Ford - Explorer :: 2004 - Acceleration Responding Slow / Tick Or Tap Coming From Behind The Dash
Apr 29, 2014
We have an 04' Ford Explorer NBX 4x4 (auto). We are not the original owners. It has a several issues.
1. Acceleration seems to be responding a little slow when I depress the accelerator pedal. Like a lag of some kind. Engine appears to idle and run fine. Just that subtle lag from gas pedal to engine response. No trouble codes
2. There is a tick or tap coming from behind the dash. This morning as soon as a put the key in the ignition the ticking started but went away after a few minutes on the road. But comes back when I come around turns (like a rounding off ramp from the HWY). Cannot figure out what it is. No trouble codes.
3. My transmission (4x4 Auto) when cold is fine, but when it warms up it seems to go into 4x4 mode and wont come out. All I have to do start going up a subtle hill (or incline) and it engages the 4x4 (at least that's what it feels like). I can hear the sound of gearing. When the transmission shifts it thumps really hard. At low speeds when I let off the gas it thumps really hard. We took it to the tranny shop and they said it was the rear end.
So we had that rebuilt. It was ok for a couple of months (rarely drive it). But it is doing it again, but seems to be getting worse. When in this mode it seems to feel like its dragging. We recently serviced the transmission filter. Replaced fluid. We reset the computer to relearn daily driving. But didn't work.
I was thinking of replacing the 4x4 module and or solenoids in tranny, or 4x4 motor on transfer case, but I don't want to spend money if it doesn't fix the problem. No trouble codes. Are all these issues related to one another? Is one issue causing the other problem to exist?
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When you turn the interior ac temperature from cool to warm there is a loud knocking noise coming from under the dash. I am new to working on explorers but it seem like its coming from the black box nearest the firewall above the transmission tunnel. When you turn it to cold the noise almost completely goes away. The noise gets even louder when you mess with the selector for "max ac" "head and feet" "feet" etc.
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Lexus 3.3L RX-330 Engine Noise - Part 3 - YouTube
I am concerned with an engine noise.
5 months ago we bought a 2005 Lexus RX-330. It had 109k miles on it (now has 113k). There is a faint but noticeable engine tap/ knock/ tick coming from the engine. I think it has the 3.3l, 3gr-fe engine.
I have listed some observations:
The sound does not occur on startup, when the car is completely cold.
The sound starts after 5-10 minutes of driving or idling.
The sound diminishes and is almost imperceptible after another 10 minutes of driving.
The sound is only noticeable at idle.
The sound/tap seems to occur about 5 times a second at 600 rpm (idle)
The sound increases frequency with rising of rpm.
At approximately 2k rpm the sound cannot be heard.
If the vehicle is stopped after driving, allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes and then restarted, the sound will be loudest even though the engine is still hot.
The engine is quiet overall with exception of this sound. The fuel injector sound is the next loudest sound.
The sound doesn't seem to have gotten louder in the last 5 months but it may have gotten just slightly louder by my estimation.
I can hear the sound inside the vehicle and outside as well.
No other symptoms are present. I had the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner replaced as maintenance and as a possible solution to this problem right after buying the vehicle.
The mechanic heard the sound but told me he wasn't sure of the cause. He and I agree that it sounds like an internal engine noise. It is not a pulley, idler or exhaust sound. The mechanic told me not to worry about it and it was a normal sound. He also said to start troubleshooting would get expensive. I am still concerned.
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2003 Ford Sport Trac with 4.0L SOHC engine
I started having this problem after I decided to do a tune up because of another minor unrelated problem (start up taking 2+ cranks sometimes and fine when gas is full... I'm going to replace the fuel pump for that but not until i resolve the more pressing issue)
Before the problem I had spark plugs and wires (all but #3) replaced by my dad and he also put in some Fuel Cleaner into the gas tank. He took it to a local mechanic and had the mechanic replace the #3 spark and wire and check the others and also replace the fuel filter.
After that my car was taken to jiffy lube where engine oil was changed... as well something else but I dont know what because no one is able to tell me.... my dad had one of his employees take it and the employee took it upon himself to get other things done but he doesn't know what.
