I'm going to replace the rotors & pads on the X, was doing some research and read where slotted and drilled rotors actually create weak points in the rotor for vehicles this heavy.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 Infiniti G35x. I just replaced the stock rotors with EBC slotted rotors and "green stuff" pads. The brakes work great - much better than my old worn out stock brakes. The problem I'm having is when breaking at a slow rate (say slowing from 20 to 0 at a stop sign) I feel a pulsation/vibration (it's not a sound, I can't hear it, just a feeling) in the front rotors. It's not a warpped rotor feeling, and it doesn't happen at higher speeds. The best I could describe it is the feeling you get when you ABS kick in - only much more subtle. So my question is - is this normal? One mechanic said I was feeling the slots as they went around.
View 19 RepliesI replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
View 4 RepliesSo towed the trailer down to a remote lake side spot over the weekend, pretty bad dirt road with lots of breaking bumps. Now pushing the break pedal creates a swooshing noise, and a vibration under the hood around the master cylinder, and the power steering whines a little bit. Took it two several mechanics and 2 think it's the pump, one thinks it's the hydro booster? I tried to bleed any air out by turning the wheel all the way maxed and pushed the brakes, did nut really work, but I did notice that when pressing the brake pedal and turning the steering wheel at the same time, it becomes extremely difficult too turn the wheel, makes me think it's the pump because there is not enough pressure to do both?
View 5 RepliesMy brakes sometimes feel like the rotors are warped. The problem is that it isn't consistent. I remember how the original rotors warped and they were crap so I put some drilled and slotted rotors on about 150,000 miles ago. Currently but not all of the time it acts like the current rotors are warped, the steering wheel will move back and forth, feel the shake in the vehicle. But today running a few errands at lunch, there was no wobble etc. I might go ahead and replace the rotors/pads but want to be sure that is the issue. Could it be the hydroboost on the 7.3? ABS?
View 6 RepliesRecently bought a 2001 Excursion 4x4 but failed to take it on the highway and get it up to speed. It shakes real bad around 65 but I can't tell exactly where the shake comes from. Here is what I've fixed so far. Balanced tires, Alignment, Fixed Steering Linkage, Balanced rear drive shaft, new shocks, new brake pads (slightly warped rotors but shakes w/o braking), lubed everything, replaced all fluids except transmission which was clean, no metal in any fluids, removed front driveshaft. Checked wheel bearing as best as I can.
View 5 RepliesFront caliper replacements--fwd? Person I bought this from said they'd just relined the brakes before I got it. After having it a week, I randomly checked torgue on lug nuts...a whopping 80 ft lbs. So now I have the vibrating rotors. When I back up I hear scraping like a bad set of bicycle brakes against an out of round rim. The pads are pretty thick. I bought new rotors and pads but I wonder if I shouldn't get calipers as well. This X likes to bite me in the butt--something simple is always about 5 times more complicated than anticipated.
View 1 RepliesI'm having the bumper cover replaced on my 350 (stupid mistake on a number of fronts it's starting to look like...) and the indy shop that I chose in my town to do the job (Lexus dealer is 100 miles away and this shop was recommended by the guys that take care of all the Lambos/Ferraris/Porsches etc) told me that they had to drill the holes in the bumper cover to retro fit the sensors. Is this correct?
View 2 RepliesAfter replacing the engine, clutch and pressure plate. Where the brake booster hooks up to create a vacuum, as I now have a very hard to push brake pedal, if indeed that is my problem. The pedal will not go down more than one half inch.
View 5 RepliesWhen I'm driving at night and look out the back, the headlights of cars create a vertical streak of light, which have accents from the defroster lines.
View 5 RepliesI recently just purchased my 2010 Prius and the first mod I did was add new projectors/HID's. Upon ordering this kit I did not get the relay harness.
I also would like to add I drove my car around with my headlights out to see if a bulb out warning would come on and nothing. Also, if we add LED's to turn signals will this create a hyper flash?
