I just came home from work and wanted to show a VW that a 3.2ton SUV could be fast with the right engine.
Ok....I won..........but it was the first time that I recognized a kind of slippage under WOT....and I was in 4WD.
That slippery feeling don't come from the wheels. What to do now besides not to race anymore until repair?
I have an 04 Excursion v10 with 170K on odometer. I am having trouble with transmission shifting into 3rd. When I take off it shifts fine to 2nd, but it will not go into 3rd as it should. I can back off throttle and re accelerate a couple of times and then it will shift fine all day long. The OD light is not blinking but I did scan for codes and there is a soft code P1741 - there is no light on dash illuminated. Just wondering if this sounds like a valve body problem or shift solenoid. I am out of town and can't ohm test solenoids til I get home.
View 4 RepliesMy 4R100 transmission just went out in my 2001 X with a 6.8 Triton in it. I am wondering if a transmission from a 5.4 is the same exact thing since it is more common.
View 12 RepliesWhere do i look for the trans ID on my 02, 7.3 ? thought there all 4r100's is that right..
View 2 RepliesToday I was 160 miles into a 250 mile drive and things were going well. I was cruising at about 75-80mph and approaching a fairly long hill of moderate grade. As I climbed the hill, my rpm was dropping, as expected before a downshift. The downshift never happened. I kept pushing more pedal and eventually, at maybe 40mph, it downshifted, but still no power. Engine being held at around 2500 rpm. No power no matter how much I pushed. Down hill I was able to resume speed but as soon as the next uphill, same thing, no power, no shift. Pulled over, it was raining hard. Checked for wet fuse box, control modules, pcm, wiring harnesses, everything dry. Checked all fuses. Disconnected battery in hopes of forcing reset, no change.
Checked trans fluid, it was clean, red, full, and unburnt. No visual wires broken or chafed. No odd smells or sounds. Nothing noticeably hot. Truck hits 45mph max on flat ground. I limped it this way for 20 miles. If I push my foot to the floor to really force a downshift, engine will rev freely up to redline with no resistance once it downshifts. If I let the rpm drop down, it will catch and lock back in. Now when I come to a stop the truck has a very lopey and rough idle and will stall once I come to a complete stop. It will stay running if I give it gas. In neutral and park the engine still has a lopey idle and is rough. Will possibly die at times. Sounds smooth and perfect when you rev it in neutral or park. Reacts as it should with no hesitations. No check engine light and no flashing OD light. Will shift into all gears, just moves through them with no power. Let truck sit for 3 hours, issue remains.
Found a puddle under the X last weekend. I thought it was the pan gasket when I got under her but much to my dismay, it was not. Fluid was actually seeping from between the extension unit and the tranny. Would this just be the gasket between the two?
View 5 RepliesI have recently found what sounds like a grinding/vibration issue that occurs between ~2100-~2300 RPM's in my truck. After some googling, I thought it may be the inspection plate being a bit bent/loose. I took the cover off and drove around and the noise still occurred.
Things I have noticed:
-Occurs between 1-2 and 2-3 (had trouble with the other gear changeovers as I just have slow backroads around me to test over my lunch break- can test further in the future)
-Occurs during acceleration and deceleration
-Starts at ~2100 and ends ~2300 RPM
Any thoughts for next steps to diagnose? Truck has ~160k on it and I don't really have many service records (purchased within the past 3k miles and problem just started occurring after this past weekend). Transmission fluid seems to be in decent condition.
Not sure if it would affect anything, but I just got back from my first trip with the Excursion where I actually needed to utilize the 4WD. There was much more aggressive terrain than what it is used to seeing on the pavement. Thought I should mention that as well.
V10, if that matters (I recall reading somewhere that '99 7.3s with the auto had documented torque converter issues that warranted a TSB)....
