Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Loud Noise Like A Loose Ball Bearing Spinning
Jan 27, 2011
Whenever I am driving 60 km/h or more a loud noise seems to come into play. The noise sounds like a really loose ball bearing spinning. Then sounds like a turbine slowing down when going 30 or under. The only issue is the noise does not go away until the truck shifts down into 1st gear. And when doing so the truck jerks enough for everyone in the vechile to feel it. This problem only seems to come when it's rainy or slushy outside and even then does not happen very often. I have had the truck to ford and another mech. Nobody can seem to pinpoint the problem. 2006 f150 5.4l ....
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I have an 06 F150 2wd that needs both lower ball joints. I've done searches and everyone keeps talking about a big freaking hammer. Can't you just use a ball joint press kit to remove and reinstall these? If no I'm gonna find someone to put them in for me because Im scared of breaking the aluminum control arm. There was also some talk of using some sorta glue on the joints as well.
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Car died while driving home. Now it wont start. The tow truck driver that towed me home swears that the timing belt is out. Car makes spinning noise when I try to start it. I plugged in my code reader and got P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input. Not sure where to go from here. Do I replace the sensor or take it in to have the timing belt done? 109,000 miles.
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Everything might be a slight exaggeration. But fuse 14 covers Backup lamp and day time running lights relay coil, A/C Pressure Switch, Redundant Speed Control, Heated PCV (5.4L), Trailer Tow back-up lamps, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror.
This is a 2006. 4.6L V8, SCREW. I don't have reverse park aid. When the fuse blows there is a loud screeching noise from under the hood. Can't identify it because the fuse wont go while I am sitting idling in the driveway. The parking break i9ndicator comes on, the ABS indicator comes on, Cruise control goes away and the A/C quits cooling but still blows. I assume EC Mirror means Electronic Compass Mirror. So I need to figure out where the short is.
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We've had a lot of rain here in pa lately and i hit a few big puddles the other day and now i have a growl slash wine in the front of my motor,now i narrowed it down to something driven by the bely because I removed the belt and no noise all pulleys feel good and smooth except the ac compressor if you spin it by hand it has a rough/dry feeling and sound to it but the noise doesn't change with the ac on or off its just constant grinding/whine. Replace the ac compressor pulley bearing that what I am thinking it is and don't really want to change out the whole compressor..
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This monday i found this horrible noise coming from the engine... My first thought was a pulley bearing, yet none of them at the front appeared to be the cause, and standing in front of the bay it sounded like it came from the engine itself (which would be really bad news). Well, i parked the truck until today and i went to check if i could find the cause. I used a mech's stethoscope at the engine and found nothing strange, turned the engine off and touched the pulleys to feel if any was getting hotter than the others... no dice...
Then took the belt off and tried every pulley by hand, all worked ok, yet when i turned the Alternator's it flashed a little spark every now and then (that was just a hint, i wasn't sure). To finally rule out the engine, i turned it on without the belt (that would leave all the pulleys out of the equation). It worked fine and made no strange noises. I cleaned several pulleys and placed the belt back, and turned the engine on once again, this time keeping my attention at the alternator, enough said, it made several spark noises and suddenly, i saw a cap flying of its back. It turned out to be the bearing at the back of the alternator, it was destroyed and losing shrapnel all over, take a look:
Now, need to know what is the part number of the measures of this bearing. (I'll take what's left of the bearing to the store, but i like to be sure of what I'm looking for).
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I purchased a 2006 Lariat crew cab 4x4 back in early feb... since then, I've been on the Interstates a little more than usual ( traveling back home.. dad had a surgery 3 hours away) . . . anyway, the truck gets kinda loose feeling when coming onto bridges and off of them, almost like the back end is swaying and the tires are leaving the ground in the front.. my steering wheel gets loose for a split sec. When I bought the truck I wrote this off as bad tires.. it had some over inflated BFG stock looking tires and where too small.
now, I have new wheels and new tires one size up on the tire. While the ride is great off any bumps.. the second I hit a bump it gets squirmy... I had a guy look at the shocks, he said the seemed ok.. could it be possible to have the wrong shocks on ?
My 2004 crew 4x4 did not do this.. so I know its not a characteristic of the truck. Tired of feeling like I am driving on ice... which is how I lost my 04. My first guess was the Shocks... I bought a level kit for my 04 and never got to put it on... so, it may work out to replace them while I am at it.
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Ok, so my 2007 F150 Lariat super crew cab has been at the dealership for a week now with them claiming that a part is on back order. How hard is it for them to get in a right front axle?? Granted, it was in there for other stuff too (which they can not give me a straight answer on if they fixed or not cause they are claiming the technician hasn't done the write up on it yet). My main concern is that they are screwing me around or that something happened to my truck. I am planning on stopping by there on Wed. morning after I get out of work.
Are these trucks known for bad front axles or was there some kind of a big recall on them?
