Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 4wd Doesn't Work - Riding Roughly - Popping Sound Over Bump?
Aug 21, 2014
Ok my 2004 F150 has been messing up lately. The 4wd doesn't work. Pretty sure that's the actuators however, now it is riding EXTREMELY rough! Every time I turn the wheel to turn into a parking lot and then proceed to enter the lot something in the front end pops! Loudly! It sounds like popping out a dent like its loud! What it is. I just know 4wd doesn't work, there is a loud popping noise when I hit pot holes or turns. I CANT even go off road now because of the popping noise and also it is extremely extremely rough. Any clues on what's up?
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My 2005 Ford F-150 Lariat 4x4 5.4l V8. the climate control system will not let me lower the fan speed or let me change the airflow direction. and my heated seats will not work as well.. i looked at the fuse it was good.. and un-plugged the battery for 3 minutes.
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I have a 2005 FX4 with a 5.4L. I have noticed in the past 3 months that when I mash the go pedal hard the engine misses and there is a popping sound. My gas mileage has gone down 2-3 MPG.
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT super crew cab. I bought this used with around 99,000 miles on it. There is a plastic / rubber two piece cowl panel between the hood and the windshield. There are little rubber type material tabs on the outer edge between the fender and the cowl panel. They are there on my truck but they have started to come off. I have noticed that when I get up to roughly 45MPH and over I get a flapping wind noise on the drivers side of the vehicle only. I thought it was that little rubber flap because it came off completely and the noise got a little worse. I super glued it back on but the noise is still the same.
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I have an 08 F350 regular cab 4X4 that the cargo light doesn't work, Is this powered from the interior light like the old ones? or does it get its power from the GEM module? If it comes from the GEM is it possible to feed it like the old ones from the interior dome light without killing something? I really miss having a cargo light.
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I have rough idle problem after changing spark plugs, fuel filter and battery. There was no rough idle problem before this work was done. What could be wrong. Once the speed is above 20 mph it seem to run fine but at stops it vibrates and seem like it may stall!
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I have a 2012 toyota camry with the JBL system. i replaced one of my factory door woofers with a aftermarket one. i cranked the volume up to the loudest, and then suddenly all the sounds going to all my speakers went dead.
I tried checking all the fuses that i saw said "Audio system" in both my engine bay and my driver instrument. Nothing was burnt out. even tried disconnecting the battery.
When i try to turn up or turn down the volume, no numbers show up. (showing which volume setting its at) its just blank.
Even tried the steering wheel volume control. I really don't know what else to check.
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I have a 2008 Accent two door hatchback. The speedometer started jumping and then just quit along with the odometer. The odometer displays the last mileage but doesn't increase. I replaced the speedometer sensor in the side of the transmission and found two of the pins on the connector socket going to that sensor were burnt. I have now replaced the three connector, cable and it still doesn't work. The Hyundai part number for the HMC Extension cable is 43893-23011. So, I have a new cable and new sensor. What next?
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Just had new full struts installed as well as rear shocks on 04 F150, supercrew. There is a noise that only happens when you hit a bump. I initially thought it was the strut boot but having those replaced, and the noise still there means it was not that. What I should look at sounds like something is loose on the front end. Had an alignment done and they said all was tight.
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I have an 04 sport trac adrenalin. Just bought it a week ago. I have a couple questions.
#1. Do the adrenalin models have a limited slip diff?
#2. My speedometer works whenever it wants to, is this just a cluster issue?
#3. All of the window switches on the other doors don't work.
My rear window switch works fine. The driver door controls all the windows just fine. Each separate door switch doesn't work. But say you're rolling the passenger door window down from the driver door, and you hit the passenger door switch, it will still interrupt it and stop rolling the window down.
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I have a 2007 F150 It will stall out when I go over a speed bump. It has happened several times and getting worse. No codes stored. It will also skip between 40 and 50 mph.
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2006 fx4 f150 5.4 flex 52,000 miles ... Just got home from a 800 mile round trip vacation, seems I've developed a miss or a tranny problem. The truck runs/idles fine, shifts fine, everything is as normal. Except maybe 12 times while under a load, like climbing a hill, the truck would "bump" that's the only way I can describe it. I only noticed it in Drive/Overdrive. I hoped I had water in the gas so I added gas treatment at 2 fill ups, still seems to do it occasionally. Where to start? I'm going to get a fuel filter today, the one that's on it only has about 12k on it....
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As I said when I take off from a dead stop I can feel a clunk or a bump that feels like it is coming from the rear wheels. I can feel it more than I can hear it, although I can hear it a little. It is difficult to describe this. It is only for a second and kinda feels like the rear wheels have no traction then it bumps and takes off. If I ease into the accelerator I can avoid it, but I don't have to hit it real hard at all to get it to do it. I am sure it is not u-joints as I put a brand new drive shaft from driveshaft specialist on in the spring.
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I put on a leveling kit a few months ago and pretty much replaced a lot of worn out parts in the front fenders. With the exception of lower control arms, shocks and springs. Just about everything else that moved was replaced I think.
