I did a CCV MOD and washed the engine with simple green and a garden hose yesterday, started the truck and it was running fine for about 10 min. After that it started spattering and a P1280 code poped up. Is it related to a wash or ccv? It does not stoll but idles bad, drives fine once i get it over about 5mph.
View 1 Replies2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
View 12 RepliesI have not yet managed to fix the Ex, i have replaced the CPS with a Delphi 101 cps, and the ICP sensor. The truck ran great for almost 3 hours, but then started acting up again. Codes I pull are P1000 and P1280.
The p1280 code is probably from a loose connector, i got injection pressure of 728psi constant at idle and during low rpms, will fix that tomorrow, but that is probably not what causes the hiccup, but if my new one is function correctly, then i might be something else? The old was from stock and had an oily connector, i have replaced the pigtail though.
The funny thing is, that when i open the hood, the rpms will climb up around 200rpms at idle, to right under 1000rpms, it will do this slowly, takes about 10 seconds. Close the hood and it goes back to normal, so maybe a vacuum leak? When i slam the hood shut, it will sometimes do the hiccup. I have managed to loose 2 of the bolts to the valve cover, but it sits tightly.
Really lost on this truck, what can cause this hiccup, when it does it, the water-fuel light comes on (got a new filter in it). I also have a check engine light, but if i delete the codes when its running, it goes away until startup again.
Another thing i have noticed is that the truck is slower to start then normal, before i got this problem, the truck would start right up when turning the key, now i have to crank it for about a second more.
My 02 f250 w/ 7.3 won't start. Cranks and nothing. No smoke or anything. For the last year It has had a intermittent starting problem, where I would drive it for 15-20 mins. If I shut it off like I would if I was at the fuel pump and then restart it, it wouldn't. I'd have to wait 30 minutes with a hood open and then it may start. Other times I would have to wait hours.
I tried replacing the crank position sensor, the fuel pump and filter.I did all this in the Last 300 mile . There's No change. After a week or two of sitting it won't start. What can I check and what can I try.
To add more info. Since I am not the original owner I pulled the computer that is located behind the ebrake to see if someone else had installed a chip, as I've heard that if that chip goes bad then the truck won't start. I disconnected that battery and pulled it. Negative on any chip. Put it all back together and tried again. No start. I borrowed a code reader tonight and pulled a P1280 code. I'm back to square one.
2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
View 1 RepliesOn the way home tonight, the O/D light started flashing. I happened to have the Bluetooth OBD adapter with me, so I plugged it in and opened Torque. It comes up with a "pending" code of P0743. After a little bit, the light quit flashing so we drove the last mile home. The O/D light began flashing again the last couple hundred feet before our driveway. There didn't seem to be any loss of power or anything like that the whole time.
After we got the kids to bed I went back out to check the fluid level. (It had cooled some, so I let it run a bit before I checked it - the light wasn't flashing this time.) The level is at the second dot, right below the crosshatch. It's almost transparent, but I don't know when it was last flushed (if ever). From what I've seen on here, I'm guessing this is an electrical short somewhere?
I've got a 2004 6.8L Excursion (about 124k mileage). Was gassed up yesterday, today the emissions light popped on. I checked the fuel cap and it was on tight. Any other easy things to check before I head down to Advanced Auto to see if they can pop it on the diagnostic machine?
View 5 RepliesSo the rear defroster tab has popped off the window. I purchased this kit from O'Reillys but when I clipped the wire back onto the tab it popped the tab right back off. I even waited 48 hours instead of 24 so it had plenty of time to set, even with the cooler temperatures. Okay, so I forgot about it until I took the stroller out and noticed the trim laying in the back of the X... but still, plenty of time to bond well. I'm thinking of calling a glass shop & seeing what they'll charge to reattach.
View 2 RepliesLast year my car popped up with the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light. I am cheap so I went out and bought a code reader- code 1443 came up. Online I found this information: 1443-Evaporative Emission Control System - Vacuum System - Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve fault. I bought something from Ford for $81, erased the code and it came back on a week later. I just kept erasing it. It quit coming back on in November so I figured the bulb had burned out but the Light came on when I started the car. So I just ignored it. Now that the weather has warmed up again the light comes back on with the same code. Other question. Are there any modern cars that are as easy to work on as, say, a 68 Falcon? Or even a 74 Pinto? I don't expect real ease I just want to be able to stick my hand in the engine compartment with a blood sacrifice.
View 1 RepliesI have a '97 XLT, 5.0 and the error code for the O2 sensors has popped up, when checking it shows there isn't voltage for the heater circuits. I see there are 3 different heater circuits, 1ea for the left & right O2 sensors and a common one for the catalytic converter O2 sensors, so I ordered another PCM.
View 14 Replies2004 XLT 3.0L 141K
I just bought the truck on Monday, the CEL popped up on Tues. It shows code 0136. No other codes. CAT "not ready" on scan tool
A google search proved this is a common topic that for some owners is a repeating and cronic sort of issue. What I've read online is that there is an assortment of things that can cause this O2 sensor to throw this code:
Actual bad O2 sensor
Faulty wiring or connection
Misfire throwing mix off
bad convertor
I don't believe this list covers all the accounts I read but these I have were definitely repeat offenders. My intention is to take to a dealer and let them have first crack at sorting it out. I'm handy enough but I see this as something where an unseen detail can drive ya crazy.
