When I turn over bumps not on corners I hear nothing lol ..I just changed the tie rods for other reasons and nothing is loose in the front end now..But this sound is from the box of the truck like something is in the box bumping around when turning corners over bumps..Its frustrating and I cant find out what it is..Only happens when turning over bumps ?
View 6 Replies2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
Was having some clunking sounds coming from the rear end on the old F150. Bro in law said it was lack of gear lube and the rear diff grinding from the start. Wasn't the issue. U - joints are shot and causing the issue. My question is I marked the drive shashshaft and flange with a sharpie but it rubbed off on the flange from free spinning the rear end seeing if the issue was there. From the drive shashshaft to the rear diff flange does the flange need to be marked or no? I did scribe with a nail the transfer case and marked the drive shaft with sharpie. So is the flange being marked important or just the bracket with the u-joint? Would've used soap stone but don't have any on hand.
View 5 Repliesfor the past few weeks when turning corners the outer rear tyre is skipping as if the diff is locked. was thinking of taking it into the mechanincs and maybe replacing it, but now the problem has gone no skipping when turning. could this be an electrical problem mayb a sensor?
View 8 RepliesProblem on early 2001 Sport Trac 4X4. I don't have the whining but a clunk when I go over bumps. I jacked up the left side and I can pull the rear wheel in and out maybe a 1/32 and I hear the clunk so I'm sure the loose rear end is the problem. How do I go about fixing it? New/used rear end? Mine is a 2001 (drum rear brakes)...
View 3 RepliesI've lost traction going around corners. My daily route takes me down a dirt/gravel road that has a couple of tight curves. It seems that last week my 6 month old, just rotated BFG All Terrain's could run these curves with no problem. Now I'm drifting like the Duke boys running from the law. Even making a right turn on dry pavement gets some squak from the tires.
Truck is a 2002 F150 fx4 with 3.50 LS rear diff with about 185000 miles.
So I have two theories. First is the shocks. Standard Rancho that came with the truck. I don't think they've ever been replaced. My bigger concern is the rear diff. I've had a shudder when I take off at corners that indicates it needs a fluid change or friction mod. added. I did the latter a couple of weeks ago. Didn't really work.
I'm wondering, can the clutch pack in the rear diff go out or go bad? If so, what happens? Does it default to an open diff or spool the axles? Or will it just grenade the whole rear end? The loss of traction is my symptom right now. Possibly some wheel hop on braking today, but I couldn't tell if that was just the road.
Got a 97 Sedan with 207k+ on it. Just did all struts (monroe quick-strut), brake pads, shoes, drums, rotors, calipers, rear and front sway bar endlinks, and lower ball joints. All hardware is tight and secured.
I am getting a clunk when I go over some bumps, but not all of them. I also find that it will clunk when I try to accelerate while turning out onto, say, a main road or something where I need to pick up speed. At times it sounds like it's coming from the passenger and others it sound like the middle or driver side.
Control arm bushings don't look too bad and would probably cause more noise when accelerating and braking. Both wheels are snug and don't move when tugging on them in the air. There is no play in the steering as well.
I have a 2001 ford truck and it makes a growling sound when i am turning right but is not when going straight ahead wondering what part in the rear end could be making this sound.
View 2 RepliesThere is a clunking noise coming from the rear of the car. Not a metal on metal sound. Sounds like its more on the passengers side. I replaced the swaybar linkage ends since they were a little loose and thought it was that. Nope...I have H&R coilovers, they are about 5 years old. Can't imagine they be shot this soon. Had someone drive my car while i was behind the R and the rear wheels aren't dancing at all, a common sign of a blown shock. Push down on the car, shocks still respond like they did from day one. I've put the car up on a lift, both sitting and wheels dangling. With the wheels dangling, I grabbed onto the shocks to see if there was any play in the upper shock mounts, solid. Looked under the whole car for loose plastic covers. Can not see anything loose. I made sure everything inside the hatch, including the battery is sitting snug.
The clunk happens over bumps, with or without the brakes on and is loud enough that if the radio is on, it can still be heard.
I've got a 2003 F150 4x4 supercrew that's got a 9.75" rear end with 3.73 gears. I just replaced clutch packs and spider gear set 2 weeks ago. The last day or two I have noticed that when I make sharp turns that it get a whining like spinning noise. It sounds to me like the spider gears are spinning. It only does it when making sharp turns. There is no noise going down the highway or normal driver. I have noticed at times I get a little shutter when I go to take off or back up. Kinda feels like a brake is hanging. I put friction modifier in when I did the clutch packs and everything. Maybe not enough?
View 5 RepliesI am experiencing a bad clunking noise when going over bumps. Its comming from the passenger rear and I am assuming the springs collapsed. How can i tell for sure? The car is sitting a little lower on the corner. Is it bad to drive the car with the spring in this condition?
