Ford - Explorer :: 2004 - Won't Turn Over - Slapping Sound From Under?
Nov 23, 2011
I have a 04 explorer with 100k miles. I went out to start it the other day and it wouldn't turn over. It would start to crank but acted like something was in a bind and wouldn't let it turn. Finally after trying and trying it turned over one time and sounded like it had a bad exhaust leak under the car. i had the starter and battery tested and they are fine.
Finally I got the car started by jumping it off and now I'm getting a slapping sound from under the car. The oil was just changed and the level is fine but now has a very black tint to it but doesn't appear to have water/fuel in it. The explorer now starts and idles fine but does have a very noticeable noise. There were no issues leading up to this problem, it was driven parked and then the next morning wouldn't start.
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My 2005 Accent started making this weird slapping sounds last night. I hesitate to call it knocking b/c it's not that loud. It sounds almost like if you put a some cards in the spokes of a bicycle (weird description, I know). But basically the sound speeds up as I accelerate and vice versa. It started last night as I was pulling up to the house. When I opened up the hood, it sounded like the sound was coming from the top/top back of the engine. I recently had all belts and radiator (small leak) replaced about 2k miles ago. What it may be? Car only has 67k and I drive 95% on the highway at about 70mph. I drove my truck to work this morning so I don't make the problem worse until I know what it is.
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I was just driving home and noticed and sort of slapping sound from my rear left tire - I pulled over at a gas station to take a look at it and found no issues with the tire itself (bubbles/flat spots) or any irregular wear, my next best guess is that the wheel bearing has gone bad, is there a way i can test this for the rear wheels without putting it on a lift?
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I've got a 2003 Jetta with the 20v 1.8t, today I was driving along and when I slowed down coming into town, my car started making this sound that I can only describe as sounding like a tractor. It sounds like something is rattling under the valve cover.
Here's a video with the sound : [URL] ....
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I just bought this 2008 santa fe with a 3.3 V-6. It has 200kms on it. Here is the problem- I start the engine, and for the 1st second of running there is NO noise,.....but a second later it sounds like a chain slapping around in the engine HARD. it lasts for about 2 seconds and then the motor is quiet. It seems like the longer the car sits,..the worse it gets. If your only letting it sit for 20 minutes or so, you wont hear it.
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Our 2010 Prius makes a loud metallic slapping sound whenever we drive over the lane marking reflectors on the roads.
Audio recording included....
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'91 Blazer, S10, 2wd, 300,000 mi ....when weather cold, and car cold, I hear a loud slapping sound that I thought was a fan belt, but checked and they are ok...when car warms up, or when weather warm, I don't hear the slapping..... sounds like belt against plastic,,,,???
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It only does it when it is fairly cold out and when it sits overnight. I will get into my 2000 4.0 Explorer and when I put my foot on the brake my right side turn signal comes on, it doesn't flash it just comes on and stays on. When I let off the brake it goes out. It will do it maybe four or five times and then work fine all day. Its just the right side and the indicator on the dash comes on too. I haven't looked at a wiring diagram yet to see if there is a connection between the two.
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I replaced my right front axle a week ago because I was getting severe popping/clicking noises. The boot was torn on the axle and I had grease all over the inside of my rim etc...
The popping/clicking sound was gone immediately after replacing the axle. Now starting yesterday, exactly one week after I replaced it I noticed the popping/clicking sound coming back. It was faint at first but started getting louder. Now today it's almost as bad as it was before I replaced the axle. I still have to get underneath and see if I can hear where it's coming from? Think the axle is bad again? It is an after market Axle, ToughOne is the brand I believe.
Just for a quick history. All four wheel bearings were replaced about two years ago. All four ball joints about a year and a half ago. I replaced the outer tie rod ends about two weeks ago.
2004 Ford Explorer, 4X4, 4.0 Flex Fuel
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I have a 2004 Sport Trac XLT (without sunroof). I recently noticed my rear driver side turn signal was out. Turns out i have quite a few cables corroded from within. The cables are warped together as one fat cable running from the front to the back along the driver side in a "tunnel".
The reason for corrosion seems to be that underneath the floor it's soaking wet. It's dryer towards the break and more wet closer to the mid console. (it may just dry quicker near the break.
The water does not smell of anything. We haven't had rain for a while and i would be surprised if it was rain that staid for so long. All in all that makes me suspect the AC.
I'd like to stop the leak and then replace the cables, at least the stretch where corrosion have occurred. How to troubleshoot this? I am using the car to commute so I can't rip it apart too much.
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I'm trying to get friend's 04 F150 4x4 started. I think it might be the ignition switch. Here's what I've done. Turn the Key and nothing happens. Not even a clicking sound from the battery.
-verified the battery had a good charge and that terminals were clean, connections were tight.
-checked the fuses in the passenger side kick panel, none were blown
-Determined there was power to the primary Pos wire going to the starter , but no power being sent to the smaller wire that goes to solenoid at the starter.
-Hooked a jumper wire to the starter solenoid and engine did crank (so starter is good and battery is making good connection)
This is why I'm thinking its the ignition switch.