Well now it seems like every time I hit a decent bump in the road my truck jumps to the side. It's very noticeable if I'm going around a corner and hit a bump. The steering wheel is thrown from side to side so I'm fairly certain that the issue is up front but don't really know where to start looking.
The truck may have done this before the leveling kit but it's very exaggerated now. It's so bad at times that my husband won't drive it.
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So I got a 2008 model, only owner. It has 107K miles. I've noticed something the last couple months now. When I park the car in the garage after coming home from work it has a full charge, about 3 bars below top, it's at the max of the blue color.
When I start the car in the morning it still displays the same level. But after driving down the road about 3 blocks it seems to update slowly and drops the level, sometimes down to the brown, about 3 bars high. The car will run rough for a while almost every morning now since it's not using the hybrid battery to smooth things out.
Ever since owning the car I've noticed it can run rough sometimes normally, like when you're at a train crossing and the battery drops to 2 or 3 and the engine powers on to charge it up a bit. When I drive away you hear the engine a lot louder than usual as it seems to be running on engine only until the hybrid battery gets sufficiently charged and you feel a lack of power as you accelerate.
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Started having problems with one of the key fobs for my '09 Prius about a year ago. Battery change, perked up a bit, but then started malfunctioning. At first, wouldn't unlock car doors, then wouldn't start car. Will do so if insert into the fob receptacle, but not remotely.
I'm trying again to revive it, since it only lasted 4-5 months before. Won't unlock car doors again, etc. Unlock button does not appear to be stuck - you can feel it "clicking" when you press it, so it doesn't appear to be the stuck button problem.
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All I did was cut off the straight section of tailpipe and install a 2.5" inlet, 4" outlet exhaust tip. It sounds a bit deeper at idle and a little louder when I rev it, but when I let off the gas it pops pretty loud.
I remember hearing popping on decel on videos of trucks where aftermarket exhaust/mufflers were installed, but not just from a new tip.
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I've read alot of info about the 4WD system on the F150's, and I'm having trouble diagnosing what might be going on with mine.
When I put my truck in 4HI (or 4LO), I get a popping sound that seems to come from the front middle/front drivers side when going at speeds around 20-25 and over. I don't experience any loss in traction (that I can tell) or power, but the popping is very loud and noticeable (passengers can hear it clearly).
My problem is a little different than most, as their issues with popping seem to happen when they are not in 4WD, where mine is only when in 4WD. I replaced the IWE solenoid today (wanted to anyway to get the updated casing/shroud) and the problem stayed. I also disconnected the vacuum lines at the solenoid and drove - no noise. I then kicked in 4WD on the switch, and the noise started, which leads me to think it is not vacuum related.
I am kind of lost as to what may be going on. I would think something where teeth broke, etc. would make noise all the time in 4WD, not intermittently or at certain speeds. The noise sounds almost like popcorn popping. I went up the same hill about a dozen times today, and it happened maybe 5-6 times. I don't hear it often (if at all) with speeds below 20 MPH. I can switch in and out of 2WD, 4HI, and 4LO all day with no issues, as well.
The only modifications to the front end have been a 2.5 inch leveling kit, and the only other issues I notice in the front end is a shaking when on the highway, that seems to go away after a while of driving at the same speed. I recently had a front end alignment, and the only thing the tech mentioned was that I will need ball joints in the next 6-8 months (but he said they weren't bad).
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I have a 2008 F250 which has been a awesome truck. Very few issues except for one that no one can seem to fix. Its regarding my brakes and a mysterious reason all of them have to a degree locked up and smoked the pads rotors etc. I now have 80k on the truck and have replaced all brakes once and now the front left have locked up for a second time. The scenario goes like this:
So i'm driving along and if the front brake locks up I can begin to smell it. So I pull over and smoke rolls out along with the overheating popping sound from the effected brake. Rear brakes usually are not found until I stop which i get out and then can smell them. Funny thing is the brakes have locked up when not towing. Also, I have never had more than one happen at a time. So as today all brake pads and rotors have been replaced and now the left front has overheated again. From what I can tell the caliper just doesn't fully release. What could be causing this?
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I replaced my right front axle a week ago because I was getting severe popping/clicking noises. The boot was torn on the axle and I had grease all over the inside of my rim etc...
The popping/clicking sound was gone immediately after replacing the axle. Now starting yesterday, exactly one week after I replaced it I noticed the popping/clicking sound coming back. It was faint at first but started getting louder. Now today it's almost as bad as it was before I replaced the axle. I still have to get underneath and see if I can hear where it's coming from? Think the axle is bad again? It is an after market Axle, ToughOne is the brand I believe.
Just for a quick history. All four wheel bearings were replaced about two years ago. All four ball joints about a year and a half ago. I replaced the outer tie rod ends about two weeks ago.
2004 Ford Explorer, 4X4, 4.0 Flex Fuel
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It's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.
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