Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 F350 - Loud Pop And Then Grinding / Brakes Locked Up When Pushed On
Jan 25, 2015
I am having a major issue with my truck. I replaced all of my brakes about 8 months ago. Replaced everything. Rotors, calipers, pads etc. About 3 weeks ago I pushed on the brakes and they locked up and I heard a loud pop and then grinding. I pulled my wheel and my brake on the right rear had broke the 2 mounting bolts and fell off. So I put the brake back on thinking I hadn't tightened the bolts.
Drove about 7 miles and around the 10th time I stepped on my brakes it did the same thing. So I replaced the brakes again. Calipers caliper mount and pads. I have been driving it 2 weeks and all of a sudden same thing happened. I push on the brakes the right rear locked up and snapped the bolts again. So now I replaced everything rotor calipers etc. Greased everything up and no problems for a day. Do I need to replace the brake mount and where do I get that?
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Just over 7000 miles all of a sudden I got this loud grinding noise in the rear end like a brake locked up. Pulled into a parking lot. Don't think it's brakes. Put the truck in reverse it got even louder for a second then it quieted down after that. Naturally this happened on a Saturday.
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Going down a steep loose gravel drive way, going maybe 5 miles per hour. About 50 feet before the stop sign we lightly applied the brakes and the front right wheel completely locked up. If we didn't turn into the grass we would of stopped in the middle of the busy street. We picked up speed when we applied the brakes, like we were on ice. When I got out, I could see the one long brake mark in the driveway. This happened on a paved road about 6 months ago, it had some loose gravel at the stop sign. I couldn't tell which wheel locked up at the time. This happened on snow in December to, twice. Since the ABS light never came on. Brake pads and rotors needed replacing about 9 months ago. Tires have been rotated, no change. Not sure what it could be. I disconnected the Abs fuse for now.
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Am looking into buying a new transfer case (TC), and one web-site indicated there were 2 different automatic transmissions; Manual vs electronic -shift? So some TC's for 2000 AT's would not work? I found one (used) that was from a 2002.
My truck came to a grinding halt yesterday and I believe the TC. I had been hearing noise for a while and had been in the process of eliminating other causes (u-joints, ball joints) and think it was the TC all along.
I did not notice any issues with the AT prior.
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I have another issue. I just started having problems when braking. Every time I brake there is thing loud grinding noise that sounds like it coming from the back tires but there isn't a squeaking noise like there is where you need new brakes what else could this be??
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I have a small leak (seems to only be leaking while driving and shortly after I stop the truck). I dont know what the part its leaking from is called but its right behind the oil pan (looks similar to the pan but a little larger) It has a small 1/8-1/4 inch hole/nozzle in it that looks like its meant to be there.
So my question is..
Is there supposed to be a rubber stopper in there?
Is this common?
Whats the part called?
This seems to be the only place its leaking from.
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I have a 2000 F150, 94k miles, manual transmission, 2WD
About 6 months ago a slight squeaking sound started when only backing up. Now its progressed to a sort of grinding metal on metal sound with regular driving as well as in reverse. I can hear it the most when its in gear and I take my foot off the gas. I changed the breaks, checked the wheel bearings, did a clutch test, and the u joints look fine. Something weird happened yesterday, while raining out, it didn't make a peep. My drive shaft and u joints have a layer of rust on them...could that be a cause of the noise, and it went away when wet?
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Why won't my hatch light turn off unless, I depress the brake pedal? I even disconnected the wire going to the latch and the light still won't go out?
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2000, F-150, 35K +original miles. 4.6L V8
Some weeks ago a noise started that sounded like fan blades striking against heavy plastic fan guard. At first I thought it was coming from the transmission/Transfer case area but after a few weeks of listening to I now believe it's coming from behind the dash area, however, I can't find any reason for it be from there.
The noise usually starts around 45 MPH
I checked the heater fan and it appears to be Okay. I don't know of any other fans in that area.
