A 2004 and up f150. I found one in great shape for 5,000 dollars with 120,000. Drives good but it has a knock I'n the 5.4 engine. It gets quieter when the engine is warm. Should I avoid this truck or will I be okay with purchasing? Only thing holding me back from buying truck is the knock...
View 9 RepliesKnock or tick at 1000 rpm. Truck has 20000 miles on it. Dealer replaced cam phasers. What next?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 fx4 with 75000 km it runs great but when I go on a long ride up hills or tow my trailer it acts up only when I get to my destination. the engine will run really rough and knock loudly seems only when I use reverse or sometimes park (and oil pressure in dash looks good),and if I shut ignition off and restart it no problems till I make engine work hard again.
View 14 RepliesI am having a hard time locating a mechanical knock coming from my truck. This is not an engine knock but rather a clunking noise when I come to a slightly abrupt stop and sometimes when I take off or am steering. I have recently replaced my upper and lower ball joints and all the u-joints as well. My truck has a 6" Fabtech Coil over lift and a 3" body lift. The truck is also rather squeaky when going over speed bumps.
View 8 Replies I have a 04 5.4 w/ a whipple supercharger. truck has 104k miles. Has a misfire in cyl 4 (p0304, p0316) And spark knock.. I've changed the plugs, coil on cyl 4, fuel filter, and today the o2 sensor(pass side upper, bank 2??). I've ran tecron injector cleaner threw it, and always used Chevron 90 octane. (highest in Alaska)
The noise only happens when under load, or accelerating with more then half the throttle. doesn't happen when i slowly get up to speed. What I could do next? About to take it to the dealer to run a full diagnostic test on it.. Also, does not hesitate or bog. drives normal just with that noise
I replaced my knock sensors on 2004 5.4L and now it will not idle without me keeping foot on gas. Idles down to +- 450-500 rpms. If I hold down gas pedla seems to run smooth. What to check to fix this problem?
View 10 RepliesI just bought this truck yesterday. During the test drive and everything it seemed all fine. After all the paperwork and the truck was actually mine. I noticed once it is all warmed up it seems to have a slight knock/tick? and a slight miss to it. I shot a couple videos, one up underneath where it sounds like most of the noise is coming from. Could it be an exhaust leak? Or is it something internal? Like the Cam Phasers, or a rod or something!
Here is a video around the exhaust area.
Here is up underneath the truck.
I am working on a customers 08 F-350 5.4l has 135k on it. came in with a severe rattle/knock, running poorly, and dying at stops. ECM gave up 8 codes relating to the timing... Found the phaser replacement steps here on FTE and followed them and replaced the VCT solenoids since i was in there. Customer reported that he replaced the cam sensors already. Ran great for a day, and the next day when I pulled into the shop it gave me a rattle. Not as violent as before but noticeable. I special ordered the wedge and followed the replacement to a 'T'. I have no performance issues and no codes.
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 2005 F150 King Ranch. I had a 900km drive to get it home but only mad it half way and am now stuck. I was stalling every time I came to a stop and eventually lost oil pressure. This is when I stopped driving and took it in. The shop said it had a knock in the lower end and stopped diagnosing it there. I can now sell it for parts and take a big hit or I can try and patch it myself.
I am assuming based on my symptoms it is a spun rod/main/thrust bearing. The mechanic was not very supportive to narrow it down to anything other than replace the motor.
How many km might I get out of this engine if I pull the motor and replace only the crank and rod/main/thrust bearings. This will not be my daily driver so if I can get another 50000-100000 km off of that, then it will last me at least 5 years.
This is of course assuming that when pull it apart I do not find an other major problems such as bent or broken pistons and rods or scoured cylinder walls. I am not that experienced of a mechanic, so I am not that confident about pulling the heads off and rebuilding the whole thing.
It looks like, I have the problem with my 2009 Prius, but i was wondering : don't you need any purge of the cooling system after this work is done ? Is there any chance that some air might come into the cooling system during the "clamp" session?
View 2 RepliesLexus 3.3L RX-330 Engine Noise - Part 3 - YouTube
I am concerned with an engine noise.
5 months ago we bought a 2005 Lexus RX-330. It had 109k miles on it (now has 113k). There is a faint but noticeable engine tap/ knock/ tick coming from the engine. I think it has the 3.3l, 3gr-fe engine.
I have listed some observations:
The sound does not occur on startup, when the car is completely cold.
The sound starts after 5-10 minutes of driving or idling.
The sound diminishes and is almost imperceptible after another 10 minutes of driving.
The sound is only noticeable at idle.
The sound/tap seems to occur about 5 times a second at 600 rpm (idle)
The sound increases frequency with rising of rpm.
At approximately 2k rpm the sound cannot be heard.
