Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - High Beam Indicator Inoperative
Nov 24, 2013
The high beam indicator on the instrument panel stopped working. It does illuminate but is extremely dim. I changed the bulb, its one of those tiny little bulbs but that didn't work. I cleaned the connection areas where the bulb holder clicks into the back of the panel with scotchbrite, no luck.
I checked for voltage, this is where it gets interesting. I measured 6 volts. The other side is presumably ground, but my meter went a little crazy when I checked for ground, like it sensed voltage, but there is no voltage. This could be a bad ground, but where is the ground located? Buried somewhere under all those plastic panels, I suppose. And why only 6 volts? Is there some electronic control somewhere? The Chilton manual wire diagram just shows a hyper simple circuit from the high beam lights, through the indicator lamp, then to ground.
I DID replace the check engine light bulb and that works now (sarcastic hurray!). I have never seen it come on, the previous owner must have let it burn out, but the truck is in pretty decent shape for its year.
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I installed a headlight kit from VW tuning a while back d2s with 6k bulbs I believe.
The headlights work but my high beam indicator is stuck on. I know this is a common problem but for the life of me I can't figure out how to fix it. If I switch back and forth with the stick on the column it does nothing. Just stays on high beams. I've just kind of dealt with it for a while.
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I installed a set of bi-Xenon HIDS identical to these.
in my wife's 2008 Accent. I unplugged the DRL module as shown in a thread I found here, but now there's no high beam indicator on the dash. Is there a wire on the plug that I can put a jumper on or something to make this work again?
And before all the nay-sayers growl at me, instead of assisting with this problem, I aimed the lights really low so there's minimal glare to oncoming traffic. We drove about 125 km last night with them and never got high-beamed once.
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I was cruising my truck down the road and noticed that my high beam indicator light was very dimly lit. I wondered why this would all of the sudden come on at all if the high beams were not on so I pulled over and took a walk to the front of my truck to check my headlights. Sure enough the passenger light was very dim. (I must assume the high beam indicator light being dimly lit is also an indicator for headlight malfunction/burn out)
I figured out the plug has a keeper piece that is supposed to hold it in the bulb base but it was broken off and missing.
I went to the auto parts store to find some kind of fix. To my surprise they have a replacement plug for my truck. The down side is it costs $95 and it still had to be shipped! I decided I could figure something else out.
After I pulled the four 5.5 millimeter screws out of the headlight housing. I noticed there is enough room on either side of the light contacts to drill a hole thru the plug and the bulb to allow a pin to be placed thru both of them which would keep the plug and bulb socket from coming apart.
These are the pins or keepers I used.
A 1/16" drill bit did the job. I put the new bulb/socket and the plug together and drilled a hole on each side of the plug right thru the socket at the same time far enough back and at a width to avoid the contacts of the bulb socket and plug. (there is a rubber gasket in the plug that should be avoided but if you still knick it as I did you can fill the plug or the socket with dielectric grease that most car parts stores have and it will keep any moisture out but not effect the electrical current, do not use silicone, one day you will have to take it back apart for a bulb replacement or something.)
This is the bulb socket with the holes already drilled and the plug removed. This is what it looks like with the bulb/socket and the plug together and the keepers in place. And the back of the composite headlight housing with the assembly installed.
Make sure you install the bulb/socket and plug with keepers on the housing before you bolt the housing to the truck because there is not enough room to get your hands behind the housing to install the keepers with the housing bolted to the truck.
Since I replaced the stock bulb with a Sylvania Silver star I had to replace the driver side too so I didn't end up with a headlight being brighter or "whiter" than the other. Even though I was incredibly careful I still broke the plug on the driver side too! So now both of my headlights now have this mod on them.
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I have a 2000 Celica GT. Today I discovered that the blue high beam indicator is not showing in the dashboard. The high beam, low beam, and daytime running lights all are working.
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My high beam indicator in my dash is not working, I pulled the bulb and checked it and it is fine, so I did a voltage test and I am only getting 1.5 volts at the light terminals, I should be getting 12 volts. Is there a wiring diagram someone has so i can see if it is the dash display itself or that I could trace back to the switch to see if it is something in the headlight switch? or What it could possibly be. other than that, everything else works.
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I bought a 2009 Accent last week after my 1987 Camry wagon bit the dust. It has 47000 km and seems to have been very well maintained. The only problem I have noticed is that the high beam indicator light does not come on, although the hi beams do work. I downloaded an owner's manual but am not sure which fuse the indicator light is on; in any case, everything else seems to be working so I expect the bulb is burned out. My problem : I don't know its location on the instrument panel since it has never worked, and I don't know if it is possible to replace it without special tools.
