I have a 07 f150 harley edition.. Here's my issue. When I decelerate going down hill. Feels like my rear end wobbles. It will do it if I decelerate and turn the overdrive off or if I put it in 2nd when decelerating and when I accelerate again it goes away..
View 3 RepliesI put on a leveling kit a few months ago and pretty much replaced a lot of worn out parts in the front fenders. With the exception of lower control arms, shocks and springs. Just about everything else that moved was replaced I think.
Well now it seems like every time I hit a decent bump in the road my truck jumps to the side. It's very noticeable if I'm going around a corner and hit a bump. The steering wheel is thrown from side to side so I'm fairly certain that the issue is up front but don't really know where to start looking.
The truck may have done this before the leveling kit but it's very exaggerated now. It's so bad at times that my husband won't drive it.
I'm a new owner to my first 4x4 vehicle. My vehicle is a 2007 f150 xlt. Today while I was driving into work I had my vehicle in 4wd high. As I was going down hill I let off the gas and started braking. When all of a sudden my 4wd drive switched into neutral. I am wondering what could cause this to happen and whether it's an issue or not? It is snowing which was my purpose for being in 4wd.
View 9 Replies2004 F150 FX4 5.4L. I drove from Vancouver to Edmonton and back this week and I started to get some issues. If I'm in overdrive at highway speeds, from about 90km/h to 120km/h give or take, which would be around 1600-2100rpm, and then I try to accelerate, sometimes on flats, rarely on downhills, but always on uphills, the truck will begin to jerk fore and aft. It feels like it's something through the driveline, either the driveshaft or the differential, but I really can't say for certain as I'm stuck in the driver's seat while this is happening.
If the truck downshifts or if I take it out of overdrive, i.e. getting the revs up high, the problem is no more. Other than the issue I'm having, it operates perfectly so this is very odd. I know that overdrive isn't a hill climbing gear, but normally an engine in the wrong gear will simply lug along until it's downshifted. The entire truck jerking shouldn't happen.
On my way to Edmonton, I noticed that this would cause one single, minor jerk. This is my way of describing it, but it was like the driveshaft had spun freely and then promptly re-engaged with the differential gear, causing a clunk. I doubt that's actually what happened, but I'm just trying to explain the sensation. It kind of feels like trailer jerking.
On the way back to Vancouver, it was a lot worse. Like I said, the whole truck would be jerking about once per second but there was one time that I found the sweet spot and it began jerking rapidly, twice per second. I threw it out of overdrive to stop this but the vibration caused the check engine light to flash a few times but it went away and didn't stay on.
What I might be up against? Been doing a little research. Seems as though this is common and it's supposedly the spark plugs, but those only have 50,000km on them.
how would I go about lowering my truck in the rear a few inches cheaply? There isnt much out there that I can find.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
On my 07' I bought it home mid AUG. It has been getting much worse to a point there is a rear driveline vibration at all speeds above 40 and up to 70. I used to change intensity whether you are on or off the gas, and would almost vanish if in neutral. However now it is all the time.
I cannot feel any play on the u-joints, the yoke has a little play in the xfer case but is is normal like on most other trucks I have owned, and the pinion flange is nice and tight. Could this be **tight** ujoints or the driveshaft itself? It looks rusty, but there are no dents on it.
I have an 07 King Ranch. I need to remove the rubber step off the rear bumper to paint it. Due to a typical Ford paint job it is rusting already. Can I just pull up on it ? If so should I wait for a warm day to prevent breaking the clips?
View 3 RepliesYesterday was driving my 2008 Prius (75K) down a paved road from a ski-hill (no snow/rain, perfect weather and completely dry road). Not hard driving, 20-30 mph some curves, very smooth road with no potholes, etc. Battery turned all green, its fan initiated and I also rolled back window during this 75 degF day (not unusual to have battery fan turn on in this condition, it's occured plenty of time before). Wasn't braking hard either. Out of know where, I first noticed upon slightly accelerating that I had no acceleration, like the hybrid had disengaged from the ICE, and then check engine, (!), red triangle, VSC light!! At this point, couldn't tell if car was on or off, the wheels disappeared from the main display, although the ICE/electric motors continued to show although there was a red warning top left corner.
It did scare the hell out of me going downhill with curves wondering if I was really still in control of the car. I pulled over as soon as I could maybe 1/2 mile downhill. I then shut car off, waiting maybe 1 minute, turned back on. The VSC cleared I believe, but all other lights continued on. Next, I only knew to drive it to the Toyota dealership. It was odd, as the Prius was now in some sort of weird, pseudo on-state. It had virtually no acceleration, maybe 40 mph after 1 mile and that was it. Drove it maybe 8 miles like this thru town in this pseudo on-state. Pulled into dealership. They pulled codes and found P0A1D-HYBRID POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE INFO 1 AND P3000-BATTERY CONTROL SYSTEM. They stated vehicle was found with problem with hybrid control ECU. They cleared the codes and test drove with no issue repeated. That's it. If it comes back I'm told I will need to replace hybrid control ECU.
Ive had this 2009 F250 4x4 Super Crew, 6.4 for 2 years now. Bought it the way it sits with a 6" ProComp lift and 37" Yokohama Open Countrys. Recently, once I get up to 40-45 mph, the rear end starts vibrating violently until I speed up or slow down. There isn't any clanking noise and it's silent. I look in the mirrors to see if it's the tires but they appear to be rotating smoothly. It's never done this before. It's like a tire is out of balance but it shakes much harder than that should be at that speed. It rides smooth as can be at any other speed all the way up to 80 mph which is the faster than i drive. What this could be? I've done searches but can only find info on the front end death wobble which is not the case here.
