My truck runs rough/bad when it rains or is damp out. It stutters and had no acceleration. I just had a new fuel pump put in January. It improves after a while on the road. If it's wet, my travel sucks.
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 F150 Lariat 4x4 with a 5.4, 150,000 mile on it. About 2 weeks ago I blew spark plug out on #2, and a friend who said he has heli-coiled a bunch of these tried to do mine and ruined the head. Anyway, I called a local engine shop and got another PI head, only I used my cam in it. Torqued it as per the book, etc... Mind you that the engine ran perfect before all this.
Got it back together with all new plugs, new exhaust manifold, and 2 new COP's. When I start it-it runs rough for about a min, then straightens back out to run perfect again, and after a few seconds you can hear a solenoid click, then it goes back to missing again. This goes on and on... I went through all the vacuum lines and checked them, checked the egr valve, put on a new IAC, new PVC, cleaned the MAF, and checked everything else with a DVM.
I took it out and drove it.... Runs good for a minute, then it goes back to missing, then back to smooth again. This just keeps going on and on. I noticed when I hear that click, it sounds like a mad rush of air being sucked in, but I cannot locate it. I ordered a new set of COP's to try next. I can understand if it just plain missed all the time, but this it intermittent. Also, the only code I can get is a too lean on bank 1, so I replaced the 90's and the pvc valve. Now no codes but still in and out of missing. It ran perfect before the new head.
I have my 2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke. 175,000 original miles by me and only me. SCT, MBRP, Howes or Stanandyne almost always. Runs like new. It starts rough if I don't plug it in. Even on 50 degree days. Then it levels off and runs perfectly. If I plug the truck in I can drive off immediately with perfect operation of motor. I just went 1500 miles. Pulling a car hauler with car. NP at all.
New Glow Plugs, GPR "Yes it works", IPR, New Harness, Buzz Test shows it's fine, New #8 injector last year, New O rings HPOP. My buddy who is a PStroke guy said this trucks runs too perfect for it to be injectors. He recommends seals for the injectors. What does this mean. Or what else can it be. Where should I start.
I have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto. The motor is a new rebuilt with about 4000 mile, coils were replaced with motor, injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died. I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start, but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.
So I had it towed to a garage. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably.. But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad?
Here's what I'm dealing with. Took the truck on a 1500 mile trip with no issues. Got home and started it the next morning and it started right up. 1/2 mile from home it starts to run rough and wants to die. It does this for a few minutes and then perks back up and runs fine for however long the trip is. It will always re fire and have no issues. Every morning it's the same game as described above. Within 1/2 from home it's doing this. Seems to be fuel delivery related, but why would it start after sitting overnight, and then after its little fit, run without an issue?
No codes in computer.
My F150 with 175,000 miles on gave me a the ol' P0305 code indicating misfiring in cylinder #5. I changed the plugs and wires using Motorcraft wires and Motorcraft AGS34FM plugs.
Now the truck idles fine, does not give a OBD code but runs rough at 2,000-2,500 rpm. Tried it out on the highway and it started "bucking" a bit. Not sure what to try next.
I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
View 14 RepliesI am having trouble with my 1998 F-150...XLT Triton? I bought the wrong motor for it and installed it, turn out it's a 1999 Windsor 5.4
Problem is that it runs rough and stalls when I stop or rolling to a stop it would die.... It seems ok while cold, but when driven for 20 minutes or more it does it.
I have used original 4.6 harness as well as original spark plug coils and only replaced throttle body, oil filter holder thingy mount, exhaust manifolds are from 4.6.
When the throtle body was on the 4.6 I didn't have when the motor ran. Only misfire due to intake manifold leaking into the 3rd cylinder spark plug.(I thought it was a bad head gasket and changed in....installed the timing chain wrong and messed up the whole motor)
Also I broke a rear brake line and now it only has front brakes and smells like fried transmission oil.. This is my first truck and first truck accidental engine swap. Also the 5.4 Intake manifold is missing 2 coolant sensors and it's giving me the P0118 ECT Sensor Circuit High input...
I recently picked up a 2wd 2002 F-150 with a 4.2l V6 that has just over 300k miles. The CEL is on and I'm getting P1131, P1151, P0316, P0305 and an occasional P0301. It has a very distinct misfire from around 1,000 rpm and smooths out between 1,500 & 2,000 rpm, the idle rpm occasionally bounces (sometimes enough to stall), and the idle is sometimes rough.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuelfilter, and replaced a leaking PCV hose. As I have changed things the symptoms have improved some but they are still there. While capturing some livedata it kept going out of CL and into OL Fault. When it would the idle quality was crap and the miss was much more significant. I would have to put it into D hold the brake and run the RPM's up to just over 1k to get it back into CL.
After I got done with the data stream at idle, I set the parking brake held the foot brake and put the truck in D then ran the rpm's up to around 1,200 & held it there. The truck stayed in CL but it would cycle between misfiring for 5 - 10 seconds then clear up and run smooth for 20 ' 30 seconds, every time it cycled there was an audible click that could be heard. Also, the AC was off the whole time.
Live DataStream @ Idle: CL
CalculatedLoad Value - 12.9- 14.1%
EngineCoolant Temp - 103degrees C
Short TermFuel Trim B1 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B1 - 0.0%
Short TermFuel Trim B2 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B2 - 0.0%
Engine RPM - 816 . 846
[Code] .....
