My truck is a 1998 F-150 4X4 set up for towing etc. The left front started smoking and the front end just started bouncing around very badly. Of course I pulled off and let it cool down. My question is this; I've pulled the hub and the bearings seem smooth although maybe a bit tight. I've checked the caliper and it seems to be working properly.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 F150 4x4 5.4 ex cab. The last few months, the back of my truck has been bouncing bad. Speed doesn't matter, every bump will make the back end bounce like crazy, heck even dropping or closing the tail gate will make it bounce. I've replaced the shocks at all 4 corners, rear shocks have been replaced with 3 different sets trying to rule out bad shocks out of the box, new leaf springs and shackles and hangers look good. I've checked the cab mounts, checked for cracks in the frame or anything loose. It has me stumped.
View 14 RepliesI have a 4.6 01 F150 with 3.08 rear end I got back in Sept. In Nov. I replaced the timing chain/guides and brakes/rotors all the way around. I have also flushed the cooling sys. and replaced all the coil packs/plugs in Nov. About 2 months ago I started feeling a vibration(feels like the truck is bouncing most of the time not bad but I know something isnt right) at ~37MPH. Not always bad but 98% of the time you can feel it.
I feel it at other speeds sometimes also. 2% of the time I dont feel anything. It had older tires and I got a new set ~ 3 weeks ago and its the same. A couple days ago I put a GoPro under it and filmed the driveshaft and it does seem to be bent some. What might be my issue or things I can check myself? One other note is the previous owner did use the truck to haul a horse trailer some and I know now that rear end was not the best for that! Truck has 210K on it and engine was replaced at ~ 150K
2001 F150 Driveshaft wobble - YouTube
I went down the street and back and only got up to ~35MPH
I have a 2000 f150 5.4 liter engine. I traveled about a month ago and while on the highway it started "bouncing/shuttering" really bad. I pulled off and while still in drive but completely stopped it was still bouncing but when in park it stopped. I took in into the Ford dealership and they said that cylinder 5 was misfiring and it was losing pressure fast. Then it stopped acting up completely and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
Well about a week ago it started bouncing again on city roads (no highway). The check engine light came on and Orielys said it was a cylinder 5 misfire. Also, under the oil cap and in the tube where you would put the oil in has a yellow thick substance on it. I know that it is water in the oil. Also, there is a black "gunk" not far from where you would put the oil in. Could these problems be connected?
I have a 1998 f150 4x4 with a 4.6 triton vin #w and only 150,000 miles but its smoking. On first start up everything is good to go but when the engine reaches operating temperatures it will smoke.
It does not smoke all the time, just on takeoff. Such as after taking off after sitting at a red light it will puff a cloud of smoke from both sides of the engine. The engine is smoking blue so I know its oil its burning.
I pulled the valve covers off last week and the engine is clean, no sludge or gum. Power is good, runs good, and has good compression. Why its smoking.
I have a 2002 F150 4.6 liter 2 wheel drive with 49000 original miles, 30000 of that in the past 2 years. on a recent road trip the right rear disk brake caliper jammed in city traffic. I limped into a local repair shop with the right rear brake smoking. I rolled out with all new rear rotors pads and calipers. The mechanic could not locate new brake hoses. These hoses and lines are one piece from the caliper to the T fitting on the axle. Even the ford dealer could not locate the right rear brake lines.
Made it home 450 miles but the right rear caliper is still dragging a little on the new rotor. Seems to be about 40F hotter than the left side. I have spent the day trying to find replacements and can find the left side in one piece but not the right side. I have looked at the the union where the hose and line connect and there is no hex on the line side of the fitting its just round. You can see where the mechanic put a pipe wrench on the round and tried to break the two pieces apart but no luck.
I've got an '02 F150 with a 5.4L Triton. Despite being 10 yrs. old it's just passed the dealer warranty mileage about 80,000 miles. Due to a family situation it's been sitting idle for upwards of 2 or 3 weeks between startups.
When I do startup there's a puff of blue/geyish smoke, the engine idles rough for about 30 secs. and then everything smooths out and she runs normal.
I haven't noticed this issue before, I would add the temps here have been extremely cold the last few weeks. What direction do I point a mechanic in so he doesn't waste time or money on a diagnostic.
