Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Low Oil Pressure - Won't Start?
Jan 20, 2013
i have a 2005 F150 5.4L while driving my message board bell indicated low oil pressure i pulled into the station and checked oil. i had to add about 2 qts i filled up with gas and the truck has not started since. I towed it home changed the oil, filter, oil pressure sensor and the fuel filter
when i try to start it the engine turns over normal no noises, knocking or anything out of the ordinary. It sounds like it wants to start but then acts like something is shutting the fuel pump down. I had the local mechanic tell me that the fuel pump was out. I can here the fuel pump kick on for no more than 2 seconds then shuts off. he told me it should pump for about 5 to 10 seconds. i am not convinced it is the fuel pump dont want to spend $300 on something i dont need.
is there a saftey cut off swith to the fuel pump when the low oil pressure indicator comes on? i also check the codes and its not giving any codes but i had removed the battery and replaced it and i am thinking that removed the codes?
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I have a 2005 F150 XLT 5.4 that doesn't always start. I've been having this problem for over a year now.
Sometimes it will start, but sometimes it won't. Seems about every other, or perhaps every 3 days it just will not start. Then, if I wait a few hours, it'll start.
I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, mass air flow sensor, fuel pump driver module, starter and the battery. None of this has seemed to effect it.
Lately I've found out that if I put the truck in neutral, then while cranking I go to park (going through reverse) it will start. Sometimes not on the first try, but after a few attempts it will start.
It should also be noted that when it does start, often it'll make some loud noise RIGHT before it starts up. Sounds kind of like the starter grinding. If it doesn't make the grind noise, the other thing it may do is all the lights and everything turn off for an instant (half a second) then come back on and start.
I'm really lost as to what to do. I've been thinking that it may be the transmission range sensor, but I really don't know. I don't want to keep spending money replacing random parts, in hopes of fixing it. I'm on the 3rd starter, because of all the cranking I have to do when it doesn't start.
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My truck just shut down and now will not start//turn the key on it pulsates at the throttle under the hood and red security light pulsates same time.....I saw post a while back a truck had the same problem. I took the postive and neg off waited 2 hour put back on did nothing no codes come up either ......I was just driving along engine just shut down got it towed ....
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My engine wont start and i have changed the fuel pump, the fuel pump module, and the fuel rail sensor. it has started once for about 30 seconds but dies and wont start again.
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My 2005 cranks but will not start. I spray starter fluid in throttle body and it will start but won't stay running. I've replaced the fuel pump and the fuel sender unit which is located under the spare tire. After I replaced the fuel sender unit It started and ran for about 30 seconds. It quit when the fuel line popped off the fuel pump and pushed gas all over the ground. I secured the gas line back on and now it won't start again unless I use starting fluid.
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I drive a 2005 F-150 XLT with a 5.4L engine in it. This problem only happens after I have been running the truck on a small trip (15-20 min), stop to get something, and then 5 min later start the truck up, and this is the feedback I get.
-Sometimes it barely cranks, idles for a second and then cuts back off.
OR
-Takes much longer than usual to crank and get's going fine.
This is the only time it happens, upon restart after driving for a short period.
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My 05 f-150 Supercrew 5.4l, will start for a second and then die. I can sometimes feather it and rev it up, but it dies as soon as you let off. I changed the fuel filter and while we had the lines off we turned the key on and it pumped fuel but only for a few seconds. Shouldn't the pump run constantly with an open line?
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I have a 2005 STX with 107,000 miles on it. When it is cold you have to turn the key on for 5 seconds twice then start it. When it is warm it will start like it always did. When the temperature outside is 60 or above you have to do the key thing about 5 times. I think it is my fuel pump...
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I have a 05 f150, on initial startup ALL of my needles shake for about 5 seconds and then return to normal operation. What is wrong.
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Brought a 2006 f350 6.0 from the action and knowing it was damaged from the frame, i went ahead and brought a another f350 6.0 2005 from someone around town, the last owner is calming the truck was stole, and most of the engine was stole, and the windows where damage. ( I just wanted to buy the truck for the body so i can transfer the engine to this one! ) but instead of switching the engine, me and my dad went ahead and only put the missing parts back onto the engine....
I can tell the last owner wasn't telling the truth, and me and my dad where thinking the last owner made up his own story about the truck being stole !! I did a vin check and noting came up about having a bad history!!!!!!!!! I'm thinking something went bad in the truck, and the last owner did his own fault story... Anyways!!!
we finally put everything back in place, and the truck cranks, but does NOT start!! and also has no spark. sometimes it sounds like it does wanna start!! we check the fuel, and wires, oil, fuel filer! everything good, but the truck has no spark, and where not sure if thats the problem. and also switch out the Crank sensor. Still no luck!!
And also there is smoke when we crank. battery are good too, and even left the truck 28 hours on the wire to head up the engine!!
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I put in a cold air intake in my 05 5.4l. Now truck will start up then die, the throttle doesnt seem to open up when i step on the gas. everything was working fine before I started on it.