My 2002 f150 xl didn't come with factory cruise..I have installed all the essentials steering wheel, clock spring, cruise module, redundant brake sensor. My e.c.u. would not support cruise so I found a 1999 with all the same parameters as mine, I changed the dash cluster, e.c.u. , both pats modules, key cylinder ect....the truck started but ran horrible. My trucks has a 4.6 in it so did the donor truck. It's a 2x4 automatic with about 250k mi
View 1 RepliesSo I recently acquired a 2002 F-150 4x4 super crew with the 5.4 V-8. It idles rough (surging from 400 - 700 rpm) when cold, and sometimes dies, but more often then not it stays running. It runs and drives fine when the accelerator is pressed and when going down the road. When it gets up to operating temperature, and has been there for a while, it seems to idle fine 95% of the time. The codes I have are P0136 (bad circuit to O2 sensor), P1151 (HO2S detects lean mixture or something like that), and the infamous P0171 and P0174, which is lean exhaust/mixture on both banks. Now I have read extensively on the internet about these symptoms and have done the following:
Sprayed every vacuum hose with carb cleaner, and even around the intake manifold and injectors.
Considered the IAC (its new, the guy I bought it from replaced it a couple months ago) Torque app for android phone says vacuum is good. Cleaned the MAF and air temp. sensor with electrical cleaner Checked all of the vacuum hoses on the engine by pulling them off
Put grease around the fitting where the PVC valve attaches to the valve cover. Seemed to make it idle a lot better after messing with it, but I don't know if it was a result of the engine being fully warmed up, or my messing with the PVC.
What to try next? I'm close to just dissecting the top part of this engine and seeing what the intake manifold gasket looks like..or could it really be an 02 sensor?
2002 F150 5.4 v8,,, I had troubles just over a month ago with a po305 code. i got the truck fixed with 2 new coils n some gaskets. I am having these po353 & po171 codes pop up now. The truck is running rough and I am curious to if its just another coil problem or if their is something I am overlooking or just don't know about?
View 1 RepliesThese are the code that keep spitting out. I have a 2002 f150 5.4L supercrewand it is running rough. I had this problem about 3 months back but i didnot get any codes from the computer i washed my truck a 1/2 day earlier, 2days later it went away. this time it has spit out 4 codes a po306/po307/po300/po316. the po307 and the po300 are gone, but the other two remain and it is still running rough 2days later. i had just washed my truck 30min. before, it started happening, is there water somewhere? My dad (long time mechanic) says use wire dry on the cops and it will go away. I have read other post on misfiring and I am still not sure what to do?
View 10 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and I was going to change the spark plugs for her. She said it started running rough and it threw a code and check engine light. She took it for a scan and they told her the number 5 plug was mis-firing. I'm fairly handy and bought a set of the recommended Motorcraft plugs from Rock Auto, AGSF32PM. It also matched the number in the owners manual so I thought I was pretty safe.
Funny thing, when I took the old ones out, they were AGSF22WM's instead. My thinking is they are a colder plug than the supposedly original equipment, but I don't think they've been changed before. They looked well used but the color was good. The truck has about 135K on it.
Long story short, and to get to the question(s), Would there be any reason the factory would have put a different plug in the engine than what is listed? Am I asking for trouble going with a hotter plug than what's been in there (pinging or timing retardation/loss of power)? Am I just overthinking the whole thing and need to put it back together and drive it?
I have a 2002 4.6L FX4. When I run the A/C for an extended period (say 15-20+ minutes), it will start to cough and sputter and eventually just die. It will restart but run rough and cough, sputter, die.
If I turn off A/C and let it set a while, it runs fine. No check engine light. Possible EGR problem????
My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
View 5 Replies2002 f150 4.6l v8... Truck is misfiring and the exhaust is smelling very rich, I have new coils and plugs, it also idles rough and stalls if i let it idle for more than a couple minutes. Could it be something with fuel delivery system?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
View 3 Replies2002 f-350 diesel 4x4 7.3l. It stalls out a few times lately( and starts right back up) and it runs rough like there is an air bubble then smooths out. Changed 1 fuel filter and the pcv valve. 96,000 miles.
View 6 RepliesFor the last couple years the engine light would come on solid every once in a while - read codes for the thermostat - my father-in-law checked it out (mechanic) and said it was fine and that the Jetta was being too liberal with it's engine light.
Engine light recently has started to come on more often. Started using premium gas - CEL went away for a few months. But now it keeps coming on, and once in a while flashes and the car runs rough. But it's intermittent - it'll go and come. Codes are:
16804 - catalyst system bank 1: efficiency below threshold
16684 - error in mapped cooling system
16685 - cylinder #1 misfire detected
Seems to me that the cylinder misfire would be the main issue here. I've changed the spark plugs pretty recently. Catalytic converter not too long ago also. I haven't changed the coil pack since I first got it like 6-7 years ago. With all the issues these years of VW's have had with coil packs, I'm fairly certain I need a new coil pack. O2 sensor?
I have a 02 Dodge Dakota 4.7 liter that is killing me. No codes and no check engine light. From a cold start it starts fine but then runs rough. If I let it run for a few minutes, turn it off and try to restart it, it is very hard to start. Also, if I have it running and rev the engine above 3k rpm and let go of the gas it dies. It will idle without holding the gas pedal down but will die after a rev. Fuel pressure and volume are right in spec. Have good compression, spark and injector pulse on all cylinders. I thought maybe a crank or cam position sensor, but either of those would usually throw some type of code. I thought IAC but it seems to be functioning properly.
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