Other things it went in for was the radio having the CD's cycle through when you first start up the truck, but does not happen like that all the time. Black plastic driver side front door hinge is cracked exposing the metal reinforcing part. Whirring/bearing type noise when you first start up the truck when it is cold and sits overnight (which they claim they can't hear yet waited to bring the truck inside and check it out at 3PM when they had the truck overnight from the night before when I dropped it off.) and the front driveshaft not fully disengaging when the truck is in 2wd. Almost seems like the vacuum locking hubs are still engaged.
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2008 5.4L triton. When I'm in the snow or mud and engage the 4 wheel drive I hit the gas and I can hear what I think it is the hub spinning but it will not turn the wheel. Hoping it is not my transfer case...
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noise in my front end. I know there is a lot of stuff going on there so let me try. Noise is more like a groan not a squeak, tick, not an engine noise or a brake noise. Applying the brakes or turning the wheels does not make a noise. Best way to describe it to me it is like a bad bearing type of noise. The noise is starting to get louder.
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 with the 3.55 LS rear end. I just changed the diff fluid to Lucas 75W140 synthetic and added 4 oz of Motorcraft friction modifier. The gears looked great when I had the cover off. But now my truck only seems to want to spin one tire. It was on a ice covered road so it shouldn't be that one tire was catching more traction than the other. Could a simple oil change cause the limited slip to stop working?
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I have a 2007 f-150 4X4 with bad upper ball joints, should I replace the lowers also or just the uppers and how do I check lowers?
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My question is what could cause a high idle?I have a 95 Chevy pickup 4x4 with a 5.7... Recently the lower radiator hose fell came off the radiator, dumping the liquids all over the street. The motor shut down, and every time we went to start it there would be a loud whining/spinning noise. We thought that the motor seized, so we pulled the plugs, turned the motor by the crank bolt.Turned out that the starter went bad, the spindle and bendex werent catching on the flywheel.
After examining the flywheel teeth, and gapping the plugs to the recommended manufacture gap, (they werent when we pulled them), we got a new starter installed. It started right up! But it ran at a high idle, around 1500-2000 RPM. I did not have a chance to really let it warm up (it was cold and raining). Now there is a gray flexhose that is running from the air filter housing down to the exhaust manifold. If i remember correctly, it was not seated very well when I took it off. Could it be causing too much of a vacuum?
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I am almost 16 and I have a 2006 F150 FX4 with a 5.4 6 1/2 bed and i need a good sounding exahust. I dont wanna break the bank and i need to pass PA state inspection.
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For the past few months I've been hearing a loud fan-like buzzing noise coming from the passenger side of the front of the car. I don't know that much about cars, but it almost sounds like the engine is racing or something is spinning too fast. It has gotten increasingly worse, and seems especially loud at high speeds on the highway.
It is not the heating/cooling fan - the noise is present when the heating/cooling system is turned off.
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Well, got a 97 f150 4x4, and I have the abs/brake light on, and a really loud noise that sounds suspiciously like a bad bearing. So I go to my mechanic, who said it was the front passenger bearing going bad, and replaced it. Got the truck back, and its still noisy, abs light still on. The noise gets way quieter when I turn hard right. What the cause is? Or what I could check?
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I have 2009 F-450 6.4L Diesel with 41K miles and just started to have a noise that can be heard up in the CAB of the truck while driving or idling. It sounds like a dry ball bearing that would go bad in home computer AC power supply or CPU cooling fan. The sound starts when the engine is at full operating temperature and most noticeable and the loudest if you are standing in front of the engine at idle outside.
Checked all fluids and they are normal. Turning the steering wheel doesn't affect the sound either or turning off the AC. Check engine light has not come on. The only thing I have noticed is that clutch fan stays on a very long time after starting cold and takes about a mile or two before it disengages. The truck is only used to tow a 36' 5th wheel and sits the majority of the time.
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I have an 01 Ranger 4x4 that recently started to make a loud speed dependent noise from the drivers side front wheel, a quick jab to the right on the steering wheel and it stops, straiten out and it comes back...since I know my shocks are worn and have some cupping on the front tires my first thought was tire noise so I moved the back tire which is evenly worn to the front and no change, next I removed the tire and checked everything visually.
All seems ok, the brake does not seem to be dragging and there is no evidence of a cv problem, everything seems tight, so I'm guessing the problem is a bad wheel bearing? If I grab the tire at 12 and 6 there seems to be excessive movement from top to bottom, there should be none right? If memory serves any movement is indicative of bad wheel bearings? I guess I'm looking for some vindication before getting a new hub?
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On a 2ZR-FE 1.8L what keeps the cam bearing shells from spinning? This would be the shells closest to the cam chain, sprockets etc.
Are there the little tabs that are bent out at the end of the shell like a rod bearing, or are they locked into position as the cam cap is tightened?
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On my 2004 s-cab the steering is starting go 'notchy'?
I have considered, tight upper or lower ball joints, pump, rack or even a sticking rear diff, but not carried out any checks yet except oil level
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My ball bearing on the tensioner seized and broke the belt. Does that happen all the time?? My car is a CP and right now it's only 36k miles..
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