1) Where is the ignition switch located?
2)How can I test the ignition switch?
3)Could it be the "cylinder lock and keys" that is faulty?
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Any turbulence in the exhaust note, ie. slapping noise at full throttle. I have run 3 different mufflers in one year on my true dual and also gutted the cats. I currently have 2 1/2inch true dual with gutted cats and cherry bomb extreme mufflers. I Also am running an H-pipe, but I feel it isn't doing its job so well to balance the two sides. My trucks exhaust is almost perfect, it starts mean and loud, and has limited drone at highway speeds and great flow and power, but when I am smashing down the throttle the exhaust goes everywhere and makes all sorts of weird noise.
I almost feel that I should of went 3 inch to allow for me air to get out of the motor, I think the 2.5inch is restrictive possibly hence the air is having a tough time squeezing out of the system. But anyway do you think if i ran an X pipe it would work? Its my last option because otherwise i may convert back to the a single 3 inch dual 2.5inch outlet again, i miss my old set ups mean consistent tone at full throttle.
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I'm in a situation where I may be having to tow my 3500# boat/trailer with my '04 Explorer 4WD (this is well within the max tow limit, per the manual). I have the 4.0L with the 5 spd auto tranny and 3.73ls gears. I've towed the boat a handful of times with this vehicle and had a good experience every time. Now I'm looking at this being my primary towing vehicle, towing once or twice a month in the summer. The car only has 48000 miles on the ticker and is in pristine condition, so mechanically it's sound.
I asked my mechanic what he thought of this arrangement and he hates the Explorers, so he's giving a biased response. Have any of you towed something on a somewhat regular basis with this, or a similar, vehicle? Any issues? My mechanic keeps going on about the transmission seal blowing when under a heavy load.
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Went out this morning, fired right up, then banging noise and a slapping feeling internal to the engine, oily smell, and dead. I fear the worst.
Can one transplant a newer version v10 into these things or is it time to start parting it out and shopping for a new one?
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'04 Jetta Wagon TDI I just bought for my brother and his family. The car is in unbelievable condition even with 206k on it. I have met my match in automotive anal-retentiveness as there's not even a door ding on it. The tech who did the pre-purchase inspection wanted to buy it from me before I'd even paid for it!
The Hubster drove the car home after paying up and found that the "tink-tink-tink" sound from the turn signals continues on after the signal has been turned off. It's much worse when using the right turn signal than the left. It often does it for no logical reason, like when driving on the highway.
I owned a '00 VR6 GTI for 12 1/2 years (bought new) and never had this problem so I'm at a loss. We want to give the family a trouble-free car and are hoping this is an easy and inexpensive fix, not one of those really expensive .
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So...I'm driving home yesterday and hit my left turn signal when all I get is a fast clicking sound. The light on the dash did not light up at all. Right signal is working fine.
Checked it out in the driveway -- my left signal is totally out. No front, rear or dash light when I hit the left turn signal. When I hit the hazard switch, I get only a right blinking light. The right turn signal functions as normal.
I thought this was probably a bad bulb so I replaced both the front AND the rear bulbs. Got no love - same results.
2008 Prius...
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Car is in for knocking sound made when you are stopped and you turn the wheel quick from left to right. Also does the same thing when you hit a bump. Dealer is saying it was always that way I say bs. 2008 prius.
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Was standing in the driveway when someone was leaving in the Prius -- All of a sudden three or four thumps -- I guess when the ICE started -- sounded just like a slapping belt ... but no belts correct? ...... this was loud.
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My truck has been sitting for a couple of months while I work out an issue with the guy I bought it from. It worked perfectly fine but now it will crank but not turn over. Could it be that the key has deactivated? I looked under the #1 sparkplug cover and found it to be chewed up and the wire shield looks as if it has melted. I understand it could be other things like fuel filter, fuel pump but it acts as if possibly a filter clogged? I realize I am female but I would rather ask here than have a mechanic come out and tell me it's something that it is not. 2002 Explorer Sport ....
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My Jetta has had an off-and-on clicky turn signal sound without turn signals or hazard lights actually blinking. I put up with it for a while, but recently it's been more clicky than not. I'm aware this is a common problem. I had already tried the cleaner spray "trick" which made the problem worse if anything. Today, I removed my signal stalk as described here and gave it a cleaning. After re-assembling, the clicky problem didn't go away, and now the high beams are always on (even with the key out of the ignition, and the car isn't running). I temporarily dealt with this by pulling fuses 18 and 19 for high beams. It's an ok short-term workaround. Low beams still work fine.
I'm considering replacing the hazard signal relay, but a while ago I messed up while trying to use ghetto removal keys to pull my radio.
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I've been noticing this one single "metallic" click sound a few months ago, it happens whenever I turn the steering wheel a little over 90 degrees.
The steering intermediate shaft recall has been done summer of last year. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with this sound I'm hearing.
This is a video I made
If you watch this video, you need to turn it up really loud to hear the faint click sound every time I turn the steering wheel past 90 degrees.
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