I have been "fighting" a front tire cupping problem on my L99 F350 Dually 2wd since I have owned it.
I got LOTS of paperwork with it, one of which was a service ticket from the dealer where it was bought new (with VERY low miles on it) saying several passing motorists had informed them that the front tires were bouncing down the road.
I have read this service complaint several times and I now feel that has something to do with it. I bought the truck with 70k on it some 8 years ago-the PO had installed EXPENSIVE Michelin XPS Rib steering tires on it and they were already destroyed by cupping.
I replaced all 4 shocks, and all 6 tires, begged the folks to FIND something wrong/loose/worn out on the front suspension/steering and they found nothing, they aligned it. THAT set of Cooper Discoverer HT tires did exactly the same thing, except I spent a lot of $$ having the tires rotated.
Now I have a set of Firestone TransForce tires on it and its been to a HD truck shop where I begged them to rip into the front end and FIND something wrong-THEY DIDN'T. THEY installed camber bolts and aligned it, yep, you guessed it STILL CUPPING!!
So, now I'm thinking is it possible that the wrong coil springs were installed at the factory causing this bouncing that the original owner reported to the dealer? I have now destroyed 2 more tires and getting tired of it.
Picked up my 5th wheel this afternoon from being raised 3". Dropped over the 10 percent grade down the hill to normal driving. Had the trailer brake controller to boost #2 (Prodigy controller). Had to brake pretty continuously, (tried to stay off it a bit, but is is about 10 grade for about 3/4 mile. Put the auto trans in D2 to get brakes come to the red light at the bottom. Noticed a puff of smoke at the front. Driver side, didn't notice passenger side.
New pads and new slotted rotors new maybe 1,500 miles ago. Not liking that action, but need thoughts. Want to put a thousand or 2 miles towing this summer and accompanying mountainous terrain and back.
2000 F350 Lariat Super Duty 7.3 4x4 NOT a dually.
I have a 2003 Santa Fe and it's been running fine except I just replaced my oil pan from damage from ice and just did front brake pads 2 days ago.( oil went onto the pads and caused a weird grinding sound) ...
After the brake pads were done it drove fine. I came home and the next morning I go to reverse and the truck will not move at all. I can go to any gear but it just will not move. I thought it could be the brakes were frozen because the front right was smoking after the pads were installed and had the guy who did them check it out. he figured it was a caliper on the driver's side and replaced it, but it will still not move. I am praying this is not a trans problem.
'97 Taurus GL Wagon 197k: Some of this stuff has been going on for some time now (several months ... maybe even a year).
1.) Driving Itself:
Car seems to drive itself on my way home from work which is a long, flat road in the 45-55 mph speed range. Once I get into this range, I can take my foot off the gas pedal and the car pretty much maintains speed until I get to an upgrade. I've even noticed times when I'm not pressing the pedal but the car is slightly speeding up to the point where I have to keep tapping the brake to keep from getting too close to the car in front of me.
2.) Stalling/High Idle:
Sometimes when I come to a less than smooth stop at a light - say, a yellow light that quickly turns red and I have to stop quicker than I'd want, the car will stall out. This has only happened a couple of times in the last 6 months, but it had never done this at all up to this point, so it's a new phenomena. Otherwise, the idle is usually at 600 rpm (except recently I've been seeing high idles of 2000 rpm every so often, which is really weird!!). Also, it seems like if I park the car on an incline, the engine will turn over many more times trying to "catch" and start - and the whole start-up sequence just feels weak - like it's not getting enough gas.
3.) Tach Bouncing:
This one's got me the most concerned because I think it's the most serious (and potentially the most costly to fix). I completely transfused the tranny fluid a few months ago as a possible solution, by the way, so the fluid (Dexron Mercon IV) is fresh. At about 1500 rpm on the tach, the tach sometimes starts bouncing up and down on the scale and I can feel a metallic engagement/disengagement cycle. If I get above or below this area on the tach, however, no problem. Also, taking off from a standstill -even though I accelerate very slowly and smoothly because I KNOW the tranny is "soft" and will 'slip and slap' if I don't - I'm recently starting to feel a very very brief grinding-like slippage feeling that does not hinder acceleration much at all, but feels very unsettling. This is a new feeling and it only happens every now and then (so far).
