Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - Loss Of Power - Truck Is Rocking Side To Side When Driving
May 9, 2014
So after getting home last night and having a lot of trouble backing into the driveway, having a serious loss of power, I take it out today and find that the truck is rocking from side to side as I drive, a bit like a boat in rough water. Further, I wasn't able to get much power out of it, capping about 20mph/30kph. Reversing produced some ugly grinding or scraping noises. The steering wheel swung very quickly back to its neutral position after turning, and I've noticed a strip on the road near the driveway where I apparently spun one of the tires trying to back in. Some quick searching says it could be a wheel bearing, an axle problem or suspension-related.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I have an 06 crew short bed 4x4 238k miles ... It just started out of nowhere pulling from side to side. I got home and as i made the turn onto my street I felt the whole front end shift as I was turning almost like a knot in the steering i popped my head under and saw a greasy gear box everything else looks ok.
View 14 Replies
Explorer with 4.0 has a rough idle, just put new plugs & wires, air filter looks good. i did get a new fuel filter as well but haven't gotten to that yet. It has 102k. I have read some info about motor mounts could come lose casing the motor move a little more, not sure about that one. its the wife's haven't driven or looked into it yet, its on the to do list weekend. She also informed that it seems to lose power a little while driving sometimes, thinking possible fuel pump now?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 188,000 miles on it. I bought it used with 110K miles and put a new tranny in at that time. Now, I am having problems. I don't know if it's the tranny or the engine. It looses power when climbing hills. It takes off really slow with no power and finally gets up to speed it switches gears the whole time smoothly but the engine just can't take a load.
The check engine light came on and put out 10 codes:
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent
P1747 Electronic Solenoid A-Short Circuit
P0743-Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0750-Shift Solenoid "A"
P0755-Shift Solenoid "B"
P0760-Shift Solenoid "C"
P0765-Shift Solenoid "D"
P0135-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P0155-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P1409-EGR Vacuum Regulator Circuit Malfunction
Those are the codes and I don't know how one has anything to do with the other. I checked the dip stick on the tranny and it's clean. Juicy red and not shavings.
View 4 Replies
i have a 2WD 2004 Ford Ranger regular cab. I have replaced the rotors three times in the last year due to warpage. What is causing this? The truck does not pull to one side or the other while driving. applying the brakes don't cause it to pull to one side either. According to my mechanics, neither caliper is sticking. the right brake pad does show some signs of heat damage (cracking). There is no uneven tire wear. I have a buddy who thinks it may be a bent wheel hub, but my mechanic says no because no uneven tire wear. They are leaning to a faulty brake hose, but can't say for sure.
View 3 Replies
I have a 97 ford explorer sport with new tierods ball jonts control arms sway bar end links and bushings n I am having an issue with the steering its been in for alignment too n it pulls side to side....
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 past few months it has been throwing a p1151 code meaning it is coming up lean on the driver side. I just changed the plugs and it didn't work, neither did changing the fuel and air filters. cant find any vacuum or exhaust leaks. Replaced a bad injector along with the spark plugs and its still coming up lean.
The truck also seems to bog down at about 50-60 mph if i let off the gas and coast it will drop about 300 rpms. It has me confused and annoyed, i have true duals with glass packs could that be causing it?
View 4 Replies
My daughter was driving down the interstate doing 70 mph when her explorer lost power and died. It will not re-start. Checked the DTCs and there were no codes. This same thing happened about a year ago and she had it towed to the dealership. After 3 weeks, they called and said to come pick it up. They said they had no idea what had been wrong but it was running. They replaced crank sensor, cam sensor, cleaned and checked several others an it still would not start. Then one day they sent one of the flunkies to move it back into the shop and he started it up and drove it in! They checked several more things but claimed they really didn't know what was wrong or why it started running. Now it has done it again. I suspect it may be a faulty ECM.
View 3 Replies
I have a '00 RAV4 I bought from my Mother. It was having loss of engine power and it would stall while driving and then turn off while driving. The car was taken to 4 mechanics, non could figure it out changed the sensor air fuel ....worked then did it again sent to the Toyota dealer changed the same part ....the problem seemed to be fixed....I've had for a couple of weeks and the problem came back...what I notice was a low idle, loss of power....then the car started stalling while driving, the rpm idle dropped to 0 and car shut down took to mechanic said the throttle body was dirty . They cleaned it they said that it fixed the problem ....2 weeks later it happens again to 2x .....I don't know what to do ...
