I have 2007 explorer 4.6 v8. The check engine light is on, and i can only fill the gas tank about 3/4 full, after moving the gas nozzle all around and taking about 15 minutes. I read a few different things while searching. Like vapor canister need to be replaced. or the vent hose needs to be replaced.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe. If I fill the tank to full, or close to full I will have a fuel smell in the car until the tank runs under 3/4. If I keep it under 3/4 I usally do not get the smell in the car.
The dealer could not figure it out and I still have this issue. It seems the smell is more in the front of the cabin then the rear. It just could seem that way since the smell is very strong. I have to park the car with the windows open.
There are no fuel leaks, no fuel on the ground, no drips, and the no spillage when I filled the tank.
I have a 2010 ford edge. The last two times I tried to fill the gas tank, the nozzle on the pump shuts off as if the tank is full. The tank has not reached it's capacity. I have to "dribble" the gas into the tank, and even then it seems to be backing up the pipe. A simple two-minute fill takes ten minutes.
View 3 RepliesSince purchase, I've had one gas fill up at 694 miles. That was four or five weeks ago and it's still full. My EV ratio is 65% (1100 miles) and will continue to increase. I realize I'm carrying a lot of dead weigh for weeks. For those with high EV mode use, what's your recommendation with gas fill ups? I'm thinking no more than fives gallons for daily commute and around town.
View 14 Replies2003 Ford Explorer fuel gauge does not show full after fill up. The Ford service stated that it can take up to 17 minutes (of running time) for the fuel gauge to show full after fill up.
View 7 Replies I have a 2001 Prius with about 175K miles on it. I was headed to the beach this past Tuesday and had an oil change done right before I left. The trip here from NC to Myrtle Beach was about 200 miles. On the way back today, after I stopped to fill up on gas the 'check engine' light came on for the rest of the trip back home. I went tonight to Autozone and got back all the codes that are P0420, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0440 ....
My question is...Is it possible that all of those codes are somehow the result of my recent oil change? (Oil overflow?, etc.) I've been doing some searching in the archives for those codes and oil/fluid changes appear to be a possibility with all of them.
Just a little background, I've already had the hybrid battery replaced in this car a little more than a year ago. I've had no more warning lights come on since that time until today.
I have an issue that keeps recurring intermittently that I cannot seem to figure out. The car is a 2006 Sonata with a 4-cylinder and about 130k miles. It started about 6 months ago when the check engine light came on 25 miles or so after a fill up. The code shown was P2097 (Post catalyst system too rich.) I reset the light by disconnecting the battery. I tried adding some gas dryer and premium fuel and that seemed to work, but the light would intermittently come on. I also replaced the spark plugs (put dielectric grease on the boots) and had the exhaust system checked for leaks. I also put in fuel injector cleaner several times and cleaned the MAF sensor. In April, the light was coming on quite often, so I replaced the post catalyst oxygen sensor and reset the light.
The light stayed off for 600 miles or so and then came back on. This time the code is P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). An exhaust system shop said that there does not appear to be anything wrong with the exhaust system including the catalytic converter itself. The car does have a slight miss at idle, but performs fine other than that. Also, if the car is not driven for a few days, there is some valve train noised when the engine is first started which lasts about 5 seconds.
Had my C4 now for 3 weeks. About a week ago filled it up for the first time. Three days later the CEL came on so took it to the dealer (checked gas cap first and it seemed fine). Dealer told me that the code indicated that I gassed up with the engine on. This is my first car with push button start. I pushed it once, car said "see you" and I filled up. Am I not turning it completely off? Is there something more I should be doing?
View 1 RepliesThe ole 5.4l hit a snag today. I was on my way to fill her up and she started sputtering and damn near died! i filled her up and it was like nothing ever happened. Took her to AutoZone and the diagnosis was a Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor.
I have a connection with Bumper-to-Bumper to get the part for cheap but I'm not sure if i want to dive into either moving the bed or dropping the tank. I'd prefer to move the bed.
2007 Pacifica with 4.0 will not fill unless you dribble the fuel into the tank. I have cleared the vent hose and know it is clean. Do I need to change the Carbon Filter and Solenoid/Evaporation Valve on the Front of the Carbon Filter?
View 7 RepliesI am having an issue with by club wagon. This vehicle has dual tanks. The front tank doesn't work (and never has since I purchased it a couple of years ago....bad fuel pump I am guessing}.
A couple of months ago the fuel pump went out on the rear tank and I had it replaced. I now have a peculiar problem. Fuel is coming out of the front tank fill spout when the engine is running. There seems to be a tremendous amount of pressure building up in the front tank...even though I am not using it.
I would seem as though fuel is being pumped out of the rear tank and into the front tank to a certain pressure point, and then on to the engine. One solution would seem to be to remove the front tank completely from the system, but I don't know how to do that, or if it should be done. After driving and coming to a stop, fuel is pouring out through the gas cap on the front tank. I. Don't need to use the front tank as I am just using this as a work truck.
So we were getting the annoying check engine light pretty religiously when we got to a half tank or less of fuel. In the trouble shooting I guess maybe there was a bad ground or something that required a little work then they told us the the intake flap motor was bad. Or at least was not returning the correct values.
