Golf/GTI VI :: Clutch Engagement Failure Or Slippage
Jun 25, 2011
I have experienced what I believe is clutch engagement failure or clutch slippage on three occasions over the last 2000 miles on my DSG equipped 2011 GTI. Twice from a complete stop the engine rev to 3000 rpm but the car did not move. I let off the gas then tried again and the car accelerated normally. Once, again when accelerating from a complete stop the car moved relatively slowly while the engine revved, the clutch then seemed to fully grab and the car accelerated normally. I plan to get the car into the dealer in the next couple of weeks but I fully expected that the service staff will not be able to replicate the problem since it occurs infrequently.
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So I was living in Texas for the past 4 months and noticed my clutch started to act up. It was sticking at the engagement point and sometimes I would need to pull the pedal up with my foot. Also sometimes when I was engaging the clutch, the pressure on my foot from the pedal would suddenly disappear. I had an hour commute to and from work when I was down there and frequently was in stop-and-go traffic.
Fast forward to now, I am back up in New York. It is much colder here and I don't drive nearly as much. I took it into the dealership to have it looked at. My car sat for a day before the tech could take it for a drive. I received a call saying that the problem could not be replicated and everything seemed fine. I picked my car up and it hasn't happened as frequently as before but it is still doing it. I think it has something to do with temperature.
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My GTi has little over 18k on the clock and it will be a year old on Thursday. Coming back home from work last Friday i floored it @ around 3 rpm in 6th, and i got clutch slippage.
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I have a stage 1+ tune, fuel pump, and intake. I ran into some clutch slippage and I decided to purchase an aftermarket clutch that was designed to mate with the OEM dual mass flywheel. I went this route because I had a single mass on my GTI and it was loud. I figured this would be a good solution to avoid the noise and be able to hold the added torque.
I broke it in as the instructions stated. After break in I gave it some throttle and I notice that there is severe slipping occurring. I have the clutch and flywheel pulled back out and sent back to the clutch manufacturer (they requested to see the flywheel despite it being the OEM one). The manufacturer states that the clutch is fine but the OEM flywheel is failing. They refurbish the clutch and ship it back to me with the flywheel. I take the flywheel to the dealer and explain that I suspect the flywheel is failing and divulge that I have some light modifications. The dealer shows me paperwork that they had behind the counter that says that any transmission issues on cars A, B, C, and D require an immediate contact to their VW rep and an opening of some type of file on the failure (forget what they called it). What's on the top of the list? The Golf R of course. They go on to tell me that they need the car to start this process and they will do nothing with the removed flywheel that I brought to them.
So at this point, my car is in pieces at the shop that I use and I've been without it for going on a month. I will also, obviously, end up having to pay double the labor for the install. I am also going to be out some more money to come up with a viable solution as I still don't have a functional flywheel. So what do I do?
I could purchase another OEM flywheel for about $800. My concern here is the OEM flywheel busting up again and being in exactly the same spot that I am in now. I could purchase a new aftermarket clutch and flywheel combo and scrap the hope of avoiding the noise and sell the refurbished clutch I have to try to recoup some of the losses. Not sure what other options I have, if any.
Needless to say, I am feeling pretty unhappy about this whole thing. I've landed in a place where I am going to end up shelling out twice as much cash as I should have to get a clutch in my car. Burning a couple of grand to get absolutely no benefit stings more than a little.
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I am a new 2016 GTI 6 MT S model owner.
I have been driving manual cars for more than 10 years. In manual cars, the engine rev generally drops slightly at engagement point, but in the GTI I noticed that the engine maintains rather slightly increases the rev automatically while engaging clutch in 1st or reverse if the gas pedal is not pressed. It is also very audible as the engine sound changes (increases).
Also I have noticed significant clutch engagement judder if I take off by pushing the gas.
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Went APR low output stage 1 on my 2016 GTI PP 6MT W/ Less then 5k miles on it. Clutch immediately started slipping in high torque situations.
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I installed a new clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel at 154,000 and I'm now just over 155,000. I drove it very conservatively for at least 1,000 miles, and had no issues whatsoever.
Now, after sitting for a day, starting off in first gear, I'll get some clutch chatter. Outside of first starting out in 1st, every other gear is solid. And the 1st gear chatter tends to get better as the car is driven longer.
Secondly, it happened today, I'm getting what I thought I experienced before as clutch slippage in 5th gear: I'll lose acceleration as if the clutch is slipping, but the revs won't spike even if I tap the throttle. If I come off for a second and go back on, everything is fine. It doesn't make sense that's it's slipping as it's brand news.
It also seems to happen when it's been rainy or wet, but that could be all in my head.
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Just installed APR stage 1 software around 1000 miles ago. The power increase is great, though the last couple days i noticed a slight like slippage from the clutch. I dont do any burnouts. Just open it up,( full thottle) here and there. Always let the car reach operating temp before i start driving. I am afraid that the stock clutch is going to go on me. By the way the car only has 2600 miles on the odo...
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In most other manual tranny cars that I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Not my accent. is it possible to adjust the clutch pedal so that engagement isn't so far away from the floor? it pretty much fully engages at the near top of the pedal.
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I have a 2012 2.5 with auto trans and am experiencing a problem. After coming to a stop and easing pressure from the brake pedal, if you re-apply pressure you feel a harsh engagement of the transmission, feels like you put it in neutral and then back in drive. Sometimes it will do it while stopped with no change in pedal pressure and feels like someone rear ended you.
