Rusted dipstick tube I thought was going to be an easy enough fix. Broke off clean at the block. Tried for hours, easy out, prying, vise grips anything I could think of. Well I tried to pry the side of the tube over to make room for my needle nose vise grips, and boom. Down in the oil pan it goes.
Do you think theres any way possible I can fish it out through the drain plug. I really dont want to pull the darn motor.
I got a 97 F250 4x4 w/ 4.6 lt. motor & auto trans. The engine is leaking oil. It looks to be coming from a set of hoses that are on the adaptor that is between the oil filter & the engine block. Also what are the oil lines called? It is leaking motor oil not transmission oil.
Also just pulled my oil dip stick & the whole thing (dip stick & the tube) came off the truck. Seems the tube has rotted away at the oil pan. Is this also a job I can do?
I have a minor leak at the base of the trans dipstick tube. I assume that the tube is press in ? has an o-ring ? I put some silicone around the area and that worked about a week, the fluid is probably eating through that type sealant. The trans is a 4r70. Seems to me that the actual tube should be ok and having never dealt with replacing one I want a little advice before yanking it out.
View 11 RepliesFord F-150, 1999, 4WD. My dipstick tube has rusted off right at the point where it attaches to the engine block. I purchased a new one but I'm not sure if that's a job I can do on my own. What installing a new tube will entail?
View 5 RepliesThe dipstick tube flange is now leaking ....
View 3 RepliesI had a leak at the flange several months ago. I fixed it with the diesel o rings kit. I made a trip from TX to AL with no leaking and drive it daily without leaks. But, 2 weeks ago noticed a small dribble of a leak from the same spot again - not enough to leave a mark on the pavement but any leaking drives me nuts. I applied some RTV. It worked for the 2 weeks.
Today, noticing another dribble of a leak coming through the RTV down the pan. I'm thinking the flange is bent and not keeping that o-ring sealed against the pan. I'm going to try to apply some additional RTV at the leak spot. If this doesn't work? Is that Strictly Diesel adapter really worth that kind of dough? Is pushing the OEM adapter into the pan really acceptable? Any other options?
I have a 2001 7.3 and have found the engine oil dipstick coming out of the dipstick tube by 6 - 8 inches on three different occasions. Did not think much of it until my other 2000 7.3 did the same thing.
What causes this as afraid it will come all the way out and get into the serpentine belt.
I've got smoke coming out of my oil dipstick tube. 1996 Mercury Mystique 2.0L automatic, 62000 miles. I noticed a burning oil smell after a short (10 mile) drive, and checked the oil when I got home. A few wisps of smoke smelling of burning oil came out of the dipstick tube when I removed the stick. I was just curious how worried I should be about this.
As far as I can tell, my cooling system works (radiator hoses are warm, good hot air from the vents, thermostat and coolant recently replaced, hoses inspected, no leaks) and I'm not thinking the burnt oil is caused by overheating. There hasn't been any noticeable oil consumption, and I'm pretty diligent about checking the oil on this old car. Oil changes every 3000 miles since I've owned the car; dealer performed scheduled maintenance for the old owners.
Here's my thinking: a worn piston ring allowing oil to be burnt and then sucked back through into the crankcase. When I changed my spark plugs, I did notice an oily residue on one of the plugs (cylinder #1), which also leads me towards a piston ring diagnosis (though I was hoping it was a valve seal causing the oily spark plug, or even a spark plug seal). Do a wet compression test is in order, or should I go ahead and get a leakdown test? I am going to buy a compression tester, but I do not have an air compressor to use with the leakdown tester; I'd have to take it to a shop.
I do need to service the PCV system (and would have done it today, but the parts hadn't arrived at the store) -- would a PCV problem cause the oil to burn, though?
I was changing my oil the other week and when i went to pull the filter I noticed that my tranny pan was wet around the front side, as well as the flywheel insp. plate, and the tranny dipstick tube. It wasn't even enough to drip on my driveway, but wet none the less. after cleaning it up really well and driving it around for 15 minutes it seemed to be coming from the dipstick tube about halfway between where it seats in the tranny and top end of the dipstick.