So they ordered a new one and replaced it on Friday. I was looking at the paperwork, seemed like a fun job, pull the intake manifold, replace the part, put back together.
In the end, the experience with Emich VW in Denver was great. The service writer was awesome and you can even pick a tech to work on your car. I think that's a fine idea.
i have a continuous Check Engine light in my 2008 ford explorer. Dealer recommend replacing a sensor but I do not know which sensor to change.
View 4 RepliesThe car is great. Filled up with first tank of diesel last Sunday. About 100 miles into a long ride east, the CEL came on without explanation. I double-checked the gas cap, and it had been replaced properly.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2012 f250 6.2L gas that the check engine light, low fuel light and the fuel gauge says it's empty. The truck has a full tank of gas. I am in camp for another 2 weeks and my girlfriend is driving the truck. I am thinking a blown fuse or disconnect the battery to reset the computer could solve it. Hoping it's something I can instruct her to do on her own over the phone.
View 13 RepliesMy 2007 Explorer (XLT, V6 4.0L, 4WD, 175k miles) has been experiencing a check engine light, intermittently, for the past few months. I took it to AutoZone to read the code and they gave me a printout for P0193. For awhile, the light would go off after I filled the tank with gas (usually the next day) and would come again as the level in the tank decreased (typically around 1/4 of a tank). Then about two months ago, the behavior seemed erratic and I could no longer predict when it would appear. During the past couple of weeks I only recall seeing the CEL once (briefly); it's mostly been off. Saturday night I was out driving and it came on again.
About two hours later, my vehicle "conked out" on me. It started hesitating (it's been a very long time since I've run out of gas, but that's what it reminded me of). Fortunately, there was no traffic and I was able to get it off the road but didn't have enough momentum to get it into a defined parking space before it quit. I sat there for awhile pondering my options (not too many since it was the middle of the night and I don't have road service). After about 10 mins or so, I decided to see if I could get it started. It did start and I was able to drive it home (< 10 miles). It's been sitting in the driveway since because I'm afraid of getting stranded if I drive it again. BTW, I was low on gas when it died -- about 50 miles to E (was headed to the gas station when it happened, but took it home instead).
After everything I've read the past few days, I'm expecting that I need to replace at least the fuel filter, the fuel rail pressure sensor and the intake gaskets for the manifold. I am not a mechanic, don't have diagnostic tools, my funds are really limited right now and I'm pretty much on my own to figure this out.
Q1: For those who may have some knowledge about this particular issue, does the intermittent nature of the CEL give any clues to which part(s) might be malfunctioning?
Q2: I found a replacement FRPS made by Bosch on Amazon, significantly cheaper -- is this brand ok or should i stick to Motorcraft?
Q3: Any advice on the manifold gasket replacements (is one brand better than another)?
Q4: Do I really need the special tool to replace the fuel filter?
The questions above are no longer relevant. I'm in the process of "locating" the sensor. I have the air hose and throttle body off. Now I'm looking at the EGR valve. It looks like I will have to disconnect the it from the large pipe beneath it. Will I also need to remove the two smaller bolts that mount it to the manifold cover, or can I remove the cover & valve together? It looks like those little buggers are going to be challenging since they are facing the back of the engine compartment. This is rather slow-going for me, but there's no turning back now.
My 1998 Explorer with 120,000 mile on it. The check light just came on. I have had several auto part stores plug in the scan tool and there were no error codes. I'm looking for the reset button location. I am also wondering should there be something missed by the scan tools, will the light activate should there be a real problem.
View 9 RepliesI have an 01 Explorer Sportrac with a 4.0, 105,000 milles. Got the check engine light with the EGR low flow code. I get this code about once a year and a new DPFE usually takes care of it. I get the sensor from Advanced Auto which explains the short life I am guessing. Last time i replaced the sensor the light came back on a couple weeks later.
After highway driving smoke starts pouring freon under the hood, passenger side, but by the time I get the hood opened its done. Cant tell where it is coming from. Could a faulty DPFE cause the smoke or do you think the EGR valve may be sticking? I was going to try a Ford DPFE this time but I hate to just throw parts at it. Where do the smoke is coming out of, air filter box????? cant see anything else over there related to the EGR system......
2001 explorer sport, need to reset and clear check engine light I know the problem a small pinhole in exhaust that opens up and i fill it in How do i reset check engine light...
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Toyota Rav 4 with apporximately 140,000 miles. When I fill the gas tank the check engine light comes on, the engine runs rough (like a misfire). Diagnostic code comes back a "lean mixture,bank 1". When the tank reaches approximately 3/4 of a tank the light goes out and the engine runs smooth and fine. Then, when the tank reaches just belwo hal a tank the light once again comes on and starts running rough again. Have drained the tank, used dry gas, Startron to counter the ethonal etc. Nothing seems to work.
View 1 RepliesI loaned my car to a friend for 2 days. While driving, she allowed it to run out of gas. The check engine light came on as soon as gas was put into the tank and has never gone off. I now need to get inspected, but afraid it will not pass. Someone said to put "Garanteed To Pass" in the gas tank. I have never had any problems with this car. I am the original owner, and I keep the oil changed and the filter clean. The car runs perfectly with 120K miles! What should I do?
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