You're gonna say the tranny's on its way out, right?
Truck is an 89 single cab, single rear wheel F350 4x4 with 7.3 non turbo diesel and a c6 trans. not lifted, stock size tires. If you hit just the right bump, regardless of speed, the front end just goes crazy.. tires and wheel shoot violently side to side and its very frightening/dangerous. you can just barely hold the wheel, front end is bouncing and whole truck shakes from such rapid camber change as the contact patch swaps from inside to outside of the tread.
Tie rod end, draglink, steering stabilizer (add on,) shock absorbers (rancho,) and a wheel bearing are all brand new. With each part replaced the shake felt worse (since more of it was transmitted to the steering wheel rather than lost in the sloppy parts) and i took it off the road immediately.
Brand new steering box, put it back on the road, did it again less than a mile away. It rained all day so i haven't jacked the truck up again and really, I am quite sick of this problem.
Got stuck in the sand pits today. While trying to get out by going forward and back. I always get the front end starts bouncing hard. I always let off. Is this wheel hop or axle wrap?
Whatever it's called. How do I minimize this. It's a shame to have all that power and not be able to lay it down.
2002 excursion 4x4 7.3 l all stock.
I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
View 1 Replies2002 F250, 8 inch lift w/ 37's ... Manual locking hubs ...
Ok so my truck has no issues in 2wd even with hubs both locked or when in 4x4 hi/ low with hubs UNLOCKED.
BUT as soon has 4x4 system is in action as I idle forward there's a massive clunking and binding sound like a sledge hammer bouncing off my front diff./ drive shaft. But there's no physical binding of any components that I can see! Just a rhythmic and consistent thumping.
When you turn the wheel either direction the sound intensifies. I even dangled from the side steps as my buddy rolled forward to observe the situation.
I noticed my 2009 AWL Santa Fe (3.3L if it maters) had been 'bouncing' in the front end...so i brought it in to have it looked at.
The dealer here has advised me both front struts are leaking, and its still safe to drive.
This car bounces a lot, but on city roads, its not bad...On highway, you hit a little hump in the road, and it seems to bounce A LOT...for a bit of time, then settles. City driving isn't' that bad, its the highway that's freaky.
This coming weekend, I'm going camping, and tow 3500lbs with my Santa Fe, i have a weight distribution system/bars on the trailer to the vehicle. so it moves some of the weight to the front.
My jeep cherokee would begin to bounce crazily when I went over a bump in road. I wouldn't stop until I slowed down....
View 7 RepliesMy ICP is running low, 460 to 480 at idle and bouncing all over the place. It doesn't get above 2500 or so at WOT acceleration the ECM is throwing a "pending" DTC for low ICP. I removed the ICP regulator solenoid coil and cleaned the inside, filled the connector with dielectric grease and reconnected. That worked for a while but it's creeping down again. I'm going to pull the ICP regulator and clean and rebuild it as soon as I figure out how to do it w/o taking the whole HPOP assy off. How to determine if the root cause is the ICP reg. or the HPOP? Regulator duty cycle is running 15-20% at idle and less than 30% the rest of the time which makes me think it's the HPOP.
View 14 RepliesThis morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine. Nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night. Will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
View 14 RepliesFeels like the front suspension is blown in the front of my car and i got an alignment not too long ago and the sides are feathering already. spoke to couple of my friends and we have confirmed that the front is blown and also when i drive i see the front bouncing when i go over bumps. I just want to ask the people who did remove their stock suspension and see what brand they are.
View 8 RepliesI have my 2002 Ford F450 7.3 diesel in the shop right now. Early story is it is leaking in the turbo or there is a problem with the turbo. Last summer I took the truck cross country and 500 miles from home I was gunning it to get on the highway and it started acting up (poor excelleration). And it started smoking and leaking oil. I crippled it home at lower speeds. Now that it's in the shop they told me about the turbo but have to keep it till tomorrow for a closer look. My question is what else should I consider since they have it in. I mean should they replace the turbo while their at it or any other parts that make sense since they are already into it?
View 14 Replies