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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2005 F250 To date this has been done, some at different times. ARP studs, OEM head gaskets, heads machined, oil cooler replaced, new fuel injectors, reman'd HPOP w/IPR with STC fitting, EGR delete, 4" turbo back and SCT x3 tow tune.
We originally had a leaking injector that gave us issues (Thread is here) but we pulled the cab and went through the motor, installed studs etcetera.
After the rebuild we ran it approximately 1K miles and it ran great, then one day towing a '65 C10 on a 20' flatbed it shut off while cruising down the road, crank no start on the side of the road, scanguage showed ICP was too low to fire the injectors so we towed it back to the shop and replaced the HPOP, still low ICP.
What's the next step of diagnosis? I'll have ICP numbers by Monday, it's been several months since all this happened and I'm currently out of state trying to diagnose. If i remember correctly the ICP numbers were low teens or 20's. I don't know for sure but I don't think we replace the standpipe or dummy plugs when we had it apart, could that be the issue?
My thoughts are either we have a leak in the high-pressure side or low pressure isn't supplying enough oil to build pressure, so in theory, we would want to check low pressure first, correct?
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0 has 585000. Installed new hpop and lpop and new ipr .pressured oil system with air don't hear any leaks. After truck done started then put truck together no start same problem as before. No oil pressure on dash. All checks goqd except not enough high pressure.
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My 2004 f 150 heritage 4.6 l the oil pressure dropped all the way down i was in a drive thru and it was clattering really bad so i pulled into the parking lot and shut it down pulled the stick plenty of oil i re started about 30 minutes later and it pumped oil pressure. So I started on my way home the gauge would go to normal and when I would touch the brakes and let off the gas it would drop and the oil light would come on and the engine would start rattling and would have no power, I would pull over and do it over again and finally i just called a tow truck.
So I changed the oil new motorcraft filter and 5/30 motor oil , it started up made all kind of noise but i got oil pressure and quieted down i went to drive it and as soon as it started to roll the pressure dropped and the oil light came on and it started to rattle again. Whats happening is the pump going out ? can it be replaced with out pulling the engine? the truck has 200,000 miles on it
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Is there a port I can hook a mechanical oil pressure gauge to for checking my oil pressure.
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2004 Lariat. Ford F150, 5.4 Triton. Whenever I slow down, stop, or turn my truck will read low oil pressure, then all my gauges drops and it stalls out. I've taken it to my mechanic twice now. And twice he's replaced two sensors. Today I took it to Wal-Mart for an oil change and they said its probably why my check engine light is on code, T19. I've had that light on for 4 years now and this stalling out problem starts 3 months ago. So far its had regular oil changes, new air filter, two new sensors and im scraping money to throw at it. Hitting snow banks, other vehicles, and tree's... need to find the real problem before I go broke or worst kill someone in an accident.
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I upgraded my 2007 f150 xl from 17" hankook tires to 18" michelins....problem is the low tire pressure light has come on and wont go off....Ive checked the tire pressure and all are equal... how to turn this light off, or what may be the problem?
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I have been having quite a rough time fixing a P0345 code on my 06 F-150 w/5.4 w/85,000. This truck has gone to a Ford dealer every 5K for the oil change/checkup etc.
Long and short - P0345 Code @ approx 83,500 miles, rough idle once the engine was up to temp and it would clear if you bumped the skinny pedal.
I have replaced the following:
--Both Cam Phasers
--Both VCT Solenoids (they both had holes in the screens - see this post [URL] ....
--Passenger side Cam Position sensor (I broke it pulling it out to do phaser swap)
--Spark plugs - SP515's
Issue was still present so then I replaced:
--Complete Timing chain set (Chains,Gear, Guides and Tensioners) - Drivers (left) side tensioner collapsed.
Once all back together and running the code is still there so I finally installed a REAL electric oil pressure gauge. Turns out I only have about 15psi at hot idle and 50psi when driving etc.
I am at wits end, because at this point I would have to guess that the engine is junk... Either a bearing is shot or whatever... Do I take the 3-4 hours to drop the pan to potentially see what is going on? Or just drop some 15W40 in the engine and trade it in?
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Do the tensioners have an O-ring where they mount to the block? I read a lot about blown tensioner seals...are people talking about the block to tensioner seal or the internal seal between tensioner body and plunger?
Also of course it makes sense to check oil pressure first with real gauge, but if the tensioner seals are toast, then one doesn't really get a good reading until they are replaced.
My dad has an 04 with 90k miles..throwing cam timing codes and you can hear the timing chains stupid noisy at idle. This just happened rather abruptly. Not like the engine oil pressure has been slowly going down due to wear, but like a tensioner seal has finally let go or possibly a guide.
I am thinking about checking the oil pressure before buying the timing components but then realized one truly doesn't know if the low oil pressure is due to blown seal or increased tolerances.
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I have a 2007 F150 Screw lariat and have swapped the factory 20" wheels for a set of18" FX4 wheels. Question is how do i get the light on the dash to go off?? I swapped these tires and wheels 2 weeks ago and never got a light.. now tonight I get a light? I don't know if the 18" have pressure sensors in them or not..Wouldn't I have gotten a light right away?
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