My problem started five months ago and was very intermittent until now. The engine would run rough at start up either cold of hot and then run fine after about two or three miles. Now it runs rough all the time. I have installed a new ignition coil, new spark plug wires and new spark plugs. The engine starts ok but it runs rough and when I pull the spark plug wires one at a time,while it is running, the spark is very weak on cylinders 2 and 4. The spark on the other two cylinders looks good. I have checked the connector on the powertrain control module, which is a EEC-V, and there doesn't seem to be any bad connections there.
View 6 RepliesI have 06 ford explorer in which the air comes out the main vents really weak! I've replaced the Blend Door Actuator thinking that would fix the problem but it didn't . The blower motor works the air gets cold and hot and the defroster and floor vents is where the air comes out strong.
View 3 Replieswhile trying to diagnose a check engine light. 2003 4.2 2WD Manual F-150. 135,000 miles.
Some background:
-I have changed the lower O2's fairly recently, but not the uppers
-Never changed MAF
-I checked for vacuum leaks in the last 18 months, none found
I pulled some freeze frame data after my hour long ride to work today, and this is what I have. Where I should go from here?? Truck seems to be running fine, but just "weak" when it comes to acceleration. There is smooth ideal and cruising. I am getting 20.2 mpg, mostly highway miles.
P0171
Fuelsys1 CL
Fuelsys2 --
Load Pct 87.5
ECT 188F
SHRTFT1 5.5%
LongFT1 28.9%
SHRTFT2 1.6%
LongFT2 28.1%
RPM 2115
VSS 50 mph
If there is other data you might need, I can pull it. I think I had a 0.01 lb/s reading on MAF when I did a separate test. That was likely at idle though.
My 03' 6.0l hpop only makes about 1700 psi at wot, at hot idle the ipr is 25.1 and the icp is about 580. It runs pretty good but it seems the crank time to start is getting a little longer sometimes, other times it fires right up. It makes no difference if its hot or cold. Do pumps get weak or do you think I have a leak?....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F-250 with the 6.0 egr has been deleted and so on. Truck has been very trustworthy until now... It all started last week. I would get in and it would fire right up, drive 15 miles to work all is still good. Time to go home try to start and it would act like the batteries were weak with a weak crank until it finally takes off and starts. This intermittent situation has been happening but I just assumed that the batteries were going bad. I drove to work this morning truck fired right up and now that it is time to go home the truck only has a weak crank and wont fire up. I tested the batteries and they were low on cranking amps.
Replaced them with two new batteries. The issue still exists and didn't change. After reading through threads I found that it could be the FICM I checked it out as was shown through the other threads. With the key on only it was reading 51 vdc with someone trying to start the truck it was reading 48-50 vdc... Yes the truck does have fuel in it and yes the oil is good to. It seems that there is something electrical going on for sure due to the way it has been an intermittent problem for a week or so. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade but can fix anything if I know where to start.
On my 2013 Platinum the passenger's seat seems weak on the cooling versus the drivers. It still works on the passenger's side just not very cool. Is the AC cooling just a fan pushing air through the small holes in the leather seats?
View 13 RepliesTruck had a check engine light that came on. Plugged in scanner while I was still running it, said egr volts were weak, i just cleaned it yesterday.. and earlier today reset the check engine light once but then drove about 30 miles with no reoccurrence of light. Now i pulled over, shut off truck unplugged egr and reconnected. Went back to start my truck and nothing at all. Its like I am trying to start it in park.....been here for about 3 hrs now I've checked fuses nothing is blown. I am just sitting here freezing trying to fig out anything i can on line....... Its a 2006 f350 6.0 ty
View 14 RepliesMy truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
2008 F250 Lariat ... A/C is blowing real weak in all modes and temperatures. Did some reading and found that the evaporator and heater core could be clogged. I am just going to go ahead and assume taking the dash out of the truck and replacing both heater core and evap core would be the best fix. On to my question.. Where are the main mounting points for the dash?
View 2 RepliesOn my 86' 740 the cranking has been kinda lengthy and a bit weak as if the battery is going bad. I finally had an episode where the cranking and the start was stranding me. After three attempts and keeping the throttle wide opened it started. What is now strange is the crank is strong and faster as if something broke loose or got reset.
View 1 Replies