View 4 RepliesI recently had my rear axle seals replaced due to leaking. Does the rear diff fluid get replaced on that repair since the rear diff cover comes off? Trying to figure out when my next interval for changing rear diff fluid should be.
View 1 RepliesSo I was driving on the FWY cruising around 70MPH when all of the sudden my car started to decelerate for no reason without me releasing the gas pedal. I am guessing its my fuel filter or fuel pump.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford Fusion SE 2.3L 4 cylinder. It has approximately 94,000 miles on it. I purchased new Sumitomo tires with a 100,000 mile warranty in February of this year. They were balanced and aligned at the time of install. So far they have been very smooth and quiet with great grip. About 2 months ago I started hearing a noise that sounds like uneven tire wear, a sort of rhythmic rubbing or wobble sound that increases in frequency as the speed increases. It is most noticeable at speeds between 30 and 50mph. I rotate the tires every other other change (at least twice a year) and had the alignment done again in late October. I am hoping that there is nothing wrong with my virtually brand new tires. Is there anything else it could likely be?
View 2 RepliesSo... related to my last post, here's yet another issue that's come out of my 60K mile check-up (of my 2005 Passat Wagon GLX). The technicians noticed a "wobble" from the rear of the vehicle at 15-25 mph (that, mind you, I have never noticed). Their inspection of the tires noted that the left rear tire's inner tread was "showing steel." After performing some suspension work, they did an alignment check. They adjusted the front axle (since they can do that), which is in alignment now. The rear axle, however, is out of whack. The left individual toe is at +0.50 degrees (shown in red on my diagnostic) and the right individual toe is at +0.10 degrees (shown in green), for a "total toe" of +0.60 degrees.
View 2 RepliesI've noticed that my Santa Fe will start to wobble around (and only) around 80-100 km.
I noticed that this started when I switched over to my Winter tires...didn't notice this last year or the year before when I had them on.
Tires are in excellent condition...no uneven wear...properly inflated.
I took them to my winter tire dealer to have them balanced, but still notice that they still wobble at that speed.
What could be causing this? Could this possibly be a non-tire issue? Perhaps a stabilizer issue?
I am looking to swap 2007 vin 5 to 2008 vin V 5.4. Just wondering what would need to be changer? Would the ECM need to be replaced? I believe the vin V is flex fuel.
View 3 RepliesI had new tyres put on my 2002 Accent 1.5 CDX a few weeks ago, they are 175/70 R 13 and i have Genuine Hyundai Alloy wheels. Over the past few days, Ive noticed a bad wobble that i can feel through the steering wheel, but seems to come from the rear of the car, although it could come from the front, as the car seems to wander around on the road, but going along at 50 mph and taking my hand off the wheel for a second or two it doesn't pull either way, you can just see the steering wheel visible moving from left to right and back again!!!!!
I changed the back wheels to the front and vice versa, and the problem went away, for 24 hours and came back again!!!! This wobble is getting worse, I've had the wheels balanced, rims seem ok, suspension checked, etc and all fine. The only thing I am not sure about is worn track rod ends, and I am not sure what to look for this wobble is at its worse between 30 and 55 mph, but it can be felt on any road (from starting off) and at any speed.
So my sister bought a 2007 Camry last year since she was impressed with the reliability of the 3rd gen Camrys we've been driving for the last decade. It's been a good car for the last six months but she's on the verge of selling it because of sudden transmission issues on top of the oil consumption problems that seem to be commonplace with this generation of 2.4L.
She says that her tach sometimes shoots up to about 3200 RPM when she taps the brakes going downhill and occasionally it feels like she's hitting pools of water on the highway. She also described hesitation followed by an extremely hard shift when braking more suddenly, such as avoiding people turning in front of her.
I have a 2008 2.7 all wheel drive santa fe automaic. It has 110 Kilometers on it. It is stop and go traffic everywhere, terrible roads, and lots of hills. I have actually only owned it for about 14k kilometers.
It has been fine since I bought it a year ago up until about 2 months ago. I was coming to a stop and as I got right to the end of my stop, the car jerked and made a clunk sound. No smell. I could tell it was when the tranny was coming down from 2nd to 1st. I tried to replicate it but got nothing. Ignored it but then it happened again. It seemed more prevalent when I was moving from 1st to second to stop over and over.
As I began to pay attention more and more, it happens much more when going up a hill or down a hill and almost always happens when I am about to make a u-turn and the wheel is turned all the way to the left. When it happens, it isn't always a big jerk. It never happens at speed, the other shifts are fine, and if I shift from reverse to drive too fast and accelerate, I get a clunk as well.
I have a weird problem with my alignment. I have had this car about a year and in April put my summer wheels on. I have a staggered set of rohana's 20x9 up front and 20x10.5 in the back. When I took the factory tires off I could see inner tire wear. I figured just needed new tires cause I don't feel any pulling or known alignment issues.
After a few months I started getting a little wobble in my wheel and more road noise on the summer wheels. When I finally got it looked at just the passenger rear tire had inner wear. I took it to get aligned and the alignment shop said this thing is really good it was all in the green. They did do a little adjustment but nothing major. Showed me the print out and everything. My car is not lowered at all. I've attached pictures......
During an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.