View 1 Replies
I have a friend with a problem. He has a 2007 Explorer Limited that when he hits a bump the drivers side power seat moves all the way back.
View 1 Replies
I just recently bought a 2000 Explorer, 4.0 OHV, 4x4 with about 150,000 miles.
I've had the vehicle for about a month, and ever since I bought it, it's had a grinding sound (sounded like wheel bearing) coming from the front right side. I replaced both right and left bearing/hub assemblies, and took it out for a drive. The initial sound that I thought was bearing noise is still there, and at about 65mph I started to get a little bit of steering wheel shake. I took my foot off the gas and it stopped. I accelerated up to about 70mph and it seemed ok.
I hit a VERY small bump in the road and the steering wheel started shaking like hell. So bad that I almost lost control. I slammed the brakes and the shake stopped instantly. I took it home and put it up in the air, half expecting to see something loose or broken, and everything looks perfect. I re-torqued everything that I had taken apart for the initial hub/bearing replacement, and took it out again. Same issues.
I never had ANY of these problems before I replaced the hub/bearing assemblies, so I'm completely confused. I was thinking CV joints, but I have no clicking at all when turning, in forward or reverse, everything is smooth. Outer tie rods were done about 6 weeks ago..
View 1 Replies
My 2003 Ford Explorer Power Door Unlock on the drivers side quit working. I can unlock the doors using the fob, unlock them from the passenger side or unlock it manually. I have replaced the Power Door Lock switch but still have the same problem.
View 2 Replies
Son's 2000 GMC Sierra, 200000 miles, 4.8L engine, automatic transmission and 4WD. Was driving home from a trip to the store - heard a "violent popping noise" on the passenger side and the truck simply slowed to a stop. Engine running fine, all sounds fine while idling. When we put it into any gear, I can "feel" it go into gear but the truck doesn't move forward or back. Just changed differential, transfer case, and transmission fluids about two months ago.
View 14 Replies
On way way to Florida and got 5 hours away and after the truck ran flawlessly for 5 hours it all of a sudden started billowing smoke, lots of knocking, and died. Now the engine won't turn over, tries to but acts like it's stuck. No codes...Accidentally crushed the cord on my CTS so no way to read codes. Just did studs and injectors
View 14 Replies
About 3 days ago there was a complete power loss to the Driver Side Window and Sliding Door. Checked both fuse panels and everything looked good. Is there a relay that controls the entire driver side? There's no whining or noise at all when you push the buttons. Just complete loss of power. If you press the button for the passenger window on the driver door, everything works. So its not that the driver side door as a whole has problems.
View 4 Replies
I recently (3/3/14) purchased a 2011 Sonata Limited 2.0 with only 6750 miles. I've owned it for 3 weeks and put 2000 miles on it. So far, lots to say good about it but one very disturbing quirk- on occasion, when accelerating from a stop in traffic or when entering moving traffic from a side street or driveway, there is a sudden loss of power. This power loss lasts from about one second to as long as 3-4 seconds before the engine recovers and the car resumes normal acceleration. I've taken it to my local Hyundai dealership twice with this complaint, but the defect is intermittent (technician was unable to duplicate it at the time) and there is no defect code to be found.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2007 explorer that died while i was driving. We have changed the battery, alternator, spark plugs, fuel filter, and have checked the fuel pump, starter, throttle body. The truck cranks but wont kick over.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 century with 77k miles. Recently the drive side a/c is hotter than the passenger side. Tried adding coolant but driver side is still hotter.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2000 Impala with 215000 miles and it keeps on running. It has developed a side-to-side shutter and only happens during accelleration. It smooths out once I stop accellerating. I have had a left rear wheel bearing replaced hoping this would solve it. Not so much. It feels like it is coming from the rear of the car. There is no movement in the steering wheel. Could this be motor mounts?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2000 MK4 Jetta GLS that's had a clicking noise in one spot whenever I rock the steering wheel left-to-right or right-to-left. It's noticeable while stopped or at low-speed and seems to be in one particular "sweet spot." I've had the tie rod ends changed, with no improvement. It seems obvious that it's some kind of linkage or joint that's worn out, but I'm just not familiar enough with the steering system on these cars to know where to look. I thought maybe a bad CV joint, but they usually click when the wheels are turning, not when the steering wheel is being rotated, and they don't usually go on clicking for a year without wearing out.
View 3 Replies
Can I swap my seat bottoms? I have '99 F350 with 40-20-40 seats. Drivers seat is getting tired. Would like to take just the seat bottom and flip-flop. Can it be done?
View 3 Replies
