
Step Six : Install new brake pedal cover.
Step Seven : Remove new brake pedal cover and re-install right side up..
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2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
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Why is there a sensor on the brake master cylinder? Most other cars and trucks I've seen have tied the cruise control into the brake light (and clutch interlock if Manual transmission.) switch so that when the pedal is depressed, the cruise control cuts out.
In the Ex, could I tap the brake pedal enough that the brake lights come on yet I don't trigger the pressure sensor in the master cylinder to cut the cruise control?
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So towed the trailer down to a remote lake side spot over the weekend, pretty bad dirt road with lots of breaking bumps. Now pushing the break pedal creates a swooshing noise, and a vibration under the hood around the master cylinder, and the power steering whines a little bit. Took it two several mechanics and 2 think it's the pump, one thinks it's the hydro booster? I tried to bleed any air out by turning the wheel all the way maxed and pushed the brakes, did nut really work, but I did notice that when pressing the brake pedal and turning the steering wheel at the same time, it becomes extremely difficult too turn the wheel, makes me think it's the pump because there is not enough pressure to do both?
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