View 8 RepliesI cannot figure out where the noise is coming from. I cannot duplicate the noise just by shaking the truck even with two guys on each side. It's not a squeak, but more of a clunk or a pop. I can feel it in the floor with my left foot if I press it against the fire wall where it meets the floorboard.
View 14 RepliesI went to check out a '03 7.3 SD the other day. It didn't seem to have a lot of surge when I accelerated to freeway speeds. Kind of lazy feeling. Didn't smoke out the back though. It did have a front end clunking sound going over the parking lot speed bumps. I opened the oil fill cap while it was idling and it blew a plume of vapor/oil about 9' high like a steam engine puffing. Held my hand over it and got a oil wet palm after just a few seconds. I'm hesitant to drop any $$ on it.
View 6 RepliesWhat this clunk could be?? in my truck in signature, 2003 F350 CCLB 4x4, 4" lift. its only low speed, on very light bumps. really does it when the truck flexes, like turning into an elevated driveway or something. driving me absolutely insane the last few months. it sounds like its coming from right under my feet
-removed front shocks and drove
-removed front sway bar and drove
-front wheel bearings are new and tight
-front leaf spring, rear upper shackle bushings are new (thought that was problem..no)
-front leaf springs and bushings are new, although i suppose its possible to have a bad bushing already
-removed traction bars and drove
-removed front track bar and drove, but going to try this again.
-all cab mounts look ok
-took out cab mount under drivers foot, and cut down the metal piece a little...read about it on another thread on here. no change
-made sure my gooseneck ball couldn't rattle
-steering box is new...thought that was it
-steering shaft is solid
-transmission mount bushing and crossmember feel tight
-lubed front driveshaft slip joint and it doesn't have any u joint play
-rear shocks seem ok but haven't removed them yet
-fuel tank is solid
-rear driveshaft has new carrier bearing and u joints, all is tight
-exhaust is not hitting anything
-u bolts all tight, spring bolts are tight
As you can see, I've been through damn near everything. my only thoughts right now is a possible bad cab bushing, or bad leaf spring bushing...as it sounds like its right under my feet. and when you flex the truck, it makes all sort of popping and clunking noises. i had the truck on my buddies lift and we went under it for an hour yesterday looking around with no luck. only thing i found was a bad traction bar bushing but we removed them and it still does it..
Most noticeable at the end of the video...it sounds exactly like a bad sway bar bushing but that's not it...
Front end clunk - YouTube ....
We have a 1995 Chrysler Concorde. It drives fine, but recently I have been hearing a clunking noise (two or three clunks) somewhere in the rear of the car AFTER I turn the car off. It does not clunk while driving or braking or slowing down: only right after the ignition is turned off.
View 5 RepliesHave an 03 f250 6.0L and the tie rod from pitman arm moves easily and there isn't a steering stabilizer, noise got worse after I put new tires on front but it's a loud clunk that I can feel. I've replaced the sway bar bushings and end links. Would the worn tired rod make that noise or would it be ball joints?
View 1 RepliesI have started to notice a crunching sound seams to be coming up thru the front wheels only when turning tight corners this seams to be related to outside wear to both front tyres.....
View 7 RepliesJust picked up a used 2009 RX350 and noticed the low beam light output is terrible. Very difficult to see, especially when turning corners. Also have a bit of fogging of the headlight assembly covers which I assume can be cleaned up. What is the easiest way to increase light output?
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 F150 4x4 it recently started shaking badly on the front end at about 40mph but levels out at about 45 to 50 mph or if slowed back down to 35mph. I can't find anything worn or loose except the sway bar bushings are completely gone on both driver and passenger sides. I have read about the "death wobble" but can't find anything else worn out! I can do most all repairs and checks myself.
View 2 RepliesSo I know there has been lots of posts on surging issues and how to troubleshoot. My truck is a 97 f150 4x4 xlt 4.6l v8. I have noticing surging and dropping in my RPMs lately. No CEL. I have kept a journal when I notice when it happens. I only have issues when I am driving around 40-50 mph and if I go over bumps/pot holes/rough spots in roads or when I'm braking over bumps/pot holes/rough spots, my truck surges/RPMs drop CEL flashes on and off only during these instances. Makes me think something could be loose or something causing this. It has stalled at times when having to brake fast (yellow light, etc.). Where to look first? 1997 F150 4x4 4.6 V8...
View 1 RepliesI just recently picked up a 2001 F-150 4x4 super crew. The steering column is wobbling a little when I hit bumps. I accessed the column and there are two white plastic "bushings" that hold the casted portion of the column tight against the studs with the star ends. This is above where the reinforcement bracket is bolted on. One of them is worn and won't tighten down to hold the column tight. What these are called so I can't find them to order them, I used a large washer for the time being but would really like to replace with new ones.
View 1 Replies