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Having an issue w/ my 00 550. When I lock in the hubs there is instantly a noise, More of a squealing then a grinding. The truck goes in and out of 4x4 no problem and the noise is there locked in 4x4 and not locked in, as long as the hubs are locked in. I can't tell if the noise is coming from the 4x4 driveshaft but there is no noticeable play in the u-joints or the u-joints in the front axle. I did notice when I spin the 4x4 shaft by hand the passenger side joint spins slower then the driver, not sure if that's normal or could be the problem.
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Warn Premiums, installed them and now the 4x4 is engaging, but still have a grinding issue. When the hubs are locked and the switch is in 2 wheel drive, the frond end is grinding, if I switch it to 4 hi, the grinding goes away.
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Well here it is I just put a new slave cylinder in my 02' F-150 and once we figured out all the little issues we were having we finally got the truck to fire up!!! Now my problem is that when the truck is running I can't get the truck into gear with the clutch pushed and it doesn't even grind. But when the truck is off it goes through the gears no problem what so ever. When we did the slave cylinder while we were in there we just replaced everything clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, rear seal, and pilot bearing. We figured that since all the shops were quoting me 800 and up for just doing the slave that since were in there we might as well do everything since nothing has ever been replaced yet. My question is why will the truck not let me shift into gears when running but no problem when off. Oh and yes the system was bled after doing the slave actually twice so far.
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I've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
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Here's the deal:
* Drive the truck after it's been sitting a while (overnight, or at least a couple of hours), everything's fine. Good brake pedal feel.
* Drive 10-15 miles, stop-and-go at lights and stop signs, the brake pedal slowly goes from normal to firm, to very firm. Then, no play whatsoever and brakes are dragging bad. Yesterday, they were dragging so bad that I had it pulled into 1st gear with pedal on the floor just to get thru an intersection.
* Get out and check each wheel, all 4 brakes are dragging. I can tell from the heat pouring out of each wheel. And I've verified with infrared thermometer. Also, I've raised the vehicle when this is happening, and all 4 wheels will not turn. So it's definitely all 4 brakes.
At first, I assumed it was seized slide pins. But I've THOROUGHLY cleaned each and every one, and lubed with synthetic caliper grease. When the brakes are feeling normal, I've had my wife pump the brakes while I watched the calipers. Near as I can tell, they slide easily. Again, when my problem happens, it's all 4 wheels SIMULTANEOUSLY. So I've pretty much ruled out slide pins.
The brake pedal itself isn't getting bound by anything. It moves freely and I've lubed each of the pivot points. No problems there.
* When the brakes are dragging, I can crack the bleed screws and some fluid will come out at each wheel, which releases the brake at that wheel and I can then turn each wheel freely. So, there's residual pressure in the lines. I replaced the master cylinder (twice actually). No change in behavior.
BTW: I thoroughly bled the lines after each of the two master cylinder changes. I must've put 60+ ounces of fresh/clean/new fluid into the system so this isn't related to old fluid.
* Next, when the brakes are dragging, I can unscrew the master cylinder about 1/8-inch or so from the booster, and the brakes immediately release. Again, indicating residual pressure in the lines. So, I assume that something funky is going on with the brake booster. Also, when the brakes are dragging, I can pull the vacuum hose from the brake booster. And after a few seconds the brakes release. So I installed a new brake booster (re-manufactured one from NAPA -- they didn't offer a brand new one). No change in behavior.
After swapping the brake booster, I can still pull the vacuum tube when the brakes are dragging and it'll release in just a few seconds. So, it really seems like something is going on with the booster, but I can't figure out what it might be.
It is possible for the brake booster vacuum tube to have TOO MUCH vacuum, thereby causing the brakes to be unknowingly applied? Is there maybe a regulating valve of some kind in the line?
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In 2007 purchased above referenced vehicle. First week it began to jerk a little when changing gears or just driving it. Last week it began to jerk violently when putting it into gear; then it finally died as i pushed on the brake. It was towed to AAMCO for diagnostics and they finally said the problem was out of their league, or it would cost 800-1000 for complete car diagnostics. Referred me to master mechanic. But I'm taking it back to the dealer. QUESTION: because there seems to be a history of electrical related issues with the model, and recalls found back in 2004, would this car be classified as a "lemon" or is it possible for the electrical issue to be fixed, or should I "junk" the vehicle?
