Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - O/D Light On Even Replaced Sensor And Hoses?
May 19, 2014
i just got an F150 supercrew 5.4L 4x4. has approximately 180k miles but motor and tranny run clean and smooth. issue i am having is the OD light flashes but no other service light is on. i had code read and said it was a Differential Feedback Pressure Sensor (DFPS). Replaced the sensor and hoses but still the light is flashing. i have not changed EGR as of yet due to money but was wondering if i could maybe get pointed in the right direction. the Tranny does not seem to be operating improperly except at low speeds it tends to shift between OD and 3rd on occasion.
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I've tried everything I can think of and it still runs sluggish.
1. Had dealer change plugs
2. Changed Cop's
3. Cleaned MAF sensor
The 5.4L has slight miss and doesn't respond well at all when trying to pass or going uphills.
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I have replaced the transmission Range sensor (with OEM) and it is adjusted correctly, however This did not clear the. Code P0705... I am stuck ....
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I tried the test mode (hold trip reset and turn ignition to run) this revealed that the needle for the speedometer does sweep from zero to max and back, could it still be the cluster? Is there something I am missing? FWIW the odometer lights up but does not work and all other gauges seem to be functioning correctly.
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I've replaced my heater core and blend door in my 2000 and getting ready to button things up. Can I hook up the heater hoses after the plenum top is screwed on to keep the core from moving when pushing on hose connections?
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Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
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This is a truck at work, I had my student workers put in a new blinker switch, and when they were done it won't start anymore. The "theft" light is flashing on the dash, so I guess the PATS system thinks it was tampered with. How could you trigger this by changing the blinker switch? Does this have to be reset by a dealer?
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Sunday my truck began to sputter at idol while at a light and continued when parked. My first assumption was another coil pack has gone out. Went to autoparts store to get a new one and run the codes to tell me which cylinder it was. Code P0357 came up referring to cylinder G which seemed odd to me as it usually gives me a number rather than a letter. Bought the coil pack and went home to swap it out. Replaced the coil and with no change in the idol I googled the code. I have now replaced the coil, inspected the plug and wires around the plug and now I am at a loss of what to do next.
There is only a rough idol, no hesitation when driving or accelerating. Along with that, I've notice that if I'm going between 30-50 and take my foot off the gas it doesn't slow down, it's as though the cruise control is on... After a few miles on the highway and come to a stop, the RPMs are around 1k for about 30 seconds then drops to almost stall before catching itself and begins to sputter.
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Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. What should I do next FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
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I've got a 2001 f150 XLT and I've checked the Haynes manual and searched Google but I'm having no luck.
I'm trying to locate the sensor for the Automatic Head Lights.
I had a small "spill" on the dash at night and immediately the lights started to blink and click. It fixed itself but sometimes it will do a weird little "click, click noise" change thing. I would like to clean the sensor or ensure it's not partially blocked.
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New, to me, 2002 F-150 that developed heater core leak. I tore down the dash and replaced the heater core and reassembled everything.
All is good except that now the air bag light on the instrument cluster stays on continuously. There is no blinking...just a solid light that stays on.
I must have missed a connection, though I'm at a loss because I thought I got everything. Is there an obvious (though not obvious to me) connector that I should be looking for?
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I have a p0401 generic exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficant detected code on my truck I was wondering what would be the first thing to check to get ride of this code? my truck hesitates from a stop while excelerating to several thousand rpm. should I try replacing the dpfe sensor? what does dpfe stand for? do they sell this sensor at oreilys or do you half to get this a the dealership?
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I have a 76 f250/460 engine. I have replaced the hoses, belts, water pump, fan clutch, flowed the radiator and it still overheats.
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Drove 97 LHS home from work back at the end of June on a 100 plus day, it seemed fine, no indication of any problem. Got in it the next morning to go to work and it would not start. Cranks fine, hear fuel pump. So a few days pass before my husband can look at it. He did get codes. He replaced the ignition coil, put on a new fuel filter, and replaced a couple of modules. It would still not start. We towed it to a service station that we have used for years.
They replaced the camshaft sensor (and fixed the AC). I drove it for 8 days, no problems. Then on the morning of the 9th day, it would not start!! Exact same symptoms. So towed it again back to the service station. Then they said it was the PCM (control module). Husband went to junk yard to get one (much cheaper). Service shop put it in and then said that was not the problem and replaced the crankshaft sensor instead. Say it was ready to pick up. I went and paid again! Got key and came back later with husband to pick it up. IT would not start!!!
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Monday get CEL with codes p0722 and p0322. Car is in limp mode during these codes. Yesterday I change g68 sensor. Cleared codes, rough start but was sitting most of the week. Drove around fine, no limp mode, shifted fine. Started up a few times immediately after. Hours go by I go to leave and it won't turn over though it sounds its wants to. No clue why this is happening or what changing the sensor could have done. This is a 01 GLS 2.0 auto. Not sure where to from here especially since it drove so well afterwards.
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We bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
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my old lady has a 2001 olds intrigue with the 3.5L in it. Sunday evening we replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the Coolant Temp Sensor. Monday she was on her way back to Iowa and the tempature gauge spiked up to the Hot area. I looked it over and could not find anything wrong. I sent her on her way and she made it about a mile before it did it again. The car will spike up to the hot area but the motor shows no signs of over heating. I checked the temps with a heat gun while the car is idling and read out Thermostat housing-160, Rad-80, Rad hose-130, and coolant 170. I than ran the car up so it shows on the gauge its hot and than checked again, it than reads Thermostat housing-172, Rad-100, Rad hose-134, and coolant 184. If I am running it at 1500 rpms it will spike up but once i take it up to 2500 rpms it drops back down to normal on the gauge. I am lost for what it could be.
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2001 f150 4x4. Newer brakes pads and rotors.. Maybe 6k miles ago. ABS lite just popped on and went out ... What could have caused it? Wheel bearing?
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew. On the passenger door, the courtesy light no longer comes on. It's the light on the door (not the doom light). If I open any of the other 3 doors, all of the lights come on including on the passenger side so I know the bulb is good.
I looked for a door switch, but did not see any along the door or frame of the door. How do I go about fixing this?
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2001 F150; 4WD; 5.4L; 198,000 miles
The abs warning light comes on. In to the shop which determines it is the RF abs sensor. They say the "abs electronics are integral with the entire hub so the entire hub needs to be replaced".
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I had a knock sensor code and replaced it. Then I had a code for the TPS and I replaced it with the new part today and after replacement the vehicle idles at 2000 RPM. what should I change?
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