And then when I got my car back after the weekend is when this issue started.
First I noticed a rattling (like a plastic is caught on a fan blade and it is hitting something as it goes round and round) right after engine is started. And on the roads, when I try to accelerate, it will accelerate- but very slowly as if my engine had no power.
When I floor my gas pedal, the car will continue to drive at a constant speed and I can start to hear a really fast rattling which I am not sure if it is the same thing making the rattling sound I hear at start up.
I've gotten the following codes : 300, 301, 303, 316
I have since then had my spark plugs rechecked, wires for #1, 2, 3 and 4 replaced with another brand. There was no long term change but I have noticed that every time messed with the wires (when spark plugs were changed, when wires were changed and when sparks were checked... etc) for about 3 drives right after it the car feels more powerful and smooth and then it will go back to driving like crap.
I have also changed the CKP sensor (advice of the Auto Zone) and there has been no change.
I have also replaced the coil pack this weekend and no change.
I have bought the more expensive wires but didn't change them since 2nd set for 1, 2, 3 and 4 has not made changes.
Currently: Only thing I have more noticed is that the car when first driven, feels okay at start up. I can accelerate from 0 to 30 with decent power and time and as long as i dont floor the gas and only lightly depress the gas the car will continue to accelerate with decent power and speed.
However, anytime the engine is strained (like going up a hill) I loose speed. and AFTER any time the engine is strained, i will no longer be able to accelerate with decent power and time.
The car at this point feels like it it trying, almost sounds and feels gritty if that makes any sense, and if i try to at least keep speed, the engine sounds change but no increase in speed. At this point I usually just try tapping lightly on the gas and it will eventually get upto 30mph and of course more effort to go beyond and continually increase the speed.
It takes me a good few minutes for me to go from 0 to 35 and another few minutes to get upto 45. (Now everyone drives around me after a complete stop because I cannot even get to 20 right away like most normal working cars.)
I really would hate to replace one part at a time to play guess and check but I also don't know any true mechanics in the area that can really drive, listen and look and determine what exactly is going on without playing guess and check with every little and big parts that are involved. I have seen some people replace the intake manifold, O2 sensors, CKP/CAM sensors, cylinders...
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Weird thing yesterday, noticed a rotational tick sound coming from the right rear wheel during slow backing up with the windows down. Sounded like debris stuck between the dust shield and the rotor. Had that tinny sound. Anyway, no dealer around in the town I was at. Closest is over two hours away and not in the direction of home which was four hours away.
I was visiting friends, and decided to jack the truck up and pull the wheel off and clear whatever debris was stuck in there. Pulled the wheel and didn't see anything. Rotated the hub and could still hear the noise. I pulled the caliper next and made sure nothing was in there. There wasn't. Ok, must be in behind the disc in the parking brake shoe area and making contact with the dust shield. I pulled the caliper mount and then the rotor. Still didn't see any debris or anything foreign. What I did see was a bunch of metal filings on the inner side of the brake shoes all around the backing plate. Also a fair amount of metal filings in the drum portion of the rotor.
Rotated the hub again, and noticed the noise coming from the retaining pin cap on the rear most shoe. It was rubbing against the backside of the hub. As the hub rotated the cap spun and made noise as the spring gave way and turned. This made sense for the noise and the metal filings. The cap was still in place and the pin was not being touched yet by the back of the hub. I reassembled it all and decided the further drive home was not going cause more harm than what was already done.
Dropped off at my local dealer this morning and explained the above. The technician confirmed it as well, and ordered the a new retaining pin. Some how it got out of tolerance and caused itself to be longer than it should have. The tolerance appeared close from the front side shoe that was not rubbing.
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My wife drives a 2004 2WD Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC motor. We have had a problem now for over a year and a half of it randomly dying. There is not telling when the engine might die besides the fact that it happens when you let off the accelerator to brake or make a turn. It only happens at slow speeds. At a stop light or stop sign usually. The car will always start right back up. It has been to a couple of Ford dealerships and they haven't been able to diagnose the problem. The check engine light is on and it is giving the code p0456. This code definition is an EVAP small leak detected. Probable causes for the code are:
1. Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap.