Removing the tube was easy, just one 10 mm bolt on the back of the engine. After further insp, there was a small piece of insulation on the tube where it passes between the engine and exhaust manifold. when i removed that insulation i noticed there was rust on both the top and bottom of where the insulation sits. i looked it over really well and didnt' see any cracks or holes. I then pluged one end and blew into the other and didnt' notice a loss of pressure or any hissing noise.
I figured if it wasn't leaking and it was already out i might as well clean off the rust and hit it with some paint. I ran a wire brush over the lowest spot of rust and what do you know, 3 tiny little pin holes. I used some 2 part apoxy from work and some aluminum duct tape to repair the hole temporarily until i got the new part in the mail yesterday. total install took around 10 minutes.
It's really not relevant what brought up this question but do you think a broken dipstick tube can cause an engine to run lean and why do you answer that way?
View 3 RepliesThe dipstick tube on my 5.4 snap and ive ordered a new one. it looks like it may not be to hard to replace.
View 4 RepliesI had a small pin fall out from under the dash today in my 2000 F150 today, I was shifting the truck into park when it came out and hit me in the foot. It is turned down on one end and knurled on the other end. Now the shifter feels sloppy front to back and when at rest in park the shifter is almost against the dash, where I should start to look for this? Or do I just start taking it apart until I find a hole with no pin in it? So far it is still shifting and tight as far as what gear its in but goes way too close to the dash.
View 2 RepliesHave a 2006 F-250 with 5.4 motor pulling a 25 ft house trailer. No issues until the towing began a couple weeks ago. Back pressure is building up in the transmission and it is blowing the dipstick out of the transmission tube and spraying fluid all over the place. Truck has 132k miles on it and last serviced @125k miles. No slippage. Fluid isn't burnt. Separate transmission heat gauge not registering hot and it is working - fuse not blown. The transmission does have an auxillary filter on it which is going to get changed tomorrow to see if that solves the problem. Transmission is Automatic. Not driving in 4th gear because of towing. Any thoughts what might be blocking to cause this pressure buildup?
View 6 RepliesI have the 4r75e transmission. Last week I was driving for about 20-30 mins when my transmission fluid started to boiled and came out the dipstick tube. I let it cool off then took my time and drove it home. I know my transmission is not shot because I am getting full power on the transmission. After I got home I checked the fluid level and it's good, then I disconnect the transmission fluid lines on the transmission to see if I am having flow, but no luck...
I took my air hose and blew the lines out and they were clear. I also blew into the transmission thru the ports where the lines were connected. I started the truck up and the fluid came out with full force about 1-2qarts came out before I shut the truck off. I was all excited and I connected all the lines And started the truck to go for a test drive but my gut told me to disconnect the line to see if I am still having a flow and as suspected no flow...
I took off the lines that connected to the transmission and still no flow. I blew the air into the transmission again and started the truck up and bam I have flow again for about 20 seconds... I shut the truck off and I decided to connected the lines back to the transmission and I disconnected the lines about 12" away from the transmission to put a clear hose that connected both lines to make a loop.
Started the truck and there was no flow, I disconnected the 5/8 nut on the transmission and blew the air into the transmission. Started the truck and only got a few dribbles. I check the fluid level and it's still good. I am stuck and don't know what to do... What part of the transmission send the hot fluid out to the cool. The valve body? The main pump? The solenoid???
OK, so I have a 01 f350sd and i went to check my oil and the dipstick tube itself is so rusted it snapped in half so I took it to the dealer which I knew was going to be over priced labor but still checked the tube itself is 20 dollars but labor is upwards of 300-500... My engine is the 5.4 triton.
View 2 Repliesa co-worker brought over a 2000 chevy S-10 v6 automatic 4x4 with a leaking/broken dipstick tube. he bought the new tube/gasket & 6 quarts of auto fluid, and i told him to get a trans filter & gasket since I may need to remove the pan to get the old end of the dipstick tube out.
