Ford Excursion :: Trac-lock Not Locking Up?
May 8, 2012
I instead rebuilt the factory trac-lock...well I need more lock....
In the slow crawling I do to get in and out of the camping/hunting/fishing spot with the wife and kids the trac lock just does not lock up well enough.
It I get on it and get it spinning then it will lock up enough but then I fear parts will break, I prefer to slow crawl.
I had my Bronco locked up with Detroit's but I cant do that here it is my DD
So I am back looking at lockable diffs.
I have used ARB and they work well but I came across this Eaton E-Locker. I only saw it for the rear though.
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Renee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
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I've got the clutch pack rebuild kit for this diff and I'm trying to figure out how to do this without all the special tools. I found this post from a guy who did the job:
Sterling 10.25 Trac lock rebuild
This is a great post, but I can't figure out what he's doing with this "all thread" (is this just threaded rod??) to get the spider gears back in. How does this compress the spring plate in the clutch pack? I don't get it.
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About a year ago I put in a new lock motor and it worked fine for a while but has stopped working. Is it the lock motor or something else? It unlocks but won't lock. There is not latch indicator on the upper hatch so it stayed unlocked without me knowing it.
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I have seen pictures of other hub lock cups that have Allen bolts to remove - mine do not have any fasteners - how can they be removed - do the just pry off?
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And the vacuum pump was replaced.
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The 2000 X I have has Warn locking hubs on them. Just to be clear, I'd need to switch them to 'lock' then choose either 4-Hi or 4-Low on the dash in order to engage the transfer case, correct?
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Had the two batteries disconnected on the 2002 Excursion (7.3). Once reconnected, the door actuators all repeatedly lock. They all click every 5 - 10 seconds. Sometimes they click every second for about 5 seconds.
I can't actuate ANY of the door locks on the truck, the switches seem dead. Also, the "door open" LED in the dash is lit. The "THEFT" light is blinking fast as well.
I've disconnected the batteries again several times to see if I can reset whatever is going on. I am keeping a spare key in my pocket because I will get locked out otherwise.
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I locked my 2013, and noticed there was a delay in the single beep when I locked it, Weird, went on with my day. I just tried to lock it again, and there was no beep or signal light flash. I tried my other FOB, same thing. Unlocking works just fine. I tried turning the car on and back off again, no dice.
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On my new to me '03 Excursion (I've owned it for 1.5 weeks now), I'm starting to get through the 1st level of issues (Wandering - fixed, Speedo/ABS issue - still working on that, changing the rear diff fluid this week, hopefully).
Now, I want to look into why the manually locking hubs won't turn. When I brought it up to the Previous Owner, who was about as mechanically inclined as my Golden Retreiver, he said "these are auto locking hubs. I never turned those things before".
They are frozen in the non-locked position, so I have to pray that I never need to actually manually lock them.
Any lucky experience at un-freezing stuck hubs? I've started the liberal application of PB Blaster process.
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Driving home today I started smelling a burnt clutch smell!
Well since I have an automatic, I wasn't to worried until my 6 yr old gets out when we get home and says "DAD something stinks really bad out here!"
Get out and wow!! I have never had a caliper lock up on any vehicle I have ever owned! It stunk like I burnt a clutch out of a standard tranny!
So I start poking around and the left rear caliper is locked up, rotor is blue and you can hear it popping like a valve spring cooling down.
So my question is is there anything to look for other than the normal? I will be getting the brake system power bleed after I replace the caliper. I already checked the brake lines and there are no obvious issues. It is possible the rubber inner lining is toast.
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I just recently purchased a 2000 Excursion and had some questions up in another thread. After doing some diagnosing....I have a couple of questions about the auto locking hubs. The problem I have is that even with the vacuum line disconnected from the knuckle and no vacuum...the hubs won't unlock in auto/2wd. I confirmed that the knuckle and the hubs will hold vacuum when I hooked my vacuum pump up to it and it held vacuum (the fitting should be clear as I heard the hub making some sounds). I'm getting ready to pull the hubs to clean and re-grease them. My question is that being they are still locked....will it be any harder to pull them off the spindle and after disassembling them/cleaning them.....when I re-install them....will they be unlocked by default after putting them back on the spline as they have been pulled apart and reassembled?
