Golf V R32 :: Ball Bearing On Tensioner Seized And Broke The Belt


Dec 12, 2011

My ball bearing on the tensioner seized and broke the belt. Does that happen all the time?? My car is a CP and right now it's only 36k miles..

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After finally identifying a bad serpentine belt tensioner for being the the culprit for my engine noises, my mechanic said that the 'thru-bolt' is siezed. Since the replacement job was at my budget limit he said he doesnt want to get into it in fear that he has to brake the bolt and drill it out (requiring 2-3x more labor cost according to him).

If this is the case, and the 'thru-bolt' is seized, is this in any way something I can make a an effort to tackle? I have a jack and jack stands, and plenty of time.

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I was putting on the H& R sports springs tonight and was onto the last corner, front passenger when one of the 3 ball joint bolts broke off. It was so rusted that the nut didn't want to come loose. I used too much force and out came the piece. Do I just go buy a new ball joint at the local VW dealer and swap it out. I didn't touch the other two and the car is still driveable. It's the middle one, exactly as shown in this photo from the DIY.

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So, I somehow ended up with a hole in my oil pan. Long story short: water pump seized which shredded the serpentine belt. Had the car towed to the dealer. They found the hole in the oil pan. Pretty sure it wasn't there prior to the tow, and unfortunately I didn't watch the driver unload the car when we got there. Both tow company and dealer have just shrugged their shoulders on it.

I let the dealer replace the water pump because it's not something I was interested in tackling with everything that needs to be moved out of the way to get to it. However, I towed the car home myself (flatbed carrier from U-haul) to do the oil pan. I just got

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I have a 2003 Santa Fe 2.4. Couple days ago my idler tensioner pulley or whatever its called seized up and took the belt out with it. I got a pulley that resembles it from Autozone mind you that it was the only parts store that had one in stock even Hyundai didnt have the part. The only difference is the hole size for the bolt is about 1/4 inch bigger then the stock pulley. Is there any chance I can get a spacer and make up for the difference?

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 - Serpentine Belt - How To Route The Belt Around Tensioner Pulley

2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.

I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.

It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.

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Civic - Honda :: 2009 - Serpentine Tensioner Bolt Broke Off

We drove our 2009 Honda to and back from Nova Scotia from NY. The Serpentine tensioner bolt broke off after we got home. Anyway, we pulled into Jiffy Lube and they both said that that should not have happened. The mechanic said the same and gave us the old tensioner back to take to Honda saying it was a defect in the car. The car has 45,000 miles on it. My question is what department to approach at Honda if a part is defective? I am thinking it may have been better to take it to Honda in the first place.

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Accent MC (2006-11) :: Brake Pedal Won't Depress - Seized Clutch Bearing

2007 Accent pedal won't depress. Bearing making noise for a few months. Is tranny snout toast or is it fixable?

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 - A/C Clutch Seized - Replace Bearing And Pulley?

i replaced my a/c compressor on my 2006 f-250 2 yrs ago but had not refilled with r134..only the pag oil. Now i decide to refill seeing my wife uses the truck and compressor would not engage, i was able to bypass it by removing relay and jumping it with a paperclip. Compressor started up but seems to have seized on pully. the pulley seems fine and still turning freely. I can no longer turn it manually when truck is stopped and i could before i jumped it. could the clutch only be replaced or does the bearing and pulley have to be replaced

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Whenever I am driving 60 km/h or more a loud noise seems to come into play. The noise sounds like a really loose ball bearing spinning. Then sounds like a turbine slowing down when going 30 or under. The only issue is the noise does not go away until the truck shifts down into 1st gear. And when doing so the truck jerks enough for everyone in the vechile to feel it. This problem only seems to come when it's rainy or slushy outside and even then does not happen very often. I have had the truck to ford and another mech. Nobody can seem to pinpoint the problem. 2006 f150 5.4l ....

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I replaced the belt tensioner. Today, after much prodding, I noticed the tensioner is rattling which is weird considering is only a year and some months old. The question is what can cause the tensioner to rattle? The belt is fine, is not cracked and it sits fine on the pulleys.

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I needed to tighten the belt tensioner up, but couldn't find a DIY. So reaching out to see if this is normal? If not how do I tighten it up?

Here lately the car has been idling funny, kinda sounds like it has a cam or something, once I accelerate it smooths out fine. I thought it was a loose clamp on my intake to the turbo but once I got that clamped down correctly it still was idling this way.

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I attached a short video. [URL] ....

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How to replace the belt tensioner. It's not putting out enough tension when the engine is cold. So, the belt makes chirping noise for couple of minutes idling when cold with AC on.

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He believes that the issue is with the tensioner since I had recently had replaced the serpentine belt.

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