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04 Explorer XLT, 4dr. 4wd, 4.0 engine - after replacing front rotors and pads the "4X4 High" indicator light flashes then pauses then flashes again. Did I brake something, what is the cause and how do I fix it. ABS light stays on all the time.
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I added plow lights to my truck and something quit when I had the high beams all on at once. All 4 shut off. Low beams still working. What I fried or where to check? Its a 99 F250 superduty.
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I have a 1997 Expedition that every time I replace the #16 fuse it blows when the high beams are on. It seems that it happens only when in drive and accelerating from a stopped position. I wonder if it could be either the clock spring or the multi-switch cause the short. I checked the wires on the headlights and they are fine. Again the high beams work when the truck is sitting still and the fuse is new.
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So I recently bought a 1997 7.3l F250. It is in fairly good condition, but it has some problems with the lights working. The turn signals and hazards all work, as do the tail lights and headlights. However, when I hit the high beam switch, the headlights cut off entirely. Also, the brake lights do not work at all. Ive checked the bulbs and since they all work Im not sure what the issue is.
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I have a buddy with a 1999 F250 W/7.3 TD. His property is accessed through a couple miles of hard terrain, so this may wind up being a loose ground or something that pulled loose.Anyway, the truck just all the sudden won't accelerate. It'll crank & idle all day long, but when you hit the gas.....nothing happens. I realize the diesel doesn't have an accelerator cable, as it is drive by wire. First thought was the APP sensor(accelerator), but most of the dash indicator, O/D, etc. lights are inop too.
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2000 Ford Explorer Limited - door locks not working. When they started to go bad, they would lock but not unlock. Then shortly after they were inoperative, including the lock in the back. I checked the fuse and it is OK. This may be something - when I pulled the fuse I tested on side and got battery voltage. The other terminal was showing just over 8 volts. With the fuse pulled, should it have any voltage at all??? Also, what should the voltage be at the switch in the drivers door?
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I have been to the dealer 3 times so far because of something to do with the lighting system. The MFD says "AFS Inoperative" and the indicator light flashes for bulb failure or malfunction in the adaptive front lights system.
The dealer has replaced a bulb and power module thus far, but it hasn't fixed the malfunction. The indicator light and warning comes on 4 out of 5 times I drive the car and usually within the first few minutes of driving. It occurs with our without the lights on.
The lights do work at all times, but I don't think the adaptive steering/lighting is working when the error occurs.
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I have a 1999 740iL. The speedometer, odometer, and instantaneous mileage indicator are inoperative most of the time. Also, the yellow ABS indicator (and another yellow light) on the dash are also lit whenever the gauges are not working.
The ONLY time that the gauges work is when the temperature is under about 45 F, and if the car is cold. If the car warms up, or if the temperature outside warms up, the indicator lights go on and the gauges don't work.
I presume that there is some faulty connection that works when the parts are cold (contracted), and bad when the parts are warm (some degree of compression due to thermal expansion).
(One fellow said that this could be either an internal fault in the instrument cluster, internal fault in the ABS module, or faulty wheel speed sensor).
What makes the most sense, especially given the thermal nature of the problem??
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My car is fully stock, with all options available to me (cold weather package not available here). The low-beam triple-LED headlights are aimed way too low compared to all my previous cars, and where they should be. BUT high-beam is aimed properly. So if I adjust the low-beams up, my high-beams might end up lighting up the trees, not the road.
If adjust the headlights up on a fully stock car (not lowered at the front)? Are the high beams still lighting up the road fine? And if you can be specific as the number of turns on the screwdriver, it'd be good too to have an initial adjustment reference.
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This morning a dash light informed me a headlight bulb was out. It was my DTR light on the passenger side.
I purchased Sylvania H7 high intensity, installed it and it failed to work properly. Daytime light on only drivers side works.
High Beam on , both lights works.
I checked my manual and it said to check fuse in the 5 slot on the driver side dash/door panel and there actually is no fuse in there. I checked the driver side and there was no fuse there either.
I replaced my driver side bulb last year and it took 5 mins....i am already 4 hours into this!
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I drive a 96 Subaru Legacy. What does it mean when one of the high beams is dimmer (less light output) than the low beam? I am using a brand-new bulb. It's not an adjustment issue because I was looking at the bulb when it was outside of the housing and it clearly gets dimmer when you switch to brights. However, they are equally bright when on low-beam, so I don't think its just a crossed wire.
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97 Exp xlt 6 cyl --- While driving at night w/high beams on, all lights will go completely out. Turn light switch off and back on, then they will come on again. Where to start.
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I replaced the low beam and high beam on my Subaru, now the low beam is very dim and the high beam doesn't work. Careful not to touch the bulb.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS and recently noticed that my low beam only works in the high beam setting and the high beam doesn't work.
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