About 8 months and 12k miles ago I had the trans in my 2007 Explorer V6/auto completely rebuilt – now has about 89k. In the last couple of days when pulling away it has intermittently (maybe once a day) sounded like a loud fan was revving, which was accompanied by what I believe is trans slippage. Yesterday it seem to get more regular, at idle it revved itself up to about 2k rpm without moving while I was sitting at a red light, felt like the trans was slipping and then the communication section of the dashboard flashed red with a thermometer. As the warning was red, the engine temp gauge went to hot, as soon as the fan sound and slippage issue stopped (after about 10-15 seconds) the message went away and the engine temps gauge went back down to normal. What may cause this? Also, how long a dealership should warranty a its trans work?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 4wd V8 Ford Explorer Limited. About 9 months ago I had both front wheel bearings replaced. Immediately after they were replaced, I noticed a strange, new symptom. When taking off from a stop (either headed straight or turning), about 10-20% of the time I will get some wheel slippage.
I can feel the gears slipping, I don't think the tires are actually spinning and I'm definitely not flooring it and losing traction due to engine torque. When this slippage occurs, the loss of traction light goes on, and it always goes away in a matter of seconds and then everything is fine.
Once I noticed this happening I took it to the Ford dealership but they couldn't diagnose it since I couldn't mimic the problem with them riding in the car. They said it shouldn't have anything to do with the wheel bearings they replaced, but I think there may be an electrical connection that wasn't re-attached properly??
I have a 2001 F-150 4x4 SC with a 4R70W. As a a couple weeks ago the transmission (or so I think) is slipping. When I take off from a red light the truck is shuttering. I also can be driving along at 55-60 mph and the truck jolts and shutters. I was reading some other threads and some guys think it could be a misfire, but since mine does it from a stand still i don't think it is. Just throwing that out there because it could be a factor, but once again I don't know.
View 10 RepliesJust installed APR stage 1 software around 1000 miles ago. The power increase is great, though the last couple days i noticed a slight like slippage from the clutch. I dont do any burnouts. Just open it up,( full thottle) here and there. Always let the car reach operating temp before i start driving. I am afraid that the stock clutch is going to go on me. By the way the car only has 2600 miles on the odo...
View 3 RepliesI have experienced what I believe is clutch engagement failure or clutch slippage on three occasions over the last 2000 miles on my DSG equipped 2011 GTI. Twice from a complete stop the engine rev to 3000 rpm but the car did not move. I let off the gas then tried again and the car accelerated normally. Once, again when accelerating from a complete stop the car moved relatively slowly while the engine revved, the clutch then seemed to fully grab and the car accelerated normally. I plan to get the car into the dealer in the next couple of weeks but I fully expected that the service staff will not be able to replicate the problem since it occurs infrequently.
View 15 RepliesMy GTi has little over 18k on the clock and it will be a year old on Thursday. Coming back home from work last Friday i floored it @ around 3 rpm in 6th, and i got clutch slippage.
View 24 RepliesI have a stage 1+ tune, fuel pump, and intake. I ran into some clutch slippage and I decided to purchase an aftermarket clutch that was designed to mate with the OEM dual mass flywheel. I went this route because I had a single mass on my GTI and it was loud. I figured this would be a good solution to avoid the noise and be able to hold the added torque.
I broke it in as the instructions stated. After break in I gave it some throttle and I notice that there is severe slipping occurring. I have the clutch and flywheel pulled back out and sent back to the clutch manufacturer (they requested to see the flywheel despite it being the OEM one). The manufacturer states that the clutch is fine but the OEM flywheel is failing. They refurbish the clutch and ship it back to me with the flywheel. I take the flywheel to the dealer and explain that I suspect the flywheel is failing and divulge that I have some light modifications. The dealer shows me paperwork that they had behind the counter that says that any transmission issues on cars A, B, C, and D require an immediate contact to their VW rep and an opening of some type of file on the failure (forget what they called it). What's on the top of the list? The Golf R of course. They go on to tell me that they need the car to start this process and they will do nothing with the removed flywheel that I brought to them.