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My brother is having a issue with his 99 F350 diesel automatic tranny pu. When in manual 1rst gear the engine stumbles and runs like crap. In drive or 2nd gear it runs fine. He's getting a code for a bad cam sensor. A new OEM and aftermarket sensor has been tried with no solution to the engine problem. What might be going on?
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I have a 1995 850. About a year ago, I suddenly had a loud grinding noise coming from my brakes. It only happened in hot weather and when the brakes seemed to be hot. Also, it only happened when I was coming to a final stop, like the last 10-20 feet. I took my car to my "trusted" mechanic. They diagnosed it as being my front pads and rotors, so they replaced them (they also felt the front vibrating.) NOW the brakes seemed okay after I got it back the second time (no loud grinding noise.)
When I got the car back, the weather was starting to cool since it was nearing winter. My winter weather is like 70's during the day, and during this time, there was no grinding. It's now starting to get hot again, and sure enough, that grinding noise is back, but not as bad as the first time a year ago. Again, it is only when the brakes heat up and I come to a final stop (the last 10-20 feet.) If I break lightly, it won't make that noise, and it takes me driving for about 15 minutes for the grinding noise to start (it sounds like metal on metal and loud.) Also, I don't feel the vibration like I did a year ago. I only drive the streets, and have not been on the freeway since I got the new brakes.
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In February 2014 I purchased a 2011 Honda CRV. I often travel and am gone for about a week. Every time I come back the rear brake are rusted. They have a loud thumping and grinding sound. I immediately took the car back to Honda dealership (2 time) both times they 'shaved' the roaters. I then contacted Honda headquarters to report the issue. They told me to deal with the dealership and take it to a local mechanic for other opinions. Car Talk will be my second opinion. Honda dealership told me that this is just the way it is. This is my third Honda, I have NOT had this problem before.
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Driving in snow, braking in this car routinely handles poorly and brakes make a loud grinding sound. It sounds like the front brakes. I just had a brake job from a trusted dealer. I read the thread here on the Honda Accord that reported the same sort of brake problem. The issue is the brakes, NOT tires as that thread suggests. Braking strength is greatly impaired under these conditions. I am very apprehensive about driving in snow, and ready to trade in what is otherwise a fine car.
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I just bought this camry recently, it's an 2008 SE 4-cylinder with about 95k on it. Everything is fine on the car with the exception of one thing. Whenever I start it after a prolonged period of it being off, say in the morning or sometimes even having it off for an hour and then starting it again, when I start it, a loud grinding/scrapping noise comes from the front of the car.
This noise lasts for a good 30-60 seconds and as the car picks up speed it disappears. It just happens whenever I start it. Now I'm not sure that if the brakes or jammed or is it something to do with the transmission. I mention the transmission because during the drive, the car seems under a lot of pressure as if towing a large trailer and has trouble accelerating. At times when going downhill, it actually is slowing down as opposed to picking up speed and as soon as I let off the gas the speed drop from significantly.
I know this isn't normal because I used to an 2005 Camry LE 4-cylinder. So I know how the engine and transmission behave.
I took it the dealer recommended mechanic and he said that everything is fine. He's a nincompoop really. I took it to my mechanic and he said that the axle and bearing need to be changed on the passenger side and just the axle on the drivers side. My mechanic is a family friend and is skilled in his trade so I know he's not trying to shaft me.
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We discovered that our 99 mercury Mountaineer had bad rotors. last night I hooked up a trailer and was going to work with a friend move a couch when I heard a loud grinding sound. I turned around and determined it was coming from the wheel. I purchased a new set of pads and started to change the pads. In the process I found a broken sway bar connector. I changed this as well. It still felt bad and there was a sound when I braked.
I took it to pep boys for a free brake inspection. They pointed out that the rotors needed to be replaced. I did not let them do it because I can not afford that right now. The car is a secondary not a daily driver. My wife says we shouldn't drive it at all. I say we can still drive it and expect I will have to replace the brake pads sooner than normal and replace the rotors when we can, later. My wife insists we will do more damage if we drive it as it is. I say what's the difference we need to replace the rotors anyway.
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