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My daughter has a 2001 S60. She's noticed lately that when she pushes the lock button on the key fob that the driver's door does not lock.
The other three doors lock, and the alarm sets. Not sure if I just need to get the shop to pull the door panel and lubricate it, or if it may be more serious.
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I own a 2006 Hyundai Azera and for the last year, I've had a door lock issue. My driver's side door lock will not lock the door. It sometimes engages it slightly so I don't think it is electrical. It happened after I accidentally left the windows cracked during summer and there was a huge t-storm from which some rain water got on the door lock mechanism. Could it be the door lock actuator or perhaps a spring got loose?
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Its an electrical issue.
I have a couple issues that have been bothering me lately. The drivers door lock is intermittent to lock when trying to lock it with the remote or the auto locking when going a certain speed. To get it to lock, I either have to unlock the entire car with the door switch then it will lock with the switch, or unlocking the car with the remote before hitting the lock button. It will also relock itself even if I opened the door and is sitting in the seat, just like if you unlock it and don't open the door it relocks.
My car alarm horn is not working, either with the alarm going off, in panic mode, or when hitting the lock button twice.
I also am having issues with the drivers side window, the only way it goes down is if you press the button all the way down to automatically go all the way down. If I try to go down without going all the way, when I press the button it goes up.
And last but not least, after replacing a wheel bearing last night when I got home, the interior light wouldn't work with the door until I locked it and unlocked it with the key but afterwards it worked again
The car is a 2000 1.8t with 221,000 miles auto no modifications except euroswitch.
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2010 ES350, 84,000 miles. I have seen many threads on door locking/unlocking issues but none quite like mine that I've been able to locate. The key fob stopped locking the doors a few weeks ago, neither will the lock button on the drivers door inside the car. No sounds, beeps, lights or mechanical attempts to lock the doors. There are no indicator lights or messages suggesting an issue.
I can go around and manually lock all the doors, hit the lock on the key fob, and the car will beep and light up as if the locks worked fine. I also manually locked each door separately and in all combinations, the only combination which will enable the beep as if the door locks work with the fob is if they are all locked. The fob will unlock the doors however, unlocking has not been an issue.
My first attempt to correct was to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect and they worked fine for a week or so. The next time, with all the same symptoms, disconnecting the battery did nothing, the fob, however did start working a day or two later. The third time it happened we took the car directly to the dealership who has had it for 5 days and have been unable to identify an issue (the fob started to work on day 3).
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Ever since I installed my L.e.d. lights in my doors the automatic door lock once moving keep locking like 3 times. I don't know why this would happen I didn't touch anything I shouldn't have. Why this would be happening.
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I have been having problems on and off with my central locking for a while now with my 05' Toyota Camry Altise. 95% of the time it works perfectly, however occasionally the central locking will refuse to lock the doors, chirping at me twice as if a door is open. I know that all of the door switches are working fine so this isn't the cause of the problem.
I believe it may have something to do with the fact that I had to replace my driver side door a while ago, and that now the actuator may not be working properly or misaligned and jamming. What should I be looking for to make sure this doesn't occur? I thought it all went back in perfectly. Interestingly I can get around the problem by turning the ignition on and off and trying again.
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Does the rear hatch come from the factory with a different key than the ignition? My key will not open the rear hatch lock, it doesn't even go in the whole way.
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Well just replaced most everything in the front axle. Hubs, vacuum seal, dust seal, inner seals and calipers. I also cleaned the autolock hubs. Fist time I used them they worked. I tried again today and no 4wd. I checked the vacuum lines and they are all intact. Not sure what to do next.
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I discovered recently that the rear doors no longer lock. Scared the crap out of me when I open them to load something not realizing I hadn't unlocked the truck, and the alarm went off. I haven't tried to open the thing up yet to see what may be broken or loose.
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