I have a 2005 STX with 107,000 miles on it. When it is cold you have to turn the key on for 5 seconds twice then start it. When it is warm it will start like it always did. When the temperature outside is 60 or above you have to do the key thing about 5 times. I think it is my fuel pump...
View 4 RepliesHow to diagnose what I think is a failing alternator?
Here are the symptoms:
- Hard starting in cold weather
- Battery not at full voltage when truck is parked (usually around 11.5-12 volts. I have been putting a charger on it some nights)
- Lights seem to dim when I've got accessories running, like heater fan, heated seats etc. Lights get brighter with engine RPM, like when pulling away from an intersection.
What's my next step to diagnose this? I did a search, and didn't see anything. My battery is probably still under warranty, so if that's the issue, it should be a free fix. How hard is it to install an alternator in a 2005 with 5.4L engine?
I put in a cold air intake in my 05 5.4l. Now truck will start up then die, the throttle doesnt seem to open up when i step on the gas. everything was working fine before I started on it.
View 4 RepliesI am experiencing issues with starting my '08 R32 when it is cold (winter, CO). Almost all of the time it sputters when starting cold and 25% of the time is stalls out and I have to restart. My local dealer told me it is related to the fuel tank valve recall?????
View 4 RepliesI own 2005 Santa Fe. Vehicle is a 3.5l V6. 90,000 miles. Transmission flushed few months ago. Few weeks ago I notice that transmission jump hard and bucked on cold start then smooth out once the engine warm up. Is it normal? if not what could be a problem.
View 3 RepliesI am having a problem with my sliding rear glass where when I attempt to open the glass, the pull cable barely moves. When I push the close button it will eventually pull the close cable tight and close the window. (The length of time it takes to pull the cable tight in the closed direction depends on how long I had attempted to open the window, i.e. when I'm pushing the open button it looks like all I'm doing is making slack in the cable and not really pulling it open at all)
I have done some research on how to access the motor behind the seat, but have not gotten a chance to investigate further.
I have a 2005 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder, and I have been trying to figure out a hard cold start issue that also causes whitish grayish smoke to come out of the tailpipe when I first start the car.
When I first start the car after it has sitting at least 8-10+ hours the engine will crank over and being starting up but its almost as if it hesitates and then fully starts up. Once it does start the smoke will come out of the tailpipe for about 10 - 30 seconds and smells somewhat of burning fuel. I think the problem may be a leaking fuel injector. When I use my car during the day this issue doesn't happen at all after first startup
Coolant level and color : Normal no changes
Oil Color and level : Normal no changes
Tune Up: Done about 2 months ago
I uploaded a video to youtube of the car starting up here [URL] ....
I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
View 5 RepliesWhistle thru intake. I have a f150 2005 with a 5.4 and it likes to whistle when cold weather when I press the gas it goes away until it idles down?
View 11 RepliesMy 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 F150 5.4 FX4 and I had these two codes thrown over the past week/few days...P0325 and P1000 (pictures below of descriptions...I have an edge programmer and have been running it on the highest setting for a while now but always run premium fuel. I got these codes and reset them and they came right back. I then reset the cpu to the factory programming and they still keep coming back. I still have premium in it and it seems like when you hammer it that it falls flat on its face! It runs good and pretty smooth but seems like it has no power when throttle is pushed hard. It seems like it has a small vibration at about 3,000 RPM but only for a few seconds and then smooths right back out again. The truck has 88,000 miles and I just put new Motorcraft plugs in it about 6,000 miles ago. Not sure what I should do or what is the next step.
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I posted awhile back about a loss of power and hard shifting in the transmission. I thought I had it fixed, well I kind of did...... Replaced the IWE that had locked in solid. I replaced both, added some transmission fluid, new front brakes, and a new belt back in July/August. Truck was fine for a few thousand......
Well it's back. Now I have a noticeable whine in the cab. I haven't pin pointed it yet. It is only audible when the truck is running from 35-50 mph. It is not RPM dependent, it doesn't change when I take it in or out of four wheel drive. It isn't there when the truck isn't moving.
The truck has 61,000 on it. I bought it with 35,000 on it because I wanted a vehicle that wouldn't nickel and dime me. Something I could climb in and not worry about making home.
Well here I am less than 30,000 miles later and I have had issues with the fuel controller under the bed, brake calipers sticking, IWE's, new shocks, broken front coil spring, recall for the airbag, tie rods, ball joints, power window regulator, and now what appears to be a transmission.
I come from a long line of "FORD" guys, but I am seriously considering something else. This 04-08 model has to be one of the worst pickups ever built by ford.
Are the newer ones any better? Other than routine maintenance a vehicle shouldn't have to be touched before 61,000.
I have a 2005 F-150 5.4L 2WD 90K miles. I started getting a misfire and hard jerk when going uphill. No codes for a few days but misfire got a little worse and more jerking at full throttle acceleration or level throttle up a hill got codes p0300 and p0171. I replaced the fuel filter cleaned MAF and changed plugs Motorcraft plugs (none of them broke during replacement). Miss got worse. Missing at idle and no power 3K rmp to get to 40. Only code pulled was p0171. Replaced upstream O2 sensors and COPs. Will barely idle now. Dies when put in gear. Full throttle barely moves forward a few feet just sputters. Checked vacuum lines cannot find anything. Only code I get is P0171. Fuel injectors next? Or shop?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 4.6L that's hard to start when it's relatively cold outside.
