Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Drive Without Front Driveshaft Will Cause Damage?
Oct 23, 2016
Can I do this without damage to anything?
'97 Expedition (but the F150 forum seems more mechanically incline, no offense to the Expedition forum).
I'm trying to find the cause of a vibration in what I think is the front drivetrain. I was almost positive that it was the front driveshaft universal joints. I jacked the truck up off all fours and took her for a spin. The noise seemed to be coming from the from u-joint.
I took the u-joints off and they were still nicely lubricated (after 230,000 miles). My heart sank since this probably not the root of my problem.
I'm surely going to put new u-joints in but think I'll get them from the dealer tomorrow (if the OEM stuff lasted this long, why buy aftermarket, even though it's the same stuff? I dunno, just my OCD kicking in.)
So, I thought I would take the truck for a drive without the front driveshaft today (in 2wd of course) to see if the vibration was gone. Can I do this?
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I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 4.6L automatic trans. The truck has 260,000 miles on it. Saturday, while going down the interstate, this chirping noise started up from the rear. When I got home I jacked the rear up and spun the wheels while listening. There is a chirping noise that, as best as I can tell is coming from around the front of the driveshaft around the u-joint area. I've never known of a u-joint to make this type of noise before. There is no vibration or anything, just the noise. The frequency of the noise increases and decreases as I speed up and slow down. I don't think it's coming from the transmission, but it's hard to tell, as everything echoes. I couldn't imaging the driveshaft itself making this noise, but I guess it's possible.
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I am doing some work on the truck and need to get the front drive shaft to drop down, I have the four bolts out but I can not get it to move. What am I not doing?
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What the torque spec is for the driveshaft to rear differential flange mounting bolts on the 99 F150 4x4 supercab?
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My t case will engage in 4 high and 4 low. so i know the switch and motor works because it go all the way to 4 low and i can feel the lower gears. BUT the front drive shaft is not turning because i know that the front diff is engaging just fine cus one I just fixed it and because when i put it in 4x4 the front drive shaft is locked in but when i take it out the drive shaft moves freely when i turn it by hand. But when I test it in gravel or mud the front wheels still ain't turning. So its gota be the t case. But what are the part that may be broken in the t case and if I can fix it wile its still on the truck.
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I have a 97 F-150 4wd and when I drive over rough places on the road you can hear a rattling noise. It also causes my truck to thud loudly. But also as I just coast at about 10 mph with the window down you can hear that rattling noise. Almost sounds like a washer sliding on a shaft or something. You can definitely tell something is loose in the front end when i hit rough places. We've jacked it up and tried to move the wheel and the bearings and ball joints seem tight.
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I recently bought a 1997 F150 4wd 5sp manual. While changing the fluids, I noticed that the front u joint on the rear drive shaft has a grease fitting. No matter how I rotate that shaft, I cannot access that fitting with my grease gun, even when fitted with a flexible rubber hose.
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first off this not my truck i am asking about it's my dads, he has a 2002 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4L and he replaces the coil packs all the time is there a way to prevent these from failing so often, and is there an easy way to get to the spark plug on the very back on the passenger side?
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Re packed / cleaned my hubs. Did a 600 mile trip and front driveshaft is locked again. Am trying for first time soaking them. They are in tranni fluid right now. I can't afford warn hubs. Is there any other tricks? Or will I have to soak them every few months?
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I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
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I want to and went to buy a new 2012 F350 leftover - everything is good except that Ford.com says the truck was initially put into service In September of 2012 and therefore my warranty will expire in September of 2015 instead 2016.
Dealer says it's an error and will be corrected AFTER I buy the truck, so far I have been unable to get a straight answer from Ford.
Any information about being able ot change the original date a vehicle is put into service ?
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Just notice this in the manual page 302 The vehicle should not be driven in 4x4 high or low with the lock hubs set to auto as this condition may damage driveline system components.
Page 303 It then goes on to say !!
Automatic operation of the hub locks is recommended and will increase fuel economy.
when using 4x4 once in awhile LOCK or AUTO
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What would I need to replace in order to fix this leak ?
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I was having a problem with 4wd and regreased/ cleaned hubs and when I went to test operation both fronts would engage and worked good. After a while.of testing in and out of 4wd I heard a loud clunk and looked under, the front driveshaft blew apart at the weld.the u joints dont seem to be bad so im at a loss as why this snapped. It was not a clean break and the edges looked like it had to started to tear at some part in the past due to rust build upon the inside.of the shaft and torn edge. Im lookin at 2 feet of snow expected here Tuesday, so im trying to find some answers as well as a.new shaft.
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Some say the front drive shaft should turn by hand in 2h and some say it shouldn't.... I have an 06 FX4, with auto locking hubs (meaning if I want 4H i turn from 2H to 4H). I've been getting a terrible shake at 55mph (yes I've read the forums on that too, not my question) .
So I crawled underneath to look at rear driveshaft, u joints, etc..., and by chance I grabbed the front driveshaft to pull myself forward to check out everything else, and it didn't turn......
I twisted a little and the shafts going to both front wheels turned. Now shouldn't these turn freely in 2H?....The light to 4H never comes on when I switch it, but it is engaged (or else I'd never have gotten unstuck....several times)... Am I stuck in 4H and just didn't know? .
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I have 98 ford explorer sport 4x4 does has a clicking noise coming from the front driveshaft that connects the transfer case to the front differential. At first we thought it was the front drivers side cv joint which we replaced. nothing changed. there is still a noise apparently coming from the front driveshaft. we can not tell if it is the front differential or the transfer case itself. The noise is being transfer through the front driveshaft. It sounds a bearing is going bad.
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This morning, while looking into why the front drive wouldn't engage, and moving the plastic cover over the battery out of the way to check for any vacuum issues, the positive battery post cable to the battery post moved. There was some fluctuation engine-wise. After I shut it off and tightened down the cable, re-started the truck, and continued looking for vacuum leaks, a few minutes later the truck died.
What's been done thus far, re-checked battery connections, checked in-line mini fuse-20amp, checked both mega fuses-power both sides of each, checked 10 amp #4 in cab fuse block, removed alternator and took for check-checked ok. Would there be something else that would trip if there was an abrupt dis-connect from the battery with the truck running?
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I drive a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500. It has 2wd, 4hi, and 4lo. I have heard from some old timers that if I drive in 4hi at highway speeds it will damage the vehicle. The manual does not say anything about not driving highway speeds in 4hi. I only drive in 4 hi when there is lots of snow on the road (I-25/I-70 between Colorado Springs and the mountains mostly). Any good info on this? I understand how 4hi is no good on dry pavement (I've made that mistake a few times), but in a snowy situation on the interstate where I am not making any turns, only highway curves, is there anything wrong with it? I am talking speeds like 50-70 mph.
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I accidentally drove my Toyota Matrix in third gear at highway speed for at least 50 miles. Did I do damage?
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Have a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero.
Best car I've ever owned. 184K miles, never once failed to start.
I was crushed to discover this spot of frame cancer on the driverside rear portion of the frame behind the rear wheel (attached images) .
Is this terminal?
Is it safe to drive and therefore potentially crash this vehicle?
Before the ground froze I dug a 10x18x10 foot deep hole in the backyard....
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