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I have a 24v GLI with the O2M 6-speed trans. This morning while leaving for work I accidently let the clutch out while in gear and my e-brake still on. Heard a really loud bang and the engine didn't stall out (which it should have). Now I have no engagement in any gear and there is a very loud clicking that changes with RPMs. Did I blow the CV joint, or is this something much worse (blown diff, destroyed clutch, etc.)??? I'm border-line freaking out!
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The A/C on our 2007 Nissan Altima went a year ago. Our trusty mechanic diagnosed the problem and replaced the clutch, which is now past the one-year warranty. The A/C has now became intermittent, and the mechanic's best assessment is that the recent clutch has also failed, but he has no clue about an underlying cause, if any. His recommendation to get the A/C running again is to replace the clutch again, assuming that it is the source of the problem. He advises that this is the only way to determine if it is in fact the cause or something else highly obscure is behind the clutch failure. What should we do about the A/C and clutch?
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We are in need of a 4th clutch for our 2004 Elantra. This is a despicable record for Hyundai.
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I bought a new clutch master cylinder for my 1960 Land Rover. I have swapped these in and out and rebuilt or replaced them many times over the years. This is the first time I've seen one fail this way, and it is brand new out of the box. In my opinion, the seal at the back of the cylinder that is supposed to close off the reservoir from the inside of the cylinder, well, isn't. So, it is pushing fluid up into the reservoir instead of down through the lines. Have a look at a this video...... [URL] ....
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I have an 2002 Dodge Dakota 8 cyl. 4.7 L engine, 272K. I've gone through 4 fan clutches in the last 2 years and could have gone through more. My mechanic can't figure out why. I've replaced all hoses, radiator, water pump, T-stats, you name it. AC doesn't work either. Probably just a leak. Not sure yet. Why they keep dying on me.
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Our 1999 CRV has had the clutch fail several times in the past year. The pattern is that you notice it slipping a bit now and then, but trending worse over a few days. Then it gets dramatically worse in a period of minutes: it does not engage fully when let out. The pedal feels fine, the engine is running fine, but power is not transmitted to the wheels.
On two occasions, we were able to take it directly and the mechanic resolved the problem with some adjustment to the master cylinder, or something like that (my wife spoke to the mechanic and it was many months ago).
Last winter, I was driving as the problem was recurring and I found myself nursing the slipping clutch up a steep one mile grade. At the top of the hill, totally flat ground, the problem continued to get worse for the next half mile, till there was no power at all! Engine fine, pedal action fine, but effectively the clutch was permanently disengaged. I left the car there over night. The next morning, before calling for a tow, I tried again and the clutch was working! I could tell it was still slipping a bit, but it was no problem to drive to the mechanic, who fixed the problem again for just a hundred bucks or so.
Yesterday, my wife again found that the clutch failed completely over the course of a few miles driving. She had to be towed. Today the mechanic says they can't reproduce the problem!
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2004 pontiac vibe GT, 6-speed standard, bought used, 120K miles. 5 weeks after ownership, car running very well, 16 year old driver driving at 60 mph in 5th gear, mistakedly downshifts into third..resulted in an immediate oil pump failure and cluth failure. No loss of oil, Oil pump came out literally in a dozen peices and looked like someone hit with a sledge hammer. Of course, no insurance coverage.Is this a normal response to high rpm event like this?
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I just came home from work and wanted to show a VW that a 3.2ton SUV could be fast with the right engine.
Ok....I won..........but it was the first time that I recognized a kind of slippage under WOT....and I was in 4WD.
That slippery feeling don't come from the wheels. What to do now besides not to race anymore until repair?
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From time to time, the first time the car is started in a day, the transmission (4T60E, 1993) may take several ............ seconds before first engagement, either in forward or reverse. Fluid level OK, color OK, filter changed 2/3 years ago. This began just a few months ago. After that, everything will work flawlessly for all the day , no problem at all, all shifts OK, all subsequent starts OK.
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Over the past few weeks we have not driven the Touareg as much and noticed something new. On cold start, after sitting for 1-2 days the transmission seems to slip when going from Park to reverse. Once in reverse, I apply throttle, the tack goes up, but the Treg does not move . It takes 2-5 seconds for it to go, then it smoothly starts to pull, slow at first and then catches up. Once I am backed out of the garage (25-30 FT), I shift to drive and there is no more slipping until the next cold start.
I called the dealership and they told me this was normal. I took it in for an overnight stay so they can experience it in the morning after sitting overnight. I also asked that the Transmission fluid be checked since the engine was in and out twice and it had a leaky seal. We have put in the neighborhood of 70-80K miles on the 4 Touaregs we have owned and I don't ever remember this symptom or problem.
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I bought my '07 Passat 2.0T Wagon as a CPOVW 6 weeks ago. It had 4700 miles on it. I complained about the transmission having a delayed engagement when shifting into reverse and drive. (it drives normally however with positive shifts and is very enjoyable) I was told it was normal and not to worry. (could it be designed-in to soften the engagement?).
This week I noticed a light "thunk" in the right front when re-applying power while coasting below 40 MPH. I never noticed it before but I usually strive for smooth driving so that may be why. I've had other Aisin Warners but they were in Volvos. I got out of a '99 Volvo Cross Country because I didn't trust the driveline. Am I going down the same road?
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