Ford - Expedition :: Engine Cold - Fires Right Up / Engine Hot - Won't Fire Right Up
Jun 6, 2014
I have a 1999 Ford Expedition with a 4.6L V8, 192K miles. Just replaced spark plugs, wires, and fuel filter. For the last 50K miles or so, it demonstrates the following starting problem:
Engine cold - fires right up.
Engine hot, turned off for a few minutes - fires right back up.
Engine hot, turned off for approximately an hour - won't fire right up (engine turns over same as always but takes several attempts to start).
What is happening and how to repair it?
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Having an issue with my 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L. When the engine is cold, been sitting for a few hours not when the temp outside is cold, it takes about 5 to 8 cranks before the engine will fire. I can then shut it off immediately and start it again and it will fire right up.
I currently have the P0464, P0463 and P2068 check engine error codes for the fuel level sensor units. I don't really know if these are directly related as I've had them for about 6 months and the starting issue has just shown up the last month or so. Plus, I would assume these should only be related to sending fuel level information to the fuel gauge. Either way, I'm still leaning toward a fuel delivery issue since it only has a hard time starting when the car has been sitting for a few hours. I don't know if maybe it's the fuel pump or a electrical component. If it's the fuel pump, I'd like to do that when I take care of the sending units so I don't have to go back in. I've tried turning the car to the 'on" position for about 10 seconds without starting it to see if I could get the pump to load the line, if that's the issue, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
The battery is good. It tested 12.5v after sitting over night.
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1986 ford f150 standard cab, manual trans with 3 plus overdrive.
1989 302 rebuild v8. When trying to start occasionally the ignition continues to turn over..
Even after the engine fires, the starter continues to turn over until I have to disconnect the battery to stop it. Then it fires up fine afterwards what could the problem be.
I'm thinking the starter, or the ignition switch but I also heard it could be the starter solenoid.
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My Expedition started to shudder on a drive when I got it up to 55 MPH. I drove for about 15 minutes and parked well I drove it again and it started to do the same thing. Now the Service Engine Light came on. What the cause could be. (2000 Ford Expedition EB Ed. 5.4l Triton).
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The engine on our Ford Expedition (2003) has started quitting for no reason. The engine light does not come on. We might be driving and it just stops or stopped at a light or turning into the driveway and it just turns off. Often it we simply turn it back on and it is fine but occasionally it is difficult to restart.
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Intermittently, perhaps every 20 starts or so, I get this really high pitched squeak for a split second as soon as the engine fires. What it might be?
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I have a 2010 euro spec GTI DSG with 140.000 km (86.000 miles)
The problems i have..
- Rough vibrations.
- The car starts quick but there is big jolt when the engine fires, shifts or turns of.
What has been done to the car
**New mechatronic 30.000 km ago (replaced with new revision on warranty)
** Oil , filter , plugs
** Carbon cleaning by myself yesterday
** DSG calibration done
** No errors codes
I am thinking its mounts to the engine or transmission? Other things I am thinking of ...
- Coils packs?
- PCV?
- MAF?
The car is little low on power as it struggle on uphills on low speed, but much better after carbon cleaning.
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1999 ford expedition 5.4L ....I have been hearing a loudish (I can hear it in the cab) humming noise coming from the engine bay. I don't hear it when the truck is cold (1 to 5 minutes after starting), seems to get louder at it its peak (the more I drive). When i open the hood, the humming is coming from the intake. I am a pretty handy guy, just at my witts end right now....not sure, but I was thinking brake booster?
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I've taken on repairing my mother in laws '07 Prius after a drive-shaft broke and once at the dealers the quote was heading towards £2k with the worn discs/pads and leaking water pump added on. The discs and pads were a breeze and a drive shaft should be with me on Monday (it broke off in the outer cv, probably due to being hammered into the hub after a backstreet garage changed the spit boot) but the water pump or should i say coolant is proving tricky. I drained coolant from the rad and back of the petrol engine block and got about 2.5l or 3 quarts. I then removed the leaking pump, virtually no coolant came out of the pump housing and I fitted the new pump.
To refill the system I open the breather on the rad and slowly replaced all the fluid. I also refilled the petrol engine reservoir and put a drop in the inverter reservoir but that had not drained out. I reckon near enough the same amount went back in as came out. I read a post by Pat Wong and started the petrol engine in inspection mode and it seemed to run fine but just cut out after around 4-5 mins.
All along the VSC, ABS, yellow exclamation mark in circle and yellow square with sliding car in warning lights were on but not the big red triangle or yellow engine light. Also, the red exclamation in circle (handbrake?) will not go off. The inspection mode procedure still works but there seems a long delay with chirping sounds before the engine fires. It still runs fine but again cuts out after a few mins. Could it be shutting off due to brake/driveshaft issues or has air crept into the inverter? Maybe disconnecting the battery for five mins will reset the lights?
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My 2006 Azara has had a no start problem since about a year after we bough it new. The condition is intermittent and is not dependent on outside temperature, humidity or other conditions, It happens when the engine is cold or hot. Sometimes the problem goes away for a week or so then it comes back. It happens with either key.
