Ford - Explorer :: Ignition Cylinder Replaced Now 2002 4WD Will Not Start
Jun 7, 2015
My son has a 2002 Explorer 4WD EB that needed new valve and intake manifold gaskets. I pulled it apart this weekend (battery disconnected) and replaced (don't get me started on the passenger valve cover with that *@&$^ EGR valve in the way). He's also had issues with the key being removable from the ignition when the vehicle is still running (worn key and/or cylinder most likely). So when I put his key in to test my gasket job, it won't go in all the way. After much trial and effort, I call a mobile locksmith who has to drill out the old cylinder and rekey/replace it (keyed to use the same, single old key we have).
Now, the cylinder turns happily with the old key. In the "Run" position, all the dash lights come on as they should, but turning then to "Start", caused a loud single click, then the dash goes out, and the engine never even tries to start. Then, nothing electrical in the car works unless I disconnect the battery for about 10 mins, then reconnect. Upon trying to start, the same thing happens (good dash lights at "Run", then single loud click from the engine compartment, then nothing. It seems maybe the PAT has lost its memory of the old key?
I watched and assisted the locksmith put the cylinder and PATS antenna back together, so I know connections/placement of that is good. At this point, I'm about to lose all the money I saved on the gasket job to the freakin' ignition issue.
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I replaced the ignition key lock cylinder on my 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE. I performed the re-learn process by cranking the engine over, then releasing to the ON position for about 9 minutes. During the 9 minutes the SECURITY light blinked the whole time, then at the end it went solid for a few seconds, then off. On the next cranking cycle I was able to start the engine and thought all was good. But now when I open the door the car beeps as if the key is left in the ignition and the automatic locks are disabled with the door opened.What is the problem and how do I fix it?
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I have a 99 explorer and the Ignition Lock Cylinder went out. I have ordered the parts and plan on changing it out myself. i was just wonders about any do's or don'ts.
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My boss gave me a 2002 f150 if i can get it started. No key and no paper work in order to get locksmith to replace key. The only way i have noticed to get it started is to drill through cylinder to get it out. Need to know how to get it going?
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Lock cylinder needs replacing. Was stuck in the off position and would not rotate. Finally freed it up so I can remove the cylinder.
Question is, will the key that comes with the new cylinder need to be programed. If so how is this done?
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I have a 2003 f150 that has a history of misfiring on one side. It started with a misfire on #1, then #4, and finally #2. I replaced all 8 plugs last year and each COP as it gave the misfire code over the course of the last 3 years. My latest run in was with #2, and I replaced the COP today and took it for a test drive. It was running pretty rough at idle, which I assumed was from disconnecting the battery, but then the stuttering started but it felt a little different than the standard misfire that usually didnt pop up until 40-50mph.
This stutter was more constant, and it also let up when I would coast. I only took it for a 4-6mile test drive and toward the end, the "Service Engine Soon" light started blinking and then went off by the time I got home. I parked it and noticed quite a lot of crackling noises that seemed more than normal, but it was a hot day and I was pissed that I didnt fix it so I cant say for certain if it was out of the norm or not, but it seemed louder and more frequent. Then I got to worrying about my cats going bad.
So, my questions are:
Could I have done something wrong when changing the COP?
What can the flashing "Service Engine Soon" light mean? Ive only seen a solid one before.
Should I be worried about the cat going bad since all the issues have been on that one side?
What should I do next?
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Drove 97 LHS home from work back at the end of June on a 100 plus day, it seemed fine, no indication of any problem. Got in it the next morning to go to work and it would not start. Cranks fine, hear fuel pump. So a few days pass before my husband can look at it. He did get codes. He replaced the ignition coil, put on a new fuel filter, and replaced a couple of modules. It would still not start. We towed it to a service station that we have used for years.
They replaced the camshaft sensor (and fixed the AC). I drove it for 8 days, no problems. Then on the morning of the 9th day, it would not start!! Exact same symptoms. So towed it again back to the service station. Then they said it was the PCM (control module). Husband went to junk yard to get one (much cheaper). Service shop put it in and then said that was not the problem and replaced the crankshaft sensor instead. Say it was ready to pick up. I went and paid again! Got key and came back later with husband to pick it up. IT would not start!!!
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I get a cold start ignition miss on cyl #2, then goes away (with a little revving), car then runs 100%. No problems during hot re-start. 2005 1.8T AWM. I replaced all four plugs (NGK OEM), all four coils (OEM latest rev), Coolant temp sensor (temp gauge was flaky). No other codes other than Cyl#2 miss and Random Cyl miss. Could I have a leaking (fuel dribbles out) injector on Cyl #2, causing a too-rich misfire when the car is cold started??
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Well...I had the ECM replaced on my 2002 F150. She ran great for about 60 miles. I had trouble with the key right off at the dealer - it wouldn't start, so I flipped the key over, and it started. Drove about 35 miles, and had starting issues a couple of times, but minor, and over quickly. Came home, and did not drive it for a week. Got in this morning, and it WOULD NOT START. Turned over normal, but won't start. Now I am stuck 15 miles from the dealer who programmed it, and no way to get it there. Anything that I can do to get it started to make the trip?
