I have a '98 F150 front 60/40 seat going into a '77 shortbox F100. I've searched and found a lot of info on repairing a lumbar support but nobody seems to mention how to get the stupid off. I don't want to break anything but I can't see any screws or clips. Does it just pull off with force?
View 1 RepliesI can move the lumbar support up or down, but I can't deflate it & it's quite the pain. First off, is it an air bladder or a cable? I could really care less if it ever works again as long as I could get it to relax/deflate, is there a cheap/easy way to do it?
View 5 RepliesI just picked up a 2011 Golf TDI a week ago and so far, I love it! I have about 600 miles on it now and I have noticed that the driver's side lumbar support is very stiff to turn compared to the passenger side. It is also making a creaking noise when it is adjusted and I can feel the seat compress slightly when I put pressure on it (say, when I shift gears or move positions) and it also makes noise when doing so.
Just wondering if this is a common problem, if there is an easy fix, or should the dealer take care of it. My thoughts right now are to take it right back to the dealer and let them deal with it.
1998 F150 4.6L. Pretty sure EGR is bad. Clogged ports cleaned, DPFE changed, etc. Tried the suck test on EGR, no change. Still getting 401 code. Ports were really bad, so I figure EGR is clogged/bad also.
Here's the problem....I can't get the nut loose that holds the tube from the manifold onto the EGR. It is on the back side of the EGR facing the firewall. Not a whole lot of room to work with, but I can get a 1-1/16 wrench on it. I have tried soaking it in PB, heating the EGR body with propane, beating on it with everything I can find, and it still won't budge.
If I unbolt the EGR from the TB, I have no leverage on it.
So the story goes like this, my teacher was trying to scrap a truck that he had sitting on his farm so i got it. I've been using it for a DD for the past year and a half and not I'm starting to do rust repair starting with rocker panels. But, what i was really wondering is how involved would it be to replace the radiator core support? Main reason being last time i was under the hood replacing the pass side valve cover gasket i hit it and knocked a hole right through it so yeah I'm thinking is about time to replace it.
View 1 RepliesMy explorer 98 seat lumbar does not work. When i push the switch i only hear a motor noise and nothing happens. How to fix that?
View 6 RepliesStarter Removal, The top bolt is a bugger.
View 5 RepliesThis car is an Australian 2014 Elantra SE
The existing manuals do not work, they show a knob previous to this one and don't apply.
Hyundai Elantra: Console. Repair procedures - Interior - Body (Interior and Exterior) - Hyundai Elantra MD 2010-2016 Service manual
Shows an earlier one and I can't find any other info.
I have a 2011 elantra a 6 speed manual and im trying to take off the shift knob and can't seem to do it....
View 33 RepliesHow Do You Remove Gear Shift Knob For Replacement ?? On My 07 Azera
View 2 RepliesHow do you remove the shift knob in a 2013 Elantra GLS? I didn't see a pin or anything.
View 3 RepliesI'm trying to swap out the shift boot of my 2004 (B5.5) Passat 1.8T 4Motion and running into trouble. According to the instructions from the new Red Line shift boot, I should be able to separate the two collars that hold the boot to the knob. However, the white post that's part of the knob assembly has a piece that's bigger than the lower black collar, preventing it from being removed. Is there something I'm missing? How can I remove the boot without damaging the existing knob assembly?
View 7 RepliesHow to remove the stick shift knob on a 5 speed 99 passat .
View 3 RepliesWhen I turn off the ignition and try to rotate the ignition switch/key to the steering column lock position it will not go all the way. It stops just before locking the steering column and I cannot remove the key. This is an automatic with a gearshift on the column. I have to reach up with my left hand to pull the gearshift lever up as if to pass the PARK position. While holding the gearshift like that the ignition switch can be rotated to lock and key removed.
I had the dealership attempt to fix this twice while under warranty with no success. After 10 years I am sick of it and would like to fix it. 2002 Ford F150 4x4 5.4L automatic on column.
How does it come off. I wasn't able to turn the axle vent without turning the block on axle for the brake lines.
I would like to remove the brake system from my current axle without breaking any lines open, then putting a new axle in and put the brake system on the truck to the new rear axle.
My 1999 Ford F-150 failed inspection for frayed driver-side seatbelt (a common problem according several parts sellers). I have obtained a used shoulder harness assembly from a salvage yard but I have two questions:
What is size of the Torx bolts? (the star shaped ones) Looks like T55 but I don't have any to compare. I'll need to buy the socket and I assume a generic version will fit my ratchet.
The top part of the harness looks simple enough to remove but do you need a ratchet extension to remove the bottom bolt?
I have an 02 f150 2WD with a "leveling" kit. It was on the truck when I bought it. However, the front sets noticeably higher than the rear. The rear has lifting blocks, while the front has the lifted spindles as well as the coil spring spacers. At least I think they are spacers. I had to replace lower control arm bushings a while back, and there were black plastic rings on top of the springs. Can I remove the spacers? If I can, I plan on doing that and replacing the rear blocks with whatever I need to get the stance back. I like the height of the truck now, just hate the front being higher than the rear. I do pull my boat with it.
View 2 RepliesI need to change the all support mount motor of my Camry 2003 v2.4l. but I don't know where find the best model or manufacturer.
View 2 RepliesI am having a problem with my 1998 F150 4x4. The 4WD is not engaging. It is a manual shift. I have checked the transfer case by turning the drive shaft in 2WD it is free. When I shift into 4WD it is does not spin freely. So I believe that is OK. I have checked the vaccum diaphram. It will move the piston when I attach a hose and pull vacuum on the inboard hose barb. So I believe the diaphram it self is OK. I am not sure if the hoses and selenoids are OK. They look fine. However there is a constant vacuum on the inboard hose line (red/pink color) wether I am in 4WD or not. Is this OK? How can I check the selenoids. If all this is OK, the next thing I believ it could be is the shift fork in the differential. Is that a difficult job? Do you need to pull the whole axle out to replace it?
View 14 RepliesJust bough a '98 F150, 4.6L; drove it home and it ran great, lots of impressive power etc... Parked it my shop and getting it ready for safety check so I can register it. All I did was change the oil, oil filter and air filter.
Couple weeks have gone by, I went to start it and it does start & idles beautiful but it will not rev. I give it gas and it's like it's choking / wants to die. The signal lights are flashing super fast which I don't recall doing before. Battery wasn't holding charge so I installed a new one tonight; no difference. Alternator is good.
I have not checked the plugs yet because I don't think that would be the cause of an overnight change from running excellent to what it is now but I will check them.
I have a 98 f150 4wd with manual shift on floor (msof) and the 4wd will not engage. I've done research and I've learned quite a bit but still have an issue. In All the research I've done I have learned about
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