So at this point, my car is in pieces at the shop that I use and I've been without it for going on a month. I will also, obviously, end up having to pay double the labor for the install. I am also going to be out some more money to come up with a viable solution as I still don't have a functional flywheel. So what do I do?
I could purchase another OEM flywheel for about $800. My concern here is the OEM flywheel busting up again and being in exactly the same spot that I am in now. I could purchase a new aftermarket clutch and flywheel combo and scrap the hope of avoiding the noise and sell the refurbished clutch I have to try to recoup some of the losses. Not sure what other options I have, if any.
Needless to say, I am feeling pretty unhappy about this whole thing. I've landed in a place where I am going to end up shelling out twice as much cash as I should have to get a clutch in my car. Burning a couple of grand to get absolutely no benefit stings more than a little.
Over the past few weeks we have not driven the Touareg as much and noticed something new. On cold start, after sitting for 1-2 days the transmission seems to slip when going from Park to reverse. Once in reverse, I apply throttle, the tack goes up, but the Treg does not move . It takes 2-5 seconds for it to go, then it smoothly starts to pull, slow at first and then catches up. Once I am backed out of the garage (25-30 FT), I shift to drive and there is no more slipping until the next cold start.
I called the dealership and they told me this was normal. I took it in for an overnight stay so they can experience it in the morning after sitting overnight. I also asked that the Transmission fluid be checked since the engine was in and out twice and it had a leaky seal. We have put in the neighborhood of 70-80K miles on the 4 Touaregs we have owned and I don't ever remember this symptom or problem.
Went APR low output stage 1 on my 2016 GTI PP 6MT W/ Less then 5k miles on it. Clutch immediately started slipping in high torque situations.
View 4 RepliesI know the serp belts were done on my 1.8T passat 25k miles ago. The tensioners were not done, of course.
While the engine is still cool I sometimes hear belt slippage on take off or throttle change. I was thinking to just replace the serp belts but then it occurred to me that it could be one of the tensioners causing the problem.
Are the tensioners prone to failure? Or I should just change belts? Car has 92k miles on it total.
I around 1200 miles. The car would get going when i give it gas but it feels as if their was shifting lag or slipage. Only in first gear. Doesn't happen all the tho..usually happens on rolling stops... is this normal?
View 6 RepliesI installed a new clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel at 154,000 and I'm now just over 155,000. I drove it very conservatively for at least 1,000 miles, and had no issues whatsoever.
Now, after sitting for a day, starting off in first gear, I'll get some clutch chatter. Outside of first starting out in 1st, every other gear is solid. And the 1st gear chatter tends to get better as the car is driven longer.
Secondly, it happened today, I'm getting what I thought I experienced before as clutch slippage in 5th gear: I'll lose acceleration as if the clutch is slipping, but the revs won't spike even if I tap the throttle. If I come off for a second and go back on, everything is fine. It doesn't make sense that's it's slipping as it's brand news.
It also seems to happen when it's been rainy or wet, but that could be all in my head.
I have replaced a bad module in the HV battery and balanced it. Inverter coolant pump has been checked and inverter coolant has been replaced. Engine coolant has been drained and refilled. (Both coolant jobs followed Haynes manual guide including bleeder valves.) Transaxle fluid is full.
After each step of troubleshooting I have done a test-drive. Warnings come on consistently within 2-2.5 miles, day or night. I do not have a scan tool, but I do have the trouble codes from Toyota (all prior to my repairs). Is it possible that a bad ECT sensor could trigger all of this?? Is there something else I can check?
I have 2001 E350 Van. One quirk.... When I put the van in Reverse, the engine drops to very low RPM and nearly stalls. This does not happen in Drive.
Transmission is out for repair now for other reasons (for a damaged pump). What can cause this near stalling? What do I look for as far as cause & repair?