Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Losing Oil - Dipstick Was Almost Bone Dry?
Feb 3, 2016
So in my 2003 F150 I have been losing small amounts of oil. I changed my oil about 2 months ago, and after I checked it yesterday the dip stick was almost bone dry. There are no external leaks but I noticed that I keep getting oil coming out of my PCV valve into my throttle body (the other end of that valve is connected to my valve cover). Is that normal or what? Where else could my oil be going? Cracked head?
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I have a 2000 F-250 super duty. It's a 7.3 and Powerstroke. Replaced my fuel filter and when i removed old one fuel is solid black. Needless to say, filter didnt solve my problem. Checked oil it was bone dry. A couple days ago it was topped off. Added 2 gallons of oil to get it home (less than 2 miles) and parked it until next morning. Check oil again and bone dry, no oil spots on driveway or engine block.
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Rusted dipstick tube I thought was going to be an easy enough fix. Broke off clean at the block. Tried for hours, easy out, prying, vise grips anything I could think of. Well I tried to pry the side of the tube over to make room for my needle nose vise grips, and boom. Down in the oil pan it goes.
Do you think theres any way possible I can fish it out through the drain plug. I really dont want to pull the darn motor.
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I got a 97 F250 4x4 w/ 4.6 lt. motor & auto trans. The engine is leaking oil. It looks to be coming from a set of hoses that are on the adaptor that is between the oil filter & the engine block. Also what are the oil lines called? It is leaking motor oil not transmission oil.
Also just pulled my oil dip stick & the whole thing (dip stick & the tube) came off the truck. Seems the tube has rotted away at the oil pan. Is this also a job I can do?
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I have a minor leak at the base of the trans dipstick tube. I assume that the tube is press in ? has an o-ring ? I put some silicone around the area and that worked about a week, the fluid is probably eating through that type sealant. The trans is a 4r70. Seems to me that the actual tube should be ok and having never dealt with replacing one I want a little advice before yanking it out.
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Ford F-150, 1999, 4WD. My dipstick tube has rusted off right at the point where it attaches to the engine block. I purchased a new one but I'm not sure if that's a job I can do on my own. What installing a new tube will entail?
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My 4.2 l f150 has been losing a lot of oil.7quarts in a week.the truck runs great and it does not smoke.i have been under the truck looking for any significant leaks.I left it parked on concrete overnight no oil drips. I've had my wife rev it up while I was under the truck cannot find anything
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I have a 2002 f150 5.4 4x4 with 151,000 miles. I am using a lot of oil but its not leaking out. What should I do to fix problem.
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I have a 1997 f150 lariat 4.6, at some point i started losing power, so of course I had my friend come by and check all the mechanics under neath the hood and besides needing caps and rotors all seemed well under there, so twice I've put it on a computer and it needs and o2 sensor, I've already checked my Cadillac coverter , and dropped and replaced my gas tank twice, I ended up having to replace a shock, it does run better when i put heat through it for a short time.
I've been checking my antifreeze and I am not losing none, I also did regular maintenance to it to figuring it was a fowled plug but still no good , so whats next ? coils ? I didn't replace my plug wires but I checked them all and they looked to be in good condition and I have a transmission filter kit to change that out I don't believe its been done ever ..
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About mid-October I noticed when it as real cold out and I had the heat running whenever I would come to a stop I noticed there is very little to no heat coming from the vents, despite the engine being warm and running at operating temps. At the time I was working for a shop and I asked one of the mechanics what the problem was. He said that it was the radiator not having enough coolant.
Turns out when we pulled the cap the coolant res, was just about bone dry. So we added in about a gallon or so of coolant with the truck running and sure enough at idle the heat was back.
Fast forward to the last couple of weeks and when I am sitting at idle again same thing happens. So somehow the engine is losing coolant. Its not ending up in the oil (no white on the dipstick) and there is not a coolant leak. As it sits there is 255,300 miles on the truck now. 1999 5.4L F150....
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2001 F150! It does this weird little surge, burping and farting away...but only in ambient heat. The engine never gets hot, it never over heats. What have we done? A full tuneup with new plugs and boots, oil change, new air filter, gas filter. It did it again...took it back in and had the fuel pressure checked, fuel injectors are fine...it can't be the fuel pump, it runs great unless it is hot weather. It has twice blown the P0171 system lean bank 1 code and has gone away after the tuneup and again after the new o2 sensor. It runs great, except in hot weather, starts surging and losing power...
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Truck started just fine this morning, was driving for about 15 minutes and it started to lose power going up a gradual incline. I didn't even think of it really and so I just pushed the pedal in a bit and no increase in power, in fact it bogged down. I let up and went back to the gas and same thing. This was barely pressing the pedal down. I got to the top of the incline and started back down a bit and gained speed (dropped from 55-60 to 40 at the crest) up to 55, hit level ground and started to lose power again, and it felt for the life of me like the truck was fighting for every ounce of power it could get. Everytime I would step on it it would bog down again. I nursed it to an appointment I had, and when I got done with that I started back home. Same thing. It would accelerate from a stop up to 30 (I've always been a laid back accelerater) and when I would read 35-45 it would start to dog again. I got it back home.
