Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Barely Runs / Stumbling And Shaking / Got P0340 Code?
Feb 19, 2017
The vehicle has 160,000 miles and had been running great. I pulled into traffic, put the petal to the floor, and it started stumbling and shaking. I pulled into the parking lot where I was going and expected it to die but it maintained idle but shaking real good. When I started it back up the SES light came on. I was able to coax it home but there was no acceleration, wouldn't go over 40 mph, and was still shaking bad.
I used my code reader and got the code P0340, camshaft position sensor. I replaced the sensor but it is still doing the same thing and still showing the code. It will start if I push the gas while cranking but it won't rev over 2K. I am thinking it jumped timing but most of the threads I read say they have never seen this on these engines. I want to get some opinions before I start removing the timing chain cover.
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The p0340 code is the cam position right? Ready says bank 1.. Is there 2? Where the bank one is? And do I need to get on tdc on cyl one first or not?
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I have a 2002 f150 4.2 code p0340, ran rough, replaced cam sensor. drove after replacing and it runs fine now, code and service engine light comes on after restarting. from what i have read could this be a wiring problem?
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My girlfriend has a 97 Ford ranger that can't make it out of the driveway when it warms up to operating temp. This is what was replaced thus far. Cat, timing belt, plugs and wires, air and fuel filters. It has about 37 psi at the rail, the codes shown were second 02 sensor, and fuel to lean on bank one? I looked thru a few postings but I'm actually at work and can't really spend too much time looking thru much more. The timing was checked about three different times just thinking that was the problem after the new belt was installed. It does idle perfect at all temperatures it just won't go when it warms up. Unplugged the TPS, no change, was thinking electronic ignition module but not sure if it has one or where it is if it does.
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I am getting the code for the camshaft position sensor. Erase code, comes back immediately. I don't even think this car has a camshaft position sensor.. I guess the first step would be locating the little bugger. Crankshaft position sensor is new and seems to work fine. Car is running btw.
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The issue: Check engine light on. Codes pulled, and he's getting O2 sensor codes (aftermarket exhaust has caused that since he bought the car) and 17705 Pressure Drop Between Turbo and Throttle Valve. The car barely accelerates, and you can hear the turbo spooling, and the engine has small surges. I had VCDS going and went for a drive and noticed his N75 Valve duty cycle was stuck at 5.1% no matter what throttle position he was in. So we're going to the wreckers this afternoon and will pull an N75 valve? The DV is stock and appears to be in good condition, but if changing the N75 doesn't work then that's the next spot I'll look.
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Driving the last week, gone about 10 - 15miles when all the sudden I noticed a stumbling in motor while going up hills. Got where I was going, shut her off and came back a few minutes later, loaded the kids and popped the hood. Nothing obvious but a vac hose from the vac reservoir(?) to TB was a little rough looking. Jumped in, hard to start - low on fuel or ignition and idled at 300 - 400 till throttle got it going. Has started and idled fine ever since. Raced home with the whole 15 miles stumbling up hills - repeated that every drive since after a few miles of driving. Warming the motor up prior to driving doesn't seem to speed up the problem - it takes a few miles to start. Assumed fuel pump at this point.
Got to work on it. Replaced the suspect vacuum hose. Nope. Checked fuel psi - 31 and 40 w/o vacuum. Doesn't hold pressure - reading conflicting things on whether the system should hold psi with key cycle. It doesn't - bleeds to 0 in minute. Replaced fuel filter, regulator and pump. Checked the relay and pump after install - good click and good hum. Felt like problem was gone but I didn't drive more than a few miles each time I checked due to pulling the bed for the tank work. Plus we dropped 30 - 40 degrees while working it.
Never a CEL but decided to checked codes.
Continuous pulled up Neutral Safety Switch that I replaced last year
KOEO - P0232 which I assumed was from pulling the inertia switch multiple times to do the fuel system work
One time I did get P1207(?) Cylinder Head Temp Sensor out of range. Got it once and never again. Curious..
KOER - has never found a problem
The cold seems to have lessened the problem making me think electronics. My BIL is saying #4 or #5 coil or plug. I am starting to feel like I am chasing a gremlin.
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Recently bought 98 f150 xlt 3 door 5speed 4x4 4.6l 230k miles for $1k was throwing misfire codes on 1,8,4,3 cylinders. Usually throws two cylinders at a time and never the same cylinders consecutively
Parts replaced:
coils...msd blaster
belden wire
motorcraft plugs...when i did these it ran perfect for a tank of fuel...18mpg no stumble
two cans seafoam through the tank
tank was dropped and drained
fuel filter
one can seafoam intake cleaner
3" exhaust from the Y pipe back
MAF cleaned
Previous owner said to have tested and cleaned injectors but I am not positive it was done... I don't think its mechanical because it wanders through the cylinders and when i changed the plugs it ran spot on. it gets worse the warmer the truck gets also.
injectors?
clogged small cats?
sensor?
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I'm running a 2000 f250 7.3. The truck has been stumbling for the last two years intermittently. I did the 50 cent mod last fall to the uvch's. Changed CPS, idm, air flow sensor. This last week it finally threw the p1316 code so I have something to go off of. Trucks falling on its face so I parked it. Tore it down last night. Ohm tested all the injectors last night cold and all read around 3ohms. Tested the uvch's and continuity looks good on both sides. Tested them through the valve cover seal, tested fine. Tested them through the first harness and fine. All I have left to check is all the way to the idm. Still no luck finding the problem.