2. EVAP Canister broke, hose cracked or not connected.
3. Purge or vent solenoid defective.
4. Vacuum leak at engine.
I don't think it's the fuel cap that would be making the car die. I used carburetor cleaner (I know its not the safest ) and sprayed on the vacuum lines that I could find to try and diagnose a vacuum line leak but nothing seemed to effect the engine. Do one of the other probable causes from p0456 could be causing the dying or could it be something else???
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I just recently started driving... with a second hand hyundai accent. Whenever i stop at traffic light with engine on, i hear tick tick noise (probs from engine?). it seems to be coming from front of the driver seat. When I start at the beginning, I do not hear any noise and also when i am driving i do not hear any noise or lets say nothing audible like this. Its only when i stop my car and while i am waiting, i hear this tick tick noise(very clear and audible).
Is it engine metallic part making sound when cooling down? When I start my car I see symbol for low oil pressure, batter life, check engine, but as soon the engine starts these symbol disappear which I think is normal behaviour.
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It's a hot 110 degree day in my 08, we have 5 in the family. Parked for three hours and on return starts up normally. Noticed low torque and slow acceleration on take off. Got on the freeway and slowly got up to 65MPH with obviously only the ICE working.
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Girlfriend just bought a used Elantra. She told me about an issue shes been having with the car and how it feels as though its towing a trailer. I drove it for a day and noticed a few things. Vehicle has 110,000 miles
1. No CEL
2. Tranny seems to NOT be slipping (Revs climb just as slow as Speed)
3. Car feels VERY heavy at times. Especially on a start up-hill
4. No sputtering/misfires
5. Shifts up and down smooth
What I've tried so far:
1. Replaced Spark Plugs
2. Sea-Foam
3. Cleaned MAF/Checked Airfilter
4. Removed and Inspected BOTH Catalytic Converters and both seem to be intact. *plan on doing a back-pressure test as soon as I get the gauge from my buddy*
5. Checked timing marks
I put 1/4 can of seafoam in crank case and plan on letting it "run-in" for 25 miles or so. I plan on doing an oil change tonight as well as make sure the brakes are not hanging up (I should have checked this first, thinking back...but hind-sight is always 20/20 ) .
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1997 King Cab XE Pickup... Over the last couple of years, a noise comes from the dash of my pickup at speeds above about 30MPH, especially during acceleration. It is especially bad when I drop from 5th to 4th gear to pass someone (worse on a hill, extra load) but quiets some when going back to 5th gear (never completely goes away). What is making this noise??
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The experts who are installing the dash wiring harness on my camry (not exaggeration they really are that good) installed everything perfectly with the exception of the dash not responding. The dash is connected properly but none of the lights nor gauges are reacting. The car turns on and all is good except for this.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 110,000 mi. Sometimes when I accelerate the ICE (gas engine) simply spins (as if the clutch was slipping in a convention car) and there is little acceleration and the gas engine doesn't shut off when coasting or braking as it always has in the past. The battery screen shows it is not charging when this happens and is at 1 bar (purple). then sometimes the hybrid battery gauge will go from 1 bar to fully charged (green) in under a minute or 2 and then show discharging just as fast which isn't possible. It goes away after a restart sometimes but then happens again soon. Is it the TP sensor, Hybrid battery computer or ? I have gotten all kinds of codes including P0a93, P0a80, P1400, P040a.
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The prius stock battery is weak compared to my wifes Mercury Mariner battery. The Mariner acceleration on battery alone is excellent - she can get up to 30 mph in no time on just the battery. In my prius it has very slow acceleration at a dead stop while running only on battery. Is it possible to buy aftermarket (stronger) batteries for the prius so I can at least driver the car up to 30 mph only on battery?
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4.6 liter V8 limited.
Problem 1 : Driving into a small town I slowed to 35 mph and set cruise control to hold speed. Suddenly a loud warning tone/ beep sounded and the engine shut off. I coasted into a parking lot and restarted and drove the rest of the way home without incident. (another 1-1/2 hour drive). Could I have had an auto shut down because of a low fluid sensor or something similar?