I was able to get it all out, and get the new tube in fishing it around the rear of the block for a few minutes. I got everything all seated up the tube had to be tapped in with a rubber mallet from the topside.
I checked the tube & seemed to have a nice seal. I replaced the mount bolt, put the filter & pan back on. filled it up & started up the truck.. rowed through the gears. seemed just fine until I looked under the truck. Almost all the ATF I had put in, on the floor.
I attempted to pull the tube & tried to put a little red RTV on the sealing grommet, on the outside & inside. I cleaned the tube & all other surfaces. same results...
how to adapt the tube to a compression fitting that bolts in to the trans .750 hole...
I just finished putting a 7.3 back in one of our f450 plow trucks today, so then i moved onto our 2001 F250 5.4 plow truck. The dipstick tube was rusted in half so i pulled on the remaining half to get it out and put in the new dipstick. However, it broke off at the block. So now i cannot see how to get the rest out with out doing a lot more work. I haven't removed the splash guard yet but will i have to remove the manifold , the oil filter base, or both?
View 14 RepliesSo I've driven my 97 F-150 (4.6 L) around for several months now listening to that wretched left side exhaust leak caused by the nut on the EGR tube rotting off the nipple on the manifold. I tried plugging it, taping it with that exhaust "bandage" tape, etc. Nothing obviously ever lasted. And I sure didn't want to try replacing the manifold and then dealing with the potential broken studs, etc.
Then I finally got around to getting the gas tank straps replaced with that recall. So I took it to the dealership this past Friday. I mentioned the EGR tube leak kind of in passing. The service manager said they could fix it for about 80 bucks. He said they had successfully removed quite a few of those nipples without replacing the manifold. I kind of thought to myself "yeah right" (considering I live in the rust belt with all the road salt, etc.) and told them to go for it.
Not surprisingly, they called me back later in the day and said they couldn't get it out, and he wants to replace the manifold, etc. I just told him to plug it instead. When I picked up the truck, I learned the mechanic decided to WELD it instead of plugging it. I was pretty surprised that he tackled it, and he actually did a pretty decent job in sealing it except for one small pin hole on the back side between the welds. I mixed up some JB Weld and filled the pinhole. The welds may fail or the JB Weld blows out tomorrow, but, in the meantime, I don't have to listen to that wretched exhaust leak constantly. At least I'll have a few days peace if not longer
1998 F150 4.6L. Pretty sure EGR is bad. Clogged ports cleaned, DPFE changed, etc. Tried the suck test on EGR, no change. Still getting 401 code. Ports were really bad, so I figure EGR is clogged/bad also.
Here's the problem....I can't get the nut loose that holds the tube from the manifold onto the EGR. It is on the back side of the EGR facing the firewall. Not a whole lot of room to work with, but I can get a 1-1/16 wrench on it. I have tried soaking it in PB, heating the EGR body with propane, beating on it with everything I can find, and it still won't budge.
If I unbolt the EGR from the TB, I have no leverage on it.
I have the above passat with the AWM motor. There is signs of moisture in the dipstick tube, but not on the oil fill cap. Now today the plastic dipstick funnel snapped due to being frozen to the dipstick.
Now the dipstick had what looks like lithium grease on it. The car has been slowely loosing coolant. But exhaust is clear, no signs of steam or coolant burning through exhaust.
But if the lithium grease like substance on the dipstick was a oil/coolant mix WHY did it freeze . I use a 50/50 mix of pentofrost SF. According to their lable should be good down to below zero. It has not gotten that cold here yet, even at night.
Why or how I could be getting moisture into the motor? And why is it only visible on/in the dipstick funnel and nowhere else.
I was checking the oil this morning before getting ready to drive (for an hour) to the in-laws for Christmas, and the Effing orange plastic dipstick tube broke about halfway down. Now I'm afraid to drive for an hour at highway speeds, for fear that a lot of oil might come out of that compromised Effing orange plastic dipstick tube part -- would you all agree that I should not drive the car? Figures this would happen on Christmas Eve when nothing is open.
View 6 Replies