I have a 2015 SRW f350 and has been fairly problem free. Last Thursday I was driving home and I received the reduced engine power and code popped up P0088, high pressure fuel rail issue.. anyway, I just popped over 36k miles, the truck is at 36,278 miles, so I take it in thinking they will goodwill it.
I get a call saying they can't clear the code and the TCM AND PCM can't communicate and they have to reach out to Ford engineering. They find the PCM is corrupt, they call me twice and ask if the truck has been tuned, the answer is no, but then pin me against the wall saying I am the second owner, which I am, and that it could have been tuned prior. I tell them to prove it, you can see if there has been a tune. The truck truly has never been tuned, it was sold at Ford factory auction as a employee vehicle.
Now they are trying to tell me the corruption was due to the tune, which it never had. But they won't goodwill it and say I am responsible for all the diag and work done, I say no. I say this should be a warranty issue and should be covered, they say it was tuned, I told them to prove it.
I have a 2005 Santa Fe with the 2.7l engine....during the last two summers I've had this code pop up only to disappear. Well, we're into the winter here in New York and the code popped up again and after a week its still on. What's causing this and are there any easy fixes? The wife loves the SUV, its got 120,000 miles on her, the engine is strong and the tranny was rebuilt this summer (that another story).
View 1 RepliesMy '97 es300 (133k) popped up with a po773 code last night. I've read through a lot of threads and it doesn't seem like this is something i'll be able to fix right away. Should I go ahead and get a quick drain and fill?
Three starts later I turned on the car and it was off, quickly shut the car off and restarted and it was back on. About three starts since and it's been on every time. Although rare, this suggests intermittent? electrical?
Have a 2001 V6. Notice a check engine light popped on and thats the code I got. I do have a custom cat back exhaust. Left both cats on there just took out rear muffler and resonator and then put in glass pack. Wondering if this is something that is cause by the catback exhaust? I have had the exhaust on for some time, few hundred miles. How to replace this?
View 13 RepliesP0420 bank 1 code popped up while driving. Im thinking this is just an oxygen sensor? Is it ok to drive with this code for a while if i buy an o2 sensor online?
View 5 RepliesLast night on my way to go get hammered the check engine light popped on...
"Cooling System Performance"
I have read a few different post, and the last one I read referred to his radiator fans. I know for a fact one of them isn't working and I haven't replaced it yet because it hasn't advisable effected my driving.
So my question is what could be causing this? Also I'm not sure if this matters but my a/c doesn't work either.
2002... 184,000+ miles
I was driving the car and triangle popped up and engine would not shut off while parked (key on) I hooked up the non prius aware scanner (carry one with me at all times) and don't remember the code, but it was a "HV malfunction".
I didn't shut the car off to clear the code as I was not home and attempted to drive it home, meanwhile engine never shut off. I had to come to a complete stop at a red light and the car died. tried restarting it but nothing. so I pushed it off to the side of the road and cleared the code. Tried again and nothing. didn't start, nothing. it beeped and error code popped up. Checked the code and it was p3125.
I know there are subcodes but online it was leading to inverter. but I replaced the inverter last year with a re involt. I had the car towed to my job for $50, to have it towed home, would cost roughly $168. When I got it to work, I did the screen thing and checked the 12v battery and it was reading 10.9 I have been meaning to get a new one for about a year now so I did.
I purchased a new optima battery and installed it yesterday, cleared the codes, tried to start it and nothing. error code p3125. What leads me to believe that it may be a transaxle, well actually a Mg2 is when my inverter went bad, it would start then shudder and die then the triangle would pop up. this time around, it doesn't even start. I have an appointment with the dealership to get the code with subcode read on Tuesday 10/15 for $98.7.
I just changed the timing belt on my sisters car and finished yesterday and drove it today. A check engine light came on so I went to check it out and P0016 popped up. I've done some research and people say that it might be that the timing belt is misaligned or loose. I tightened the belt not too tight but not too loose. Note: I also spilled coolant on the crankshaft pulley and a bit on the belt itself. The car idles rough when driving too. I will tomorrow take off the cover and check the tension of the belt.
View 9 RepliesNow, I just bought a 07 Yukon which seems to be in a great condition. The check engine light just popped up so I went to a mechanic and he said the code is p0455.
He did a smoke test and showed me that smoke is coming out of the rear of the vehicle at the gas tank area and the car needs the vent valve solenoid changed, but it's only sold at dealer.
So u went to dealer and got this part and decided to change it myself which was quite easy and fun.
I went back to clear the light, then a week later the light came back on, so I went back to him thinking maybe I didn't do it right, so he did another smoke test and sure enough we see smoke coming out of the rear again, so I looked under the car and saw it was coming out of the end of the vent valve assembly which I think is a small air filter. Is that normal? Or is the part defective?
I own a 2001 BMW 325i. I bought it in 2011, it was in excellent condition, except for a small oil leak. I fixed the leak and then everything started happening. I've replaced so many things in this car that I've actually put more in to it then what I paid for it. This last issue was a rough idle and the scanner was showing me the code for a misfire. I took it in to the mechanic, he found that it was the first injector, replaced it, the night I picked it up it was still doing the same thing...engine light popped on. I brought it back the next day, they kept it for over a week, running test after test, finally they did an internal survey and found that the first cylinder is damaged and the shop has condemned the engine. My question is this: Is there no way to repair a cylinder? How or why does this happen and how much longer can I drive the car before it craps out on me. So far, it is rough when it's cold..but once it warms up it rides just fine. Engine light comes on and then goes off.
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