The engine cranks over but does not start. Usually resolve it by sitting for 10 - 15 seconds then trying again. Sometimes have to do this two or three times before it fires. All other electrical items work ok and the battery has no problem powering accessories. I've had it into the dealer however because it is difficult to replicate, they have a hard time repairing the problem. The first time they neutralized the immobilizer and re-programmed it. The second time, I got a check engine light and they replaced the immobilizer. But the problem continues.
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2008 Expedition 6 speed auto .... I recently had the clutch replaced in my manual transmission car. Whenever I am about to stop in traffic, if I put the gear to neutral I can see the engine's rpm hovering around 1080's rpms, and it only drops to the "idle range" of 700 - 800 rpm if I stop the car completely. I did a test going downhill in neutral and I can see the engine rpms going up a little bit if I let the brakes go. I plugged my obd scanner and used OBD doctor on my phone to keep track of the rpm graph. Here is a pic.. You can see the rpms going 1000's steady and then dropping abruptly when I completely stop the vehicle. So, is this normal?
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I have an '89 740 wagon, Bosch ignition. It will not start. If I spray starter fluid, it will fire, then immediately die. I have replaced already both fuel pumps, noise suppressor/fuel injector relay, fuel pump relays.
I installed a fuse in the fuse box, which was empty when I purchased the car. And the engine instantly died. It did start up when the fuse was removed, and I drove it back across country. The idle got worse until it died and would not start back home.
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My 2003 ford expedition with the 4.6 v8 engine is having an issue i cant seem to pin point. The lights will get bright and then dim and the engine will die and I will lose power steering and brakes, it will start back up when i put it in park. Also while I am driving randomly the rpms will shoot up to between 3 and 4,000 rpms and go back down. I have seen a video on youtube that says the fuse box in this model is very likely to short out and ruin the circuit board. Mainly looking for any experience any of you have with a issue like this. The check engine light is on, Showing two codes for running too lean and a code for Idle air control valve. Mileage is 239,000 ...
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Reverse works great....engine revs and barely pulls in drive. Not sure yet if it actually changes gears. I am planning on replacing tranny. I have a few questions :
1: Could it be something more simple like a selonoid or ???
2: What all trannys will fit? this is the 2wd 5.4 liter xlt ...
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I have a ford f250 1997 with a 5. 4 triton engine in I bought a 02. 5.4. Out if a ford expedition he said it would fit but my mechanic is not sure . Would the engine out if the 02 fit in the 1997 and what would need to be done.
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Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:
1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.
2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.
3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.
In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.
I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).
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I have a 1999 Ford Expedition. A couple of days ago The engine started losing coolant as soon as the engine cooled. I replaced the coolant only to lose it again when the engine cooled. I was told that it is more likely the intake manifold gaskets leaking. It seems they are right. What is the cost to repair if I take it to a mechanic?
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2004 Malibu 3.5 v6. 101,000 miles. In order to get engine running gas pedal has to be pushed all the way down to get it started. Engine will not start by turning key. Car initially starts sputters and then dies. Pedal to the floor while cranking engine fires and runs. Which direction do I go first at. Ignition or Fuel. What should the fuel pressure be with key on engine not running ?
What should pressure be at while running ?
What is the time frame pressure should hold at and for how long ?
Ignition, Coil,Wires,Plugs. Are these the only ignition parts to look at?
Check engine light is on but has leak in exhaust. Exhaust needs to be welded. All parts above are original. Neither Fuel Pump nor Ignition Component have not been changed. Which do I do first ?
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My 99 jeep grand Cherokee 4.7 v8 4x4 will not start after 2 to 3 short trips. it starts up fine in the morning when the engine is cold but driving for a while while and I stop somewhere and shut the engine down for a few minutes it will not restart.. after I wait 10 to 15 min it start up ok.. Next when I'm driving on the highway, after 10-20 mins of driving, the engine stalls for 5-10 secs. and fires back up..I inspected all connections and the starter which were ok but I did find that the starter is soaked with oil dripping from the valve covers.. Could the oil be the problem..? Even causing the stalling out on the highway..?
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Drove 40 miles took half hour then back in the truck and drove to lunch. When I got out of the truck you could smell burning. Opened the hood but there was nothing to see. Coolant level in the plastic hold tank good checked oil level, okay. No sign of smoke but the smell was real. Went in had lunch and came out and nothing. no smell nothing. Drove fifty miles home and nothing every thing working perfect and no smell. Oil temp. 197 to 203 all the way home.
Only thing that was done on truck was last Tuesday Ford did oil change.
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I was hoping to have this resolved, but it seems how I have it parked affects the cold starting of this thing. Had an issue quite a while back as listed in another thread where the truck cranks and fires then immediately dies when cold. Takes at least three times to fire. Once fired it has no problems and will start easily unless it sits for almost a days time...on flat ground.
I replaced some injectors recently since they were bad and I had the truck parked facing downhill slightly when I did that. Since the repairs, the truck would start fine while parked there. Brought my trailer home and have the truck in the street on the flat ground and once again the 3 crank starts begin.
I have attached three Excel spreadsheets of my data from today. All three are the same data log just split up for size and elimination of dead time on the original spreadsheet.
So, I am guessing I have a HPOP problem, which is probably why I was getting intermittent contribution codes when the truck is up to temp. The truck fires totally fine when the oil is hot and up to temp so hot starts are no issue. Could the pump be "stuck" or just not working right when it has sat?
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