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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It turns over but just wont kick in. Battery good, fuel pump good, no check engine light. It did this a couple time this month, and finally started, not it wont start at all. Runs great otherwise without any issues. Just don't know where to look or what to look for. All fuses are good. Fuel pump safety is okay.
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I had to replace the ECU on my 2002 sc430. Although the original ECU was malfunctioningthe car started and was drivable (but the speedometer and odometer did not work, nor did the power steering). Following installing a used ECU, the car will now not start. I reset the ECU following the directions posted by others in this forum (both the gas pedal method and removing the fuses), but that has not fixed the problem. Do I need to have the dealer sync the key to the new ECU?
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I've been working on this explorer for a week now and I figured it's time to ask around. My explorer won't start/crank, I've replaced the starter, battery terminals, tested voltages/amps/relays and fuses, still nothing. All i get is a heavy clunk, like the starter is engaging but the flexplate won't budge. It's a 2002 4.0 xlt automatic.
I'm fearing the engine is seized as I've tried manually turning the engine with a socket on the crank pulley bolt and even with a breaker bar I can't get it to move. The thing ran fine a week ago and I can't imagine this thing would seize at barely over 100k miles, not hydrolocked or anything I can think of, are these engines prone for spontaneous seizure or am I missing something?
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Yesterday I drove my mom's 02 explorer to the gas station to fill it for her. After filling, I started it. It ran for several seconds and then died. It wouldn't start right away, so I let sit for a half hour, and then it started and I drove it 10 miles home. What is going on?
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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My parent's bought a 2002 Explorer 4.0 V6 very early, either late '01 or early '02 when it first came out. Besides the dash blackout (which I found a fix for, need to do) it's been plauged latley (since Nov/Dec 2010) with the intermittent issue of when... You turn the key on to start, you dont hear the fuel pump enguage, thus no start. Get towed, it works like a champ.
It's blown a fuse 1 or 2 times cause of this, had the fuel pump recently replaced (dec/jan this year) and just did it again. Our local Ford dealership figured the fuel pump went bad from sitting, the vehicle only has about 33k miles on it (dad dont drive much). What appears to be a bad fuel pump, only to have it get towed, or sit overnight and start like nothing ever happened?
Dad's ranting about not trusting the vehicle anymore, he's 80yrs old so I can't blame him for wanting to feel comfortable with knowing his vehicle should start, but it is a machine, they do break but we cant seem to get this fixed.
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2002 2.7L. Engine seized. Bought a replacement also from a 2002. Tried to start today and no spark. I just replaced the physically broken crank position sensor. That seemed like it would be an obvious and easy fix, but still no spark. The broken sensor had frayed/shorted wires. Could that have damaged the PCM /ECU? There is a 2003 Santa Fe at U-Pull-It that was running when it came in. Will the PCM from that work? I am running out of time. I have to have this running before I leave on a flight tomorrow night. I do have a code reader (if I can find it) but I can't imaging it would have any codes if it hasn't started since I had the battery out. Not sure how that works.
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I have a Saturn Ion 2, 05. I will intermittently not start. I put the key in the ignition, power comes on, turn the key, it clicks a couple of times and then everything turns off. The key is then locked in the ignition. It is a new key. My old key looked chewed up. The only way to get the care to release my key is to open the hood and wait a few minutes and then shut the hood. Power will come back on and it will release my key. I used to be able to start it after that but now it seems like it is becoming more and more difficult to start it. I have read about a loose fuse box under the hood, replacing battery, replacing ignition switch and resetting passcode. Im not sure where to start first. I do not have the extended warranty and am on a tight budget.
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2002 vw Passat GLX 4motion... Car has been driving fine with no issues. Then out of the blue it just won't start back up. Battery is 6 months old. And wouldn't start with a jump. I think it is a completely different issue. The power windows stopped working but other features do work like stereo power seats interior lights...Main problem is no lights on dash whatsoever. But when key turns from accessories position to starting position nothing happens. No clicking, no resistance between positions it is as if the ignition is just missing..?
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I have a 2002 Explorer with 147K that makes a chirping sound when I start it and the engine is cold. So far I have replaced the serpentine tension-er and the water pump. After about 10 minutes of running the noise stops. With the belt off the idler pulley spins freely. It does have the original power steering pump.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impalah 100k miles that frequently won't start. When I put the key in the ignition, I get lights, radio, and all electrical signs. But no sound from the engine. No matter how many times I try to turn the ignition, I get nothing.
But then when I stop trying and then come back to the car 5 to 10 minutes later, the car will start with no problem. This seems to happen randomly--sometimes first thing in the morning, sometimes after being parked for an hour. I can go for days with no problems and then it will start happening (randomly) again.
I just brought the car back from a dealership--they couldn't reproduce the problem and can't find anything wrong with the car. What systems or parts might be malfunctioning?
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