Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - Misfiring And CEL Came Back On
Apr 17, 2008
My neice bought a 2000 Explorer Sport back in November. Soon afterwards it developed a misfire and the CEL came on. I put on a new set of wires and a new set of plugs. I noticed when I replaced the plugs that the #3 plug was missing the ceramic near the electrode. I figured it was just a cheap Bosch plug and didn't give it much thought. The vehicle ran great.
Recently the misfire came back and the CEL came back on. When I pulled the plugs #3 had a cracked ceramic around the electrode, #4 was wet with fuel and not firing at all, and #6 was completely missing the ceramic around the electrode.
I replaced the plugs again, replaced the coil pack and cleaned the MAF sensor and it's running great again.
My question is, what would cause the ceramic to disintegrate on the plugs? There didn't seem to be any pinging or detonation. I replaced the coil pack because I thought maybe it was erratic, loading up on fuel and then causing a big bang and then destroying the plug. Are my thoughts way off? I want to make sure this is fixed so that it doesn't tear up anything else.
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I just bought a 2000 ford explorer which didn't start... I put a new fuel filter, spark plugs and air filter in it...still not starting ...gonna do a a compression test tomm. and see if it the timing chains or tensioners... Sounds like its misfiring actually, it doesn't start with starting fluid sprayed in it....where is the ignition pickup located on these things? I still need to put a new ignition coil and wires on it. plugs were in horrendous shape and i thought that was the problem.
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I have a 2000 ford explorer. 4x4 v6. One day i started it up and it was running rough. It had real sluggish power. Then the check engine light came on. I hooked it up to the code machine. The only readout was number 3 misfired. I replaced the plug and all was fine. A few months it happend again. I replaced it again and it was fine. Well it just happened again. I replaced it again. It ran good to work but on the way back no good. Light came on again. Hooked up the machine it read number 4 misfired and number 2 bank lean. So I replaced number 4. It still runs like shit rough idle and no power. Give it gas it dogs out but then it'll kick in if i get on it. Thinking it maybe a vaccum leak or intake leak or o-rings.
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Changed the spark plugs now I have misfire in cylinders 3 and 6. Do I change the spark plug wires or the coil pack?
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2007 Explorer Sport Trac was misfiring when first started and then would settle down. Now it is misfiring and when I try to drive it, it does quiet a bit of sputtering and has no power. Took it to mechanic he said it would be hard to tell if it was fuel injectors or what.
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My 1997 Explorer 4.0 is giving me a run for my money. About a month ago, it started misfiring and threw a P0300, 301 and 306. It didn't misfire constantly though only most of the time; sometimes it would run perfect which leads me to believe the issue is electrical. I've had trouble with the coil before so I changed it and no difference. The next time I scanned it, there was only the 306 code. Next I made sure that cylinder six was misfiring and the rest were firing by pulling the wire off the coil.
All checked out but one and six. I've already checked the wires, they're both good. I swapped the plug on cylinders 5 and 6 in the hopes that the problem would follow the plug; nope. Fuses are all good. So I know the coil, wires and plugs are good. That leaves me with air and fuel. I can't imagine anything is wrong with the air intake seeing that it still runs. That leaves me with fuel. It has 200k on it and I've never done injectors. Maybe its injectors but why would they only be faulty part of the time?
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesn't stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. That's when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterward. I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as the O2 censor.
I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gaping. Thought I had fixed the problem. The vehicle ran perfectly. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it. Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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2000 Excursion V10.
Recently cylinders 1,2,3,4 wend dead on my wife's Excursion. I searched here for a pin out diagram so I can check all the wires from the coils to the PCM. I changed the coils on those 4 cylinders with no change and then swapped them with the coils on the left side of the engine. the problem stays on those 4 cylinders. Any link to pin out the wire harness for the coils to the PCM
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I have a 2000 f350. When idling uo can't really hear the miss. Driving at about 40-50 mph it will shack and shutter real bad. Hooked up spanner and had miss fire codes for cyl. 1,4,9. Changed out all 10 plugs, and boots. Also changed out the coil on all three cyl also. Still have the miss and shutter. Also changed out #9 injector ...
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My F350 idles fine but every 10-15 seconds it mis fires. When asking it to go up hill it sputters and seems to loose power. It runs fine until asked to work hard. Not really sure which direction to go in first.