2nd issue: On the way home I had to stop at a highway crossing on a slight inline. There the truck started to shudder a bit. and if I would just touch the gas pedal it would bog down. I played with it a bit and got it to rev a bit. put it in reverse got away from the intersection and let it idle a bit when It died. started right back up, no problem. would play with the accelerator and same thing. I finally got it to rev a bit and 2 footed it back home slipping from neutral to drive.
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I just bought a 97 F250 with a 5.8 in it. Im loosing coolant somewhere. Did a pressure test it checked out fine, no steam from exhaust, no coolant in oil. Nothing on the ground, it making me nuts. Truck has 182000 miles on it but its clean, no rust and runs to good. I don't know much about Fords but someone told me it could be air pockets. It just got a new radiator b4 I bought it.
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I have a 1997 f 150 4.6l, 145k miles, it seems that very slowly it is loosing coolant but i haven't noticed any leaks, it also burn about a quart of oil every 3000 miles but i was told that was normal?
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I recently bought a 4.2L V6 2003 F150 with only 20,350 original miles. This car belonged to an older gent who barely used it, then passed on about 3 years ago, and truck sat around barely used by anyone. When I picked it up I ran some Seafoam through the first two gas tanks as it was occasionally running rough and losing power. Since then truck has been running incredibly smooth, but in the last few days it is getting harder to start. If I pumped it two or three times it would start OK, but today I have had to pump it while cranking it to get it to start. ( the pumping may have nothing to do with it starting)
I am replacing the fuel filter in the next couple of days, as any accumulated junk that was in the tank or lines is now probably in the filter, but it seems that a badly clogged filter would also give me some problems running, and it runs really smooth once it starts. I get a pressure gauge, (I understand the rails have a pressure test port) what pressures should I expect at what moments?
Turn key on :
Crank engine :
I am brand new to the F150 and trucks in general.
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I have a 1992 F-150 straight 6. Several days ago it started running rough and losing power and the trans shifted hard.
I put my code reader on it this morning and it read codes 332 and 334 - Insufficient EGR flow detected and EGR closed valve voltage high...
I have looked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. Is it possible the EGR valve is stuck?
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Pulled my dipstick out to repair the flange seal where the tube goes into the pan. Now it sticks out about 2 inches. Ive tried putting it in both ways. Now it was sitting in my truck over the front seats with the center armrest down, so it may have gotten bent the wrong way? I read a few tricks online Ill try after lunch here. I did have some vice grips on the tube to try to get it off of the flange, but I took my fingers and felt the entirety of the tube and didnt feel and dents or irregular bends. Right now the tube is held by zipties, as I had to cut the bracket off, its a long story. . . So is that something that would make it stop short? Does this truck have a 2nd tube that sticks into the oil pan or is it just the one?
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Heading back up to get the last load of antique tractors from the show and something seemed funny. 2 miles later turn into a side Road less power. Pull over. Oil everywhere. Shut it down. Nut completely unthreaded.
Get it on and tighten as best I could with a pair of channel locks one size too small. Dump in a gallon of oil. Now it is just on the stick. Start it and sounds good. Still leaking.
Called a buddy to see if he can get me. Yep sure but his wife is not happy. Something about him going to Texas at 7 am for work for a week..... Give him directions hoping he makes it since he has no sense of direction.
Obs 7.3 stops. Talk to him. He doesn't have anything better for tools on him but lives a mile down the road. Drop the trailer on the side of the road. Drive to his farm and got some better fitting pliers. Either I got too heavy handed or I cross threaded it. Stripped the nut. The flange threads look good.
Drive back to the trailer and sit intersection so my buddy doesn't miss it. Hook my trailer to his truck and get mine loaded. In the end it turned out as best as it probably could have. Pictures to follow when the sun comes up. Time to read up on the dipstick flange. Hoping a new nut and o-rings will fix it.
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The dipstick tube flange is now leaking ....
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The bolt that holds the dipstick on the valve cover. i have tried for ever to get this thing off. soaked it , got a skinny wrench on the nut underneath but think it might be stripped (1/2 inch grinded out a little). going to try and get a set of skinny wrenches tomorrow , mine bent. tried vise grips on top of the bolt and put a box wrench on the nut , and gave it my all. The damn thing won't budge.
Also, any tips on the rest of the valve cover bolts. I had to remove some from inside the fender well but barely got to them. My question is not getting these out but getting them back in. And how the heck to you torque these things??? The bolt i mentioned above is creating problem, and I only have so much time
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I had a leak at the flange several months ago. I fixed it with the diesel o rings kit. I made a trip from TX to AL with no leaking and drive it daily without leaks. But, 2 weeks ago noticed a small dribble of a leak from the same spot again - not enough to leave a mark on the pavement but any leaking drives me nuts. I applied some RTV. It worked for the 2 weeks.
Today, noticing another dribble of a leak coming through the RTV down the pan. I'm thinking the flange is bent and not keeping that o-ring sealed against the pan. I'm going to try to apply some additional RTV at the leak spot. If this doesn't work? Is that Strictly Diesel adapter really worth that kind of dough? Is pushing the OEM adapter into the pan really acceptable? Any other options?
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