If the vehicle is stopped after driving, allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes and then restarted, the sound will be loudest even though the engine is still hot.
The engine is quiet overall with exception of this sound. The fuel injector sound is the next loudest sound.
The sound doesn't seem to have gotten louder in the last 5 months but it may have gotten just slightly louder by my estimation.
I can hear the sound inside the vehicle and outside as well.
No other symptoms are present. I had the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner replaced as maintenance and as a possible solution to this problem right after buying the vehicle.
The mechanic heard the sound but told me he wasn't sure of the cause. He and I agree that it sounds like an internal engine noise. It is not a pulley, idler or exhaust sound. The mechanic told me not to worry about it and it was a normal sound. He also said to start troubleshooting would get expensive. I am still concerned.
I have a knock ! (hoping its just an injector) No engine light, No drivability issues 190k Not there at start up, not there right after a drive. any thoughts?
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I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
View 12 RepliesI too had this problem and tried different gas, gas additives, meticulously inspecting the cooling system to make sure overheating was impossible, found the jumper that allows me to back off timing 2 degrees, checked the computer for error codes, and cleaning the MAF sensor. Nothing really worked.
The solution is to decarbon the engine. It is all described in TSB 01-19-7, dated OCT 01. I did this and END of the problem. Pay attention to the part about not ingesting the PM-3 cleaner too fast to make sure you don't liquid lock your engine. The only important step they forgot was that you will need to replace spark plugs when you're done. You may also want to lay some newspaper under your tailpipe too, as the crud is gonna flow.
The TSB notes that the driver should have "periods of daily operation over 3500RPM to break carbon from cyl heads". They also note that you should NOT use mid-grade or super duper unleaded, as these increase the probability of carbon buildup.
This repair will cost about $30 if you do it yourself; if you can change a flat tire you can do this.
My 2004 powerstroke recently started making a loud knock during the process of starting. Will make the sound warm or cold, however I mostly hear it when the truck is warm as it cranks a little longer and about two seconds into the crank something starts knocking. After the truck starts it runs perfectly fine.
View 6 RepliesI have a Ford Ranger 4wd, 2000 120k. Ran well, great shape, reliable and quiet running. Oil pan leaked and I got tired of going under and used Devcon in attempts to stop leak..reoccurring issue. So I get new 0il pan. Started it up following morning after driving errands and home from shop and saw a cloud of smoke on start up never seen before, cleared away and didn't think about it again. Drive round trip for about 70 miles and while driving at slow speeds back in town, the oil gauge started pinging back and forth, and the knocking started. By the time I got home I do not dare to drive it anywhere as while the oil gauge does not fluctuate anymore the rapping has increased. What could have started this chain of events? Can I expect the garage to replace the engine? Vehicle is worth 4k replacing engine probably 3K..while a beautiful useful truck body sits in yard is it really worth it? Bad draw on the cards?
View 5 RepliesSpecs: 2003 Ranger Edge / 3.0 V6 / 5-speed 4WD / 238,000 miles
Yesterday my truck was in the shop for repair. Intake gasket, Transmission fluid change, all heater hoses, thermostat, serp belt and coolant flush. When I picked it up from the shop, which was after closing, I noticed a knocking on start up. From past experience on a different truck, it sounds like a cam that isn't oiling. After a few minutes the knock goes away. I drove for a few miles, turned off the engine and started it back up and no knock this time. This morning I started it, knock was back but went away after a few minutes. Oil was changed about 1500 miles ago. Running pennzoil 5/20 with a K&N filter. Up until yesterday the engine has been completely quiet. Was wonder if something may have clogged the filter or the drain back valve.
This is a 2000 EX with 146k miles on it bone stock. I have not done any of the regular maintenance on it yet or even gotten to really check this problem out. I am not driving it at this time mainly due to this problem.
The noise is heard the best at the rear of the engine and underneath the truck as the video shows. It seems to slightly change in sound (maybe a tad bit quieter) once I put it in gear (drive and reverse), I have not really heard a change in it after the truck has warmed up either. It does not sound at all really metallic to me..
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The wife drove the Excursion (V10) to work today and it ran normal and didn't have any loud noises coming from under the hood. When she started the engine to return home it immediately started knocking. This is not a ping, but a knock. Not a loud heavy knock, but much louder than a ping. It has a fast frequency, seems too fast to be a rod knocking. The frequency is similar to a valve issue, but the knock seems to be too heavy for lifters. Oil looks good. Just changed out 2 weeks ago. Truck is driven everyday.
View 11 RepliesOK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
View 1 RepliesToday I noticed this burning smell under my hood and a bit of a engine knock on idle... It doesn't knock all the time tho ??
View 7 Replies