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I just bought a 1998 F150 2wd with the 4.6L(no ABS) to be my beater home depot truck. The brakes barely functioned, so I replaced the front bearings, rotors, pads, and calipers. I bled the brakes exactly like I normally do. When I tried to move the truck, the rear tires spun with the front completely locked(also discovered the right rear line had a hole and crimped the line for a moment, but it was the tire that was spinning).
I searched and many people said that bad rubber lines cause the calipers to lockup. I loosened the bleed valves and the fronts were still locked(jacked up the truck and used a breaker bar on lug nuts trying to rotate each tire). I am guessing that it has to be master cylinder or the steel lines. Any tests I could do to narrow down this issue further?
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I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
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I have a 2001 Escape I bought new so many years ago. It only has 90k miles. The other day I drove it to work running fine. It rained REALLY hard that day and when I came out to go home it would barely start, missing really bad. Limped it home and into my garage where I examined it for water under the hood. Nothing. Started pulling things apart, nothing on the engine, around the coils, in the spark plug conduits, etc., dry as a bone. Let it sit for a couple of days and no change. Replaced the coils just for grins. Drained the fuel from the injector assy, looking for water. Nada. Verified spark, fuel, compression. Still, very difficult to start and when it does it's only running on cyls 1,2 & 3 because I can disconnect the coils on 4,5,6 and it makes no difference.
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So, after sitting for about 4 weeks, I go to start my 2011 F350, 16,000 miles, with a 6.7. Barely runs, "misses", fuel pouring from the underside of the motor, all over the ground. I figure out pretty quickly, #8 fuel injector was blown out of its hole. Clamp is busted.
Two days later (this morning), dealer calls and says we have all the parts we need to fix your truck, except the clamp. Guy says no ETA on the clamp from Ford. Truck will just sit, for an indefinite period of time. Asked him what they were going to do. He said, wait for the part to show up.
Putting aside the oddity of the clamp breaking, how is it that Ford doesn't have the part and doesn't know when it will? Is this a Ford problem or a lazy dealer? This really won't do. Its racing season and I need my truck!
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I am new to the ford deisel. I have a 2005 F250 6.0 liter power stroke. it has been bullet proofed with EGR delete. Has an after market intake. An Edge TC tuner, and alot of extras. My question is why am I having shaking in the front end when my foot is barely on the gas. If i give it more gas it goes away as soon as the boost kicks up to around 2 or 3. It does this every time I take my foot on and off the pedal. It will only last for a second if i give it alot of gas. But if I barely touch the pedal it will shake the whole time until the boost kicks in.
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I recently acquired my dad's old truck. Its a 2002 Explorer EB 4.6L 4x4. Great truck, family owned since new. Recently it has had the service engine soon like pop up and its throwing code P0340. The mysterious cam sensor code.
May I ad that the sensor itself is new, OEM ford. I have just replaced the alternator (which is usually a common problem for this code), and still no luck. The car starts up, still runs great, and has had no hesitation or stalling.
My mechanic friend checked it out and said that it is getting some voltage, but not as much as it should? the wiring to the PCM looked good too. The Ohms on the CMP checked out good too.
I really hope its not the PCM on this car. I may have to just take it into the ford dealer to see if they can diagnose the car. I do work as a tech at a small indy shop, but currently dont have the time since i'm trying to finish my schooling this year.
I just want my car to be in tip-top shape...
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I am having an engine issue with my 1995 Ranger with a 2.3L. I have been having a P0340 code that kept appearing after several attempts at resetting the PCM. I gave up and took it to a Ford dealer for diagnostics and they called the CPS bad. They changed it, but the CEL light immediately came on with the code still kept coming up. The service rep. showed me the old sensor, it had a spot on the head of it where it looked like something was rubbing it. I'm assuming it's slightly rubbing on the gear it points to, which is the oil pump gear, correct? The truck runs fine, no performance issues whatsoever. Is it possible my oil pump shaft has developed play in it's shaft, causing this?
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Can't find a thing wrong with it, no codes. Runs great down the street but backing out of the garage from cold start, it barely runs.
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I have the error code P0340 and have changed both camshaft positioner sensors, cleaned the air sensor and throttle body and still the engine stalls. I can accelerate at 40, 50, 60mph and it jerks violently. I tried the "locking it in third" trick but it still jerks. Today I unplugged the left cam sensor and the truck idles @ 400rpms, does not stall, and pretty much drives great! Hook it back up and crank it, within 10-15 seconds it stalls. I plan to check the wiring....
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I have recently acquired a 1997 F250 LD (same body as the 150)the exhaust system is screwed(currently rebuilding it due to some IDIOT trying to cut out the cats with a grinder and cutoff wheel) and it won't idle (runs alright with a little finessing of the throttle) but after I get the exhaust rebuilt to where the O2 sensors get the proper flow I was going to clean the IAC valve but was wondering if the exhaust not feeding right would cause idle issues a well. Put things in a nutshell...the truck will run but will not idle. IAC Probs, Exhaust Probs, or combination of both??
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My truck runs rough/bad when it rains or is damp out. It stutters and had no acceleration. I just had a new fuel pump put in January. It improves after a while on the road. If it's wet, my travel sucks.
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Just got new tires Friday. Now I have a very noticeable shaking right at 35-40mph. Doesn't do this at any other speeds and test d up to 80mph. Took back to where I got the tires and told them and they rebalanced them and yet it still does it. Could it be a bad tire? What am I missing?
02 F-150 xlt 5.4 4x4 170k miles. Stock rim and tire size.
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