Normally, when it's warm outside, I can barely bump the starter, and it starts right up. But when it's cold outside, it usually takes 3 or 4 2-3 seconds of cranking before it starts. Even then, it has a really rough "about to die" idle, until about 10-15 seconds, and then it idles without a problem. Once it's running, it runs great.
It has 79k miles on it, and all I've done to it is put in a throttle body spacer, and a K&N filter. I've read a few posts from people that have had similar issues, that had K&N filters, but their problems have been more consistent. Mine only seems to happen when it's first started.
As far as I know, the plugs have never been changed, as with the COPs. I've heard about a vacuum line running to the throttle body may be the culprit, but haven't been able to find any more details on that, like where the line runs to, possible replacement part number for it, etc.
I have an 06 F-150 4x4 with the 5.4L Flex Fuel V-8. The truck has 133,000 miles on it. This morning, the truck was very hard to start. It took me 4-5 times of cranking the engine for 30 seconds or more before it started. Once it starts, it idles fine. Out on the road, the engine cuts out and the truck bucks pretty hard. The truck doesn't die, and the issue is intermittent. I changed the fuel filter less that 10,000 miles ago. The Check Engine Light has NOT come on. What could my problem be?
View 7 RepliesI'm new to owning a diesel. I have a. 2004 f250 6.0. I gotta smog the truck this weekend but the check engine light is on. Fault is P0674. I've notice during the day it starts up fine but at nights, lately it's been low 40 outside it won't start. Where to start at.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 F150 XLT 5.4 that doesn't always start. I've been having this problem for over a year now.
Sometimes it will start, but sometimes it won't. Seems about every other, or perhaps every 3 days it just will not start. Then, if I wait a few hours, it'll start.
I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, mass air flow sensor, fuel pump driver module, starter and the battery. None of this has seemed to effect it.
Lately I've found out that if I put the truck in neutral, then while cranking I go to park (going through reverse) it will start. Sometimes not on the first try, but after a few attempts it will start.
It should also be noted that when it does start, often it'll make some loud noise RIGHT before it starts up. Sounds kind of like the starter grinding. If it doesn't make the grind noise, the other thing it may do is all the lights and everything turn off for an instant (half a second) then come back on and start.
I'm really lost as to what to do. I've been thinking that it may be the transmission range sensor, but I really don't know. I don't want to keep spending money replacing random parts, in hopes of fixing it. I'm on the 3rd starter, because of all the cranking I have to do when it doesn't start.
My 07 F-150 5.4 has a rough idle during a cold start for about 1 minute. It happens mostly when the weather is chilly or cold. Also after the first start it doesn't do it the rest of the day. Of coarse they can't find anything wrong and tell me there are no updates for anything like that.
View 3 RepliesSo I finally went and put the exhaust I had been wanting on my truck. Pretty simple set-up. I had the factory muffler cut off and a flowmaster 40 series on it previously. I liked the sound under load and at cold start but normal driving I could not tell a difference from a factory muffler. So I had the flowmaster removed. I still have 4 cats so it's not crazy but it is loud. The only time I have cackle is on initial start-up not even at WOT which was a pleasant surprise. I just like the look of a single exhaust but still want some sound. I have been gone awhile as I needed a little break from starting and also being drawn in to arguments.
View 7 Replies5.4. So I have a 2004 F-150 that just passed 80,000 miles and a month ago it started making a very loud noise on startup, but only cold startup, meaning if I haven't used the truck in about three hours. Now I went on youtube to research and found a video of a truck making the exact same noise! Here is the link:
2004 f150 cold start knocking noise - YouTube ....
Need to verify what this is??? Some people are saying cam phasers and some are saying I'll need a brand new engine!
I have an '05 FX4 with 5.4 and 55,000 miles. I've noticed that once in awhile when starting the truck after it has sat for at least a day I get a type of growling noise that lasts for a second or two. It usually happens shortly after the engine starts up and gets running, but it has also happened after it has run for a minute or two and then makes the noise when I give it some gas to take off. From inside the cab the sound seems like it is coming from the driverside firewall area, but on the rare occasion that I'm able to start the truck and jump out before it makes the sound it sounds like it is coming from underneath the center of the truck. It doesn't make the sound every time on a cold start and never makes it on subsequent starts. I drive truck during the week only drive my Ford on weekends and sometimes it goes longer without being started, but I don't know if this has anything to do with it.
I thought it was a shield vibrating or something but have also heard that the VCT parts can make a rattling sound on a cold start also and this has me a little worried. This sound seems more like a fast growl than a rattle, but it happens so fast it's over before I can really register what it is. One time it made the sound twice, once after startup and again after it had idled a minute or two, thats when it seemed like it came from under the center of the truck. The engine has had a slight cam phaser knock since new, but it is so quiet that it can only be heard if you're inside a building or next to a wall and roll the window down.
Also, I change the oil every 2500-3000miles and only use Motorcraft 5w20 and a 820S filter, and generally baby the truck. What this could be. The truck runs great all the time, I just get this noise occasionally after cold start.