My cold antifreeze was below the cold fill range but still was visible in the container. The temperatures were not high and the heater still worked. All other levels were normal.
Problem 2 : It also have an irritating buzz in the dash some where. Sounds almost like you would imagine a speedometer cable could sound, except no cable. Could it be the speedometer? It is intermittent and seems related to either speed or RPM.
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I have a 2005 with 165K on it. Just within the last 2 weeks, at start up, no matter what level the charge shows on the display, the HV battery will almost fully discharge and then come back up to full charge within a mile of driving. I just replaced the 12V battery thinking this could have been an issue, but it didn't change anything. The car never acted like this since I bought it in 05. When it drops to the discharge level, It running on ICE only, with the typical slower acceleration. What could be going on?
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I have a Hyundai Santa fe 2004 6cyl 2.7 L , AWD. I am having problem of slow acceleration which is worse after a stop sign or red light. Sometimes while taking turns I feels like that I will not move and I was lucky to be not hit by a Car coming from opposite direction while taking a left turn today.
The Truck’s exhaust pipe broke recently and a auto garage welded it. But I am facing the above problem immediately after the repair of exhaust pipe. If I put more pressure on gas pedal then a mal function indicator comes and today I took it to another mechanic and he gets the error code of P0303 –engine misfire and wants to charge me ~ $600 $ to replace spark plugs and wires. The malfunction indicator goes off also while I am driving and can comes back after a while or a day. With the indicator on, the car drives erratic (minor jolts ) for few meters and then its fine. Since when I am driving on highways then I can go higher speeds without any problem. Is it still misfire issue???
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When I start my 2013 Prius (the car just passed the 1000 mileage marker) cold, I notice a tick coming from the ICE that almost sounds like a lifter tick. I do remember reading somewhere (I've read so much Prius literature in the past couple of weeks, I could begin to guess where) that the car, when cold, fires after DTC. I noticed this twice now, once when the car had about 500 miles on it, and again this morning, though I'm sure this is occurring each time I start it cold. Is this noise typical or is this something I should bring to the dealership's attention?
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Knock or tick at 1000 rpm. Truck has 20000 miles on it. Dealer replaced cam phasers. What next?
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06' F150 4x4 XLT SCrew 29K-mi
I have a rattle of some sort I can hear coming from underneath towards the rear while under acceleration. Usually hear mostly at certain RPM and not through entire accel to hwy speed. Do not hear it while in Park and reving engine, but on the road I hear it. Mostly I think after it gets hot or something.
No driveability issue only rattle? While I was reving in Park I could hear a bubbling after I let off the pedal. Is that normal. I don't think it is the same noise/rattle.
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2004 Ford Explorer4.0140k miles... For about 3 weeks or so i have been having this squeaking noise similar to the noise you hear when your breaks are worn out and you need to replace them. It sounds like it is coming from the right rear tire, i have changed all breaks all the way around and today i finally changed the rear passenger caliper thinking that it was causing the noise but it is still there. I am also driving on my spare which happens to be the same size as my regular tires it just does not have the rim on it.
I also found out that prior to changing the rear passenger tire it was wobbling and i did not know till a friend pointed it out, the rim does have a really minor dent but i am not sure if that was causing it to wobble or if the wobble is what caused the noises to appear. I have been driving the car for about 3 months and it started 3 weeks ago. There is also a clicking noise that i hear but i cant point out if it is coming from that side of the car, i can only hear it when i am driving slow.
Also the squeaking comes and goes, it is not always there and when it is there and i apply the breaks it is still there. I have done some research and a lot of people have a similar problem but the noise will go away when they finally apply the breaks, my noise still remains even when breaks are applied. What it can be, i did a little more research and now i am thinking it can be the ujoints on the driveshaft?
Here are a few pics of the dent i was talking about on the tire, could this minor dent cause the tire to wobble.....
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I am in the process of tracking down a very intermittent "tick" sound coming from the rear driver side door area. How to remove the door panel.
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