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I have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
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My daughter has this truck and I was driving it the other day I noticed it misfiring when the trans shifts down under a slight pull and/or going up hills. It looses power and speed when this happens but if you back off, it smooths out when it shifts into overdrive. I haven't had it to a mechanic to check any codes yet.
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I just bought it off my friend yesterday and I noticed the back door doesn't lock, the glass part doesn't either. How I could fix it?
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My explorer is making this popping/ cranking noise when I back up and I give it a little too much gas. It will also do this in drive and also when i'm driving and I get back on the gas pedal it will jerk. I really don't want to take it to ford...
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My daughter has a 94 explorer xlt 4 dr. The window motor regulators are going out. I replaced one of the front ones and decided I'd just make the parts needed next time. All that was really wrong with the front was the little plastic slugs were crushed. They are easy enough to make.
Tonight I tried to remove one of the rear motors, so I could open it up and get the measurements I needed. I found 2 screws that secure the motor, but that's not all that holds it. It seems to be mounted with a spot welded stud as well. There is a small dimple in the door panel in the approximate area.
Before I start drilling things that might not need drilled, I thought maybe I better check here first. How is this supposed to be removed ? The Haynes manual for it tells nothing as to the removal and replacement of any of the window motors. Is the reg inside the gear head anything like the front door motors ?
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Was driving the other day and it just died and wouldn't start back up. It has fire and is getting gas. It's a 4.0 Sohc...
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'96 Explorer 4.0l V6 4X4... 214,000 miles. So, I'm having some transmission slippage and was wondering what can be done about it. You see the mileage and the only thing done to the trans was a drain and filter/fluid replacement at 120,000 miles.
Here's what's going on... When cold, in the morning, I put it in drive, trans engages, I move maybe 20 feet and it disengages. I wait up to 20-30 seconds and it engages and slips right back out. I wait, engages, move 50 feet and it disengages. You get the picture. After doing this 4-5 times it will engage and I can drive a 100 miles with no problem. Seems like it need to build up pressure or warm up before it will drive normally. I've checked the fluid and it is at the correct level. I guess my question is, would I be wasting time and money to replace the filter and fluid again or is it just warn out?
I've read when a trans starts slipping after it's warmed up means it needs a rebuild and mine is the opposite.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai accent 1.6L w/ 190,000 miles. Around Christmas one cold morning right after getting gas at a grimey service station my car started running like crap misfiring badly. Kicking and bucking it barely got me to work (6 miles). I took the car to an Advanced auto and had them plug it in to check the engine light. It was throwing multiple codes P0300 (Multiple Misfire Detected), P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected). I told the guy at advanced that I thought it was bad gas and he agreed, so I put some dry gas and Lucas oil gas treatment in it. The problem seemed to get better within 50 miles, only misfiring when I drove it hard.
The problem has come back and this time the gas treatments are not working. I am getting the same two codes along with a new code P0133, (HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Slow Response) and the same symptoms, and to top it off my flex pipe has rusted out (for the second time).
So now I don't think the initial problem was water in the gas, and I am not sure what to make of it. The problem seems to happen more noticeably when I push the engine (first gear, and when accelerating) but then seems to get better when maintaining a constant speed. Also, the misfiring happens all the time but more noticeably when the engine gets to running temperature. First gear is by far the worst when the engine is warm.
- The car got a tune (filter(s), plugs wires) up about 6mo ago
- The timing belt is old about 90k on it
- A new crank shaft position sensor a year ago
- New O2 sensor (the 2nd one past flex pipe) 6mo ago
- Burning about 1qt of oil (synthetic) every 3k miles but no smoke
- The car has the original clutch w/ 191k on it!
This is where I stand. I don't care about the flex pipe or the timing belt. Unless I can defiantly pinpoint the problem to one of those two, the car has so many miles on it, to start dumping that kind of money into it doesn't make sense. I have put a spark test light on each of the plugs BUT the problem does not happen when the car is idle so it showed me nothing but properly functioning plugs. I was thinking the ignition coil (its original) but I think that would throw a code.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.6L automatic. I just bought it today. It has 171,000 miles. The car is misfiring. It does it when I give it gas. It won't misfire if I only give a little gas but if I was to drive it then it spits and sputters. I put new wires on. what are some common things on these cars. I am new to a Hyundai.
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